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YOUR RESEARCHQuickjack 5000SLX - 2001 Porsche 911
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your question exactly as it is asked, but I have run into similar situations.
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Smaller blocks work, and I have also used actual hockey pucks on a friends car that is even lower than mine.
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The casters can be used here also allowing you to store your motorcycle out of the way in your garage.
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Another option which is great is the motorcycle adapter which I also bought and have used on my 1974 CB750K.
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Suggestion
I had researched all the small low height lifts for my 1 car garage and have decided to just use the Lift Bars and jack stands for space saving reasons/
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Does the Quickjack 5000 SLX work on a 2001 or newer 911. The new 5000SLX frame is 70" long. Is it possible that the frame is to long, and the jack could rub the tires?
I read a thread the other day that said that the 5000 slx would work on all the 996 997 991 986 987 981 cars. The first design 3500 and 5000 would was not long enough to reach the 54 inch jack point spread. I assume the SLX is adjustable? up to 70 inches?
I had researched all the small low height lifts for my 1 car garage and have decided to just use the Lift Bars and jack stands for space saving reasons/
Look at the EZCarLift. Much more stable and better made than the Quickjack. I have had my car on a Quickjack, I would be scared to work under it beyond just swapping tires because it's not very stable.
I 2nd the EZCarLift. I've had mine for about 7 years. It has been used for my past projects to include a VW Vanagon (close to the weight limit), MGB GT, VW Superbeetle (Subaru powered), Crossfire SRT6 and my '99 996. The versatility is great. I bought both sets of width bars and it will work on a variety of cars. Also I got the casters which allow you to lower the car down onto and move it around the garage. Another option which is great is the motorcycle adapter which I also bought and have used on my 1974 CB750K. This option allows you to bring both ramps close together with a ramp and chock in the center to roll the bike onto. The casters can be used here also allowing you to store your motorcycle out of the way in your garage. When not in use, it breaks down into two small sections which need very little space to store. Lastly it can be easily loaded into the back of an suv or pick up by one person should you want to use it elsewhere. EZCarLift is powered by a corded power drill. They recommend at minimum, a 7amp drill.
If there is some interest in this thread, I can try to post some photos. Presently I'm not at my pc.
The lift has no front or rear. You can lift the car with it one way or 180 degrees the other way. There are two cross bars. One end has the gear reduction transmissions on each unit with a driveshaft which ties the two together mounted to that crossbar. Once you set the car up and lift it a bit and are are happy with the lift points, you can then lower the lift and remove the non driveshaft end crossbar.
I've always had excellent customer service. I've always spoken directly with Boytcho Manev the inventor of the lift.
When I bought the motorcycle option for my lift, it was about 6 years after my initial purchase. I was putting it together on a weekend and found some of the mounting holes didn't line up with the ramps. I sent Boytcho an email, expecting to hear back during the week. He called me with in 30 minutes. It turned out, he had made some revisions since my lift was built. Later that week I received the revised parts at zero cost.
Here's an old EZCarLift marketing video, but there are other youtube videos available.
You Tube
I can't
answer
your question exactly as it is asked, but I have run into similar situations.
I believe you are concerned with the lift platform coming into contact with the side skirts.
You can use some sort of spacer between the lift pads and the
cars
lifting points. I have been using used hockey pucks. A friend is a youth league hockey ref and he the used ones to me by the bagful. They are excellent for floor jacks also.
Here are some pics I took today, as I have them in use on my 996 presently. They are also useful if the vehicle is not level and you want the lift to hit all the chassis lift points at the same time.
I always thought I was going to by a shortie maxjax...then I saw the Ezcarlift. Looks perfect for my California 2 car garage! Looks to be far faster to get the car in the air versus the maxjax.
I'm thinking of getting the QuickJack 7000SLX from Costco.
I worry about the clearance to get it under my 996 C4 which has been lowered and has the aerokit skirts.
Has anyone used this with a lowered/skirted 996??
If you are working on flat piece of concrete and feel the quickjax aren't stable you are doing something wrong. I don't like using the taller of the two rubber blocks but if set up under tha jack points it's no more unstable than it would be on 4 jack stands.
Thanks Venom, were you answering my question? (it was an old thread so must be?)
Maybe I didn't ask it correctly....
I'm wondering if I can get the Quickjack under my car in the first place.
Its quite low, and has an aerokit skirt (similar to the burgundy car earlier in the post). I think the Quickjack also needs a little bit of room to get up to speed when it starts the lift too.
The floor to jackpoint height on my car is just a bit over 5" when I measure.
The flat Quickjack height I believe is 3". With the 2" block its about 3.8" and with the 3" block its 4.8".
There are some coolant lines running along the side, so I'd be worried those could get crushed without a 3" block.
Anyone try this?
Mine doesn�t have skirts, but is lowered on B8s and H&Rs. Quickjacks fit under fine. No worries about the lines. If you are on the jack points you clear them easy. Do check on the Quickjack website, they have a measurement guide to
confirm the best fit for your car.
I �think� the 7000 might be too long. Mine are 5000 SLX, recommended by the measurement guide, and work perfect.
You need to measure to the ground to find out. The GT4 has about 5" of clearance so getting the sled and the short rubber block under it is easy. I'd say is you have anything less than 4.5 to 4" you are going to struggle to use them. You also need a little room for them to move up before the pad engages the jack points. If you have 5 inches to the bottom of the skirts you'll be fine. Mine work great.
I like the EZLift. Found three on craigslist, one in the tampa area that looks a great deal. $900
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts...120336487.html
Miami Area, $1100
https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/pts...108716109.html
Tip of FL/AL:
https://mobile.craigslist.org/tls/d/...102737187.html
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5000slx from costco - fits fine with side skirts. May be limited in using the taller blocks (or both together) - haven't tried that yet.
I store them under the car and pull into position when needed.
Got an EZCarlift, couldn't be any happier. My car is lowered so I have to drive it on top of a 2x6 for the lift to clear, but this is no big deal for now. Also EZCar has a drive on option that I may consider. I did order the slightly wider cross bar, so I can use it on wider cars (corvette, etc)
I also made 4 magnetic pucks to lift the car a bit and clear the side skirt.
Because of the cross bars it is undeniably that EXCarlift is more stable, there is no way one side can slide or tip over because it it mechanically attached to the other side. Having said that it is very unlikely that any of this would happen with QuickJack, or just car stands for that matter, do to the weight if the car holding it in place. I will say both of these brands are stable enough to be safe, when used as designed.
This shows how I made them, very simple and no glue. The magnets are pressured into the hole they sit on
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ting-puck.html
I bought a BL-6000XLT and it's too big to slide under the car.
any insight into this problem I'd be interesting in hearing. Calling Quickjack, but I'm afraid I bought it.
I know I am kicking myself. I measured it several times on different days. Technically the 911 jack points are with in the 6000 specs. However, the lift itself is much longer on both sides.
I�ve seen pics of people using them �side ways�. Meaning on lift goes behind the front wheels and the other goes directly infront if the read wheels.
https://www.quickjack.com/why-quickj...s-versatility/
I have the 5000slx and a lowered 996. Smaller blocks work, and I have also used actual hockey pucks on a friends car that is even lower than mine. Does not damage side-skirts as long as you are careful in placing the rubber blocks. Very stable .....
this is is great - i also have a quickjack and 996 and wondered which end of car you place near the hydraulic cable/pump end. Looks like its the front of the car.
anything i should watch out for when trying the QJ for the first time ?
thanks again
appreciate the insight !
i was planning to reuse the thin (quarter inch?) plywood (that was part of packing materials) under the lifts to avoid scraping garage floor.
anyone elsr do that? The manual says for outdoor use to use 3/4 inch, IIRC
I used the thin ply to lay on while working on the car. Went and bought another sheet for other places. We have aggregate for a driveway.
Mine was outside for a week or so while working on the car. Couldn't help it and it did rain a couple of times. When I was packing it up water ran out of tubes on both lifts. Rusty water. My guess is no big deal for a few times in the unit's lifetime. However, if you just left this out in the weather it would be a problem.
I bought a used QuickJack 5000 for a couple hundred dollars off Craigslist.
I ordered the 5000SLX frames a couple of weeks ago.
Now I�ll have two lifts.
When I finally get them I can have the Mustang and the 996 up in the air at the same time.
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