should I buy this?

I've always wanted a 911 and on a hot Sunday evening, beer in hand, I bid on a car at the last minute, mainly thinking I was helping the seller as there's no way it would sell for that cheap. I ended up winning. Seller (bless his heart) will let me out of the deal if I want, so I'm trying to decide. Pros: nice color combo, described well with long ownership and maintenance. Low price. Cons: salvage title (at least in CA) and some odometer/clerical stuff. My Porsche buddies are selling me to steer clear, saying there's a reason it was cheap and no one outbid me. I'm still on the fence. I know the title impacts value, but I don't see any other cars of this caliber and miles for anywhere near this price. Your thoughts? 2001 C2

Go with your gut, pass on this one, they'll always be another.

What was the winning bid? I see "low price" but how low are we talking?

14,500

I'm also curious what "Odometer stuff" means, in my head that could be a major headache trying to get registered. Your Porsche buddies are right that this a cheaper 996 for a reason... Do you have the desire for the car to remain a $15,000 car? I think that is unrealistic. If you're fine with your $15,000 car becoming a $25,000 (+) car then hell yeah man go for it. It reads like you're well aware it's not going to be headache-free. If you feel like you can tolerate the headaches that will come then there's no reason not to pick up a cheap little toy of this caliber.

It's all in the auction details in the link above. At some point, it picked up a salvage title and had an odometer issue (said to be a clerical error, I do know this happens). The appeal for me is the low price, 7+ years of documented ownership and maintenance. But, branded title (at least in CA) will effect the value forever. In my mind, a 996 that has had IMS done, clutch and flywheel and suspension replaced, should be pretty straightforward to run and own (with DIY maintenance where possible). But that's in my mind...

Odometer discrepancy doesn't cause a salvage title. If you're really keen on it, get a good PPI done somewhere. Without knowing what caused the salvage status, I would pass.

If you posted a "winning bid" in a public auction site for the car, you are already legally bound to buy it and can't back out unless you negotiate terms w/the seller to do so which the seller is NOT obligated to accept. You can reneg/refuse to payand the selller can sue you for payment due based on your winning bid but s/he is also obligated to "mitigate" damages by attempting to resell the car and, if the resale price is less than your bid, you will owe the difference.

Seller said he'd cancel if I wanted, he was looking for more money anyway I think. But ebay motors bids are non binding: https://www.ebay.com/help/policies/r...policy?id=4228 Regardless of any of that, I decided with Covid on the increase it was stupid to board a plane with my kid and drive home for 3-4 days across states, so I asked him to cancel. I still think it's a great car for someone.

@danix PM me and I can send you my contact info if you want to consider buying this car. I'm local to TPWS and have a friend who bought his aircooled from the owner. Can definitely inquire with them about the car's history if you want. In honor of Emilio Morricone though, let's take a closer look at this car. The GOOD Looks to be well kept if service records check out Arctic Silver is a pretty color Carbon e-brake and shift **** are worth some money on their own TPWS is a well known and well respected shop in Austin and the owner has a bit of a crusty reputation for doing things right or telling you to find another shop to do the work. I would trust their work if their hands have truly been on this car regularly. The BAD In case anyone had any misconceptions, this is NOT a 40AE car...those would be 2004 MY Arctic Silver (92U) is NOT (as shown in the eBay ad) the 40AE paint color...that would be GT Silver (M7Z) Third radiator upfront says one of a couple things...automatic trans...increased cooling maybe for some track work...or front end damage and replaced with facelift bumper while you're in there. The curtains don't match the drapes as some would say...headlights are 996.2, but instrument console is 996.1. The Turbo front bumper and the 911 emblem on the engine cover feels like someone was trying to pull this off as a 40AE Three-spoke steering wheel would have been an option on 2001 as it didn't become standard until 996.2. I don't see that in owner's list of Option Codes. Was the wheel swapped? Why? How old are the pics? Car is showing 2018 and 2015 registration stickers. Has this been off the road this long? Are these pics "borrowed"? AutoCheck report shows registrations in 2019 & 2020. Nobody was driving this for two years with a 2018 registration sticker. The UGLY Wow!! That price...$14.5K!! If the car is for real that's a steal! Lots of things that would make me put my running shoes on with this one, but hey...there's always the needle in the haystack...right?

Looks like you already made your choice, @danix, but as someone who just went through the same thing: Winner of auction backed out, so it was left to me (2nd place bidder). I had the chance to back out of a 2000 C4 Millenium Edition - high mileage instead of salvage title. The main thing i would have done would be to ask the seller if an independent mechanic could do a PPI on it before agreeing. I had the opportunity to do so, i just didn't realize. I only got 400 miles on mine before as @Dr_Strangelove put it, I had to be ok with my "$15,000 car becoming a $25,000 (+) car". At least then I would have been prepped for what wasn't apparent when the car was delivered. My current take on it: These are a freaking joy to drive... sure I'll be underwater if I put some $$ into it - but there's more to life than the balance sheets

Ain't that the truth. Good quote.

I would have called TWPS and asked about the car. If they blessed it, I'd take a shot at $14.5k. I bet the only reason why the seller is allowing you to back out is because he thinks he can get more for it. I think you could part it out and get close to 14.5.

I always had a rule when it came to buying cars. If I'm in doubt, I walk away. You should walk.

Why does it have a salvage title? An accident that "totaled" the car, or flooding? I'd consider a car with a salvage title if its the former reason, but not the second. Updates and modifications happen for mainly two reasons: a guy likes fiddling with his car, or he's trying to hide something. Again, I don't necessarily think its disqualifying to have a different front bumper or steering wheel, but it should affect price if you want to buy an "original" car. The shop that did maintenance is your best bet. Don't listen to their opinion, listen to what they've had to do to this car. I'd say walk away if you were in doubt, but this thing is cheap.

Seller cancelled my bid as requested, yeah, he can probably get more money. I did email TPWS on Sunday and asked them if they could do an inspection for me before I drove it back to CA. They replied saying they were busy and asked when I wanted it done. I told them I wasn't sure yet, and also asked for their opinion of the car/records, emailed and called but never got a reply. Woke up this morning reading about more and more covid stuff, so I was glad I didn't risk the trip, but man was my 14 year old disappointed when I told him we weren't getting it. @Subourbonite thanks for the detailed analysis, that's awesome. The reason for the salvage and the odometer issues are far in the past, clearly impacting value but also making it attainable. In the end, I'll look for a better documented car closer to home, and definitely get one of you to check it out and also have a PPI done

BTW, you guys rock. I upgraded my membership and I'll stick around

Consider this: The earlier in the car's life it was totaled the bigger and more expensive the damage was and this is not a good thing. It's good that it was hopefully resolved years ago but that's about it.

I have never heard of someone helping a seller out by bidding 14,500. I learned something new today. On another note, that car with a good detail will get sold for sure.

I probably would have paid the $14,500 and had it shipped to me.

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my son and I said the same thing. drive the wheels off it!

It's funny how polarizing the car is, depending on who you are. I grew up with a very strong value ethos, so the idea of something great at a lower value, as much of a unicorn as it is, has great appeal. Yes, I liked the auction description, told myself that it would go for well over 15k, so bid to help it along. I've bid on cars on BaT knowing they would go for way more, but if for some reason I got it for that low price, hey bonus. I told the seller that covid aside, if I can get a PPI and shipping is reasonable, I may still consider it. But realistically I should find a car closer to home, there are plenty around here (SF).

Seller never replied to my offer for a PPI and has relisted the car for a much higher price. I'm glad I didn't pursue this one.

Here is the safest way to look at this. Can you afford to take 20k(ish) and turn it into 5k (roller) and not care financially? Or can you take 20k and afford another 20'ish if the 20year old car that you decided to purchase has any of the numerous problems it's susceptible to? If you answered NO to either of those you should consider a different car maybe an s2000 or find a roller and take on a project. you should also stop injecting yourself in other people's business transactions (auctions) if you can't write the check. The sellers' non-response, was a kind way of him telling you to F off for wasting his time. You are an adult male (I think), conduct yourself accordingly.

No one in their right mind knowing goes into a transaction looking to lose 15-20k. Whether I can afford to is a different question. I have no interest in an S2000, I have two other project cars and a daily driver. In any car purchase there is risk. Smart buyers mitigate the risk as much as possible. I didn't "inject myself" into anything other than the spur of the moment bid. Being unable to write a check was never the issue. It was only because a kind forum member offered to do a PPI for me, and I realized that flying/driving might cost as much as shipping it, was I reconsidering it, but the seller opted to relist.

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Agreed but with this car, you have to be able to eat it...might not happen but could it's an old car and the cost of entry is now at an all-time low, buying it is the easy part. You won the auction and did not follow through with it, not because of of a failed PPI but because you admittedly failed to factor in the incidentals... but I digress.

A dealership "passed the 911 around" for 4 years until someone wrecked it as a loaner, sounds like. I'd love to see the over rev data on this baby...