31 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2000 c2 will not start?
Leading reported evidence
Check compression and there was none
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Leading evidence: 'Check compression and there was none' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check compression and there was none' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
The next step is probably checking the fuel pressure.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Checked fuses c1 to c4?
Can you hear the fuel pump running for a second or so when you turn the key to the last position before crank and stay there?
Any recent work on the engine or battery disconnected/ran low?
Ok, the fuel pump is running and the tach does move a little when cranking but not a 1/4 inch . All fuses are good. I removed a coil and checked to see if it's firing and it is. Anything else?
Can you do an e-gas recalibration? Turn the key to the last position before crank and leave it there for 60 seconds and with your foot off the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF and wait 10 seconds. Then it's done.
Also visual check the intake air tube to the throttle body and the oil filler tube and see if there is any gross air leak.
Any CEL or error codes?
It calibrates the throttle plate. Usually only needed if the throttle body has been disconnected from its power.
Since you have sparks, your crank position sensor is good. So it's either fuel or air. The next step is probably checking the fuel pressure.
You got sparks and that requires both the crank position and camshaft position sensors detecting valid positions and signals. That means your ims is ok.
Long shot but you may want to try disconnect the MAF and crank.
It's got to be fuel if your getting a spark, could be a blocked fuel filter , there's one underneath in the fuel line in between the tank and engine bay if it's old ?? Also have you done any recent work in the engine bay?there's a vacuum line from the intake manifold which runs to a diaphragm on the fuel rail , if it doesn't get vacuum fuel pressure won't get past it to the rail, could it be off or maybe one of the rubber connections has failed ??
Sounds like you have no fire in the hole. Two common denominators for no spark, CPS and the engine ground. Check both of those. You did say the tach needle was bouncing when trying to start it up? Check all the fuses for the ignition/DME/ECU. And Relays 1 and 7
haven't tried turning the crank by hand. I only checked one cylinder. Don't know what number it was but it was the one on passenger side closest to trans.
Going to start dropping the engine out tomorrow. It may take a few days because I can't work on it every day. After checking and not having compression one cylinder means it must be internal I'm sure.
I'll try and keep posting updates. Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
You can remove the green cam plugs on the cylinder heads and rotate the crank by hand to see if the cams are turning. Maybe the IMS gear sprocket is slipping.
Another test is put the car in gear and then rotate the crank. Hopefully you can't rotate it...otherwise broken crank.
I'm about ready to drop the motor tomorrow. got everything done but last few bolts. I drained the oil and the magnetic drain plug was clean as a pin. That's a good sign, right? I don't really feel any compression when I put a ratchet on the crank and turn it. ?
