20 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNew 996.2... puked out its coolant
Leading reported evidence
Use brass connector and zip strap instead
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I bought the stock part for $11, but coulda shoulda used a brass connector and zip strap instead.
Leading evidence: 'Use brass connector and zip strap instead' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace alternator' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When mine broke (and eventually they all do) I used an idea I first saw in a post from Imo000.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
As a quick patch, I used a union originally meant for a fuel line (made out of metal).
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Suggestion
Usually when replacing oil fill tube, removing air cleaner assembly, or replacing alternator.
Replace oil fill tube, removing air cleaner assembly, or
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Usually when replacing oil fill tube, removing air cleaner assembly, or replacing alternator.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T105141Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I'm a long-time car, guy who just purchased his first Porsche. It's a 2002 911 C2, manual transmission and otherwise pretty basic (IMS done, RMS done, 80,000 miles). So far, it's a blast to drive... except for that pesky check engine light. A few codes later I decided to replace the oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 2). After completing the oxygen sensor, my buddy and I notice that a hose bracket has failed. So we get a zip tie and start positioning the tie to keep the hose out of the nearby pulley. A second later, the plastic union splits in two and we are both bathed in coolant. Yuck! After both staring at each other for a while, we relieve the pressure, get a bucket and make a parts run. One union later, a couple of clamps, and about 1.5 quarts of coolant and it's back together. I'm sure glad that didn't fail on the road. It must have been right on the verge of letting go.
Does anyone know if this is a common problem, or if I'm just "lucky?"
As a quick patch, I used a union originally meant for a fuel line (made out of metal). Is there any reason why I should get an OEM plastic union - especially as they seem prone to failure?
No, OEM plastic piece gets brittle with age and breaks easily. Almost everyone replaces it with a brass Home Depot fitting and zip ties it to the original bracket. Easy and cheap solution.
There is a very nice aftermarket metal version of the original plastic fitting. Wish I could remember where...?? I think if you search the p/n for the original fitting it may come up as an alternative part.
^^^^
I can't remember either but, I bought one...LOL!!!
OP, search my posts if you are interested in purchasing 'the solution'.
Man, it scared the crap out of me when mine broke after only a couple weeks of ownership! I thought it was going to be something serious and expensive!
Mike
Me too. Home depo brass coupling did the job perfectly. Zip tied back to miss the nearby pulley. There is a similar one to the left of the alternator that I need to do the same when I get a chance.
PN 99610622652. Auto Atlanta has three versions. One is the all aluminum type. I have not checked other suppliers, yet. Update: Warehouse 33 has the aluminum version cheaper!
I'll have to do the other side too. But I think I'll stick to my auto parts store connector (they came in a pack of two already!) and a zip tie. But I do like the looks of that aftermarket connector.
When mine broke (and eventually they all do) I used an idea I first saw in a post from Imo000. Bore out the old one (can't recall - either 5/16" or 3/8") and insert one of the connectors referred to in Bulldawg's post #12. I epoxied the connector in place - maybe unnecessary, it was a good friction fit. While the zip tie will work fine, I was motivated by the closeness to the belt.
This is exactly what happened to me last weekend while I was replacing my oil filler tube.
I bought the stock part for $11, but coulda shoulda used a brass connector and zip strap instead.
