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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLow oil pressure on rebuild
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect dme ( or battery)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
To help the DME learn that a "new" engine is in the car, disconnected the DME ( or battery) for 30 min then reconnect and do the TB calibrations.
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Suggestion
May need to do a vehicle handover and then turn all the accessories and lights on to increase the load on the alternator, which will force the DME to adjust the idle speed.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect dme ( or battery)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust idle speed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
These are literally the first parts installed during assembly.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I recently replaced the throttle body with new part, and changed engine oil with BR40.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I recently replaced the throttle body with new part, and changed engine oil with BR40.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
May need to do a vehicle handover and then turn all the accessories and lights on to increase the load on the alternator, which will force the DME to adjust the idle speed.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Adjust idle speed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
May need to do a vehicle handover and then turn all the accessories and lights on to increase the load on the alternator, which will force the DME to adjust the idle speed.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
My experiences were similar to those of the initial posting...96K miles, #6 cylinder "holed", fully rebuilt engine installed...checking account emptied.
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Suggestion
I'm sure a lot of Pro techs do this to keep from HAVING to reset all the adaptions of the DME, plus radio codes, reset power window stops, reset sunroof stops, Tip trans adaptions ect.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T205155Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a 2000 996 with 107K miles. Full rebuild with oversized LNE cylinders and pistons, F6I pinned IMS and IMS Solution, rebuilt heads, new main bearings, coated rod bearings, etc. done by local experienced Indy. Running BR30 oil.
The problem: Oil pressure is 5 bar at 3-4K rpm and 3-4 bar at idle when cold. I picked up car with the fresh engine on a hot day�94-degrees outside� water temp around 200F, oil pressure at 3-4K rpm is 4 bar but
it dropped to less than 1 bar at idle and engine died.
Several times. Would not stay lit unless maintained above idle. Engine builder said it showed no fault codes. Two days later, 75F day, idle o.p. with hot engine was about 0.8 bar and idle is smooth. So, engine builder says it�s normal function, let the ECU relearn, etc. Is the issue running a 30 weight oil or is it more likely due to improper build such as main bearing clearances.
Flat Six or LNE recommend 30 wt oil for break in, so low op is normal function. Engine builder indicates could be too-low idle, not a low pressure issue, that causes stall. This is e-throttle, so would need new throttle body or ? Comments?
Turn the key on but not start the engine while keeping your feet off the pedals. Wait about 60 seconds and you should hear the e-throttle re-calibrate itself.
We recommend BR40 for break-in. Many years ago, there was no 40 wt available, so we had to use a 30 wt, but that hasn't been the case for a very long time.
May need to do a vehicle handover and then turn all the accessories and lights on to increase the load on the alternator, which will force the DME to adjust the idle speed.
The throttle re-learn as instructed by another poster is a good idea.
My experiences were similar to those of the initial posting...96K miles, #6 cylinder "holed", fully rebuilt engine installed...checking account emptied.
With the "new" engine, oil pressure is steady 2-3 bars once fully warmed and cruising at 50-60 mph....and absolutely no oil leaks (really) !!
Anything less than 2-3 bars on a recently rebuilt and fully warmed engine would be deeply suspect to me.
relinuca
My engine idles at 675, but bumps to 800 or 850 with the AC button depressed. And if the engine builder wants 30-weight, you might have to listen. But then switch to 40 when you can.
Its possible the rebuilt engine just has slightly larger tolerances, resulting is a bit less pressure.
That would suck soooo bad..
I had a friend leave the oil pump out on a engine once,,, in a C5 corvette,,
Not sure how he managed ,, but he didn't try and put the distributor in till the engine was in the car..
So there was no pump to stick it in and the engine had to come back out to install it..
We paid a really good pin striper to paint a script "What Oil Pump" on his rear bumper. LOL (Race car... )
His wife thought it was hilarious...
Update....changed to 40wt. oil and replaced and calibrated throttle body. Upon major braking effort at 200deg.Fwater temp to avoid idiot insSUV, engine stalls with oil pressure less than 1 bar (all dash lights on, etc.). Similar experience stopping at traffic light. So, low o.p. when braking forces stall. What would this indicate?
Your trying to diagnose two separate "symptoms" from the wrong end on a forum.
First look at oil pressure, when hot at idle, what is the idle speed and is the oil pressure above 1 bar? If so it's ok, then look for stalling issues.
For stalling issues on a newly rebuilt engine with new cylinders and pistons, there will be increased drag/friction on the engine than was before. Re-calibrating the TB does not reset ALL the adaptive functions of the DME. To help the DME learn that a "new" engine is in the car, disconnected the DME ( or battery) for 30 min then reconnect and do the TB calibrations. This will clear all the old data the engine has learned such as deceleration programs ect.
IF the Battery or DME was not disconnected during he engine removal. I normally remove the positive cable at the engine and just slip a rubber sleeve over it, or grab my tape roll and insulate it. I'm sure a lot of Pro techs do this to keep from HAVING to reset all the adaptions of the DME, plus radio codes, reset power window stops, reset sunroof stops, Tip trans adaptions ect.
Is the throttle body clean and not sticking from carbon build up? Since this is an '00, it has throttle by wire and the idle is controlled by the servo motor for the throttle valve and not by an independent idle speed motor like it does on throttle bodies that have a conventional throttle cable. If the throttle plate sticks, it can cause the idle not to recover on time and stall the engine.
Typically, 10 psi per 1000 rpm is recommended. Break-in oils tend to not handle high temps and will thin out. That's one of the reasons we advise customers not to run their engines on track with break-in oil and to keep the oil temps below 210F.
In a perfect world, I'd like to see oil temps between 215 and 225F, but it's very hard to control temperatures that precisely, especially with track use. It's possible with a large enough oil to water heat exchanger, CSF radiators, and 2 to 2.5 quarts more oil volume to get peak temps down into the 240 degree range on both Spec Cayman and GTB1/3 DFI cars with 3.4-3.8 engines.
Latest update: Agreed, there may be more than one issue going on, don’t know if it’s an oil pressure issue per se. During rebuild, battery was disconnected and kept up with a trickle-charger, assume DME would have reset? I recently replaced the throttle body with new part, and changed engine oil with BR40. Oil pressure at 200F a little above 1 bar at idle, 5 bar at cold idle, and otherwise 1 bar per 1000 rpm, so that seems okay. However, yesterday I had to panic brake to avoid an accident and engine stalled, with water temp. at 210F, instrument panel lit up with all lights on; when I tested it again with hard braking, the oil pressure dropped below 1 bar during braking with engine stalling. Engine is 350 miles Post rebuild.
Have u checked the oil level? I can make my oil pressure light turn on when the level is low on the stick and i break hard. May not be an answer to the stalling issue but might explain a drop in oil pressure on the gauge???
OK, just a wrap-up. After about 400 miles, everything seems okay. ECU needed to learn? Don�t really know. Now just waiting for that 2,000 mile break in period to end! Thanks to all who opined!
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