broke the oil filler tube, Update, JOB COMPLETED 9TH

hi guys, was putting a little bit of oil into my car this morning and broke the oil filler tube by accident, must be old and dry... i heard there is new oil filler tube replacement, anyone know more about it? any part number and price? also, how easy it is to change it? any DIY? thanks a lot sebastien,

This breaks/cracks a lot - mine has been replaced at least twice already. I would imagine this is an easy DIY.

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happy to hear that it brakes, i wasnt proud of myself ive looked a little bit in the engine compartment seems i need to remove my kn airbox, alternator and belt... a DIY would be nice..

Do a search. looks like you have to remove the airbox and alternator. http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...And%20997.aspx

How did you break it? Just by the force of twisting the cap open? Next time I'll be more careful opening it... very good to know.

the tube is attached to a *clamp* and i have to remove it to fill the oil, when i pulled it out, it just broke in my hands... hehe not lucky ive did a search but no DIY with pictures and complete instructions...

Oh this is a pain in the *** with the engine in. Yes you have to remove all that stuff, airbox, alternator, plus the T/B and the T-plenum behind it. Then you will be able to access the TWO bolts that holds it down to the top of the block. One on the block and the other on the P/S pump/pulley cage. From the WSM: You'll need a new o-ring (block side), a new cap, and the filler neck. 99610715061 tube 99970734840 oring (use dilectric grease on it) 99610703552 new cap BTW, look what literally just "fell off" when I dropped my engine a while back. She must have known I had a new one prepped for her.

Jeeze, what a pain in the a** to replace! I'll be more careful with mine. At least the parts are cheap. You can get the OEM filler neck for $34.

damnit, looks like a big weekend job hehe thanks for all the info, is there any proper way to remove the belts, never done it before..

Serpentine belt? Look here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ost__p__203289

They break, it happens but man it sucks to do.

No more unclamping mine,yikes

You can tape it up tight with good duct tape and still drive the car. Mine broke on a Saturday morning at the track and I raced with it taped up all weekend....

started the job for a little 10minutes today, kn airbox is out and serpentine belt is out, i found myself a DIY on how to remove the alternator and tb, just want to confirm that i need to remove both to get to the filler tube,, right?

You can try to get a socket in there, but I'm not sure if you'll be able to without removing the throttle body and perhaps plenum behind it. Both of those are really simple so I'm not sure it's worth struggling to complete it without following the workshop manual (reference my post above). Those items are just a few bolts, electrical connections, and hose clamps... removing the alternator is way more a PITA than removing the T/B and plenum behind it. At the very least you would need a mirror and very small hands. So I think the WSM is pretty accurate when it says to remove the alternator, T/B and plenum behind it. At that point any person should have "reasonably" good access to the two bolts (albeit might still require a mirror, flashlight, and small hands).

Try it with just the alternator first. I have read that some folks were able to get it that way. You can always remove the TB if not.

thanks for all the info guys, i will get back to you today or tomorrow when i continu to work on the car ps: pissing me off as i have a new set of wheels coming and i wanted to try them this weekend hehe

Seb, New Wheels....do say? Provide a picture ASAP. Seems to be a lot of new wheels going around lately.

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Yep, took mine off this way. Checked if there was a leak, but it was ok.

You might have a difficult time removing the alternator without first disconnecting the wires in the back of the unit. In order to do so you may need to remove the throttle body and/or plenum behind it. Removing the throttle body is a 5-10 minute task, at most. And unless you have a one piece intake plenum, removing the plenum behind the throttle body is another 5-10 minutes of work. Also it may be difficult to detect cracks in the filler tube without a smoke machine. Since it's such an inexpensive part, if you're already in there - might as well replace it.

saturday 9th, i can say that the job is done and i'm proud of my patience haha the job is pretty straight forward, i found a DIY and followed the instructions, first timer for the serpentine. alternator and TB major pita #1: align the alternator, took like 30mins, the DIY was saying to bolt the right bolt, wrong! i tried like that and wasted my time, bolt the left bolt first!! major pita#2: put back the plenum, i ripped all my fingers, took 30mins also and lot of bad bad words! new parts and broken one: 006-2.jpg some stuff removed 012.jpg everything removed 011.jpg everything back in 013-1.jpg

Satisfaction.......good work.

Good job,

Nice going. Thanks for the pics and advice. Did you have a chance to mount your new wheels as well?

Nice work. Told you the generator was a pain in the *** compared with the other stuff! In order to avoid knuckle busting on the intake distributor plenum, if you move each rubber sleeve as far to the left and right as you can - then with gloves on pull it out at an angle it usually is not as tough.

Nice. I had mine done when my Power steering pump went...talk about pain in the ****...whoever made that housing on the pump..ugh... where's your "fresh air" tube for you K&N intake?

Thx guys, i always like to do maintenance and modding on the car. Sometime its hard, but well worth the effort.

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Hehe, no prob, Not yet, i have to paint them gtsrs orange and mount new tires

I completed my replacement today ... My alternator was a pain to removed. As I tap on it to turn it clockwise for removal, I accidentally hit into the AOS (air-oil separator) and broke the connector ... spilling and draining my coolant. I was a not a happy camper. For those who wants to undertake this project ... watch out for that. Here is what it is ... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...olant-problem/ Once I removed the alternator, the rest was straight forward. The 2 bolts holding the oil filler tube are visible and I was able to remove them without removing the throttle body. I called the local Toronto dealer for a replacement AOS and the part is $6 and the 4 litre coolant is $42. I told the dealer to set them aside and I will have my wife pick them up on her way back from work. I've decided to change the engine oil as well. I'll tackle the spark plug replacement this weekend. All in all, the project took me about 3 hours.

Mine broke tonight I was pulling off the airbox to replace the belt. Guess it would be a good time to do the starter too.

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The startet?? Is there enough room to fish it out?

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Haha. I did just the opposite. I replaced the starter last weekend. Last thing I needed to do was snap the filler tube into the airbox and it broke in half. Now I have to take it all apart again. If it's any comfort, the starter isn't nearly the pain in the *** people make it out to be.

We should make a checklist of "stuff" to do while in there for anyone approaching 80,000+ miles: Remove all the stuff in the way...check Replace starter...check Replace AOS...check Replace Oil Filler Tube...check Replace serpentine belt...check Replace water pump...check Replace thermostat...check Replace air filter....check Change oil....check Refill fluids...check Fire and have fun....check!

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yes when you take the drivers side plenum off

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Oh that sucks YES exactly. Im 1/2 done. Starter is in now starting to put back together... 2.5 hrs in

Last week I replaced my alternator and all the pulleys, so I had easy access to the filler tube, but it seemed in good condition so I did not do it. This morning with the temp at about 6F degrees I went to add some oil and the tube cracked off. Damn! A local dealer has one so time to go back in, not much fun when it is only supposed to be 25F today.

Im missing something? You have an 04 GT3 but the engine pic isnt???? WTF? Guess this car is long gone?

That really sucks Doug. Supposed to be a high of 15F here today, was -1F this am.

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I believe he upgraded to the GT3 recently, so you are right KrazyK,, that was in his 996.Good catch

55F next Tuesday, decided to use the duct tape fix until then.

You know what happened to me. Be careful get the inside bolt out before you pull the filler tube and it drops in to the engine. This was the original thread that had me add the filler tube to the PM list when I did the AOS, WP, etc, even though mine was fine. I did not want to have to worry about it at a later date. The new design is different from the original, and it appears they deleted the location where the old ones typically snapped.

I still need to get mine replaced. Right now have some duct tape on it that is working fine. Mine broke where the oil filler tube clamps in so not a big deal for me. I think the dealer wants something like $500 to replace it............DOH!!

Just broke my filler next while changing out the air filter. I just found a small chunk of hose (actually the gas fill hose from my 71 911) and pressed both ends in there. Was a tight fit... so hopefully it will stay put till I have time to do the job right (although I see from this thread its a PITA to do...!)

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Thanks for this thread. I was pretty disappointed in myself when the oil filler snapped off at the same spot while doing the routine DIY air filter clean. It's comforting to know I'm not as spastic as I had thought. It's also a relief to drive normally with duct tape until parts arrive. New oil caps are black, so if you have an older yellow one, perhaps a pre-emptive replacement item on next belt/alternator service call.

So mine cracked after moving the airbox and figured to get it done before the vacuum leak ruined something else. After searching for the replacement part, there is a later retrofit from the 997. Part No. 997.107.131.00. I got a new O-ring and Oil cap like everyone else suggested. Not really sure why a new cap is needed but I just followed the herd. All from Pelican Parts. Oil Cap - $14 Oil Filler Tube - $49.50 O Ring - $4.75 Air Filter - $22.50 1. Remove Airbox - Easy 2. Remove serpentine belt - Easy (Need a 24mm socket) 3. Remove the vacuum hose bracket for the Brake Boosters above the Alternator. Easy 3. Remove Alternator 3a. What can I say. Everyone else b!+ched about it and I will too. Now that i've removed it 3x it's cakewalk. On the right bolt (the long one); you remove it, take out the idler pulley, put the bolt back in without the pulley and whack it with a hammer a few times to push the pressed-in nut out a bit. This will give about 2mm slack to wiggle the alternator out. Disconnect the 2 wires behind it and it should pop right out. 4. The cracked Oil filler tube is removed and the new one is replaced. Oil the new O-ring and be patient. When the tube is put in properly, it will sit almost flush with the top of the engine. If it's not flush, then it's not properly seated. It took me about 10 minutes of twisting, turning, and shouting before it seated. Those darned new O-Rings . I see the torque for the bolts as around 7 ft-lbs. I always just finger tightened it by hand and went about a quarter turn more with the ratchet. Yes the block is aluminum so you can easily strip the threads. 5. Of course in my zest to install the alternator, it pushed a vacuum tube in and when I pulled it to align with a connector, I pulled it out completely! This was the Brake Booster hose. After pulling out the plenum tube the disconnected hose was sitting on top of the starter. I reconnected the tube but it slid out easily due to warping from time and heat. I sprayed some loctite adhesive on the male end of the tube and the tube was snug when I reconnected. Reconnected everything and all is working. Been on for 300 miles and nary a problem. Thank you all for your input!

I did a temporary repair job using 1.5 Inch Fernco Rubber Cap and because it was possible it would melt - I converted inside and outside in Aluminum tape rated up to 300 F Fingers crossed it holds up. 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Flexible Cap https://www.homedepot.com/p/100372302

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Nicely done...I use those caps to cover the sprinkler system when the back-flow valve is removed for the winter....