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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHELP! 996 Won't Start, Upgraded Single DIN
Leading reported evidence
Check fuses (all are in good shape and not burnt)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Checked fuses (all are in good shape and not burnt)
Leading evidence: 'Check fuses (all are in good shape and not burnt)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check first' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Tried calling Beachwood Porsche but got put on hold 3 times and disconnected each, so I suppose I'll try to call tomorrow.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've installed HU's for friends, recently an E92 with Immobi but didn't have this issue, so this is frustrating.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It's never had an issue firing up until I swapped the unit, went to crank it, and was immobilized.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
30 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I unplugged everything and plugged the stock unit back in and anti-theft is still not allowing the car to turn over.
This is probably something small, but I can't find much online other than to "cut the brown/blue wire and cap off", but I'm afraid to trust that as a solution.
I wasn't fond of the stock CDR headunit, so I bought an Alpine with a Metra harness kit, matched up all the wires, connected, sound came through, got power to the head unit, everything sounded much better, but it seems like the anti-theft is deterring the car from turning over. What needs to be done to override? Do I really need to cut and cap the brown/blue wire? I unplugged everything and plugged the stock unit back in and anti-theft is still not allowing the car to turn over. Car has full power, radio plays great, windows, door locks, etc all work.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Sounds like you already understand what the brown/blue wire does ... for most aftermarket installations, it's a good idea to cap it. I just doubled it over, slapped a wire nut on it, and zip tied it out of the way.
Any reason NOT to cap the brown/blue wire & see what happens? Either the car starts or you rule this out as the cause of your problem.
I have a basic understanding of wiring, but wasn't sure if this would solve the issue after attempting to turn the car over with the brown/blue wire uncapped.
Really the only reason I didn't do it, was in case that wasn't the solution, and now I'm splicing a wire that didn't need to be cut in the first place. Is there a possibility of not cranking cutting the wire after already trying to turn the car over with it connected? I can do most mechanical repairs, but wiring and electronics my knowledge is pretty basic.
Car started fine to pull it out into the sun, hooked up the harness to the new unit, plugged it in, and now doesn't start. The only thing that's been changed is the radio in the past 15 minutes.
Clutch to the floor, not starting any different than when I drove it earlier. There is power but when you turn to fire it you just get "click" noises as if it's immobilzed by anti theft.
I don't think it's a click due to power loss as I did all the work with the car off. I'll hook the bmw up to it, but it didn't even try to turn over when I left the headlights on the other day, it attempted to turn, but not enough volt to turn.
Check fuses first.
To me sounds like starter died, and you just had crap timing. My Acura did that 3 months ago. Original starter of 14 years finally...pooped itself. I also thought immobilizer, power, fuses; nope, starter was just too weak to turn the flywheel. Try push starting the car for the hell of it. If it starts, you know it is a starter.
Tried so far:
Capping blue/brown
Disconnect battery hoping it reset
Checked fuses (all are in good shape and not burnt)
Re-connecting blue/brown
Re-connecting factory CDR
Jumper cables from BMW to 911
So far none has worked. Tried calling Beachwood Porsche but got put on hold 3 times and disconnected each, so I suppose I'll try to call tomorrow. I've installed HU's for friends, recently an E92 with Immobi but didn't have this issue, so this is frustrating. Nothing was unplugged other than the factory HU, never had an issue with starting, so it has to be something in the wiring.
I did notice there is an Immobilize tab on the inside that touches on the side of the factory HU driver side, but nothing I used to try and actuate it while cranking worked either.
It's a repeated click, sounded like it wanted to crank at first then went into clicking. Grabbed jumpers and hooked up my BMW but didn't do anything. It gets full power just won't turn over. It's never had an issue firing up until I swapped the unit, went to crank it, and was immobilized.
Did you perchance mistake one of the CAN lines for a power line?
While the CAN line can look like a power line it obviously ain't. The unit can work but the connection loses any CAN communication.
I don't believe so. This is the Metra harness that I purchased based on what I found applicable to the 996 (maybe this is the wrong harness connector?), but everything plugged up and the sound came out great no issues.
Amazon
Amazon
The only new issue is it doesn't want to respond to being cranked for no reason.
I'd like to try, but I just moved states very recently and don't know anyone here yet.
At this point I'm going to take tomorrow off work and call a few stereo and local indie shops (God forbid P Dealership as a last hope), and probably just get it towed. There's something going on I'm clearly not familiar with, so at this point it makes sense to let someone with experience take a look.
I remember when installing mine that there is a wire on the left side of the housing(inside) that has a wire connected to a tab. The tab has to make contact to the frame of the radio to ground it. I hope this helps.... I think that somehow goes to the security system...
This happened to a buddy of mine, and he popped a fuse after connecting the wrong wires in his stereo install.
These cars go into a protection mode of sorts when there is a clear short. I'd disconnect the stereo and see if the car starts first. Before doing this, make sure that you disconnect the battery for a few minutes before trying to start the car.
Good luck! It's probably something silly.
Yeah I saw something about the security tab on the inside and a white square on the side of the factory CDR where it made contact, so I tried making sure it had enough spring to contact the new HU but didn't work. I'm about to go back outside and mess with it a bit more until the local shop opens.
Doesn't start with stereo disconnected or connected at this point. I did read in the manual that if the car sits in the on position for over two minutes it will immobilize, and the manual said turn the key to '0', but that's all it says and is very vague. I attempted different key cycles and that didn't seem to help either.
Funny update (somewhat):
After getting some sleep last night and letting the beer fade out, woke up and hit the battery with a multimeter. Reading was like that of a depressed child. Replaced the battery and what do you know.
Rookie mistake that should have been checked first. Oh well. GO BACK TO THE BASICS!
Thanks for everyone's input, hope the solution was as climactic as you'd imagined.
Thanks for the update.
After rereading some of your posts the signs a bad battery were clearly there. Don't know why I thought the no start could be due to a CAN bus wiring mixup. Must have had my head up my... well, you know.
I need to hold off on the beers until AFTER the work is done. I think I just got so caught up on the fact it happened right after the HU and completely skipped over the most basic starting point.
