Torque Wrench Recommendations

Anybody who regularly wrenches have a recommendation on a decent lower/mid level cost torque wrench. Looking to add a few useful tools so I can perform some common repairs to the 996 as well as the other cars in the garage. Probably need to add a both a smaller and larger torque wrench. If you have specific brands and models that would be greatly appreciated.

You can borrow them for free from autozone. But outside of that my experience has been only with craftsman torque wrenches. I'd definitely recommend a 'click' style vs the bendy shaft style (I stripped a hole out reinstalling a turbo on my FD with one of those). My first craftsman click wrench broke during the first major project (IMS solution install) the ratchet head started slipping intermittently. Of course they swapped it out quick and easy. The second one I've only used a couple times and it's been great. Keep an eye on the sears website as they're on sale for 30-40% off pretty regularly.

I have gone through several in my years and to date the one I like the best is the TEKTON 24335. It will not torque left handed threads (unless you disassemble and reverse) but how often do you need to. Great quality and even better customer service.

The one I use most is the snapon 5-75ftlb flex head. A few degrees makes a big difference in tight space. It's not cheap but it will last multiple life times. Just keep an eye on ebay for a new one, usually 30% cheaper than buying it directly from snapon. You will also need an inlb and a split beam 250 ftlb for suspension stuff. Those can be precision instrument.

+1 on Tekton. I have a 3/8" and 2 - 1/2" from Amazon and I couldn't be happier with them for the price. I didn't expect to when I bought them, but I use crap out of these things.

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I own 2 Craftsman torque wrenches; a 1/2" drive Digitork unit for most applications, and a 3/8" drive Microtork for lower-torque applications. I can say I MUCH prefer the Digitork. The Digitork has numerical displays in little windows, both ft-lb and N-m, are completely idiot-proof, and don't require batteries. The locking mechanism is also really easy to use and never slips; you pull out the **** on the end of the handle, turn it to set, and then release it and it automatically locks. The Microtork has more of a micrometer-style gauge where you have to add the value on the shaft to the ticks around the rotating grip. It's not so bad in in-lb since the clicks are in increments of in-lb, but for N-m the clicks are of course an uneven increment so it's a pain in the neck to do the math and figure out where you need to be. The locking mechanism is also more finicky since there is a separate locking collar from the rotating handle, and it comes unlocked easily, which lets the handle spin and loses your torque setting. Both do super-repeatable torques, and I've had both of them for >10 years with no issues; the Digitork is just a lot easier to use.

im with dk. I really love the digitorque by craftsman. easy to use, easy to read, and never let me down.

I might have to check out a digitork.

according to your specs ....sears craftsman

Precision Instruments is the gold standard of US made torque wrenches. They make them for snap on (or used to). If you want the best and don't want to pay for a recognizable brand name, buy a precision instruments. You can find them on amazon and through other online retailers for roughly the same price as a typical US non-professional brand (craftsman, etc...).

If you're trolling eBay for a used torque wrench, you might also keep an eye out for a CDI torque wrench. CDI is a Snap-on brand ... not well known, so sometimes they sell pretty cheaply. I have a 1/2" Craftsman digital torque wrench that I use for wheels and a 1/2" CDI that I use for most other purposes.

Probably no one here needs a regularly recurring NIST level calibration and logging, but an occasional recalibration is a good thing. And +1 on the Precision Instruments recommendation.

just so you get a 1/2" and a 3/8" and get at least craftsman - up , you should be fine

Make sure whichever one you purchase for torquing wheel lugs has a set screw or other way of locking the wrench at a specific value. It's really irritating to finish torquing a wheel only to discover that you managed to dial the wrench back 20 lb-ft and you have to start over...

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+1 they do in the jet engine department

Thanks guys, looks like some good suggestions listed here. I see suggestions for 3/8" as well as 1/2". Just wondering why some recommend to purchase both sizes as I see they both appear to be rated similar as in range of ft/lb (i.e 10-250). Calling for 12"-18" snow here in NE so perfect day for tool surfing! Hope to order one (or two) by day's end!

maybe they have changed now days but asking one tool to be accurate 10/250 imho is asking too much besides i like 3/8 drive for the multiple light fasteners and 1/2 drive for heavier [lug nuts] work. i have an old I-beam 1/4 drive one ,3 3/8 drive,3 1/2 drive ,2 torque angle dials and a rod bolt stretch mike . of all of them i keep an old I beam socket read for lug bolts at all times....that is it only job......i am re-miss none have been sent back for true in YEARS . get both 3/8 and 1/2

3/8" can get into tighter space and less awkward to use when you have limited space to swing it (e.g., working under a car on jack stands). Also, agree with extanker's comment on size vs range. For 3/8" the snapon is the best because it's optimized on everything. Size, weight, length, proper range 75ftlb and and accuracy. Those 100ftlb ones are usually too long for the smaller bolts. For suspension and lug bolts you use 1/2" which gives you higher range (most likely you won't need anything over 200ftlb), longer with higher leverage.

Armstrong is another brand to consider. The reason for multiple torque wrenches is that they are the most accurate in ~the middle third of the rated range. I.E. Even if the range goes down to 5 ft lb don't try to torque your water pump bolts to 7 with your 1/2" drive 5 - 250 wrench. You will likely torque them right off or strip the threads in the aluminum block. I have a 1/4" drive, inch pound wrench for low torque, a 3/8" for middle torque, and a 1/2" drive for higher values.

The thing with cheaper torque wrenches is when they work, you get away with it but you never know when they will stop working or become grossly inaccurate. You may then strip or break a bolt...with damage and hassle you never wished to deal with.

Frank, extanker & Ahsai Excellent explanation and thank you, now I understand 100%. Cool, I have a legit excuse to buy multiple tools which is always fun.

Wow 2 pages and not a single mention of HF Flame on

The only HF tool I used on the 996 is the extra long 1/2" ratchet (Pittsburg pro) for turning the crank pulley...with a snapon socket The reason is the snapon socket bites the crank pulley bolt very tight so I can control the TDC position with precision confidently when I timed the engine.

My torque wrench is one of the few things I won't trust to HF. I did have an HF torque wrench a few years back. It literally fell apart while I was torquing wheel lugs on my 986 for an autocross. I have had great luck with HF stuff, but with some tools - like the one you use to ensure your wheels don't fall off - maybe using the cheapest one available isn't always the best choice. When it comes to air tools, welding accessories, etc., HF is hard to beat.

there are two things i will never cheap out on. 1) torque wrench, 2) velvetta

HF torque wrenches have been tested to be just fine in terms of accuracy, comparable to craftsman and the like. I've used them for a while and haven't stripped anything. They ain't snap on but for average diy use, they are just fine....and $10 each.

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Every tool has its best use. HF stuff is perfect to give to your tool-borrowing neighbor. And remember ... if you loan a friend a tool and never see him again, it was probably a good investment. As for Velveeta, all the money on this green earth couldn't make that stuff appetizing.

No need to buy used. No need to buy Snap-on. Don't borrow from Autozone. Buy yourself some decent tools. You're not 16. Tools make or break this hobby. Period. A basic Tekton or HF version will be fine for you.

I'm normally don't stray from the 944 pages. I picked these up last year: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-2-...ench/999960867 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-8-...ench/999960865 The only bad thing with these torque wrenches it records the last highest reading rather then letting you know when torque is reached so it takes a little longer to torque down a bunch of bolts. But it's accurate. Keep away from the HF torque wrench.

Any torque wrench can be accurate or inaccurate regardless of cost

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I read that about 26 times before I realized that "are" was supposed to be "or."

I have 3 Craftsman click style wrenches. Decent beater wrenches. Been using them for about 4 years and only one failed. For more precise work I use a Snap on digital 5-100 ft.lb wrench. Excellent tool but rather pricey at almost $500. https://store.snapon.com/Standard-Mo...e-P644452.aspx

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damn autospeller fixed it

I picked up a Kobalt at Lowes a few weeks ago for $70 for cranking my lug nuts at the track. Better than the Home Depot model and the Autozone model for a few bucks less.

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and you determined it was better how?

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Once I decided I was going to spend ~$100 on a torque wrench used 5 times a year vs. $300-500 on a super cool digital, .0000001% accurate torque wrench used by F1 racing teams, I narrowed my search to tools available within a few miles of my house that I could touch and feel. On the Autozone model, the one they sell was the same one they rent. So I took the rental home and tried it out. The plastic handle and adjustment ***** were split and broken, and the ****/gnurl used to hold on the socket was broken. That led me question the long-term durability of their model for $20 more than the Kobalt. The Home Depot model didn't have the detailed/finite adjustments that the Kobalt had and it had more plastic on it than the Kobalt which seemed to be a problem with the Autozone model....plus it was $15 more. All that led me to determine the Kobalt was a better product for the money for the things that were important to me. And guess what, I haven't stripped a lug or been passed by one of my tires at a track event since I bought it so it must be working....right?

so the appearance of plastic on an item and damage on a tool that autozone lends to every jabroni on the street leads you to believe your choice was better? Interesting. And since you haven't lost a wheel or stripped a lug (which have the ability to handle probably 75% more torque than recommended), you feel its accurate? That tells me all I need to know.

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As much as I enjoy reading your condescending views about everything and how you are so much smarter than everyone, you believe HF tools are quality. That tells me all I need to know.

Quad, I'm not sure what the problem is. Someone asked a question about what torque wrenches people were using. I provided the option that I chose to join in the discussion because I hadn't seen the model I chose discussed yet. You questioned my opinion so I gave you my logic in why I decided what I did. If you would've provided your comprehensive checklist on how every Porsche owner should choose their torque wrench on pg. 1, we all could've save 3 pages worth of posts and discussion. You have 11,000+ posts on this board and I'm new to the Porsche world and have 9, now 10 posts. Maybe this isn't the place for me. Can you tell me if you are a poster on 6speedonline as well? I'd like to join a good group discussion about 996's and learn and contribute as much as I can, but avoid your condescending posts. Good day and enjoy the view from your ivory tower.

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I said they work fine in most cases and, in the case of torque wrenches, performed as well or better than other more expensive options. Then again, i'm not sure you'd know what end of a torque wrench to use, so it might be moot

no surprise this thread took an ugly turn [pun]

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If you're using the non-ratchet end, I'm assuming you're using it as a club. In this case, avoiding models with plastic might be advisable depending on how often and to what extent you club people. I'd hate to have something break off mid-clubbing, so I use my all-metal, 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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Most of the time, HF (and any other low/mid quality tool) are actually fine. I have my "good" torque wrenches certified and all the HF ones that I've tested against them are pretty accurate. I've also tested (all of) them against a digital torque reader and the Proto/CDI/Craftsman/Kobalt/HF/whatever all read pretty close - especially in the primary working zone for the torque wrench (of course extremes have more margin of error, regardless of brand). You can use a simple hanging weight test to confirm as well. IIRC, even snap-on has something like 5% error in their readings. IMO, for most projects people are using HF for (e.g. wheels) you don't need any appreciable improvement in the level of precision that might come with a very expensive tool. For extremely high tolerance connections (aka expensive parts), I would probably double check the torque anyway. As with most repairs, user error is going to be the most likely cause of problems with any tool, regardless of where it's made. As to the original question : in terms of torque wrenches, I prefer the click-type with handle adjustment. Some of these have a pull down locking mechanism to keep you at your chosen torque, which I find helpful for doing a lot of the same type of connection, but I hate when I have to change it all the time. I don't like the thumb-wheel variants. Be sure you have a wrench that has the right range for what you're doing. For wheels, something with a top range of like 150 works. For axle nuts, you need ~600 ft lb one. If you get to that, I would try to borrow one as they're pricey. I find I have a tendency to (more easily) over-torque with my longer torque wrenches for some reason. Also pay attention to the head. If you have a bunch of 3/8" sockets, be sure you get the right wrench (or at least a step-up adapter for 3/8->1/2), which you can get at HF for almost nothing! ha! For most higher torque applications, you'll probably want 1/2" sockets and/or impact sockets anyway. Lastly, for the incremental price difference between HF and a Kobalt/Craftsman, I'd probably go with the Kobalt/Craftsman because they have a better rotating/locking mechanism and the fit/finish is better. But, I'd definitely have a backup HF though. Hell, you can test it yourself once you do! -td

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exactly well stated

I just picked this up used Snap On digital TechAngle. I never thought I would love a tool until I used it!

I've used hf 3/8" tq-wrench on all my cars for 5 years now - no issues - fine for occasional use. I did get the tektron 250lb/ft one from amazon for wheel nuts and bigger jobs ....

Ok, even though I've stayed out of this thread until now, I figure it's time to fan the flames a little bit... Check out this flyer, - I got it in a email today - scroll down to the bottom coupon on the right side... http://www.harborfreight.com/?utm_me...117a_tot_quote ... Direct comparison ! ! Flame on!!!

The Autozone torque wrench does not have any plastic http://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pli...nch/914018_0_0

I use snap-on, but I had to sell one of the kids into slavery to buy them

^That^ sure is snazzy looking! Just be careful when loving your tools...

HF Coupons: http://www.hfqpdb.com/

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I have that snap on impact and it's a beast

this is a very helpful site for harbor freight fans............kalecoauto.com . source of hard to get tools for tools eg. the left handed screwdriver is a must have for hard to reach places

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I'm sure it is (I think snap-on tools are great, and I have a few, but they're crazy expensive) but that's not what I was pointing to... The email I got was for a tool cabinet (11 drawer) for around $650.00 they were comparing it to a Snap-On unit that's very similar (size, 11 drawers, 16 guage steel, etc...) The Snap-On unit has a price of $4500.00 or thereabout...

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I'm sure M3driver has that too and its the best thing ever invented, while the HF one has rusted into dust after about 3 days

God, people will be dicks about anything.

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Huffy>Specialized.

Was at a friend's house tonight. His 959 comes with a torque wrench designed solely for the 959. Only one made per car.

The torque wrench above looks like a Stahlwille.

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@ahsai - What model number and overall length is your 5-75 ft-lb Snap-On torque wrench? I have a 5-100 ft-lb CTECH (Techangle) and its 19". It barely works for suspension work but I have to use torque adapters. A tool a few inches shorter would work better.

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That's exactly why I said the snapon is optimized on all aspects. The one I have is QD2FR75 , 15-3/4" long https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-Instruments-ft-lb--Torque-Wrench-Adj-Click-Type-U-S-Flex-Ratchet-5-75-ft-lb-3-8-drive-P640959.aspx

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That may be the coolest thing I've ever seen.

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It even says Stahlwille. Stahlwille makes great tools. If you've ever held their tools and compared them to others, they are noticeably lighter. Makes a difference if you're wrenching all day long!

@sweet victory - That's funny, I didn't even have my cheaters on so I couldn't see it. I just recognized the shape. Yes, I like the shorter German torque wrenches. Especially the models with interchangeable heads. They are nice for tight places. ie. Hazet 6290-1CT (5nm-60nm) 13-3/16 long including 1" long head/ratchet insert tool and Hazet 6291-2CT (20nm-120nm)16-1/4" long with 1" head. Both of these have the 9mmx12mm square receiver for the head/insert tool. The Hazet 6291-1CT (20nm-120nm) has a 14mmx18mm square receiver for insert tools and is 16-3/4" with 1" insert tool. you can find them on eBay from time to time.

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That Hazet set is very cool, but at $1800 and change, its way out of reach for the "casual mechanic"... Stahlwhile has a similar set for around $1600... still way out of my league... I love the idea of the open attachments for the torque body...

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$1800 is a bargain considering how much one regular wrench is Lol Are they made of platinum or something? $240 5-1/2" long http://m.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Early-Porsche-356-Hazet-450-Tool-Kit-WRENCH-9mm-X-8mm-/112327500248?nav=SEARCH For home mechanics, I found a crowfoot wrench placed 90 degree to the handle of the torque wrench is more than enough.

"For home mechanics, I found a crowfoot wrench placed 90 degree to the handle of the torque wrench is more than enough." ^this^ is my workaround as well... It can get kind of clunky though especially in tight spaces That German set is very elegant

Rather than just being a brand loyalist, I check the docs when I buy stuff. If X-brand torque wrench is accurate +/- 4% and Y-brand is +/- 3% but costs 5x more...I buy X. If I someday have such an amazing car - or such a carefully calibrated one - that mandates the extra 1% accuracy, I'll shell out for Y-brand at that time. If I ran a shop or used the tools on customer vehicles, I'd purchase a better tool and have it calibrated. But I don't.

@schnelly - how bad is the HF Mig welder?

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I'll answer it for him...it's a absolute piece of crap

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I have a few of their welders; the one I use most is a rosin-core (so, essentially, like sticks-on-a-spool but a lot less messy) that runs at 110 or 220. Even at 110, it sticks crap together; it also has a habit of burning through mild steel instead of welding it (it doesn't help that I'm cheap and insist on using thin stock or scrap). I welded 4 cast-iron brake rotors together with it about 10 years ago and they're still in the garden. I'm CERTAIN that if I whacked it with a hammer, the welds would break and it would fall apart. I would not use it to build my own roll cage. I _might_ use it to build Johnny Irish's roll cage. But if Face, The Colonel, BA, and Murdock show up and need to weld some plate onto the side of the van so they can drive through a "Mexican" cartel town and rescue a chesty damsel, I can hook them UP. Hah. SEE?

Lol, very nice schnelly! By the way, look what I finally unboxed! The most well wrapped harness bar ever prepared in the history of man. M3, how many HF tools have you actually used? Is your supreme disgust and hatred due to multiple failures or just an opinion you feel very certain about? photo315.jpg

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if you can afford it get a linclon or hobart mig 220 volt ....look for a duty cycle better than 20 % if you are serious about welding .

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^ Exactly. Regardless of whether it's a winch or a welder, it's all about the duty cycle. As far as welders and similar tools go, my crappy HF models are perfect until the right old guy comes along selling his GOOD crap (well, more accurately, when the old guy's family sells off his good crap at fire-sale prices). I picked up a vintage Hioki clamp tester at an estate sale for $2.50 on Sunday, and another tool is checked off the "wishIhadda" list. Now, where to find a plasma cutter for next to nothin'... Heh. I figured I was safe from any PayPal claims about the finish being damaged after that packing job.

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ive used a few and with the exception of my dead blow hammer I bought from HF, they have all failed miserably. The most notable example would be the slide hammer my buddy bought. I was helping him with some axle work (4wd wheel bearing), anywho brand new out of the box slide hammer, took one slide and the hammer part split in half right at the casting mark. I've tried/used various other tools from them and have had similar results. So either two things are happening. I have either extremely bad luck or their tools really are garbage. I tend to lean towards both

That makes sense. As for the welder, I have a Lincoln Ranger 8 that I bought new in 2000. I've always kind of wanted a little mig but haven't had much I can't do with my Ranger. That's why I was looking at cheap one. That, and I still have a long list of tools I want. With a tire changer and balancer being near the top of the list.

I built up what I consider an impressive tool collection a few pieces at a time over the last 20+ yrs by asking for tools for Christmas. I'm not one who really wants gifts but you know how that goes. So I'd ask for a socket set, ratchet, ect. On the more expensive items my family would just pool the gift. It beats getting a shirt I'll never wear, or some trinket I don't have a use for. I've spent a thousands on my own, but the gifts on the smaller stuff really helped piece the collection together. for welder I went with the Hobart handler 140...for a 110 welder it does a great job

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mmmmm no. split beams maybe... but the twist ones, def not. ive had 3 PI click wrenches, one i had to send back and swap out because it was DOA, the exchange was a pain in the nuts. The replacement wrench never felt like it had a totally smooth action. The rest of them I used for about 2 years and sold. The only one that felt good was the 1/2" one. the other ones felt vague sometimes. They always tested accurate but they did not inspire confidence while using. PI certainly does not 'make' snap-on... the two wrenches are very different when next to one another. best bet would be CDI brand at a fraction of the cost. people talk smack on the craftsman digitorks but those were great wrenches. i dont get why the get a bad rap. mine never fell apart, always felt good and worked great. each time ive swapped a tool out out for snap-on, ive never wanted to replace or change it again.

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Agreed, but there is no need to buy the whole set as I'm sure 80% of the set would go unused. I stumbled across mine and it had a 1/4" ratchet drive head, 11mm flare nut head and 18mm box head. I paid around $275 on the bay. I would buy a ratcheting 1/4" or 3/8" drive head and only what you need with respect to box head or flare heads (insert tools). The 5 ft-lb to 75 ft-lb. Snap-On mentioned earlier in the thread seems like a good bang for the buck given the short length and can probably be had for around $200 on eBay. I believe the new Snap-On price was $330.

Yikes, 5 pages on torque wrench suggestions with lots of good ideas. Picked up a brand new made in USA SK 74250 1/2 drive at estate sale for $50. Seems like a decent enough one for my needs 25-250 ftlb, 20" long, clicker style. Now I need to find a smaller one that I can use for valve covers, water pumps, etc, etc. Thinking the snap-on mentioned above might be the ticket if lucky enough to find one at good price. Any preference 1/4" or 3/8" for light work such as valve covers, etc, etc

WP bolts are torqued to 7.5 ftlbs, so you really want a 1/4 in

I used this inlb one to assemble my engine. Lots of 7.5ftlb (90 inlb) bolts. https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2502MRMH-8-Inch-250-Inc/dp/B004618UI8

I use snap on torque wrenches the "clicker " type .I also have the snap on tool guy recalibrate them every two years .You would be surprised how much they can be off even with regular use.It's a small fee about $20 each and well worth it.The vast majority of my tools are snapon ,as I am a retired senior master tech .

I also recommend Torque Wrenches for Scope Mounting. Often I use these products and remain satisfied. Quality and price 100%. See below information https://torquewrenchguide.com/review...cope-mounting/

Surprised this thread came back to life but good time to update. Landed up buying two torque wrenches, 1/4� & 1/2� drive, both from eTork. 1/4� - Model #C1200 1/2� - Model #C3150 Both have proven to be quality tools that are easy to use and function well. Links below....... Amazon Amazon Amazon Amazon