Radio has no power after removing spare tire.

Took my spare tire out today to haul some big things. The radio will not come on at all now. It is an aftermarket head unit and the car does have Bose sound. I've checked the fuses that I thought made sense and they were all good. Maybe it has nothing to do with the spare tire, but that would be strange since I've had the car for a few months with nothing like this ever happening. 2002 C2

Check the wiring around where the tire was/is. Most likely knocked something off when you pulled the spare, or loaded your cargo into it.

Everything looks secure. I looked at all of the wires and plugs for the Bose system. Does the power for the radio get routed up there first and then back to the radio? BTW...It didn't work before anything was loaded in and I leaned the tire forward before I took it out. It's very strange...lol

Get the multi-meter out, start at the battery and work your way back.

Fuse

I checked D8 and D9. Are there any others I should look at?

I would pull up the carpet around the spare area and see if they had rewired something up front, chances they did

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Hey Ryan, First of all we need to determine what's been changed in your system... just because it says "BOSE" on the speaker grilles, doesn't mean anything unless you can confirm the trunk amp, processor, and speakers weren't changed out with the aftermarket HU. These systems have separate 12v for the amp and the HU. question.., Will the radio light up and no sound, or is it completely dead? Why not take some pictures of the HU and frunk amp and post? That will be a great help.

I can tell that all of the BOSE system upfront is all still there and is factory. I see BOSE on some of the parts up there and the bracket with the amp in front of the battery is intact. The HU is a Kenwood DNX890HD. I could take pictures for sure when it gets light tomorrow. The radio is totally dead. No lights or anything at all. I checked under the carpet as much as I could and didn't see any wires. I also looked in the harnesses for the amp and didn't see anything spliced in.

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Did you use a multimeter to see if there is power in any of the wires? Time to get your hands dirty.

I will as soon as I rule out everything else...

There is no factory wiring related to the radio (especially powering the HU) routed near the spare tire. As it is an aftermarket unit, however, all bets are off as they could have done any fool thing and we can't really help without seeing it (e.g. pics). Most likely this is just coincidence and has nothing to do with the tire (assuming you don't show us a pic of your frunk with a rat's nest of wiring. As far as still having the Bose setup, just because you see the parts doesn't mean anything. It is fairly common for the factory gear to be routed around when installing anything aftermarket. This happens for one or more of the following reasons: *) Factory gear is not compatible (e.g. MOST based) *) The new gear is better. *) The installer is incompetent. The first thing I would do is pull the head unit as what it is hiding is the most telling about what you are in for. If you find a mess of splices and a hacked up harness, you're life is likely to be miserable for awhile as it was installed by an incompetent idiot (e.g. Best Buy job...). If you find nice and clean wiring where they used an appropriate harness adapter then your life will be easier. Also check the back of the HU for a fuse, some have one either on the non-switched power line or built into their housing. While you have the HU out, run it down to a car audio shop and have them bench test it. That will either be the source of your problem (dead unit) or at least rule it out as the source of the issue. Assuming the wiring is clean and the HU checks out, then it's a power issue. If there are no extra cables coming off the battery then it's powered off the factory harness which means a fuse/wiring issue. First thing to do would be to pull the appropriate fuse and use a multimeter to do a continuity test from the fuse to the non-switched power pin on the HU harness. Next is to test the continuity of the ground pin(s). If both those check out, replace the fuse. I have had rare cases where the fuse looked good, but replacing it solved the issue as there really was a very hard to see break after all. If the wiring is a disaster then you are going to have to trace everything to figure out where it goes and check the path along the way. If electronics and wiring aren't your thing, then I would suggest paying for professional services at that point and have them clean everything up while they are in there.

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You are doing this halfassed. Since you were looking at the fuses, should have checked for +12V too. After all, you are looking for +12V so why not start with looking for that?

Same thing happened to me, it ended up being a fuse in my Amp not in the vehicles fuse box.

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Yup. Time to see what wire got pinched, or which wire had cracked insulation and jiggling the spare tire mounting hardware was enough to short it out. Depending on the amp (or how much the previous owner wasted on Monster Power cables), the installer may have tapped the battery. If so, and if he included an inline fuse between the amp and the battery, blowing that fuse blindly wouldn't be as unlikely as it seems. I always add a fuse just before the battery or power terminal - the one time you don't is the one where the insulation will chafe off between the battery and the amp... The answer lies behind the carpet in the front trunk.

"Halfassed" is pretty harsh of an assumption. I just asked if there were any situations where the HU would stop working as a result of removing the spare tire. All of the other given information was a direct result of the questions that I've been asked about it. I have not been able to give the issue my full undivided attention yet, but that doesn't mean I'm not invested in digging in to find out what the problem is.

If you get miffed every time Imo000 is brusque...well...you'll be miffed a lot. But, your comment made me reread your post. I thought it was the amp that was not working, but you said the head unit stopped after the spare was removed. The aftermarket amp will have a power lead that goes directly to the fuse block or distribution block and the remote power from the head unit that triggers the amp (unless the amp is detecting speaker-level output, which would be unforgivable in your case). I'm guessing the remote power line for the amp got pinched when you removed the spare and you blew an upstream fuse on or ahead of the head unit. I am willing to wager 25 cents.

Yeah, Imo ain't got time for coddling noobs. Don't take it personally. On the other hand, he and his brother once bought a fully functional 996 for, like, six bucks and change. So, there's that. OK, I'm gonna step outside the box here and ask if it might be the ignition switch starting to fail.

Not miffed at all. I just haven't had the time to really get into it and thought it might be something simple that someone had happen before. I will go through and try all of the suggestions hopefully tomorrow. Thanks!

Get r done!

I ready... Wife just started a 7 day stretch off of work and she says that we are going to do something. Maybe I can convince her to jump in and help. I'll keep you updated with any new developments.

"Wife just started a 7 day stretch off of work and she says that we are going to do something." Hopefully she's got something better than working on your car in mind...

Back on a more serious note... My prediction is this was a BOSE non-most system with the CDR-220. The previous owner either had problems with the Becker CDR-220 or wanted a more modern radio with Bluetooth, Navigation, USB, etc. It's also very likely that the newer Kenwood Double-DIN setup was properly wire-harnessed into the existing Porsche wiring. This is more easily done with the pre-MOST systems. But it's also just as likely that the unit wasn't properly wired and something has shorted out the HU. It's my opinion, the HU is the problem. Either an internal fuse on the Kenwood is bad, the fuse at the main box is bad, or the HU is toast. The HU sends a 12V switched source to turn the frunk amp on when the radio comes on and so if the HU is completely dead, then the amp is not going to come on either. To begin with, I would check the main 12V from the fuse box at the HU and see if the unit is getting clean power and then work your way to the amp.

I know it's boring, but I pulled out the HU to inspect the wires. I put everything back in and everything is fine now. I guess there was a pinched wire that was unrelated to the spare tire.

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Sounds like you have a broken wire/contact that lost contact when the tire was pulled. Moving the harness reconnect the broken ends but probably only temporarily.

I'm sure it is a temporary fix. I'm happy with that for now. I've owned the car for over 3 months and that was the first sign of any problem. I'll update this thread if it ever happens again and I actually have to dig in to fix it.

my 996 turbo radio says "system error:amplifyer,cd chabger,not avail" how do I check power to those units? My fuse panel does not show which fuse it may be

where is the fuse in the amp? I have power to amp

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That's a German anti-theft feature. The car has a sensor to detect if an unauthorized person is stealing the spare. If this is sensed, the radio grenades itself to make it useless to the thief. It was a highly controversial feature, supported by the radio manufacturers and opposed by the insurance industry and the thieves union.