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YOUR RESEARCHmotor mounts
Leading reported evidence
Inspect engine mounts and didn't
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
inspected the engine mounts and didn't change them out..........
Leading evidence: 'Inspect engine mounts and didn't' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'most often cited symptoms' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill "' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
Tailpipe(s) sagging, clunk/bumps when shifting, especially aggressive driving, age are probably the most often cited symptoms.
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Suggestion
Maybe, but it should be noted that these mounts are "fluid filled"...
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Suggestion
Made light years difference changing the mount in my Boxste'.
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Suggestion
My passenger seat still vibrates after replacing all the mounts.
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Suggestion
The first thing I distinclty noted was some vagueness in shifting gears on the highway when the car had been running for hours and the mounts were heat soaked.
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Other than miles driven or age of car, what are the symptoms of motor mounts being toast?
sagging tail pipes? how much sag?
Vibrations?????????? I don't notice any but that could be a long time conditioned reaction.
Tailpipe(s) sagging, clunk/bumps when shifting, especially aggressive driving, age are probably the most often cited symptoms. I think at this point if you are on original mounts it's a good bet they are shot. Assuming no rust issues it's a really quick replacement.
Depending on what you replace them with, vibration/NVH could increase. You have to decide if that's a good thing or not.
Edit to add: tailpipes sagging can be misleading, especially if aftermarket exhaust or tips have been installed. If you're really bored, you could pretty easily pull one and look at it. I replaced mine and they were quite obviously shot.
Mine didn't cause any vibration, I had maybe a little tail pipe sag after 13 years. I think it is a very slow decline so you generally don't notice. The first thing I distinclty noted was some vagueness in shifting gears on the highway when the car had been running for hours and the mounts were heat soaked.
The difference with new OEM mounts was really surprising. Precise shifting, noticeably better control of the engine's mass when driving in almost any condition. No change in NVH from the old mounts. I'll probably refresh mine every 2-3 years to be honest. Costs little and results are great.
The biggest tip-off to me was the "sloshing bucket of water" through twisty turns. It was very noticeable in my car - I had around 140,000 mi. when I changed them, and I figure they were original equipment with the car...
I could feel the "loose" motor/mounts through turns long before I realized my exhaust tips were a little low (about 1/3" lower than with the new mounts).
when I had the ISB done they changed out the trans mount. inspected the engine mounts and didn't change them out.......... Am thinking it an easy do on my own lift and contemplating it.
Are the OEM mounts that much better then after market? $175 each as opposed to $89?
Worn motor mounts will also show themselves with excessive exhaust tip movement upon throttle blips, hard acceleration, and braking, along with the noted sagging tips.
Rein mounts are $67 ea on Amazon. I just ordered some after I noticed my driver side exhaust was sitting lower than the passenger side. I'm also experiencing intermittent clunk shifting from 1st to 2nd. There's also a rattle over bumps I can't diagnose - hopefully this takes care of it.
Moderately easy job. Support the engine on a block of wood at the pan, need a couple deep well sockets, have to move the aux air blower on left. Maybe couple hours for the first go at it, 1 hour job if you've done it before. Pelican has a write up also. Rein mounts are working fine in my 99.
Did you make sure to align the squared post in the square hole? You will notice the square section up near the rubber on the mount post. It must align with the square hole in order to keep the mount from just twisting the rubber.
You will have to jack the engine some to take up the droop from the old mounts, but the nut should come up tight.
Thanks JTT. I did not realize there was that square part. I looked and both rubber parts are not twisted, and fit snug so I would be surprised if they did not automatically align and the mount the can only fit one way. Having said that, my point is the higher one jacks up the engine, the more bolt sticks out. So the real question is how high to jack up the engine.
I adjusted the engine so the new mounts have the same amount of bolt coming thru the nut when tightened. I figured the original engine height when it came out of the factory should be the correct height.
Hope I am not missing something here.
Maybe, but it should be noted that these mounts are "fluid filled"... What generally happen over time is that the fluid leaks out through the cracked/torn rubber. Once this happens, the mount loses its ability to buffer engine vibration and movement. They also sag - lending to the visual cue of drooping tailpipes...
Something is missing/wrong. You should not be able to keep tightening those nuts and pulling the stud through. They should come up tight, just like they were a standard bolt (with is essentially what they are, only top of the bolt is a bock of rubber) (something like 63 ftlbs in fact). Are you working with new mounts? I'd pull them back out and check that square section (it can misalign) and that the rubber isn't torn or twisted.
Checked them and they were seated correctly but not fully torqued down. Not sure I understand it fullu, the distance to the mounts, but they did tighten regardless of jacking the engine. Thanks all.
In my turbo the transmission mount made the biggest difference. It was basically torn and you felt the engine pull back upon stepping on the throttle. I would like to try one of those inserts as I'm sure it would make a difference. My passenger seat still vibrates after replacing all the mounts.
You clearly don't understand it fully..."Jacking" the engine, is moving in the opposite direction of tightening the mounts. I reiterate - the weight of the engine hangs on the mounts...i.e. if you loosen the mounting bolts (the 18mm bottom ones) the engine drops...
After the ride got increasingly harsh, I finally changed them out. As everyone has stated, it's a noticeable difference. Ride is now still firm and taut but not harsh. As for smoother shifting and turning, haven't noticed yet. But if you think it needs to be done, do it.
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