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YOUR RESEARCHMotor mounts
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Just replaced stock mounts and FSI installed my 3.8.
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The cars driving characteristics changed dramatically.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Just replaced stock mounts and FSI installed my 3.8.
Use 18mm deep socket and two three inch extensions
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Used 18mm deep socket and two three inch extensions to torque nuts on bottom to 63 ft-lbs.
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All, how much space between the exhaust tips and the body to indicate the need for now motor mounts?
FWIW, the car is 2000C2 with 75k miles and no shifting issues.
TIA
I'd be interested in this too. Not to hijack a thread, but I am also curious about what replacement mounts folks are using. Just stock or going with semi-solid?
I don't know that there is a set rule as to how low they should hang as an indicator of needing replacement. I would say if your car has the original motor mounts... go ahead and swap them out. I just replaced mine with RSS semi-solids because they were original ('01 C4). Only 14,200 miles when I did it but it was definitely needed. The cars driving characteristics changed dramatically.
Factory spec for a MK2 is 20mm
However that's not to say the tips themselves haven't come loose and dropped down.
If in doubt just swap them out (the engine mounts that is). They aren't expensive and are a wear item you'll notice a difference when you do.
New motor mount versus old motor mount. With the weight of the engine suspended from the old mount I'm sure it probably dropped down another 1/4". I replaced mine with OE Porsche motor mounts. They were not that expensive. Makes a real difference in how the car feels.
Rein mounts $85 each from here
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=109-00
Corteco mounts $107.30
I bought the OE Porsche mounts for $189.24 because I'm a glutton for punishment, and I like Porsche OE stuff
I went with RSS semi solid, as OP stated if really changes the feel of the car.
A good quality semi solid, I would recommend if used for spirited driving.
But they may not be for everybody.
I believe RSS had a discount to RL members a while back.
Just for reference. On one of my mounts, the nut was frozen solid and the threaded shaft actually unscrewed from the mount. There is no way I would have been able to remove and reuse the nut
Same thing happen with mine. With the nut seized to the bolt that goes into the mount it just spun the whole bolt out. New hardware would be a good idea when you install the new mounts.
It wasn't necessary to cut anything. The bolt unscrewed completely. If I didn't have the new nut on hand I would have had to wait to complete the job.
Another tip is to have another floor jack available if needed. If you don't have the jack centered exactly, one side will drop a few inches and you won't be able to thread the nut on the bolt without lifting that side. Ask me how I know.
I am trying to visualize how these work.
From the picture above, the mounts are flipped so the bolts point down. Does the bolt on each mount screw into a mounting bracket that attach to the motor? Do you put a wrench on the bolt or just spin the mount? After the bolt on the mount is screwed into the bracket (on each side) 2 bolts (on each mount) then go though the mount flange and screw into the car body? Don't need to go underneath and hold some nuts while the bolts are tightened from the top?
My car occasionally pops out of gear but not sure if mount related or I am just not fully engaging into the gear. Just got the car and still getting used to it. I had a PPI done (2 months ago) so I would have hoped they would have pointed this out if a problem but you never know.
Thanks,
David
The two screws on the top prevent the mount from moving. The long center bolt goes through a part of the engine carrier and you have to remove the nut from underneath. Unlike most cars, the engine actually hangs from the motor mounts.
You don't even need to have the car on ramps, but you do need to support the engine with a jack. Just a tiny bit of lift, undo the nut with a socket, long extension and ratchet wrench, then proceed to the engine bay, undo the two bolts that hold the motor mount and off it comes. Make sure to line up the square bit in the engine carrier when reinstalling.
Ahh thats right now I remember that the "stud" threads into the engine mount.
My RS mounts have a straight through bolt but I wasn't happy with the lack of thread below the nut (I know it wouldn't have really made a difference) but slightly longer 10.9 bolts helps me sleep at night haha. From memory they were cayenne suspension bolts that I used.
I used Rennline semi solid "adjustable" mounts. Street bushing on top, Street / Track bushing on bottom. HUGE difference from OEM!. About 1 hour and a beer in the garage.
I don't know the numbers, but if you have original mounts it's worth doing. I didn't notice any issues with mine but when I replaced them, I could see that the old ones were shot like the photos several posts above. It's an easy, yet manly DIY. "I replaced my motor mounts." Whoo Hoo! Non-996 owner will be impressed.
cheapest fix with best results I've done. smoother shifting, goes easily into first at stop. less vibration.
Mine weren't worn out, just worn. 1/4" to 3/8 inches drop in stud from top .
I'll look for images but I did post earlier space difference of new vs old.
Stubby Phillips screwdriver head fit between ex. pipe tip and bumper cover, after replacement it cut that in half. approx 5/8 - 3/4" spacing now. before 1.25"
Sorry if mention, anyone know how far the stock muffler tips should hang below the opening on a 2002 4S. Mine are at an 1". The car shifts into all gears fine but sometimes pops out. It might be me not fully engaging. I was use to 00 Box S with a short Shift which was certainly stiffer. I just had the clutch (IMSB) done about 500 miles ago. Would it be something that would mention? Also, I just had a PPI done about the same time. No mention of the motor mounts.
Before I just throwing money again. No idea when last done or if every done. Bought off woman who inherited when dad passed. She couldn't find any receipts.
What gear does it pop out of? There r detant issues in 1st and 2nd gear and fixes r out there.
I would guess over an inch is too much but that might just be a tip adjustment. If u pull one, the worn out ones will be "extended". There r several comparison pics out there.
Accelerating from a stop felt engine vibrations and tailpipes low. Want smooth ride so got stock Porsche
motor mounts
$400 delivered. Bolts and nuts fine for reuse on California car.
Drove up 2x10s, pair of stacked 2x12s would have created much better access to nuts under vehicle. Two jacks allow exact support positioning, and mounts lift out easily. At 103k miles both mounts completely collapsed. Used 18mm deep socket and two three inch extensions to torque nuts on bottom to 63 ft-lbs. Another extension was almost needed.
Only slowdown; project book didn't say plug to airbox had locking tab on back where it can't be seen. Firmly depress as shown and connector slides off.
New mounts raised tailpipes, and lessened but didn't eliminate vibrations when beginning to accelerate. Expected dramatic difference, got good but not huge improvement.
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