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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHas anyone here replaced E-Brake cables?
Leading reported evidence
Use pair of pliers
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used a pair of pliers to press it back in to the new cable end.
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Suggestion
Wow ok little nervous to do this one but that cable will pull out and the new one goes in easy or did you run a pull string through when removing the old one?
Leading evidence: 'Use pair of pliers' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run pull string through' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Wow ok little nervous to do this one but that cable will pull out and the new one goes in easy or did you run a pull string through when removing the old one?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
What I wound up doing was using a long extension with a socket that went over the tube (to sort of hold it in line) and tapped it in - you don't want to maul the end of the tube because the cable end is a snug fit and it's got an O-ring that you don't want to tear up.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Where the cable meets the body, you'll need to use some force to get them out.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Run pull string through
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Wow ok little nervous to do this one but that cable will pull out and the new one goes in easy or did you run a pull string through when removing the old one?
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
What I wound up doing was using a long extension with a socket that went over the tube (to sort of hold it in line) and tapped it in - you don't want to maul the end of the tube because the cable end is a snug fit and it's got an O-ring that you don't want to tear up.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T192637Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My right rear E/Parking brake cable has broken off at the short tube that goes into the back of the mounting plate. It rusted right at the steel end where the cable enters the aluminum tube. The drivers side cable still works, but is rusted as well and it's probably only a matter of time 'til it breaks as well. I've already ordered the cables and tubes and I'm awaiting their arrival (from AutoAtlanta). I can't seem to find any info besides adjustment of the the parking brake...
I have not but check out your pads while you are at it...I was surprised that on my 20K original mile car they were cracked and chipping off pad compound.
^^Yeah^^ - difficult not to once everything is apart... I guess once I get the new cables it should be obvious how everything comes apart and goes back together. ** I haven't been able to find any info on this job... when I'm finished, I'll write it up.
There is a write up in the rear e-brake pad in the Pelican 101 Projects book. I don’t recall it covering the cable, but other than the corrosion, it should be pretty straightforward, unbolt the handle end and slide it back through the tube. Assembly is the reverse of removal
I've got 101 projects...nuffin! These things are always obvious in retrospect - I was just hoping to have some reference before hand so I don't go and break something...
At both attachment points it is pretty straightforward. Where the cable meets the body, you'll need to use some force to get them out. They are held in just by pressure. I find a vice grip works. Lock them on, and twist back and forth until it breaks loose.
^^That's perfect^^ Thanks Kris - sort of what I thought (though I was worried they might be threaded - figured I'd just wait 'til I got the new ones). I put some channel locks on them last night, but they didn't budge...Vise-grips next!
I got the vice grips on them last night. Tough, but they came off. What I couldn’t get out was the old rusted cable end that had broken off at the rear right wheel. I had to cut it off with the Dremel tool...
The first photo is the cable end that rotted and broke. The second is the tube that the cable passes through at the back of the wheel. The third photo is the pin that holds the end of the cable to the peice that expands the e-brake shoes when you pull the lever. The pin is an interference fit and comes out with a punch. I used a pair of pliers to press it back in to the new cable end.
Just to close out this thread, I finished the parking brake cables on Friday night. Once I figured out that the cables just sit in the "tubes" (Thanks again Kris Murphy), it was pretty straight forward. One of the trickiest things was getting the short tubes inserted in the back of the wheel carrier. Due to it's location behind the front control arm, it's difficult to get a hammer or mallet on it. What I wound up doing was using a long extension with a socket that went over the tube (to sort of hold it in line) and tapped it in - you don't want to maul the end of the tube because the cable end is a snug fit and it's got an O-ring that you don't want to tear up.
Wow ok little nervous to do this one but that cable will pull out and the new one goes in easy or did you run a pull string through when removing the old one? I know this is a lot of questions I'm just trying to wrap my head around this tha ks guys.
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