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YOUR RESEARCHdropped some weight, added some power, and no more IMS issues. . . LS1 content
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freaking $5 switch
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dropped some weight, added some power, and no more IMS issues. . . LS1 content
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The paint under the bumperettes is nasty after never being cleaned over 10+ years of life on the back of a car.
dropped some weight, added some power, and no more IMS issues. . . LS1 content
Install ipod hook up
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dropped some weight, added some power, and no more IMS issues. . . LS1 content
Install ls3 water pump
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Over the past few days I installed the LS3 water pump.
dropped some weight, added some power, and no more IMS issues. . . LS1 content
Install porsche roof transport system
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Installed Porsche Roof Transport System that I've had for 9 months
dropped some weight, added some power, and no more IMS issues. . . LS1 content
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The coolant reservoir is still not draining coolant, it's the highest point, and there's no coolant in the engine.
This is a total budget build.
Rundown on car: '99 C2, 125k miles, 60k on engine/exhaust, upgraded IMS bearing, GT3 wheels, carbon interior accents, full service history, etc. Overall a good car.
Rundown on me: virtually zero knowledge of the LS1 or 996; scared of all the 3.4 failures; wanted something not boring for a cheap DD/winter car; self-taught backyard mechanic.
I bought the 911 in September; sold the 3.4 in October; bought a Z28 Camaro in October; sold the Z28 without an engine in November; Renegade Hybrid engine mount and coolant system arrived in November; many install issues along the way required me to stop install the first week of January; I started back up this week and the car should be done by the end of the week. So I present to rennlist, the bastard build, LS1 996.
the full story:
http://996ls1.blogspot.com/
picture version:
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That is one big intake! Ton of work there - nice job - serious backyard mechanic. Not sure the wide body wheels fit too well - might be angle of the photo. Needs to be lowered too - sure you have that on this list given all that you have done.
Just curious how much weight was dropped? I have a hard time getting my head around a LS1 being that much lighter then a 3.4 flat 6.
Amazing build BTW, can't imagine the looks you will get when you crack the throttle on that baby!
That's what the 996 is being used to keep the miles off of. Yes, Michigan.
I don't know how much weight has been dropped yet, but as soon as I get it out on the road I will weigh it.
There is weight loss associated with the swap. Definitely less weight hanging off the back of the car.
Subscribed for the dash wiring info. Not many have done this successfully on the OEM electrics.
It will be interesting to have a drag race when you're done between your 996 LS and your Lambo.
Or even better a 0-100-0 run.
I'm already working on a ABS cover that will go over the entire rear license area for those that want a euro bumper look for the '99-'01s.
You will have to drill out the stock rivets on the bracket holding on the US bumperettes though.
The stock rivets were not bad to drill out, just time consuming since there are 8 of them.
That's a great idea for covering the entire area. The paint under the bumperettes is nasty after never being cleaned over 10+ years of life on the back of a car.
A little over two years and almost 20k miles. Very reliable; fluids, front pads, brake light switch, air bag light switch, a weak coilpack, and had to reverse some modifications by the previous owner.
On sweet Jesus it was a conversion Good stuff. I got rail roaded for putting a 6 speed 993 trans in my America roadster turbo build. Good stuff gotta think out side the box.
How today went - car towed to Porsche tech for new slave cylinder because I couldn't get any tool on the fitting:
1. call tow - good
2. white out happens while loading car onto trailer - not so good
3. call from Porsche tech that slave cylinder is off - good
4. call from Porsche tech that slave cylinder rod fell into bell housing and car won't be ready today because he had to fish out the rod - bad
5. because of #4, bill went up
6. went to secretary of state for new plates and was in & out in under 20 min - good
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See you had our same beautiful spring weather today! The car sounds great. Would be fun to see the reaction at Okemos Auto. You should take it in and tell them it has been sounding different. Might have to come check it out.
Sounds like one. lol
I'm just checking on the entire car, so nothing performance to report. I don't have power steering yet and I don't think the car needs it. Steering is very light for no pump.
It is a great engine. With the electric water pump, no power steering & a/c not hooked up = real fast revs.
I'm going to put all my costs and deductions together and see the total. I'll post up the results
Very cool build and props to you for pulling it off....nice taste of cars
but im with rosslifford on this one and not a big fan of the big cluncky amarican engines unless its diesel
So - just out of curiosity - what makes it big and clunky if it fits in the same space and makes 33% more power?
I mean this in all seriousness, not trying to be a d!ck at all.
There are no rules or right or wrong in my eyes if someone just wants to go fast. Everything goes.
I can't wait til you get on it. I would like to hear your thoughts coming from a Lamborghini owner who has a reference as to what "fast" is.
Man, that is one big fat hairy project! My hat's off to you! That's a testament to ingenuity, perseverance, and, most notably, the "It's So Crazy It Might Just Work" syndrome. Very cool.
Isn't it a shame that the venerable Porsche can't build a motor with a valve train as reliable as a small-block Chevy? It only goes to show that the more shafts, pulleys, chains, gears, and other whiz-bangs you engineer into an engine, the worse off you tend to be. The M96 replaced by a 50-year-old push rod design, and to great effect.
Great work, Nick!
Thanks!
Yeah, the LSx is a great engine for power, weight, reliability, and very low cost.
It will all come in time. I have to put together the receipts over the past 6 months to get some totals, but the entire swap cost me less than an upgraded IMS bearing.
Again its amazing what white out did
The LS1 is a 5.7 liter that makes 350hp compared to 3.6L thats at 315hp. LS1 produces 61.4hp/liter where as m96 3.6L is at 87.5hp/liter. Just a personal prefrence, i like the smaller finer tuned high reving engines...
AGAIN not saying its a bad engine. Just a personal preference.
I belive white out got the engine from a Z28.
Here is the info (you do the math Imo000)
LS1 Specs
Type 5.7 liter V-8
Displacement Displacement 5.665 liters or 345.69 cubic inches
Horsepower * 305 Z28, 320 SS/WS-6 @ 5250 , 345 Corvette @ 5600 rpm
Torque (lb-ft) * 335 Z28 , 345 SS/WS-6, 350 Corvette @ 4400 rpm
Max. Engine Speed 6000 rpm
Fuel System Sequential Fuel Injection
Bore/Stroke 99.00/92.00mm (3.90/3.62 in.)
Firing Order 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
Valve Configuration Overhead Valves
Valve Lifters Hydraulic Roller (Rocker arm ratio 1.7:1)
Emissions Control Three-way catalyst, AIR, PCV
My engine is an '01 which has a little more aggressive cam and LS6 intake manifold. With the exhaust, intake, electric water pump, no ps pump, and tuning on my car, it should be around 320whp and similar torque. The ability to get 350-370whp is about $500-700 in parts mixed with a tune.
Currently the a/c isn't hooked up (looking for a belt) and with just the alternator on the engine, it rev's like a much higher revving engine.
Pushrods don't make for very interesting hp/litre numbers. But the larger the litre, the lower the stress for power.
For some reason I thought the instrument panel was tied to the car's computer. Are the gauges working properly? OBDII reporting in ways that it could get through smog tests?
The gearing was designed around a different rpm/torque range. Will be interesting to see how you feel it works with this engine over time.
Nice that you got it running.
I might be willing to do an install on another car. After doing it once, I could definitely kock a large portion of time off the swap.
I'm tapping the wiring harness in the engine bay for signal to the gauges. Just have to get some time to wire up the tach, oil pressure, and water temp gauges. The oil pressure sender is OEM 996.
Porsche OBDII isn't hooked up to the engine. GM OBDII is running the engine, the port is behind the rear seat.
Gearing will be very interesting to see. It's one of the reasons I'm running the 295 rear tires.
Super impressive
I hope you can create Astros by step documentation
If you can build a part list as you compile your expense sheet would be a great pointer for us wanting to get into the ls1 adventure
Selling the very valuable flat6 is really making this project almost free so
I believe a lot DIYers might be in line for this cool mod
I would live to see the part list and understand how much is assembly and how much us custom part fabrication, the later scarring me a lot more than the Lego job
What a sleeper ! This is awesome
BTW, I am surprised you can get away with the wide body offset rear wheels. I thought it was not "possible"... I assume it is, just that the wheels stick out a bit, but I bet you have something in your bag to take care of that.. may be some fender flares
the 295's stick out a little. With coilovers, rolling fenders, and playing with camber it will be flush with the body.
as the car sits now:
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when the engine/trans was out:
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The first shot doesn't seem too bad but how much additional camber we talking about past the factory spec?
Always wondered if there was enough material to mill 3-5mm worth of metal on the backside of the rim. Never had the hollow turbo twists personally so don't know.
First shot is how it sits with weight, the second is with none, so you can see how much the tire tucks as the car lowers. With the LS1 swap the rear end has monster truck wheel gap. So lowering the car should get the tire to tuck under the fender, but it may need a little camber to clear a fender.
This is a daily driver, not track car, so nothing aggressive if I have to adjust it. Rolling fender > camber adjustment IMO.
Holy s#$%! White- outs a Preacher? Please forgive any prior offensive posts from me.
BTW, great build and swap. I am also one of the flat six fan club but I can understand this swap in an older 996 or blown engine 996.
I haven't gotten it weighed in yet. But I did stop by some scales before tearing it apart, so I do have numbers to match.
Based on the amount of wheel gap, the rear end is lighter.
Thanks!
Totally understand. It's not a swap for everyone.
with that logic you should get an s2000 with 110 hp per liter!
All these figures are worthless since the OP has already stated it has an aftermarket cam and ls6 intake.
I think you're missing the point of this swap.
-Reliability
-Price
-Price of increasing HP/TQ
-Price of maintenance
-lighter and more powerful stock for stock
You can't make a n/a 996 fast without dumping at least $25k into it. Hell, just to humor myself i looked for flat6 swaps on ebay, found a couple gt3 motors for a paultry $40k and $58k!?!?! Just for the motor!! I mean a stock reman 3.4 is $12k! For $12k you can have a fully built lsx motor and a power adder like a procharger, that can easily net 700+whp and have money left over. The flat6 motors cost thousands for very minimal gains. But again, i guess its preference.
It's a stock cam, just in '01 it's more aggressive than '98-'00.
But yeah, price per hp, the only thing cheaper than a small block chevy is a small block ford. lol
Thanks Capt.......
Everyone has different taste and i respect that.....but if wanted a S2000 (which is also a very fun car to drvie) or corvette or any other car besides my 996 i would get that instead, especially that they are much cheaper to BUY and MAINTAIN.
I like the very well balanced power and drive of a porsche...
S2000 is a very fun car to rev the crap out of. It's a shame Honda killed that car.
I got a spot directly in front of the gym last night and stared at the 996 bastard for the 30 minutes I was on the treadmill. Such a great car for the dollar.
I wonder if there are any Germans out there who have swapped a M96 motor into their C5 'vette. And if there are did they do so for reasons of "reliability." Because according to TUV ...
http://www.anusedcar.com/index.php/t...el/porsche-911
over the past week the following happend:
1. electric water pump would shut off after 30 seconds, so I wired the water pump to a switch (looks like a race car inside)
2. wired the tachometer
3. built an exhaust
4. re-routed the coolant lines that were flowing wrong
The coolant reservoir is still not draining coolant, it's the highest point, and there's no coolant in the engine. Trying to figure out this is my next hurdle.
I changed the way the hoses are routed during the swap (to the correct flow) and they now sit low. It really cleans up the engine bay.
before:
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after:
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It's loud, but not deafening. Definitely quieter than Lambo. The nice part is if I get sick of it, I can add OE 996 mufflers to the mix and really quiet it down. But I am going for cheap and light with the build, so this is fitting for the purpose at hand.
Less than you would think. But they have been helpful with wiring (so has ECS) and some other quirks of the build.
Think that license plate will fool the cops?
All they have to look for is a porsche with a plate numer that only has Es and 3s in it and you are busted :-)
It sounds so much better with the new exhaust. I'll definitely get a clip up.
That's a good plan.
It's not meant to fool anyone, police around here have plate cameras that automatically run the plates.
I've ran the E3 plate for years, it looks good IMO.
update
Coolant system flowing properly
Car drives and sounds good
I washed the car
The bad part:
After a few minutes of driving, it has fuel cut and basically kills the car's drivability. I restart the car and it's good for ~ a minute, then fuel cut. I am replacing the LS1 water temp sensor as it is a legitimate possibility of causing this issue. I might pick up a fuel pressure gauge, but the awesome part is I swapped the fuel rails to fit the 911, better, so the schrader valve on the fuel rais is now facing the front of the 911. bah!
Anyways, onto some pics taken from a toaster:
before the wash, first time driving without a front plate and the bumper cover is pretty beat up from years of Chicago street parking, but the bumper plugs look good.
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Turbo offset & monster truck stance
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freshly washed and where it decided to take a break
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New GM temp sensor installed and no more misfires!
old vs. new sensor
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an idea of how useless my exhaust is
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photo of the exhaust, taken by Mr. Magoo
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Although it's something I probably wouldn't do(unless I experience an engine meltdown!), I have to admit that I'm loving the creative nature of this build! I wanted to bring up one thing that I don't think has been mentioned or discussed yet. Although this engine swap has dropped some weight out of the rear end, It probably has moved what weight is back there much higher up in the car. Going from a flat 6 to a V8 has got to raise the polar moment of inertia, and there for increase the possiblility of drop throttle oversteer, which our 996's are prone to in the 1st place!...not saying that this couldn't prove to be an entertaining by product of the build
, but would be interested to hear your thoughts on how the car has changed on the handling dynamics front White Out. I can't recall if PSM was an option in my99(I have it on my00), but if yours did have it, are you still able to run it?
Congrats, and great job on the build!
Thanks!
I don't have PSM. As an ex-Viper owner, it's a plus to me.
It may have raised the center of gravity, but I suspect that it wouldn't be noticeable. The heads are aluminum and the intake is plastic, and there isn't much in the heads for a SBC. Also, I had to remove the sound deading at the top of the engine bay to fit the LS1; cut the trunk, and remove the adjustable wing motor and engine bay fan. Realistically, it's probably a toss up.
As far as widowmaker characteristics, the low-end torque will easily spin the 295 tires where the G96 wouldn't break the 265 loose. So yes, at the track I am going to be very aware of snap oversteer. My torque figures are in the same range as a GT3RS4.0.
Here are some updated pics.
For some reason the exhaust looks angled down, don't worry, it's not. I still have to remove the residue from a sticker that was on the decklid.
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Well not for
failure
, just poor quality:
http://www.prweb.com/releases/2004/03/prweb109343.htm
There is a class action for everything!
This was an awesome science project and
super impressive
build work. Congrats and thanks for sharing it! Extremely interesting
Some recent updates:
1. Changed the coolant system layout a little:
- removed thermostat from electric water pump
- created a T so the coolant overflow directly feeds the coolant system by gravity vs. feeding off pressure.
It looks like crap, but will work for now:
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2. New tires came in!
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3. Created a new switch panel for engine control, starter, and coolant control. Replace the factory CD holder.
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when is the next YouTube clip...
if my engine ever goes down 1 of 2 things will happen.
A) I make a b-line for the GM dealer for a new Stingray (red with gun metal wheels and GT3 seats).
B) I put one of these Chevy engines in it.
I'm not sinking big bucks into another Porsche engine. Or I'll buy an air-cooled Carrera for very light driving..
nice build.
Most of you guys don't relieve that the lsx will shift above 8500 with not to much done to it. I use to shift at 7100 on my stock ls1 and now shift at 7600. I could/would spin it harder if i wasn't already over spinning my blower. I also make 1270hp on a 5.3 lsx truck block with blower on 87 octane.. So i guess we could do the match per liter on that.
If i ever have an issue with my motor, there are no questions what ill be putting in there. They are simply to cheap and to reliable not to do.
The 911 is nowhere near the power output of the Lambo, it's down 300hp. The 911 will be more peppy with the extra torque, but I don't think it will be fast.
On the highway it sits under 2000rpm, so fuel mileage should be pretty decent.
I ended up sending the LS1 water pump back. There is a shallow LS3 water pump en route.
I have to use spacers to make the LS3 water pump match the belt of the LS1 crank pulley & alternator, but it will still be 2" more shallow than the LS1 unit.
Here's a comparison of the two, LS3 on top. Note the depth of the pulley to the water outlet pipe:
yeah, that's not an issue at all... I put lsx motors in rx7's and old BMW 3 series all the time...
on the water pump, if you need dept, try a truck or fbody, they are all the same except for the top outlet, those are angled up instead of straight. Also, i think my electric pump was also thinner.. but I didn't like it keeping things cool for me.. but in beat the crap out of my car in 100 degree heat in Texas.
LS1 FD's are awesome and anything E30 is cool. I used to DD a mostly stock '72 2002.
The ls3 is the thinnest water pump (aside from the FWD applications); so I'm running that with some 1/4" spacers to fit the ls1 crank pulley. There is more than enough room to fit the ls1 pulley, but aesthetically I like the ls3 better.
Well you should make a kit for the 996/997 folks as it seems like there would be some amount of interest. Right now I can't see a lot of people paying $8k+ for one.
I see no reason to lie.. I have far to much important things then to make up wild stories on the internet.. I live i Houston.. If your in to power.. its here..its pretty much the place to be if your fast..
haha, im not worry one bit.. There are plenty of people that don't do there own work and as such, just go off what they read... Its really about understand what a motor wants, regardless of size or make. Hp is very simple, air in..air out.
Alright, time for an update.
So I decided to go with an LS3 water pump over the remote electric pump because I was getting fed up with the difficulties of the electric pump.
The LS3 pump pulley is much more narrow than the LS1 pump pulley. But the pulley is so narrow that the belt from the LS1 F-body crank pulley won’t touch it. Luckily the water pump on an LSx can be spaced out from the block. This is a great thing for me because my engine is mounted by the heads, so a flush water pump wouldn’t work.
I bought a .25” water pump spacer and found out this was the wrong length. So I started to do some research and it looked like a .75” spacer is what I needed. But there wasn’t much info out I started to ask vendors what they had and what they thought would work for me and I didn’t get much of a response. I went to eBay and started messaging vendors and finally was given some insight from someone (Steve) who produces spacers (yay!!!).
Steve, confirmed that I needed .75” spacers to make the LS3 pump fit on an LS1 F-Body and then he sent me dimensions of the spacers to ensure that they would clear my engine mount. This made life much easier than ordering, hoping it would fit, etc. I have to give some credit to Steve, it’s rare that a vendor will spend time helping a prospective customer. Not to mention he seemed generally interested in the 996 LS1 build.
If anyone needs some spacers for an LSx build, definitely check these out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSx-Billet-W...item33820ad552
The spacers arrived Friday and did a mock install Saturday night. My new hoses come in tomorrow. I still have to pick up an LS3 tensioner. Hopefully the new water pump set up should be operational this week. And if this works (which it should), this is a much more economical way to run a water pump on a Renegade swap (F-body LS1 crank pulley, Renegade alternator bracket, LS3 water pump & tensioner, Steve’s spacers @ $65, and 52.5” belt) vs. $1200 for the electric pump/mounts/f-logs/etc.
It’s a very tight fit getting the water pump on the back of the car and required more sheet metal cutting, but I feel it’s totally worth it. I cut the fittings on the LS3 pump to offer more clearance for the hoses. I also rotated the thermostat housing 180 degrees to clear the rear bumper bracket.
Steve’s spacer kit:
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Before:
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Midway:
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After:
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clearance between the engine mount and water pump:
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Over the past few days I installed the LS3 water pump.
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Steve’s mounts and gaskets placed the pump just far enough away from the engine mount and lined up the LS3 pulley with the LS1 F-Body crank pulley. I rotated the thermostat 180 degrees to clear the rear bumper.
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I had to re-route the hoses to the water pump, now there is a 1.5” hose and 1.25” hose vs. two 1.25” hoses. Somehow the heater hoses are the same dimensions for the 996 and LS3 (5/8 & 3/4).
I mounted the upper tensioner pulley and realized there is a very tight clearance between the belt and 1.5” hose coming off the thermostat. After installing the belt, I found that the belt slightly rubs on the hose. I am going to leave this as-is for now and let the belt notch out a groove in the hose. My schedule clears up in August, so then I will work on a spacer for the thermostat housing to clear the belt, but not run into the bumper beam.
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I read many different suggestions on belt length without power steering (usually 52.5”) and found the belt to be too short. It looks like the Renegade alternator mount moves the alternator to a different location than stock, even though to the eyes it looks the same. I ended up having to use a 56” belt.
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Now the car runs and has heat!!!!!! Woo!!!
The electric water pump dilemma added months to the build. If I was ever to do this again, I would cut more out of the back of the car from the get-go and run a mechanical pump.
For reference of what it looked like with the electrical pump:
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Keep an eye on the hose, doesn't take much of a cut to make them bust when pressurised. If you can get paper gaskets for the thermostat, might want try stacking them to clewr the belt. As the engine is revved the belt will move arpund and cut more into the hose than when only idling.
After driving the car around today in 80+ temps, lots of stop and go, it is not going to overheat again.
The car drives really nice. I don't have power steering or a/c and I do not miss them. The taller wheel/tire combo I have from running turbo wheels has done a great job at keeping the gearing more in order with the LSx cars, most street driving I keep it under 2k rpm. The cool part is a blip of the throttle and it's instant torque, no need to downshift. It's similar to my Viper now, no need to touch the throttle in stop and go, just release the clutch and there's enough low end torque to pull you along nicely.
I still have a redline of 4000rpm. I need to change over to a different type of GM throttle body to work properly with the 996 pedal and make some adjustments to the pedal. But for now, as a daily driver, 4000rpm is perfectly fine.
The E36 swaps are awesome. But yes, tons of work.
Yeah, I definitely will. Luckily, that part of the hose is over the thermostat neck, so it is moving with the belt when the engine flexes (which isn't much).
I'm working with a guy to build a billet spacer for the thermostat to raise it away from the belt, but not hit the bumper beam.
Definitely not plug & play. Basically an engine mount and trans bracket/flywheel/etc.
Wiring harness, cooling system, exhaust, intake, throttle control, cutting car up, etc is all on your own.
There's not enough room to add another spacer. The belt/hose rub is only a few mm off, so I'm going to have a spacer made for the thermostat housing to come out 1/4" or so.
me too. The engine mount is really nice and the KEP spacer is too.
Aside from the water pump spacers, it's all OEM GM equipment to use my set up. The Renegade mounts are really nice and I did find it to be a decent value for the standard $4k kit.
But their cooling systems are a complete nightmare, it's almost like Renegade doesn't know what they are doing with the cooling systems: all of their diagrams are backwards; wrong size hoses; clearance issues, they don't have proper flow for the overflow tank.
If anyone is considering a swap and wants to know ANYTHING about it, feel free to PM me. I am glad to give some insight on the info. Renegade is HORRIBLE at giving information about the swap, even after you buy it.
I did. It's above.
But a break down:
LS3 water pump & tensioner
LS1 f-body crank pulley
Renegade's alternator mount (comes with kit)
Steve's 3/4" water pump spacers
56" belt
1 1/4" hose
1 1/2" hose
5/8" hose
3/4" hose
I'll try to dig up pictures of the LS1 in the 318. Months of work then POOF destroyed in a wreck on track when a Morgan or some such English thing dumped oil...
56"
Oh that sounds horrible. I'm not sure how I would handle it if something happened to the car, I've put sooooo much time and effort into this thing. Seeing it destroyed would hurt a lot.
My first issue with the car since getting the car running. Toggle switch failure.
Drove the car about 50 miles today, all highway, no issues. There is a huge traffic jam on the highway, so I decide to take a back-way through the city at 5pm. It’s 80+ and sunny out. My fans are ran off toggle switches, so I turn the fans on when I get off the highway. Get home, fans wont shut off, and the toggle switch is in the off position. I flip the switch up and it falls back down. Great, a dead toggle switch. At least it failed in the ‘on’ position.
Tonight I go to swap it with the blank toggle that used to power the electric water pump. I swap the wires for the fans and. . . nothing. Two dead toggle switches, one on and one off.
toggle switch failure - YouTube
Now, here’s the part that kills me. The failed toggle in the off position ran the water pump. So the pump set up wasn’t the reason for the car overheating. It was the freaking $5 switch, which had failed.
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However, I'd say the real problem here is that you are running high-draw items like fans and water pumps through a toggle switch. Those items should be run through a relay that is controlled via the toggle switch.
I think it looks very nice. Plain sleeper look.
Yep, thats typical. Ive overlooked the simple solutions many times in my "mechanic hobby".
So you didnt use any of Renegades kit?
Yeah, I just bought a higher amp toggle. This was 20amp, for some reason I thought I bought all 30amp. blah.
Thanks, I'm keeping the exterior the way it is. Just planning on lowering the car. Since swapping the motor the rear of the car has lifted from a drop in weight. There is a ton of clearance. Also the taller tire on the turbo wheels really adds height to the car. It is nice driving around and not worrying about scraping anywhere.
Yep, never thought to look at the switch. Feel like an idiot.
I used renegades kit (engine mount, KEP trans adapter, alternator bracket), but didn't use their cooling system.
The new 30amp switch came in yesterday and I installed it (sort of).
The 30amp switch is literally double the weight of the 20amp and overall much more sturdy (20amp on top). I may replace all my switches with these.
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Here's my problem. Right now the only tools around me are two short screw drivers. The holes drilled in the carbon fiber are too small to fit the new switch so. . . it's looking real classy right now.
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Nope, just a switch.
The 30amp, while hanging, allows me to hold onto it and check the temp. It doesn't even get warm after 20 minutes of use. So I think I'm good with this switch, but we will see. A spare is in the center console, just in case.
Use a relay, seriously. It's not the current that's the problem, it's the inductive nature of the load. You can get relays whose contacts are rated to switch high-current inductive loads, but I don't know about toggle switches.
Remember V = L*dI/dT. V can easily get into the hundreds, perhaps even thousands of volts.
Seriously cool hack, overall! Now I'm wondering how much room there is in my 981's engine compartment.
No relays at this point. I was unaware of the extra load (note not an electrician), thanks for the heads up.
However, I am going to see how the 30amp holds up over the next few weeks and go from there. At this point I'm not really concerned with fire (or failure) from the temps of the wires/30amp switch. The wires/30amp switch aren't even warm after 20 minutes of running the fans. So I think I'm safe, but I'll keep everyone posted.
An LS1 fits in a 987, so it might work in a 981 (which would be freaking awesome).
Still don't understand what is with this manual intervention. I would just get a $5 temp sensor at Napa, plumb it inline, and hook it up to a relay and be done.
I'd rather be driving then monitoring and worrying I may miss looking at the gauge when I'm busy looking the the girls around me in traffic.
Today was the first real drive for the car, 180 mile round trip. 99% highway, 30 minutes of stop & go traffic, sunroof poped, windows cracked, and 85+ degree temps. Car did perfect and averaged about 22mpg. I think without the massive traffic jam, the mpg would have been significantly higher.
It's pretty simple; switch on for city driving, switch off for highway.
Long time since an update. The car has over 1000 miles since the swap and is doing great. I've been hashing out minor changes throughout this time, so far, so good.
The p-zero tires were old and pretty worn. They would track errywhere. I replaced them with some new sumitumos.
The ride height was killing me. The 911 sounded like a truck and looked the part. So I opted for some k-sport coilovers.
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stuck on the lift.
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off the lift
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295's on turbo wheels are flush
before:
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after:
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I raised the car a tiny bit and rolled the rear fenders. Driving for a few days, letting the coilovers settle, then re-adjusting.
coilovers make a world of difference on these cars....very nice upgrade
love the ride height, now you need to start remembering all the driveways in town you can and can't get in and out from. There are few business around me that have lost my business due to not being able to get into their parking lot LOL
Including my own driveway
I would love to hear back on your kSports in about a year from now. Besides the fact that they are generic and not really specifically tuned for the 996 specifically, I think a lot of others question their long term reliability. I've seen some prematurely blow out but we all know stuff made overseas do not have the best QC control so it's sort of a Russian rhoulette with some of these things. It's already been established that these along with other CO's from Taiwan and China do not use the best fluids and seals. But that doesn't mean it won't last the life of the owner or the car as some seem to be holding up so far.
IIRC, I believe there was another member that has had horrific experience with customer service and warranty work. I sure hope they have at least improved in these departments.
If I didn't have CO's, I might've taken a chance on these if they were cheap enough but now I think KSport is trying to get into the higher end car tuning products a well. Have you seen their BBK kit? Not sure if I'd pay or even trust a relatively new kid on the block with my life when it comes to something like braking duties.
Not directly bashing these but just saying some of these brands can often be a gamble at times.
Anywho, nice stance and the turbo wheels definitely look better and more flush with it lowered. I'm even surprised you could fit 295 back there with the turbo offsets. Glad you're not doing the 265 euro poke stretch thing back there. lol.
Same here on how they feel after a year! It's why I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet. I do have Friends that run them on their e36, e46 M3s and a couple of friends on their VW GTIs (mk3 and a mk6)... All swear by them and have been on them about 2-4 years now.... 2 of the 4 track their cars with them.
I've followed this for a long time and all I can say is - wow. I would probably never do this - because I don't have the time, skill, tools or know how. You've done a remarkable job. Keep it up.
I'll get into more detail on the K-sport's in a few days. Putting close to 1,000 miles on the car this weekend.
But off the bat, they make the car feel like a proper sports car IMO. Until the coilovers I could not figure out how the 996 ever competed with the Viper based on the ride. The 996 reminded me of my E36M3, a sports coupe.
Tonight I dialed in the front coilovers more and finally upgraded all my switches.
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Porsche is getting some love this week.
Today:
Car wash
Took the Porsche to get an alignment
Installed iPod hook up to factory stereo
Installed Porsche Roof Transport System that I've had for 9 months
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Removed front bumper to clean radiators . . . holy god
pulled the intake housings and crap immediately fell out
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since I don't have a/c and don't plan to in the future, I removed the condensors and found this:
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I ended up using a wire bristle brush for pet grooming to clean the radiators, then hosed them down for a long time (no final results pic)
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I got a new alignment on the car and set up for not having power steering. The car drives sooooooo much better now. Also, I'm moving, so car parts are in transition, it was easiest to slap the roof rack on the car instead of moving it around. In the midst of the move I've been driving all over the state and since Wednesday I've put close to 1,000 miles on the car with zero issues.
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Went to a friend's to drop the motor for the dead lifter. He suggested that we swap out exhaust manifold gaskets because that could make a similar sound. Swapped gaskets and the noise is GONE!! No need to drop the motor and replace parts. WOOOO!!!
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The car is for sale. A Viper drove by me today and I'm stupid for them, so I want one. I will put up a for sale thread soon. Asking $25k/best offer.
pic from last weekend at the big euro meet in San Diego
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I believe the GenII is the best for people who want to wrench on their machine. Engine and parts seems reasonable. The GenIII are super expensive.
I never rode in a GenII but they are bargain priced. can't go wrong.
I think the deal is to buy one before 2000 to get the forged internals but no abs..
I was literally walking home from work and it stopped me in my tracks. I knew at that second my affair with the 911 was over.
Thanks!
Yeah, I moved a few weeks ago.
The downside of loving cars is wanting to have a car that others' rave about. It requires short ownership time periods. With manual steering and the odd exhaust note, my 996 is very similar to my BMW 2002 in the fun department. Every time I get in it I have a huge smile on my face, even when doing mundane tasks.
But something about the Viper draws me in. I saw it at the '89 Detroit Auto Show as a kid and it was my favorite car for a long time, then two decades later I bought one. Somehow I've never lost the awe feeling of the Viper and I often regret selling my ACR.
On the topic of being stopped in my tracks while walking home, a 918 drove by last week. Now if someone could help me get the funds together for that, I would stay with a P car.
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The car is making the internet rounds, here are a few places it's popped up.
Bring a Trailer
http://bringatrailer.com/2013/10/18/...d-porsche-911/
Jalopnik
http://jalopnik.com/for-25-000-see-i...six-1448692371
Bloomberg:
996 on Bloomberg on Vimeo
Since my last post the exhaust leak ended up being a broken AIR delete plate on one of the manifolds. I can't bring myself to just repairing it. So the LS7 manifolds are going on the car and a new exhaust is being fabricated. My asking price for the car is. . . not going up.
No. I have no clue who tipped them off to my Craigslist listing. But not going to lie, it's pretty cool to have your car randomly pop up on national tv.
You've hit the jackpot of marketing. You might want to mention to the various publishers that you also have a Lamborghini and how this car compares to it so potential buyers know that you're not just blowing smoke.
I think this can help the sale. I know sites like Jalopnik often publish updates.
GLWS
Your car has turned into a celebrity. I would keep it until its starts having drug and alcohol problems. Then you can just send it off to a rehab
That's awesome though being on the news
GLWS
Thought that I would update the thread.
The car did sell, the new owner is still modding the car further and I have a replacement vehicle.
Supercharged '97 Viper GTS. Yes, there are more mods to come on this car.
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I've never seen a more campaigned car than this LS 996. Google is full of it being advertised and/mentioned on a at least a dozen car forums. Must have been a full time job selling this car. Nice Viper, by the way.
I haven't tried it in this car, but my last Viper ('99 ACR) could start in 4th. Hopefully the DR's on the back keep the power in check.
That it is. My last fill up was 16 gallons for 140 miles, and I didn't hit boost once. This car has custom gears, sticky tires and big injectors, not good for mpg.
City driving is well below 5mpg, highway is mid 20's; stock is 7-9mpg city and close to 30 highway.
The car is famous. The blog is still getting a TON of hits.
I was searching around the other day after another email asking if it was still for sale and found the Bloomburg clip.
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/upgra...hGYiOXCcg.html
Yeah, the car was sold.
Tach - tapped the LS1 ecu for signal
Water temp - requires adapter or re-tap LS1 head to fit 996 water temp sensor (VDO) and plug into 996 engine wiring harness (or tap the wire on the chassis side of the harness)
Oil pressure - requires adapter or re-tap LS1 head to fit 996 oil pressure sensor
Speedometer - did nothing
Volts - did nothing
Fuel - did nothing
It's a fun (and cheap) car to own/operate, gets over 30mpg on the freeway, and is quick. Bang for the buck, can't be touched unless you want to start off with a fox body Mustang.
Unfortunately this was a move based on multiple friends with Corvettes suggestions to try one out. The car isn't for me, so it will be going up for sale soon. Next up, another 996 or stock Viper, the supercharged car was waaay too much for a daily driver, but God it was a fun car.
I had a lightly modified '99 ACR for a daily a few years ago, then this 996 as a daily. They have their ups and downs. A gen1 Viper would take some serious devotion to daily, it has zero creature comforts.
Basically I'm in the air between rational and comfortable German vs. a completely irrational and uncomfortable American.
I'm with you - I don't exactly know why, but my Corvette would never be my DD.
I like the power the C5 puts down, and it does look good from the back, but the side view is kind of...melted. My C4 isn't a beauty queen, either - I think the C6 was the best looking Corvette since the split-window Stingrays.
My C7 has been to the dealer 5 times already for random stuff and i dont even DD it. Last weekend i put in the longer bolts so it took the ride hight down 2" in the back and 2 1/2 in the front and its still very comfortable to drive. It looks bitchin but the pcar is still my 1st choice for a DD.
Hate to bump this thread with new information. But the guy I sold the car to passed away from a crash in the bastard 996. RIP.
News article:
http://www.local10.com/news/driver-k...rdale/35079294
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here's a video of it after he changed the exhaust and got the throttle issues sorted out.
1999 Porsche LS1 996 (911) - YouTube
Skip to 1:15 if you want to hear the sound.
What a bummer - the dude clearly liked to drive fast, as evidenced in the test pull video, but that's still not the way I want to get my ticket punched.
It's easy to forget in cars that get up to - and blow through - 100 so easily how much damage you can do with a 3,000 pound object moving at those speeds...
I'll try to remember how this thread ended up the next time I get the urge to drop the hammer anywhere I might endanger anyone except myself...
Man that's just tragic. I have seen my share of fatalities over many years and they all make you think about what's important. This is typical for a tree/utility pole side impact. Really sad.
You and me both. Im going for the old age route if possible.
Unfortunately, you don't have to be going infinity when you hit the immovable object sideways. The cut-off b-pillar - from rescue cutting the roof off to try to save the guy, I guess - is sobering.
So, I broke my 996tt engine - the rest of the car is great. Insurance will total it and I am considering buying it salvage and doing the LS engine swap. Can you give me an idea of costs and difficulties? I am not the mechanic that you are, but I have a brother that is. I look forward to hearing of the end results - fascinating.
Depends on new or used engine, carb compliance, but low end would be 10k high end with new engine 17k or so. You can get stingy with it and save a couple of bucks., but that's probably a good starting point.
If you're doing all your own work, make your own engine mounting brackets and find a cheap LS motor, it could be done for around $5k. As far as the upper end, the sky is the limit.
For a 996TT, I'd look at an LS3 (or LS7) so you would have more power out of the box and potential to make even more. A KEP engine/trans adapter and have a machinist make you some custom engine mounts (head mounted). Run a C6 LS3/LS7 water pump. There is a lot of information on LS1tech from people doing swaps on 996s & 997s.
So as best I can make out, this all started because you were "scared of all the 3.4 failures; wanted something not boring for a cheap DD/winter car" and so you wouldn't be putting miles on the Lambo?
And I thought I was eccentric.
Your insurance company is going to cover your broken motor? Do you have an additional MBI policy? If so how much is an MBI on a 996 run? I have heard some insurance company's do this, but i have only dealt with warranty companies or extended warranty companies.
white out; Yeah, I don't have the most rational taste in vehicles. My current DD:
Well atleast you are honest about it! Lol! See you over on ls1tech....
5 grand would certainly be on the extreme low end of the conversion. After 20 ls1 swaps I have found that the little items add up to the cost of the big ticket items quickly. $50 and $100 items add up. Most all swaps I have ever done the goal was to improve the power and or the reliability of the car. I mostly use enginuity, but these endeavors aren't cheap at all.
With a turbo installing a stock ls1 would definitely be a step backwards in the power department, but the reliability and driveability would be better. At least an LS2 and better yet a twin turbo LS.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.