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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRear subframe bushing replacement
Leading reported evidence
Install on subframe and ready
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Poly bushings installed on subframe and ready to mount on car.
Leading evidence: 'Install on subframe and ready' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install on subframe and ready' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced both my rear subframes after breaking off one bolt in each (problem with driving a car for 20 years in the road salt of Chicago winters).
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have seen that insert - also made no sense to me so I replaced with genuine "tuning fork" arms on all four corners.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have PowerFlex plastic (purple road use), to replace all the rubber bushings.
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Suggestion
Interesting - the GT3 I read had solid bushings - did you replace with OEM just because of wear and tear?
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Suggestion · Original poster
Had the use a box knife to cut one rubber end cap off each of the old bushings, (the other end just pops off), in order to provide a surface for the female end of the extractor.
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T172408Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I'm in the process of disassembling the suspension on my '99 C2 in order to re-bush with poly type. For rear subframe, it appears the mounting is not a nut/bolt, but rather, a long body mounted stud with nut on the bottom. Is this correct? I can't locate/see bolt heads above without doing major disassembly.
Advice?
There are no corresponding fasteners inside the passenger compartment in the chassis. Based on that, I would think it is a stud somehow attached to the underside of the chassis. I've never tries to remove mine...
I replaced both my rear subframes after breaking off one bolt in each (problem with driving a car for 20 years in the road salt of Chicago winters). Bought the used on line for $60 each, I think Porsche wanted over $1,900@. There are three mounting points that are studs into the body with nuts to secure them. Don’t be surprised if the nuts are stuck on the studs and the studs back out of the body. Doesn’t really matter though.
Disassembly done; bushing removal next. After 140,000 kms they are pretty soft, the control arm bushings seem not bad overall, but will replace them anyhow since it's now apart.
Picture of the subframe out and the body mounted studs I was originally questioning about. Thanks again for the advice.
Watching and learning... I see from the parts breakdown schematics that the retaining studs are a separate pieces P/N
99906110209 & 99906110301
and can come out like
Dharn55
commented (if one is not careful). I also noticed that Porsche doesn't sell the bushings alone and it's a package deal with the whole subframe assembly (
99633105502 / 99633105602)
for the $2k price. Can't wait to see the end result of the project.
I've seen a few posts on bushing removal using heat and in worst cases: flames and grinders. A bit worrisome given our lovely cast aluminum subframe components. I tried the old threaded rod with sockets and pipe and it work beautifully. Had the use a box knife to cut one rubber end cap off each of the old bushings, (the other end just pops off), in order to provide a surface for the female end of the extractor. So in my case, no flames, grinding or power tools needed.
I have PowerFlex plastic (purple road use), to replace all the rubber bushings. So far, the thing that seems most odd to me, is the few options for the Thrust Arm forward body attachment. It's a ball joint. There's one offering to put in a solid bushing which makes no sense to me given the range of travel it does, and the thin cast aluminum "pitch fork" attachment at the other end to the LCA. Other than that, I've seen an adjustable arm from Stromski which is similar in pricing to the cast aluminum OEM, so maybe go for that.
I have seen that insert - also made no sense to me so I replaced with genuine "tuning fork" arms on all four corners.
PowerFlex seems to be the most logical solution for the subframe though.
Poly bushings installed on subframe and ready to mount on car. Actually I found that the crossmember needs to be in place as I wasn't able to get the bolts through the mounting lugs with the side frames in place on the car.
I can't find the torque values for mounting stud nuts or the cross member nut/bolt in my Bentley manual. Appreciate any info or sources.
Looking at my Torque spec book (page 120 & 121) with different description described looks like...
Cross member 81.5ft
Rear axle side section stud is 34ft
" " " Nut is 81.5ft
The Knowledge Gruppe has a torque value book that every DYI guy should have.
Did you paint or powder coat (looks awesome)
