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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH17-20 days away, should I disconnect the battery?
Leading reported evidence
Check voltage and get all historical data
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Suggestion
For example, if you are within 30 ft of the car you can check your voltage and get all historical data on your phone and know the status of your battery.
Leading evidence: 'Check voltage and get all historical data' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check voltage and get all historical data' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
The 1st thing I did to my (new to me) 2000 C4 Cab was install an quick disconnect lead to the battery for 1 of 4 Battery Tenders that I own.
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Suggestion
You should be ok, but a $25 battery tender (most autopart houses) with a quick disconnect which allows you to close the hood, is inexpenive insurance.
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Suggestion
what's easier, installing a battery tender or CTEK (recommended) once and simply plugging
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Suggestion
Or if you are with the car you can do some testing by turning on the Stereo or other electronic and see the effect on the real time voltage screen.
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Check voltage and get all historical data
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
For example, if you are within 30 ft of the car you can check your voltage and get all historical data on your phone and know the status of your battery.
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Outcome without a verified action link
Pretty much the only difference between locking and not locking the car is the drain can be 750ma higher for the first hour, after that there is no difference..
My car often goes 2 weeks without being driven. When I remember, I plug in to battery tender. Many times, I forget. I always lock the car though. My battery is 2018 Porsche battery..
If you're worried about it, a battery tender is your best bet - it'll keep the battery fully charged, but won't over charge it. Always fully close all compartments and lock the car (goes "to sleep" and uses the least amount of power). When closing and locking you should get two flashes of your directional lights and no "beeps" (weak horn sound) if you do get beeps, something is not closed, and the system will not "go to sleep"/ into low power consumption mode.
what's easier, installing a battery tender or CTEK (recommended) once and simply plugging
it in or unplugging it ?
CTEK has some semi-permanent attachment leads, I just leave the charging device on the ledge by the spare
I never lock my car despite it always being garaged, but I always pop the frunk when I park it
if, after a couple of days if I haven't driven it, I connect the CTEK
I got caught with a low / dead battery once and was kind of a PITA
tons of threads here on dead batteries and frunk access, alleviate the problem once
when the time comes, you want your car to start
The 1st thing I did to my (new to me) 2000 C4 Cab was install an quick disconnect lead to the battery for 1 of 4 Battery Tenders that I own.
The Porsche, my BMW 335i and my Toyota MR2 Spyder are all hooked up to Tenders. I've also got a dual battery Tender for my F250 but it's not hooked up right now.
Hi All, we are a site sponsor and we have a very cool NEW Product that is really beneficial for eliminating those dead battery situations, and also at allowing you to really see what your battery is doing. The product called the Battery Tracker. Its a small Bluetooth device that attaches to your Car's Battery in a two minutes, and then sends all your voltage and battery performance data to your Phone and the Battery Tracker App we developed. So it a massive help in eliminating dead batteries but does much more than that. The Battery Tracker can be seen HERE...
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It does these things...
1- You can see your past 5 minutes Real-Time voltage on your phone without ever needing a Multi-meter, or needing to access your battery, or look at your Cars Instrument Cluster. You can even do this from OUTSIDE your Garage and being up to 30 ft away from the Car. For example, if you are within 30 ft of the car you can check your voltage and get all historical data on your phone and know the status of your battery. Or if you are with the car you can do some testing by turning on the Stereo or other electronic and see the effect on the real time voltage screen.
2- It also saves 31 days of historical voltage in an easy to read graphic page... For example this means you will see every start attempt, every driving event (since your voltage goes up when driving/charging), you will see how long you drove for, you will see how fast your voltage goes down while the car is in storage or sitting for a few days and know how long your car can sit before over-discharging the battery. You could see if a new accessory is drawing down the battery faster because the graph timeline for each day will show the amount of discharge.
3-You will get warnings sent to your phone if the battery voltage is going too low. You can set at what voltage you want the warning sent to your phone.
4- Last it offers a Cranking Test and Charging Test to inform you if you voltage is going low on Cranking or if you Charging System is not charging. So it takes all the tedious tasks of checking and tracking voltage and makes it so simple that you don't even have to watch your battery... just look at the App on your phone and have all the data there.
Below are some screenshots then a video. ON this screen shot is the Main screen showing 5 minutes of real-time voltage. I had the Car running... then turned it off and you can see the voltage settling back down... no need for a Multi-meter, the graphic is on your phone and seeing the live voltage changes.
ON this screen shot below it is the Historical Data. I can see that Car Battery was sitting at 13.2v all day then I started it and went for a drive around 2:30pm... I stopped for a short time around 3:15pm, you can see this because the voltage went down.. and then I started the car and drove again... then stopped the car at about 4pm and did not drive it again. You can see the voltage is now in a higher state of charge after my drive. When you slide your finger on the screen a RED LINE appears and shows the exact voltage, and time of day. So you can see the accurate voltage at any time over 31 days. So it very comprehensive and beneficial information if you are interested in this type of Data, and it make it all very easy to see what your car is actually doing.
Battery Tracker can be seen HERE...
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...ker-lead-acid/
You Tube
Just to clear up a few misconceptions of the "sleep mode" of the 996 on the forums, it seems to be a consensus that not locking your car will cause the car not to go into the "sleep mode" This is not the case.
When the car is turned off and key removed the system will power down to about 900ma in a matter of seconds, then after a few minutes will power down to about 750ma, then after about an hour, will power down to about 30ma, then will remain there for 5 days (or 120hrs), then if key has not been turned on will go into "deep sleep" which will turn off radio control and power down to 5-10ma.
If the ignition is turned off and key removed and car locked,the system will power down to 750ma in a matter of seconds and will power down to 30ma in a minute or so, then if the ignition is not turned on within 5 days (120 hrs) will go into "deep sleep" and turn off radio control function and power down to 5-10ma.
Also if they key has been removed and the radio (CDR-220 ect) has been turned back on, it can remain on for up to 1 hour then will automatically be turned off.
4. Energy-saving mode active
In order to keep "breakdowns" resulting from an empty battery to a minimum, the radio receiver, which
draws a high closed-circuit current, is switched off in the alarm system control module after a certain time in
addition to switch-off of the other loads.
The radio receiver is switched off if the ignition is not switched on again within five days (120 h OFF
time).
The radio receiver is switched off independently of the locking condition of the vehicle.
A locked vehicle can be unlocked with the vehicle key. (This does not reactivate the radio receiver).
In the case of vehicles for the English and Belgian markets, it must be borne in mind that the alarm
system is not switched off. In order to avoid triggering the alarm, the vehicle key with valid
transponder must be turned in the steering lock within the vehicle-entering delay of 10 seconds. (This
also applies if the vehicle was parked unlocked for longer than five days due to the "passive arming"
function (automatic arming of the alarm system 30 seconds after the vehicle is left with the ignition key
removed; the central locking system is not activated in this case) that is in use for the Belgian market.)
If the radio receiver has been deactivated, it can be reactivated only by switching on the ignition again.
The switch-off time is reset if the ignition is switched on within five days, i.e. the system does not enter
energy-saving mode.
If a valid radio command is recognised within the idle period (terminal 15 off), the switch-off time is
not reset.
Pretty much the only difference between locking and not locking the car is the drain can be 750ma higher for the first hour, after that there is no difference..
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.