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YOUR RESEARCHTips for caliper bolt removal?
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Replace few years ago
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Verify which fastener you have - the 996 caliper bolt fastener changed a few years ago.
Leading evidence: 'Replace few years ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace brake caliper fastening screws' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use anti-seize on just about every bolt I ever remove and reinstall.
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Suggestion
"Note: replace the brake caliper fastening screws after each removal" - 46 50 19 - Removing and installing the front brake disk
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Suggestion
Also doesn't the factory manual call for the bolts to be replaced during a brake job?
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Suggestion
Buddy, a Ford drag racer, and frequent pad change guy had a caliper bolt back out on his drive home from track.
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Suggestion
If you're going to be doing rotors, you definitely want an impact driver for removing the rotor set screw...even on a California car, these things strip out all the time.
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2001 996 C4, I�m going to tackle the brakes (pads, rotors, brake lines as needed, fluid) next week. I�ve done brakes on dozens of cars in the past and have read up in these. I keep seeing people having the caliper bolts break and then dealing with that.
Any tips to not not having them break or is it just luck of the draw on it they have seized or not? I have a well stocked shop with most tools, impacts, torches, magnetic bolt heater etc.
Hoping to to get some words of wisdom.
You shouldn't have any issues because the car is not that old. However, if it's an mid-west or east coast car and driven on salted roads all bets are off. If you think they are not going to come out make a mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Spray the threads a few times the day before and just before you try to remove them. This mixture works pretty well because the acetone is very thin and it will seep into the tiniest of spots pulling the tranny fluid with it. The acetone evaporates very quickly leaving the tranny fluid behind.
Verify which fastener you have - the 996 caliper bolt fastener changed a few years ago. The old one required a 6mm hex driver, the new part uses a Torx T55 driver. If you ordered new caliper bolts and have original parts on the car, you may need both.
I have never had issues breaking the caliper bolts loose on my 996 (or previously on my 986)...the bolts are micro-encapsulated and shouldn't seize.
I did brakes last year and the bolts came off no problem, they were 10mm hex not 6mm though. The new bolts were the Torx version.
To the OP, I would suggest using a dental pick or something similar to clean out any grime and grit in the recesses of the bolts. The deeper you can get the driver to seat in the bolt will help your odds.
If you're going to be doing rotors, you definitely want an impact driver for removing the rotor set screw...even on a California car, these things strip out all the time. Once they strip, the quickest removal method is a carbide bit in your hand drill.
A GREAT removal tool if they strip is a left-hand-twist carbide bit in your hand drill. Once the bit grabs into the stripped set screw, it magically backs out. Best trick ever.
Prep with your favorite penetrant a day or two in advance as others have said. Frequently an impact wrench is better for these things. With a big lever you can twist the head of the bolt right off, but with an impact wrench you're more likely to spin the bolt out cleanly.
When it all goes wrong, try this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ting-hole.html
Also doesn't the factory manual call for the bolts to be replaced during a brake job?
Wouldn't be a bad idea as they aren't that expensive - IMO don't cheap out on brake stuff
Buddy, a Ford drag racer, and frequent pad change guy had a caliper bolt back out on his drive home from track. Never replaced bolts. States that close to a dozen times he reused bolts.
Once or twice reuse for street. 12 times no.
For me, when I ordered new pads and rotors I added the bolts. Cheap insurance and hey, its a Porsche not a Ford.
Confirmed from manual - replace
M12 x 1.5 - front and rear x 2 per caliper - torque to 63ft-lb (85Nm)
From factory manual:
"Note: replace the brake caliper fastening screws after each removal" - 46 50 19 - Removing and installing the front brake disk
^^That's^^ more so Stealerships can ream you for the new bolts and add a little more to their bottom line than anything else.12 changes? Eh, that might be a little much...If you're really worried about the caliper bolts backing out on you put a little green or blue Loctite on them. Also be careful not to cross thread them when you re-insert...it's not particularly difficult to do - steel bolts do a number on aluminum calipers very quickly (you only have to ruin the first one or two threads to screw yourself over). For this reason, start the bolts by hand and make sure they're catching threads before you put a wrench on them, then torque to spec.
85Nm on an M12x1.5 bolt is not torque to yield.
If the tool grips the head properly and threads as well as the surface coating are fine I reuse them.
Backing out is a result of not torqueing them properly and has nothing to do with new vs. reused or tty or not for that matter.
Loctite and such prevent bolts backing out but the connection is compromised way before the bolt visibly starts backing out.
Just a well meant FYI: Using anti-seize changes/lowers the friction between thread of bolt and hole/nut and should be accounted for. If not you end up with higher bolt loads that are equivalent to overtorqueing a bolt.
Thank you for all of the suggestions. Still haven�t gotten to it, life keeps getting in the way. Maybe later this week. I did buy new bolts with the rest of the components, so those will be replaced.
I didn't have any trouble with my bolts, but my car is originally a California car and I don't drive it in the winter. I bought new bolts because the manual says to and I don't know why Porsche recommended it, but it must be a good reason. The whole "charge me more when they do the job" doesn't really hold water because they're like 8 bucks. Heck, they could charge more for the brake pad sensors and i'd have to pay it because I'm weird about having the car work correctly.
I�ve never had a problem getting the bolts out but a heck of a lot of problems putting them back in, specifically stripping out the aluminum threads on the uprights. Not cross threading, just having the aluminum threads give up. They are probably good for 2-3 times max. If you still have good threads on your wheel carrier, I strongly suggest getting a set of
These
before it�s too late.
Finally got a chance to tackle the rear today. Couldn�t be easier. My car has never been driven in winter and was always dealer maintained, the condition of the fasteners etc reflect that. Caliper bolts came right out without issue using my impact driver, I ordered the new ones when I bought the pads and rotors, so new ones went in.
Thanks for the advice. It�s really an easy car to work on.
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