Programming Key

Purchased a 2000 a couple of weeks ago but they only had one key. Would like to get another programmed. Can a used key transponder be reprogrammed to my car? Ill have to get a new blank cut but I have found one on ebay and the seller states that all the innards are in the key and it works on their current vehicle. Thanks!

Bring your car and $500 to your nearest dealer.

Exactly what Im trying to avoid!

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I think transponders are one-time programmable, and only Porsche can do it. Our 2002 came with one key (who takes the other one?), and it was worn and cracked over the button. We got a new key (transmitter, head, transponder, blade) from dealer $347.94 plus $135 programming for $482.94 total except tax. New key is nice but not impressive like you would expect for a Porsche.

Sorry...dealer only. And I do not think you can program a transponder pill that is already programmed. Remember, it is the car that gets programmed to the key and you have to have the key immobilizer number to do it.

Ok, thanks

It's only possible to reprogram a car to a key if you have the original swing tag with the code on it. Dealership only activity

If it helps, I followed a recent thread here. Took a picture of my key and ordered one from Keys in the Post. Fit was perfect. About $27 USD. Purchased a Porsche fob with pill (flashlight but no door unlock function) - $40 from 5150 Motorsports, metal key slipped and locked right in perfectly. Now I have to go to dealer. I got a quote of "about $90 if you dont need anything else". Hope to go next week. So I am hopeful I have a nice backup key for about $157 USD. I have to go and bring title. We will see....

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Do you have the code for the fob/pill?

Not exactly sure what you mean. I have the original packaging but dont recall a code. Do I need some sort of code for the dealer to program it to the car?

You need this

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I believe you're exactly right. I've experience this personally. Not just with Porsche, but with others that have stricter security policies regarding keyfobs.

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Hmmm....thanks for the info. My fob from 5150 definitely didn't come with that - is it possible that is only needed with the remote keyless entry functions? This is what I purchased: https://www.5150motorsport.com/light...37-041-01.html My apologies to OP if I'm hijacking this thread.

With a laser cut key you will be able to unlock the door, but that is all. You will have to transfer the guts of a working key to that head, circuit board AND RFID transponder pill as well as a key blade.

Got ya. In all reality it looks like I would just want a valet key. Something that will unlock manually and start the car should I happen to misplace the key I have. The one I have right now doesn't remote lock/unlock even after replacing the battery and manually unlocking/locking does not bother me. I found a locksmith in my town that programs vehicle keys and emailed him asking if he can do a 2000 Porsche, he responded what model and not a simple no, so fingers crossed that will work out.

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Ahhh, so it appears I purchased a fob that does not have the "pill"? I thought it included the pill that could be linked to the car to enable me to start it. That sucks, I guess I threw away $40, my bad. Glad I saw this thread before I hit the dealer...

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A valet key also has an RFID transponder pill in it. Mine does and it starts the car. Simply put, a laser cut key will open the door but will not start the car. I highly doubt a local locksmith can do the programming of the key to the Porsche immobilizer. As said, it is a dealer only proposition. And to program a key, you have to have the key code to program it to the immobilizer. And, I think if recollection serves me, you can only program up to 5 keys, then the immobilizer is dead.

DBjoe996 So basically, and correctly me if Im wrong, all you need to start the car is the laser cut key and the RFID pill that is coded to the immobilizer (thats all that a valet key is correct)? The pill is passive and does not require power so theoretically you could set your coded pill in the car and have a laser cut blade with no head and start the car? Im just trying to wrap my head around how it all works and find it interesting.

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That is an interesting idea, but of course it defeats the anti-theft purpose of the transponder. And maybe system requirements that the transponder be brought in and out of range for each start.

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The transponder pill from your non-functional remote and the key blade can be transplanted into your brand new fob with the remote unlocking feature. No locksmith required for that part.

DBjoe Yes that would defeat the anti-theft purpose of the pill, was just an thought as to how the pill communicates with the car and how it all works. Hell you could have the pill in a key chain and a cut blade and it would still start the car, right? Interesting thought on having the transponder in and out of range for each start, but if you left your keys in the car all the time it would start every morning right? It seems I read somewhere the transponder uses a rolling code, every time its used a new code is used. Ive always had older cars that don't have RFIDs in the keys so I find this all very interesting and like learning about new things (especially when they are Porsche things)!

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You made a good point I think it would start if the key was left in the ignition all the time. There must be some distance requirement for the transponder, and maybe position. You could take it out of the key head and experiment, and knowing the results would show if it could be put on a keychain, glued behind the dash, etc.

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Funny you mentioned glued behind the dash. I was just reading through a different thread and the guy was listing the cost of key parts, for transponder pill he had "found behind dash - free"

Have the same problem as the OP. Just bought a 2000 C4 Cabriolet w/only 1 key. Will probably just bite the bullet and get a new one from the dealer (or may get 2 new keys since the old one may die soon anyway).

Several times when I bought a car from a dealer ,, that had only 1 key,, a few weeks later a second key showed up in the mail that ad been "found" in the wrong folder.. They do it in case the financing falls apart and you don't want to give the car back.. Twice they found them when I went back and made them pull the folder on my car..

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When something fell between the console and seat in my Jaguar XJ it disappeared and could not be retrieved. Once I had the seat full forward and reached my hand all the way in and found many interesting items including a brand new remote/key! At purchase I received two remotes and one valet key, so with the new one had four keys total. When I traded it in I wonder if all those keys disappeared except the oldest remote? Seems like purchasers of used vehicles only get one worn out remote.

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Just confirmed this cost w/my local dealer. In my case, $383 plus tax for the key and about $120 (for an hr shop time; does it really take an hr to do it?) to reprogram the key. $503 plus tax. WTF's up w/that? I knew that parts/service for my new to me 996 would be expensive (I already own a BMW & MB as well) but what they're asking for a key is pretty f*cking outrageous by any standard. Going on a trip in a few weeks and want to explore some options b4 paying this. Won't get it done until I get back in any event. May also want to get a new transmitter head for my existing key (didn't ask how much that cost but probably not much less than the whole key itself) because the existing 19 yr old one doesn't look/operate all the great (when I lock the car sometimes it beeps and sometimes it doesn't but it always give me a double beep when I unlock the car w/the key). Not sure if that's a problem w/the key or the car. We'll see . . .

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As a general statement, arming the alarm does not provide an audible response (horn beep) unless there is a fault such as door open, hood open, glove box open. Here's what is said about a double beep: Fault indication A double horn signal during locking indicates a defect in the central locking or alarm system. Have the defect remedied at an authorized Porsche dealer.

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Ok, thanks for the info. Generally, no beep when locking but it has beeped ONCE doing that a couple of time. I usually get a single beep when locking my other cars but not beep for the 996. Got it. As for the double beep, I only get the double beep when unlocking, not locking the car. So, I don't think there's a defect based on your reference above.

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Page 22 of the 2002 996 owner's manual states upon locking emergency flashers double, and unlocking single flash. Mine does that sometimes, but far more often when locking no sound or flash, and unlocking two beeps of a horn. So you and I have the same symptoms, and clearly there is a fault even though the double beeps happen when unlocking and not locking as the owner's manual states. I tried to find a pattern when lights would properly flash and out of 44 lock-unlocks it only flashed (worked properly) 6 times. I didn't find any pattern of time of day or bright sun or shade, it is apparently random. When lights flash (work properly ) dash LED has about 10 seconds of rapid flashes, then settles down to 1 flash per second. I haven't yet observed how dash LED operates when fault is present. Supposedly if a door or compartment is open the horn beeps once during lock. Ours doesn't do that so maybe all sensors are being properly set. When at the dealer for major service they said our horn had a problem, and I noticed sometimes when unlocking door with key the alarm goes off. I think we should be able to unlock door with key when alarm armed and have 10 seconds to put key in ignition and turn. So maybe our faults are the system is detecting an intermittent horn or intermittent wire related to driver side door lock.

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OIC. With my other cars, I generally I get 1 beep when locking and 2 beeps when unlocking which led me to believe that everything was fine, except that I wasn't always getting the single beep. I haven't even noticed the lights flashing at all. So, I guess there is a problem of some kind. Thankfully it doesn't interfere w/normal operation of the car. Sounds like something only a dealer can properly diagnose/fix but I'm taking it into my indie shop (the same one that services my BMW & MB) for an oil/filter change and a general inspection in a couple of days and will ask him to check it out and tell me if he thinks it's something he can address. If not, I'm just going to let it go for now. OBTW, I now remember that when I was buying the car, the sales person had a problem raising the roof to prove that it was operating properly. He apparently kept pushing the button on the key which (according to him) activated the alarm system which prevented the roof from operating but he really was NOT familiar w/the operation of the car and I didn't trust everything he said. Is this something that you're familiar w/that may be related to this beep/double beep issue? So far, the roof goes up and down fine when I turn on the key and start the car. I am still planning to buy a 2nd key which will require me to take it into a dealer get it programmed and if/when I do that I can ask them to check the operation of the key/alarm system to see if they can quickly diagnose what's going on but, unless it's an operational problem w/the car (which prevents me from opening/closing the doors/roof and starting the car), I'm not inclined to spend a lot of time/$ to fix it.

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The problem we have is without a clear signal the alarm is set we don't know the doors are locked and vehicle secure against theft. A few times after being parked all day I come up to the car and the door is unlocked! This is because the remote range is pretty short (both new key and new battery in old key), there is no clear signal to say vehicle was or was not locked, and I walked away mistakenly thinking the vehicle was secure. Yes please show your indie and the dealer how when you remote lock your vehicle it doesn't flash as per p.22 in the owner's manual. They will have no doubt there is a fault and if they can quickly diagnose it great, if not myself or someone on this forum will eventually figure it out. My clues right now are intermittent horn and intermittent key unlock driver's door and alarm immediately goes off when I should have 10 seconds to put key in ignition and turn. Transiting cabrio top on a 2002 requires handbrake to be set and moving less than 3 mph. So I can click handbrake to first setting and creep up our driveway and close the top at the same time, rather than waiting until parked. There is a mod (and I think standard in later years) that will allow us to transit top while driving up to 35 mph. There may be a mode of operation with the remote where the button is pushed a number of times or held down and all windows and top open, I have seen that in other vehicles and never used it.

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Ok, I just read part of the manual for my 2000 C4 pertaining to the operation of the Central Locking System and the alarm (pgs 20-22) and did a basic function test of the system using the key. Here's what I found: 1) The doors do not lock automatically as they "should" either after driving a certain speed or after the car is turned off but the doors can be programmed NOT to lock automatically, so I don't know if this is a problem or not pg 22. 2) The doors can be locked w/a single press of the key and the alarm is activated as indicated by the flashing red light on the dash. During this test, the car did not beep when I pressed the key just once. See #7 below. 3) The doors can be unlocked w//another single press of the key. The alarm is deactivated (the flashing red light goes off) and the car beeps twice; the manual that a fault is indicated w/a double beep while locking (not unlocking) on pg 21. 4) The light for the Central Locking Switch (CLS) on the dash goes on when the car is started and stays on until the car is turned off; the light should go on when used to lock the car and go off when used to unlock the car per pg 21. 5) The CLS switch will lock and unlock the car,even though the switch light is always on. The doors cannot be opened from outside when locked and a double pull of the door handle inside is required to open the door per pg 20 6) When the car is locked w/the CLS switched and the door is then unlocked either w/the switch or by double pulling the inside door lever, the car will double beep; just like it does when unlocked w/the key. 7) The emergency flashers do not flash twice upon locking or once upon unlocking per pg 21. 8) The single beep I've heard may be due to pressing the key twice while locking the car; doing this is supposed continuously illuminate the flashers for about 2 secs and result in single beep per pg 21. No continuous light seen, just the single beep. 9) The roof works when the engine is on and the car is parked. Actually is roof is balking a bit but that's another issue. I would never try to open/close the roof while moving. So, that's not an issue for me. These are all of my observations about the key & CLS that I can recall right now. Obviously, there's a problem and I'm thinking this is something I should just talk w/the dealer about it. My indie shop does not specialize in Porsches (mainly BMW/MBs) and I don't think he'd be able to deal w/it. So, no point wasting time/$ asking him to look at it. There is a Porsche specialist shop (Kahlers in Dublin, CA) that might be able to deal w/it but Kahler's is no closer to me than my local dealer. Also, since ONLY the dealer can program the 2nd key I want and I have to go to them for that anyway, it would save time just going to them to deal w/both the key and the locking system issues which are obviously connected. So, I'm going to cancel going to my local shop and just let the dealer diagnose the problem. Will update this report as info becomes available.

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Many locksmiths can replicate the laser cut portion of the Porsche, but they can't replicate the encoding on the RFID pill. Don't waste you money buying used keys on eBay. If I'm not mistaken the RFID component in the keys are passive, but rely on the RF signal from the car to "energize" the component in order for it to communicate the proper rolling code to the ECU. It's kind of a simple, brilliant little device that's hard to beat. You'd have to be a serious computer hacker/thief to beat it. Therefore, my best advice is to contact the dealership and get a backup keyfob and have them make you a valet key. Valet keys are cheap, but the full keyfob/laser cut key assembly will cost you between $400 - $500.

There is very little choice except to pay the stealer. In my case, they really stole from me. It was $900 when all is said and done for one key.

Went to a different Porsche dealer in my area today and got good news about the key. This dealer quoted me "only" $130.16 for a key cut to my VIN and only $24.25 for the remote fob for the key. Total of $154.41 (plus tax) for 1 key or 308.82 (plus tax) for 2 . The other Porsche dealer I went to quoted me $383 for just 1 cut key and remote fob. WTF!!!??? This pricing is comparable to Sunset Porsche in Oregon which provides discounted pricing for parts online. On top of that a Service Advisor at the same shop that I went to today said that they "only" charge $187 to program a key and will NOT charge me extra to program 2 keys at the same time!!! So, it'll cost less than $500 to buy/program 2 keys w/this dealer compared to $500+ for just 1 key w/the other dealer. What's up w/that? The dealers are only about 30 miles apart and about the same distance from me each way. On the other hand, the BAD NEWS was that it would cost $210 to just "diagnose" the problem w/my Alarm/Central Locking System and there's no way to know how much it'll cost to fix until they figure out what the problem is. They won't sell me a key til I get the new reg for the car, which won't be for at least 2-4 weeks and I'll be on travel for a couple weeks during that time. So, it'll have to wait til I get back.

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That is certainly not Carlsen Porsche

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Walnut Creek.