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YOUR RESEARCHOil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
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Replace sending unit
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Replaced the sending unit today, no more bouncing!
Oil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace sending unit' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check connections' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I was able to get it tightened from the underside but you need your ratchet in reverse for it to tighten as you're upside down.
Oil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
Use 3/8" ratchet and a short (3"?) extension
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I used a 3/8" ratchet and a short (3"?) extension with the 19mm crowsfoot.
Oil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
Use angle grinder
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Oil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
Check connections
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Suggestion
First check connections, then swap/repl the sender as it has a expansion tube, and some small bits in there that can jog if it comes apart.
Oil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
Replace wires and bob's your uncle
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Suggestion
Pop off the two wires (they can't be confused since they have different sized spade connectors), crack the seal with a 3/8" ratchet and 19mm crowsfoot, remove it by hand, replace it, tighten to spec, replace the wires and bob's your uncle.
Oil Pressure gauge - does yours bounce on bumpy roads?
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When idling our needle will be above "1" and bounces upwards, and I was wondering if at idle oil pressure should be steady. Haven't noticed it bouncing when off idle but will take a closer look.
Not that I've noticed, but I will pay attention this week and see... Lots of construction on the short commute to work so quite bumpy, even with reduced tyre pressures...
There are two leads to the oil pressure sender. The male blades are attached to the sender on threaded posts with very small nuts. The wires have female fittings. If any of those pieces are loose, you could get weird behaviors.
Sending unit internals can cause this too. First check connections, then swap/repl the sender as it has a expansion tube, and some small bits in there that can jog if it comes apart. Mine was rock stable as well.
I fiddled with what I think was the connector before I left for work. Coming home it barely bounced, maybe one needle thickness every once in a while.
Coming home from mtg tonight, noticed it bounced a little when NOT under load, until it warmed up, then no bouncing.
Hm, odd, will still check the post on the sending unit when I have time.
Anyone have a pic of exactly where it is on the engine? My brain needs pics...
Not an awesome picture, but the only one I have handy:
Conventional wisdom has you coming in from the wheel well, removing the coil heat shield, and approaching the sensor from below. However...I find it easier to come in from the top through the engine bay. With the right crows foot wrench (ground suitably thin), it is a 15 minute job. Pop off the two wires (they can't be confused since they have different sized spade connectors), crack the seal with a 3/8" ratchet and 19mm crowsfoot, remove it by hand, replace it, tighten to spec, replace the wires and bob's your uncle.
Sneaking in between the 12v+ box and the ac/ps hoses:
Thanks for the help everyone!
I have a set of metric crow foot wrenches and a oil pressure sending unit on order. Plan on replacing them this weekend along with a ton of suspension components.
I'll let you know if that fixes it.
I've mentioned this before, but one thing to keep in mind is the thickness of your 19mm crowsfoot. It needs to fit between the canister and the head. I had to do some grinding to mine to make it fit. That took longer than the job itself.
Glad it was an easy fix, mine doesn't bounce around but it completely flatlines on the bottom for a minute or two and then pins itself back up to the top. I Keep forgetting to tell the shop as it's been going on for at least five yrs.
There have been multiple revisions of the unit so worth replacing. I was about to do mine until just as maintenance until I found my 19mm crows foot is closed and too thick.
So I have to buy another one cut it up and make it thinner - gah annoying
"I found my 19mm crows foot is closed and too thick. "
I'd like a pic of that socket ? Never seen Crows foot closed.
I've found my Snap On 19mm is thin enough to use w/o modification.
Cheap on ebay. 15 No ship charges.
I don't think that will work, since you need to slide it in from the side. I have some cheap regular crows foot sockets from Amazon, Tekton or some other brand. Once ground thin enough, it worked great.
"custom" 19mm crowsfoot:
Yep correct - mine didn't work as they are slightly closed I have to buy another set or modify the ones I have.
I have measured the sender there is about 8mm of clearance required - my set is 10mm and closed.
Did you just use a grinder to cut it down?
Thanks Mike I already had that set which id originally bought for my O2 sensors which worked because it slid on from the top.
I've now bought another set which are open and 1.6mm thinner. Hopefully they work as I don't want to cut/grind them.
6.45mm, but I may have gone further than I needed to. I didn't want the wrench thickness to prevent me from torquing the sensor down, which it could if it was too thick.
WOW this was painful...
Okay so my tool fit - got the old one off easily but because youre upside down your torque wrench needs to be in reverse to tighten! Mine doesn't do torque in reverse! Damn it! Had to order a digital torque adaptor!
Also a good idea to remove the middle coil pack for better access.
This is quite a simple but tricky job...
I couldn't see how to go in from the top? Problem I saw was I couldn't get any leverage as there isn't any clearance? Too much in the way? What size extension did you use? Did you have to clear the plastic intake runners?
I used a 3/8" ratchet and a short (3"?) extension with the 19mm crowsfoot. I slid my hand in between the power steering hose and the battery post in the black box. The downside is that you can't see anything, so you are doing it by feel. That's fine once you know where everything is.
That opening looks small, but if you undo the plastic clip holding the hoses to the engine compartment roof, it allows them to move quite a lot.
I hate to admit this here, since there are so many advocates of torquing everything to exact spec, but I just tightened it by hand to the point where it was solidly seated.
Ahh I see you cheated! Haha
I was able to get it tightened from the underside but you need your ratchet in reverse for it to tighten as you're upside down. So I just bought a digital torque adaptor and I'll give it another shot.
Also I incorrectly provided the torque spec its actually 30Nm +/-5 (22ft-lb +/-3.5)
I definitely cheated. I am maybe too old school, but I fall in the camp of those that believe not everything needs to be torqued to an exact specification. Would it be ideal, sure, but there are times when you can get by without it. In this case, you need to be tight enough to not leak and not so tight that you strip threads. After a few decades of wrenching and never stripping aluminum threads or having a component back out, I feel okay with my ability to do that with the oil pressure sender. I applaud and completely respect that you are doing it the proper way though.
I plan on doing the same thing with this sender, that I've done with many others,,
There will soon be a piece of Aeroquipe line from the original sender location,
to a convenient spot elsewhere.. Where I can service and or check the thing
without a whole afternoon of dinking around.
Fair enough, but in reality IMO mine is the original one and is now 15 years old and was still going... So it's not regular maintenance item.
I've just made this more complicated for myself because I want to torque it to spec. If anything i'd like to relocate the AOS that seems even worse to change out...
Ahh I see okay now I stand (although im sitting haha) corrected!
Were they genuine, OEM VDO or aftermarket? I bought mine genuine but there seem to have been several revisions of the unit.
Funny thing is that sender, I swear is the same as the one my Jeep uses, and many other cars,,
Its a Delphi style near as I can tell.. I have horrible luck with oil temp sensors ... Used to have them
break all the time on my buggy's till I started remote mounting them..
So far seen the same style on Fords, Jeeps, VW's, even old mini's..
Could just be a case of an expired patent or a background manufacturer..
Possibly - the genuine one is made by VDO but I can see there is a URO parts option as well.
Although i'm now slightly confused, in the factory manual is it a oil pressure switch or oil pressure sender??
In PET its oil pressure switch (which would have a torque spec of 22Nm) in the factory manual the Oil pressure sender has a torque spec of 30Nm
naming conventions are all over the place.
