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YOUR RESEARCHAnti-seize on the lug nuts, did you know?
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Check sds
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I checked the SDS for Permatex and Optimoly and they seem very close ingredient wise.
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Suggestion
I like to change my wheels every mile, so I go through 2 or 3 buckets of this stuff a week.
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Suggestion
I think that was the test car some tire company had bought new.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Common auto repair 101 says you should always divide up a high value into thirds, hence the 30/60/96 I used, and with a cross-hatch tightening pattern.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Common auto repair 101 says you should always divide up a high value into thirds, hence the 30/60/96 I used, and with a cross-hatch tightening pattern.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Bottom line, because we remove our wheels a bunch, the standard use of the anti-seize is negated, but the important part is the lubrication for torqing.
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I never knew that I had to use anti-seize on the lug nuts in more than just the threads!
Here's the instructions, see pic below.
I just pulled my wheels off and the lug nuts were dry as a bone. Applied the anti-seize as directed and torqued them to 96 ft. lbs. in three increments, 30-60-96.
I got a way more of a turn on the torque wrench than before when they were dry.
Suggest you start doing this if you haven't yet!
I hope this is not true....I have never used anti seize grease on any of my cars except for my centerlock turbo s. I swore I would do centerlock delete on any car I buy in the future because of that grease. Is there a problem with not using on the lugs. What is the risk?
The trick is you can apply what you need with a Q-tip,, most folks way overdo the anti-seize.
All that's needed is a small dab (Think < BB)
Its also more important on the 2 piece "floating" lugs than the old single piece ones,
If you have a early 911 (69-74) with the Aluminum lugnuts its important to prevent electrolysis
between the aluminum and steel.
Right tool for the right job used at the right time.
There are other types of lube that will do the job ,, There is a brand called Superlube that
works well to just protect the threads on the bolts again,,, less is more.
Its a very light silicone grease.
Yes truth - none of you read the owners manual... tsk tsk haha
Page 208:
Apply a thin coat of Optimoly TA (aluminium
paste) on the thread and between the bolt
head and movable spherical cap ring (arrows).
The bearing surface of the spherical cap
facing the wheel must not be greased.
From what I've heard from gear-head gurus with the phd's to prove it - If you're just driving around the streets and keeping it under 110 mph, no biggee. But if you're tracking it or "driving it like you stole it" all the time and generating a lot of heat on the hubs, the anti seize becomes more crucial - I think the anti-seize provides for a little lubrication that when torqueing, provides a more accurate reading. The wheel and hub assembly are stressed tremendously under heavy loads and you want the wheel/hub to be torqued correctly to the correct values.
Bottom line, because we remove our wheels a bunch, the standard use of the anti-seize is negated, but the important part is the lubrication for torqing.
My .02...
It's for all our 996's...I just chose to take a pic of the sheet for the GT/Turbo, non-turbo C2 and C4 are the same.
Reduced, nope, because Porsche specifies the use of the anti-seize AND a value of 96 ft lbs.
Common auto repair 101 says you should always divide up a high value into thirds, hence the 30/60/96 I used, and with a cross-hatch tightening pattern.
There is a world of difference between aluminium assembly paste and anti-seize. Read this link for an explanation.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-lug-nuts.html
I think this is very true. The effective torque seen at the wheel is likely very different when torqued to 96 with anti-sieze versus without. It's likely safe either way, but when the factory spec is 96 ft-lbs
with
anti-sieze, that's the only proper way to do it.
I didn't realize the area marked with
arrows
in the first post needed anti-sieze as well -- can't remember if I did that last time, though I did do the threads.
.
Thanks for catching my mistake. I just edited my post to correct it. I was going from memory when I said point A -- should have gone back and looked at the diagram again before I posted.
No, there really isn't... That thread is 3 pages of useless back and forth that basically comes down to: Do it however you want, torque to 96ftlb, 110 ftlb, or 118 ftlb... as long as the bolts/nuts don't fall off, and you can get them out next time you need to, it's all good...
Geeezzzzzz...
Agree that the 997 thread is a bit of a mess. I don't think there is any doubt that torquing to 96 ft-lbs with anti-sieze is the only proper way to do it since that is what is specified.
Using anti-sieze when it is
not
specified is a really bad idea because you will over-torque the bolts due to additional lubrication that is
not
factored into the torque spec. Using anti-sieze when it specifically is specified is the only proper method, even though in practice you will likely be fine if you don't use anti-sieze.
uhh huh. My method is use a 1/2 inch drive socket on a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a 4 foot cheater bar. Crank until it squeals,then stand on the end of the breaker bar and bounce up and down. Got em tight....
Those old aluminum lugbolts were crazy light!!! I remained shocked every single time I took off the wheels on my 74 911s and 69 912. I'm pretty sure my '87 3.2 Carrera had them also. Forget titanium, which is only marginally lighter, the aluminum ones feel like they would float out of your hand. I wish they had them for the 996, but I guess they are not up to the task. There was another RL thread on lugbolts where somebody said their '98 or '99 996 came from the factory with those ultralight aluminum bolts, but I don't know if that was verified as original and that's the only instance I've heard of them being on a 996.
I use this stuff. I checked the SDS for Permatex and Optimoly and they seem very close ingredient wise. The main difference seems to be price, $5.00 vs $30.00.
So far, the injury/fatality rate using the Permatex version has been acceptable.
