Looking at a 2001 996tt need advice

Alright guys I'm just about ready to finally make my dream a reality and buy a 996tt but would like some input from the experts. I have been looking for quite a long time to find a car that meets my standards and have come across a 100% stock, 2 owner 2001 996tt arctic silver on black with complete records from day 1 and 85,000 miles on the clock. It recently had a full engine out service for clutch, flywheel, slave, accumulator and coolant pipes. Car is extremely clean and would easily be mistaken for a car with less than half that mileage. My main concerns are: -Mileage -The non Bose stereo -The fact that it's a 2001 potentially hurting resale What do you guys think a fair price for this car would be? Do you think it will depreciate at a faster rate due to the mileage and the fact that it is a 2001?

You might be better off on the Turbo Forum? Car is where? USA Condition becomes more important than mileage at a certain age. If the car meets your requirements, get a PPI and then make a decision on what you want to pay.

price should be 35-40k. These cars are going up in value. non bose is a non factor. 01s are nice but generally priced a little below others. when were the plugs and coil packs last changed. any paint work? any accidents. these cars are awesome.

As values go up the usual trend across collector cars is the first and last model years become most valuable. That noted, it has too many miles to be deemed collectible by most so enjoy it as a driver knowing you'll see negligible depreciation until you crack the fabled 100K mile barrier.

If the car is cherry with service records, its worth $40k all day. Start deducting from there if things are amiss, repairs add up very quickly on these.

Check that the coolant fittings have been taken care of - an expensive maintenance item with the Mezger.

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Car is in Canada and has been since the day it was sold.

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I believe the plugs and coil packs were done a couple of thousand km ago when the engine out service was done. Only paint work on the car was the front bumper for stone chips.

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What % hit tends to occur at that mileage?

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Coolant fittings were done a few thousand km ago.

I will address the audio concerns: The upgraded Bose system is really worth it. The 996 is the first 911 where the audio system is very good. IMO the PSE and upgraded audio system are two of the best sounds coming out of a modern 911. You will pay up for a clean car under 40k miles. It's just the way it is.

Depends on the quality of the paint, any dings/dents, interior condition, DME report. In great shape I'd say high $30s, in good shape I'd say mid $30s, in poor shape I'd say low $30s/high $20s. I've looked at quite a few 996tt in the last month, so I can give you a good market appraisal at least in MY area. There is a 76k 2002 with many interior defects, good paint, few dents, average service history and a few mods that is $36k. There is a 108k 2001 locally that has tons of rock chips, very poor condition full carbon sport interior, and significant wear & tear from driving on gravel? roads/winter. But, 1-owner, all service records, good shape mechanically and lowest dealer will take is $31k. Another 2001 with significant high$ mods sold for $31,500 locally with poor mostly full carbon interior, 105k miles, decent service records, and a few minor defects.

First things first the depreciation curve should be the last thing on your mind. There are literally hundreds of cars out there that even new would not give you what the 996 tt can. If you can find a well sorted 996tt in the 40-45k range it's a DEAL. These cars have hit the low mark in terms of price dropping I think it's safe to assume that barring a very high mileage, accident/salvage history these cars will not ever be below 35k. I bought mine 2 years ago with 28,000 miles at 40k and if I sold today I could probably make a few grand.

w/85K miles which is on the high side, i'd think $37K if it is in excellent condition **but remember, it depends what you plan to do with it and how much you drive - if your a take wife to dinner, occasional cruise then 85K miles should be fine but if you drive the hell out of the car, it will be +100K miles sooner than later and value will certainly be effected. 100K+ turbos less desirable for resale

thanks for the help guys. The car is up for 50K Canadian and he is very firm on the price. The car is near mint inside and out. when the coolant pipes were done a couple of thousand km ago they were put in with epoxy. Is this not the same way they are installed from the factory? So i can expect them to start leaking again later on down the road?

also the tap the input/insight/experience here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum-61/ But we perfectly understand if you prefer to hang out here. Best of luck.

Properly done expoxy coolant fitting fix is fine. Pinning is also recommended but the modern expoxy if well done with knurled fittings is a-ok. 2001 sells for less than 2002 and later because of dashboard differences, possible 2nd gear pop-out and chassis that is less reinforced than 2002 and later. If you are going to spend $50k Canadian I would hold out for 2002 or later and lower mileage.

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First get "fair" out of the price discussion. Fair's got nothing to do with price. Price is just an opinion, not fact. The seller is entitled to his opinion, but so are any prospective buyers. My usual advice is for pricing info visit www.nada.com or www.kbb.com and plug in the car's numbers and condition and see what trade-in/wholesale, private sale, and retail sale numbers come up. This gives you some idea of the market price. I like to add that if the car is worth owning at all it is worth somewhere between its trade-in/wholesale price or as close to this as the seller will let the car go for, and as high as a buyer is willing to pay. Not earthshaking news I'm sure but that's about all I have. Used car buyers are more concerned with price and condition. MYs after 2001 have some pluses, but enough to make a real difference? Not really, IMHO. I mean your decision to buy a Turbo can't hang -- I hope -- on whether it has a glove box or not. As for the chassis/body stiffness issue I have not read/heard about early Turbo examples folding in half. The best thing you can do for the car's resale value is to make sure the car is worth owning in the first place. Avoid paying too much for the car. When you get the car take care of it and service it right. Enjoy the car. When (if) you go to sell the car you have done all you can regarding its resale value. If you are serious about the car you must give it a thorough used car check out. You must experience the car on the road first as a passenger then as a driver. All the car's systems on the road must not manifest any untoward behavior, from the transmission jumping out of any gear to the engine making any untoward noises and any and all things in between. You want to make sure you run the engine long enough that the DME can go through its readiness monitor checks at least once and my info for the Turbo the DME does this 2 times and the CEL remains off/dark. (You of course confirm the CEL comes on when you turn the key to on but then goes off when you start the engine.) After the test ride and drive give the car a thorough used car check out. Shut off the engine and let the engine heat soak and sniff around for anti-freeze odor. The radiators could be leaking. My info is in cold weather areas these can fail at around 100K miles. The one's in my Turbo were fine at < 130K miles but when I went back to the mid-west in winter of 2014 and subjected the car to at times sub-zero temps for nearly 4 weeks all 3 radiators developed leaks. Check for trash build up too in the radiator ducts. Lots of trash mean you'll have to budget to have the bumper cover removed and the ducts cleaned out and at that time might have to replace the radiators if they are showing leak sign. Check the spoiler hydraulics for any leak sign. Arrange for a PPI. This gets the car in the air so a close examination can be made from under the car for any leak sign. Every seal, gasket, o-ring, plug, hose, hose connection, hydraulic line and line fitting are checked for leak sign. Be sure the CV boots are intact. Don't forget the ones at the front along with the front diff seals and so on. What else?... Be sure the paperwork for all the work that was done the clutch control shaft needle bearings were replaced along with turbo to exhaust sealing metal o-rings.

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Great information! Thanks so much for the detailed response. With this being one of the largest purchased I will ever make, I definitely want to be sure I'm getting the right car.

if im spending 40k on a car, you better believe a glove box and sound system(or not) is important. those are two things you cant mess with later get the car you want. youve waited this long, get as near perfect as you can