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YOUR RESEARCHoil change = 10qts?
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Check oil
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Drove it around for while and checked the oil and then added a little.
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Suggestion
I forget, does a 2004 have a dip stick?........I always check both, but go by the dip stick reading.
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Suggestion
It is more than enough (and accurate) to say that over filling the engine oil is not good nor is it recommended.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've never looked at the DIY procecdure but one thing you need to make sure you do is fill the filter housing up (it takes a little while because the oil filter soaks about 1/4 - 1/2 a quart up) and then screw it back on.
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'99 C2, oil filter and oil change in my car is always 10qts. The owners manual say 9qts. (9.2 or something... I don't remember exactly).
With 10qts. the dipstick is right at full and not a drop above. Does the car really take 10qts?
This is my 3rd oil change and I keep forgetting to ask about this.
That is what mine takes (If I let it drain for a while). I think that it takes some time for the oil in the cooler and lines to drain back. I usually am not in a hurry when I do this and once even let it sit for a week, because I had the wrong filter. I put an empty coffee can in place to catch the drips, and when I went back to my shop a week later the can was overflowed.......I was quite surprised. She took every bit of 10 quarts to refill.
An hour is the recommended length of time if I remember correctly, However, I got a more than 1/2 a quart more to drain out by letting is sit for several hours. Maybe the op has a car that drains easier....who knows......
It shows right on the money. I bought this car used so I wonder if the original owner put that sump kit/windage tray or whatever it's called in it? That adds another 1/2 quart right?
Anyone know if there is a visual way to verify this or is it just an internal mod and the outside looks no different?
I know he did a lot of D.E.'s so maybe that's why it take more oil?
BTW -> I let the oil drain for about an hour everytime I do this.
I put in the amount suggested in the DIY on renntech. Drove it around for while and checked the oil and then added a little. I was really concerned about overfilling.
You know I'm really intrigued by just what your company car is...
I've never looked at the DIY procecdure but one thing you need to make sure you do is fill the filter housing up (it takes a little while because the oil filter soaks about 1/4 - 1/2 a quart up) and then screw it back on. Dry start-up is bad!!!
Not really. With a neon you are situated somewhere near the outside edges of the car. Driving the 300 is like being in the middle seat of the middle row of an MD-11.
Halfway there now. Oil is draining, filter is out. Used an allen key and band filter wrench. Tomorrow I'll take the plug and cover to the auto parts store and fit an allen socket and filter end cap wrench. I've decided to take the time and torque them both properly to spec, and to use the 0W-40 that the dealer recommended.
What are you guys doing to document your oil changes? If I send myself an email with the date and mileage, and keep it along with the receipt for the filter, gasket and oil am I good to go?
The renntech says to put the filter on the car and then install the housing. It looks like you put the filter in the housing first and then fill the housing with oil. Is that correct?
The proper installation method is to put the filter element into the housing. Push down until it "clicks" into postion. Then slowly fill the housing up with oil allowing the filter to soak up all the excess oil. Keep doing that until the oil level in the housing is about 1" from the top. Then screw the filter housing back on to the car.
Had a slight oil smell when I got into work. I'm assuming it is the dribble from the bottom of the pan and where I touched the pipes. Anyone else get this?
My dash gauge reads down 1 bar after 10 quarts, and my oil pressure is higher with the fresh oil.
Yes. The dipstick and the gauge in my car correlate very well. I was about 1/8" down after filling and running, and one bar down when I got to the office.
The first indicator was the increase in oil pressure...very bad for your engine. Oil pressure will increase with oil volume. To get rid of the excess oil, remove the oil filter and dump the oil in it. Reinstall and run engine for a few seconds; repeat until you get rid of enough oil. It is always better to run slightly lower oil level than slightly higher. Let the car sit on a flat surface for a good while and recheck.
My guess is if you did in fact add 10 quarts, you have almost a quart to remove.
Oil pressure is high when? How high? Once the car is up to temp is the oil pressure showing higher than it did before the oil change? Higher oil pressure is noticeable after changing your oil for the first few days because the oil is new.
Since the return of the motor oil is by gravity, any increase in the volume of oil will increase oil pressure. A decrease in oil volume will decrease oil pressure. If you get a different oil pressure after changing your oil it is most likely because you have increased the oil level to it's proper amount.
You are not serious, right........??? Please refrain from giving advice you have no basis in fact to support. There are actually inexperienced people on this board that might possibly take you serious.....
It is more than enough (and accurate) to say that over filling the engine oil is not good nor is it recommended. You do not have to make up fantasy laws of engineering to add credibility to that simple fact.
To add fuel to the fire, after removing the excess oil, the pressure still was higher than before the oil change. I attribute this to higher viscosity in new oil. It is now the same as the first week I owned the car. This is myfirst oil change at 2900 mi.
Been building engines for more than 30 years. Try adding and additional quart of oil to your engine and take a reading of the oil pressure. Proofs in the pudding. In addition, more oil than necessary will also create more heat and increase the load on the engine thereby reducing its power. Wanna dispute that one too?
It should be the same pressure as when you bought your car. The viscosity of oil is measured at 212 degrees F by SAE requirements. Oil pressure should be tested when engine is at 190F or so. Where is your needle at idle at that temp? How much oil did you have to remove?