2003 996 Restoration has begun - Any suggestions?

Last year I purchased this 996 from the estate of a friend who had passed. He always wanted to get it back on the road but did not have the resources to do so. I got it for next to nothing and figured I could accomplish his dream, have some "fun" in the process and accomplish my goal of replacing my newer convertible with this one so I can purchase a GT3 in the next year or two. I really want to keep a convertible, but wanted to use my newer one (trade in value around 65K) towards a new GT3, so this might work out nicely. Since I only paid a couple of thousand for the 2003 911, I have a lot of room for repair and upgrades. The Blue Book value in FAIR shape is 23K. Background: This 996 was sitting uncovered in a driveway for nearly 10 years. The interior is a mess but the body is in good shape. Have a folder with all the service records and talked to the shop who told me the engine/drivetrain is good but the car had a lot of small service issues the previous owner could not afford to take care of and after they pilled up to the point it was no longer driveable, he just parked it uncovered where it sat in the southern heat, humidity and rain for a decade. When I picked it up, the key would not turn so I had to tow it to my home as is, and then ha ha it sat in my driveway for nearly a year but finally I have a little time to start on restoration. Replaced battery and repaired one rim that was cracked by welding it so I could inflate tire and roll car. In the process discovered that 1 of the 4 rims does not match! Tested electronics, most of everything seemed to light up and work, hood, engine compartment release, seats, windows turn signals etc. Radio (replaced with CD player) What I know is kaput: Convertible top will not operate. Motor needs to be replaced as does the top. Small side window is not in position and cant raise or lower properly. All inside panels, carpet etc need replacing. Steering wheel needs to be replaced as well as shift **** and mechanism. At present: Pulling out the dash was quite the project, took several days working on and off. Many of the electrical sockets fell apart when clipping and will need replacing. - Replacing the ignition switch. I was not able to turn the key no matter how hard I tried and based on information I found the original ignition switch has known flaws. Purchased a new one and now replacing. Once I got the dash off I had access to give it a hard knock with a hammer and then it turned!!! Then was able to turn and remove the ignition key component which I will also replace once I figure out how to rekey it. The key needs to be replaced too, its falling apart. - While the dash is out, would like to figure out what might be a good idea to replace. I would not want to go through that again! - Want to determine if it's best to replace dash with used one or look into using existing and restoring. Any suggestions? - Looking into upgrades to the center console entertainment section, found some info on adding digital components to the console with a new after market housing. ANY IDEAS or SUGGESTIONS? If anyone has been through something simialar I would love to hear any suggestions. For example, restorations services for panels, dash etc. Components I should replace while dash is out, upgrades to center console entertainment system etc. Im open to any suggestions. Thanks!!! Dashboard removal got the top opened manually center console removed. Will need to be replaced The finished job. About 4 hours work in total. Viewed this first....he makes it look easy for dash removal, but it was extremely helpful. Left out was the removal of the passenger airbag, could not get it out until I realized there is a big spring at the back under the dash that holds the airbag module in place even with all screws out. DUH I said to myself when I realized it was not a tube I was looking at but a large spring that all I needed to do was pull down from the bracket to release. This was not covered in the video. You Tube The removed dash. This is what sun beating down for 10 years does! Replaced ignition switch Purchased this....excellent manual. 140$ Also Youtube has been great!

The blend doors for the heater/ac are famous for coming apart (foam rotting, actually). You should replace or repair them while dash is out. Search for "black foam coming fron the vent". There are numerous threads about this.

The paint looks like it's in pretty good shape for sitting out in the sun for 10 years! Good luck with it!!!

OP - Do you have a list of the best salvage and parts folks? First that come to mind for me are Specialized German and DCAuto. Specialized has entire cabs as donor platforms and about every item you can think of available. DC has plenty of inventory as well. Very cool project!

QUESTION: Does anyone know if with all the instruments disconnected, would I be able to "start" the car as long as the ignitions switch is connected? I would like to test it and see if I can turn the engine over. I already tried but nothing, so not sure if battery is just dead (haven'd had chance to check it yet) or if something else wrong. Thanks!

Find a wrecked car with a good interior. I'm afraid anything else will quickly cost more than the car is worth.

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The ignition key surround detects the RFID pill in the key. If not there, it's a "no go" for the immobilizer and the car won't start.

Assuming thats the black box that sits on top of the ignition switch? Pretty sure I put it on but I'll check again. But.....even if it was not connected, shouldnt the engine turn over, just not start? Or does the immobilizer prevent even engine turn over?

The starter will not turn, so u will get nadda.

great start! agree w @beermanpete - if you have the HVAC box out, take it apart and replace the foam on the blend doors take pics and share - don't think anyone has posted that method before salvage yard is likely most cost effective for replacement panels rather than recovering lots of stereo upgrade ideas here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-in-here.html I'd probably go with the AliExpress unit as can add a backup camera with an oem looking double din https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...s-install.html

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I�ll be doing it on mine next week, so I can take photos as well. Second time doing it that way.

Turns out I did not have the imobilizer device attached so I transferred it over to the new ignition switch/lock assembly and turned the key and was pleased to hear the engine turn over, but I only let it go long enough to know it was working. In addition it seemed that electrical components related to windows etc seemed to work better, as was described in some of the info I read about the old switch and "strange" electrical issues. I still need to replace the key tumbler component. Heavy lubrication helped a lot, but I don't want to rely on the old one. Not sure what's involved to replace it, but like everything else I'm going to learn. Have not worked on cars since I was 16 years old! This is a lot of fun getting my hands dirty again after decades of office work. If anyone has suggestions on startup procedures for an engine that sat for 10 years please let me know. My thoughts are to take the plugs out and pour a little oil in each one and let sit a few days before turning it over. Of course I will also drain and replace the oil and fuel. After that if I can get it to start I'll probably take it to my Porsche guy to get the engine in shape before I start replacing the interior. The carpet is in good shape, so I will try to remove it and have it cleaned then reinstalled. The back seat area is in good shape, just needs cleaning, so I'll concentrate on replacing the front components.

I�ve never heard of pouring some oil into the cylinders after spark plug removal, but it makes sense. I recently read about priming the oil system on a BMW N55 engine, and I think it would make sense for your engine in this situation. https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/bmw-si-...system-priming The only thing I�d do differently is to unplug the fuel injectors before you crank the starter.

No dont pour oil in plugs for this motor. First pump out the old fuel and replace, then change the oil, then disco to fuel pump relay. Next use the starter to turn over the engine 4-6 times for about 5 sec each time. U should see the oil pressure gauge start to move with the starter. Then put the relay back in and start the motor for a quick second and verify the oil pressuse comes up asap. Thats it. There is no way to prime these motors and it will be loud for a minute but u will have oil in the low end of the motor so its fine.

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Geeze...ok...guess its not going to be as easy as I thought. Thanks for the advice. Will work on all that and let y'all know the results.

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Well u dont want old fuel fowling the system and it might not even be combustable any more so that should really be swaped. The oil change and the cranking is pretty simple. The death of these motors is poor oiling so your start up is important.

I reconnected the gauges and also looked at a photo I took when I picked it up, it was on empty. So I tried adding fresh gasoline but it was odd that when I was pouring it in, it would only take about a pint before it would overfill. I would stop and it would take about 15 seconds to go down. Not sure why? After a lot of stops and starts I got about 2 gallons in. Got some Starter fluid and sprayed it in the air intake and it started but had to continually give it bursts of starter to keep it running. Awful black smoke at first but eventually giving it short bursts of starter fluid I could keep it running. At least I know the engine runs, and it actually sounded good after a few tries. The throttle responded a bit, but not normal, and while i got some higher revs, it would bog down after about half way to the floor. Thought I could purge it out, but after a can and a half of starter fluid later, I was able to let it idle without spraying for about 45 seconds and then it would turn off. Ran out of starter fluid so I called it a night. I added some cleaner fluid, added a bit more gas and will leave it for the night to see what happens. So not sure where to go from here. Thinking things might be "gummed" up in the fuel pump. It ran enough that the good fuel should be through to the engine by now? I hate to spend 200$ to tow it to my Porsche guy, but I'm starting to get into an area that I have no experience with. Good news is that all the weird electrical issues seems to have disappeared since I replace the ignition switch components exactly as I had read on other blogs.

The gas fill thing is a venting valve not opening. Do a seaech as there r a couple things it can be but the fixes r not that hard. U may just have to get a lot more fresh fuel in there to get the old stuff diluted. Its an old car that has run in a while, u r making progress so keep at it. First thing to check is fuse e6. I

Hey y'all thanks for ALL the suggestions, great info and its been a big help. Im starting to price interior replacement, I figured out costs should be under 2K by purchasing from various people. Lots of dashboards on ebay for that model. I want to try to get everything I need from one source if posible. Couple Question: 1) recommendation for scanner 2) Does anyone know an easy way to test to see if fuel is reaching engine? Right now going to spend a little time trying to figure out how to get it running so I can drive it over to Porsche repair. If I cant figure it out by end of year I'll just tow it to repair shop.

Any standard fuel pressure gauge kit should attach to the schreader valve on the fuel rail. U can rent them at the parts store or buy one. Amazon Amazon

Well back on it and finally diagnosed that there was an issue with the fuel pump. did a jump test on the fuel relay and no noise whatsoever from the fuel pump so I ordered a URO fuel pump. Got it in and finally had some time this weekend to work on it. It was easier than I expected, took out battery then the plate below which exposed the top of the fuel gauge sending unit. Cleaned the entire area first then disconnected the tubes and electrical, marked the position of the ring, then gave it a wack with a hammer and piece of wood to the ring, and it moved. Then used hand to unscrew the plastic ring. Lifted out the Fuel Gauge sending unit and then OBVIOUS what the issue was. Wires had disintegrated, tubes disintegrated. To get to the fuel pump I had to drain the gasoline first. Used a plastic tube to stick in at the bottom of the tank, and then (not going to pass any OSHA guidelines) sucked the other end of the tube with a small wet vac plugging the gap with a rubber glove. The damn tank was nearly full so it took multiple wet vac fills to get it all out. Let me tell you....10 year old gasoline is the STINKIEST **** YOU'VE ever smelled....absolutely NAUSEATING!!! finally at the bottom of the tank was an oily sludge and pieces of the tubes, wiring and the float from the fuel gauge sending unit and misc parts that fell off. Guess that explained why my fuel gauge was stuck on empty. Used paper towels to wipe out all the sludge then a vacuum to clean the tank spotless. So now I need a new Fuel Sending gauge, have a new Porsche one on order for 600 bucks....ouch! Couldnt find anything else that looked ok. If it weren't for the stinky fuel, it would have been a nothing burger job. Washed my hands 10 times and I can still smell it. The driveway area smells to high heaven from the fuel. Did my best not to spill any but unfortunately did and it STINKS!!! Very excited to get the Fuel Sending unit installed, hooked up to the fuel pump and see if I can start the car. Pictures below of my adventure. This is the access below the battery plate The problem is obvious, disintegrated hoses and wires bottom of tank full of parts Pump removed and tank cleaned Fuel sending unit is also bad, $600 replacement Fuel Pump

Apparently that corrugated fuel line can be sourced and replaced if the pump still pumps. Not sure that would help you in this case.

Unfortunately everything is kaput. I'll be happy if the replacement of these parts gets it going. Been sitting in the driveway for a year now. Wish I had more time to dedicate to it, but if I can at least get it started and move around that would be a big accomplishment.

actually I was thinking about the fuel sending unit. You're right, I should check the pump and see if it works. I suppose I could just try 12v to the leads and see if it turns. If it does, at least I can keep it handy in case the new URO pump breaks down. Thanks

With the URO fuel pump installed, and then the $600 Porsche Fuel level sending unit and new gasket, the car started after only a few turnovers. Ran great at 2800+ RPM but not on lower RPM. Borrowed a friends scanner and had 2 FAULTS, one was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Took it out and cleaned it, put it back in but no change. Did some more research and found a youtube video that said if you disconnect the MFS it should allow it to run at idle and will prove that is the problem if it does. Sure enough, disconnected and started up right away with no peddle action and idled perfectly, I was so happy!!! Put the steering wheel on and took it for a drive in front of my home and everything worked perfectly, ran VERY smooth, Ordered a BREMI MAF sensor for $120, was very well rated and half the cost of a Bosch. Will change it out when it comes in. Also ordered an oil change kit, new filter and oil filter tool. Will change oil, and other fluids and if everything goes well I'll start working on the inside and start sourcing parts. Hope to have it on the road in a few weeks using it only around town.

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Tested the fuel pump it was indeed dead!

I had posted this on another forum. Was not sure what was going, on, but I discovered the answer just after the post. Going to put it here in case anyone ever needs this info: Was pleased to discover how easy it was to open and clean the instrument cluster. However, in the info display area a plastic piece was bubbled from 10 years in the heat and upon removing it I can no longer see the information, unless I look very carefully on an angle after removing the plastic that was there prior. I'm thinking that the plastic is some sort of polarizing film, and now that its absent, i cannot see this section. Sure enough I find out that it is indeed polarizing film. You can buy it on ebay or amazon and very inexpensive.

Replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor $120 Bremi and it started up and ran smooth. Reinstalled the steering wheel and took it for a short spin out front and it was smooth as silk. Now moving on to the interior. Working on the dash, purchased leather from The Leather Hide store https://leatherhidestore.com/our-col...ro-smooth.html got it in less than a week, very impressed with the quality. Good match, smells amazing, so now working on the dashboard sanding it down after removing the old cracked leather. Its been tedious getting the old glue and thin cushioning off, but I'm almost there. Have not found any solvent to remove this layer, so I just continue to sand it down.

That might be the "soft touch" texture goo Porsche put on hard plastic to make it feel more upscale. I've had some luck with isopropyl alcohol and an abrasive pad.

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Pretty sure that�s the foam padding/lining to the original top surface material. I�ve recently stripped a bunch of extra interior parts in preparation for an Alcantara wrap panel swap. I was careful when removing the leather or vinyl, and am planning on leaving it in place for underneath the unbacked Alcantara fabric.

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Yep you are absolutely correct. There were a few areas that were intact, and it looks exactly like yours. I dont know what they used to hold that stuff down, but it is near impossible to get off. As you sand it, it just ***** up into tiny rubbery ***** and clogs the sand paper after awhile. I just do 20 min of sanding each day, I nearly have it done now. I might try some isopropyl alcohol as suggested and see what it does.

Isopropyl had no effect. so continuing sanding. UPDATE: I decided that I sanded enough and would put the leather on today with contact cement. I won't say it was as "easy as it looked" watching youtube videos, but it certainly was "easier than I thought" Took me about an hour going section by section. I was going to spray the glue on the dash and then the leather, but in the end I decided to use a brush and apply it section by section. The picture here is about 80% done and does not do justice if you were to see it in person. I stood back and just said WOW! It looks amazing, it matches the old leather areas perfectly and the aroma is incredible! This has given me confidence to do more areas of the interior. Lessons learned, I really needed even sharper scissors, it was very hard to cut small sections, the leather is very tough. Even my Dewalt cutting blades brand new had a tough time cutting the leather. A fabric steamer is a MUST. So glad I purchased one for this, made it easy to stretch and to flatten any imperfections after laying down the leather. Plastic tools to get under curves and areas that fingers are hard to reach. before I trimmed excess leather and pressed it perfectly.

I completed the Dash restore and it turned out amazing! Was not as difficult as I thought it would be, just takes patience and planning on cutting the leather. I decided to do a section at a time rather than spray the entire area with contact cement and do it at once. Easier if you do a small section at a time if your a novice. Used a clothes steamer in the process and it worked really well. The pictures do not do it justice and the leather aroma is amazing! meanwhile, I removed the door panels and started refinishing them. I've never like the carpet on the doors, so I decided to take it off and redo it in leather. I couldnt find any posts on someone who did it, so I decided just to give it a try because I think it looks super tacky. It was actually easier than I thought. I used a heat gun on the carpet section by section heating it up then scraping it off. It came off faster than I anticipated and ended up leaving a base about the same as when you take the old leather off. with the carpet removed I then tool out the speaker grill and since have put the leather on, it looks great, will upload picture later I tried to "skin" the upper crescent shaped area with Carbon Fiber wrap, but it didnt turn out well. Decided to to leather. With the leather replacement going so well, I ordered another 1/2 hide to continue the work. VERY happy with the leather. It is almost 100% identical to the leather originally installed. They were super helpful on the phone and they shipped FAST. https://leatherhidestore.com/eo-13-black-beauty.html From the Leatherhidestore.com "Euro Smooth" highly recommend these people Electrolux steamer to help stretch the leather into place and take out bubbles after leather is applied. Worked perfect! Contact cement for application.

At the same time working on the AC system. I finally got around to purchasing a leak detector. The digital detector got a HUGE hit in the engine compartment near the compressor so I guess thats where the main leak is and from research its quite common. Also I got a hit coming out of the Air "handler box" by sticking down the main center vent with the fan running. Not sure if it was just sucking in AC gas from when I was charging the low side, and some of the residual is in that area, but since I had the dash out, I decided to pull the box out and put new AC evaporator in, because I NEVER want to have to do that again!!! Decided on a complete replacement of the box and AC evaporator kit $900 since the evaporator was at least 500$ for a decent one, and who knows what else might happen if I used the old one. Took me about 2 hours to get it out, most of the time was just trying to figure out what needed to be unbolted and where. Now that I've done it once, probably could do it in less than an hour. Not looking forward to putting it back in, its a tight fit and a lot of wiring that has to be routed correctly to make it fit. I have to admit, I was a bit nervous to take this step, its a lot of steps, I just hope I can get it back together properly. As you can see in the pictures, the foam issue is on full display. Another reason just to replace the entire box rather than fix all of it and hope it lasts. looks in great shape until you open it Foam is nearly completely gone. WHY did they use foam? Perhaps to always allow some air flow? No signs of leakage of AC or Rad fluid in the heater core, but will replace it out of an abundance of caution. this was the only piece of foam that was intact. Not exactly sure of the purpose but it is filthy.

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The restoration looks great! I can recommend sharp tools like this for what you�re doing when working with leather. The smaller trim scissors have a slight curve to the blade.

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Yes you are absolutely correct. I was using regular scissors and was thinking that there must be something better. Very tough cutting the leather. Will look for those tomorrow, I have a lot of work to go. Thanks!

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Couple things. The foam was for sound absorbing. Of course that was a bad idea. VWAG has created this problem since the 1980's of using dissolving foam in the heater box. Also, that green gunk in your heater box is A/C oil. Unless you spilled it in there it was leaking from the evaporator. That is unusual; I have never seen a VW/Audi/Porsche evap leak. I note you are replacing the evap, which is a good move with all that green gunk in the heater box. I suggest cleaning all that gunk out of there. You will need to guess how much A/C oil has been lost and add that amount.

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Thanks for your info. The green fluid spilled out of the evaporator when I was removing it. I saw no signs of a leak, but the sensor I had kept picking up signs of a small leak prior to me removing it. Not sure if it was drawing in vapors from spilled AC from inside the trunk area.... might have been, but out an abundance of caution and after talking to the parts people (who obviously want to sell parts) I decided to change it just in case....I never want to pull this out again! Had I had your comment before, I might not have, but on the other hand I cant really explain that sensor hit, and there are other things that can go wrong in that unit, so who know if it was the wise thing to do or not. One thing for sure, I cant do without AC in New Orleans!

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I just got the component this morning, and very disappointing that it is really only the box with the evap unit. Nothing else is included, so I'll end up swapping over the old sensors, levers, blower motor and other items. Had I knew that, I probably would not have ordered the unit. I knew I was not getting a heater evap but I thought at least I would get the blower motor. And its the same design with foam so who knows how long that will last, hopefully its better. After a lot of thought I decided to go ahead with the replacement. It wasnt so difficult moving all the components over. Putting the unit back in was not as bad as I thought. Would be easier if I had help but I managed pretty well. After installing it, hooking the wires up was just a process of elimination, and it went fairly smooth. I hooked up the battery to the car and tested it, everything worked except for the air re circulation. Not sure why, but I cant hear or feel any movement in the control at all. Not sure what the issue is, if its the motor, wiring or if I installed the arm correctly. I also discovered that it is near impossible to install the heater core from the outside! Very upset that I did not install it prior to putting the HVAC unit back in place. So given all the above I'm going to leave the wiring connected and drop it back down where I can put the heater core back in and then try to diagnose the recirculate proplem. Should also be noted that I have NO IDEA if this worked prior to me removing it. I never checked that. Also, I was looking at a video to refresh my memory on wiring placement, and saw that this video showed all 4 slots at the back of the Climate control being used. I do not have a plug for the 3rd position. Ive gone of the wires 10x. I did trace the wire from the recirculate and they go to one of the other plugs. Initially thought that was my issue, but does not appear to. If I cant fix this, I will just move on, I can live without that working. Climate control. Is it missing a plug or this was some sort of option???

update, I pulled the unit back out enough to put in the heater core, and also disconnect the actuator and sensor. With the recirculate actuator out that controls the fresh air flap I found that it only moves sporadically and if you put a little pressure on it, it will stop. So assuming it is bad, so going to order the sensor and actuator. It would be very difficult to replace these with the dash in place so best I get this done now and have everything working. fresh air flow sensor. Actuator for re circulation flaps

The flap with the foam still attached is the fresh air intake flap. Closes off the path when on recirc. The HVAC panel only has the two connectors.

I am shocked you bought a whole new hvac box. That must have been expensive! The recirculate flap tends to seize up. Then the servo motor's internal gear breaks. I have changed many of the recirc flap motors.

the actuator is bad. lots on ebay for 30$ and if I want a new one its $349 or more depending where you look. The part number printed on the part is not the real part number, but ebay people use it so thats all that comes up. Finally found a part diagram with the porsche P/N on it. Part number HVAC Air Inlet Door Actuator - Porsche (996-573-915-00) Now trying to decide if I go the used route or bite the bullet and go new.

It was a bit of an error on my part, I thought it came complete including the blower. I was peeved when it arrived to see it only came with the AC evaporator. I was going to send it back but figured its water under the bridge now and may as well go through with it. I got a good price on it, "only" $825. At least I'll have all the doors with the proper foam on them and it will be new. Just fixing the actuator now and I will install it and start buttoning things up. I think Im going to order the used one, I can get all the sensors and wiring harness for 90$ and then I have extra parts

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I removed the recirculate actuator after testing and seeing that it will not open when attached. If i took the arm off, it would work but once pressure was applied it was easily stopped. The actual flap was loose and was easily pushed with your finger (this is the new box) so it has to be the actuator. Question: Should you be able to move the arm on the actuator (when disconnected) without the gears mooving? Its as if something was loose inside that allowed the actuator arm to be moved but inside (with it apart) no gears would move. My thoughts are that you should not be able to move the actuator arm without the gears moving. bad actuator?

The large white gear cracks where it is pressed onto the metal shaft. Don't try to move the actuators by hand. They are irreversible and moving them by hand breaks the output gear. Gently trying to move the actuator arm by hand, it should not move.

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Thanks, thats what I thought. Hopefully the one I bought on ebay is in good working order. ***UPDATE*** When I receive and install the new one, how do I determine the starting position of the actuator? Is the flap closed in the startup position or is it open. I was trying to figure this out when I swapped over the actuator. I'll have a close look but it seemed like the actuator could be installed in two different positions. UPDATE UPDATE - I found a thread with a bunch of great info on it from 2023. You actually posted on it. There is a procedure for the install. Glad I found it. But reading it, I still dont know what the start up position of the flap is. Will reread it tomorrow. I dont want to mess up this new one.

Another setback, I should have known better! I purchased an actuator with EXACTLY the same p/n and actually every single number was identical on the actuator. The seller said it was out of a 2001 996. I figured it was good for my 2003 because they were from the outside IDENTICAL, however when I received it, and swapped it out NO ACTION whatsoever. I had purchased the entire harness with all the actuators. After closer examination I discovered the harness had one extra plug on it that went into the Climate Control unit. Mine had no plug in one of the slots. I traced the wires back and sure enough some of the wiring from the RECIRCULATE actuator went to that extra plug. I even tried plugging in that plug to the back of my Climate Control and the actuator and still nothing. I feel like a dope assuming a 01 996 would be the same, given the p/n was the same but only to discover that they are WIRED DIFFERENTLY! Just ordered another from a 996 2003.

I've now had 3 actuators (used) shipped to me that I purchased on ebay or online. NONE of them worked. Taking them apart its the same problem, cracked gear that will prohibit it to move properly. Also the motors on 2 of them seemed to have intermittent or low torque so that it would bog down when moving the lever. Out of the 3 I have, I tried rebuilding them using good parts from each, and one the gear was slightly cracked but there was still problems. Getting into the mechanics of this device is complicated. I figured out how it works and where and how the "reporting" of position happens, but honestly its just too "sensitive" a device to rebuild it and HOPE it stays working. Taking the dash out is just something you never want to do a second time! So I've given up on used, I'm thinking that most of the used are already defective that were pulled from cars because of the age. Clearly the design was not optimal. I was about to purchase a new one for $359 + shipping, when I came across a post here that indicated the audi version is the same, and is on Amazon for 30$. No brainer! going to order it and try but this will be the last time I try to avoid the expense, I really want to move forward and as they say time is money!

***********UPDATE************** The $32.00 A-Premium actuator WORKED! it does not come with the black arm needed to attach to the fresh air door arm, but all you need to do is transfer it from the bad actuator. I read where someone installed this without removing the dashboard, I have no idea how they did it, but God bless them! Put the HVAC unit back in place, now time to start buttoning things up. .

I had a similar issue on my old 986 - which is what started me on a dash removal to begin with. It was also a good excuse to handle the blend doors and add some accessories while I was in there. If I recall correctly I ended up swapping the arm onto the new servo as well. It, too, split the inside gear. At least these are relatively simple and not a bespoke item like the 964/993 actuators.

Love that 996! That was the year I became a Porsche fanatic in high school! Playboy magazine featured the Turbo Carrera, and I was honestly equally as excited with that as I was with the rest of the magazine!

UPDATE: after a lot of blood sweat and tears, and some profanity.....I got the dash finished and reinstalled. I really did not do a good job documenting the screws and what goes where, so it was an arduous process of elimination and 2 steps forward 1 step back to get it done. I now believe I could take out and put the dash back in with my eyes closed! Finally can see the light at the end of the tunnel. changed the oil and its ON THE ROAD finally, I take it out once a day to get a feel, everything seems great, got all the error lights out except the rollover warning and the top not closed. Next is to get the rollover light cleared, probably a sensor or fuse. The top will be done last, I expect that and the AC to be $$$. As you can see I replaced that ugly carpet on the doors with leather. I think it looks great. Also did carbon fiber on the instrument cluster. I plan on more upgrades in the cabin as I go along and will get the seats redone in black leather with red stitching. All the rims and tires have been updated to stock sizes, and feels great! 225/40 ZR 18 front on 8x18 rims 285/30 ZR 18 rear on 10x18 rims All said, I can finally sigh in relief that the money was well spent given how it runs. I'm very happy! Total investment so far is around 6500$ carbon fiber instrument cluster carpet removed and leather installed Notice the yellow headlights now CRYSTAL CLEAR! new rims. It was HARD finding 10" but I got them finally

Used the 3M headlight restore kit. Took me about 2 hours to go through the sanding process then 2 coats of the included UV coating. All in all it was fairly simple, the lens were so orange that you could barely see inside of them. Amazing transformation! I also did the FIRST oil change in 10 years this week! YELLOW! crystal clear! first oil change in 10 years lights restored

I really like the door panels. I wish i cared enough about my car to do mine.

OP - Coming along nicely. What�s your vision for the door handholds and lids, center console, horseshoe and dash trim strips?

Quotes source post: 20196812

I've been looking at all sorts of options. I like the idea of black carbon fiber or maybe red. Its not that expensive for a roll so I might try red first to match the instrument cluster and see how it looks. If no good, I'll try black carbon fiber. Whatever I do will end up the same on all those items to coordinate. The other option of course is just plain black. I want to keep it classy but with a little pizzazz! There are a lot of kits out there, so thats an option too.

Quotes source post: 20197012

Red carbon door handles would look really unique. The little dash trim strips might be a bear to do. Are there any hydro dipping options in the greater Miami area? That could be a big cost reducer.

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Sounds like good suggestions! I have some great ideas for the trim, hope to share that soon. I spend the majority of my time in New Orleans now, so not nearly the amount of services that Miami has. Still have MAJOR $$$ stuff to do. 1) AC needs to be reworked including new compressor and full charge. Hoping the lines under the care are good. 2) The entire convertible top does not work, only get clicking sounds and no movement, so that's going to cost $$$. Top itself is ok but should be replaced. 3) need to replace plugs and coils which is at least 1200$. 3) All seats need to be redone. Will get an estimate in the next couple of weeks but assuming at least 2500$ 4) roll over protection is not working, hoping that will be something simple.

Do you notice any cabin/audio sound difference with the lower leather on the door cards? Carpet's a very good sound control tool so I wasn't sure what happens when the door card loses it.

Quotes source post: 20203100

this is not a good time to ask me, the stereo is all messed up with speakers not wired properly and the cones on several have deteriorated. I was able to get it working enough to have some decent sound, but not up to spec. I love just about every genre there is, but really into opera and jazz which needs a good sound system. Great sound system in our A8 with the B&O system, but I have no allusions that I can duplicate it in this car. Once everything is done, my plan is to bring it into a car audio shop and get a blue tooth screen system installed to update it along with good speakers. The audio shop I was talking to said they can outfit the 996 with a great system and they adapt the new speakers using 3D printed adapters to make the new speakers fit into the old BOSE. Having said that, I really don't think removing the carpet and replacing with leather would have any measurable effect. The leather REALLY looks good, makes it look luxurious and modern.

Nice thread!! A lot of things that will help me!!

Guys I finally got around to cleaning the top with a product I did a lot of research on. WOW I cannot believe the difference. Very easy to use, it comes with everything you need to apply, brushes, micro cloth, scrub brush etc. Not sure the pictures do it justice, but the end result was that it looked like a brand new top! I'm ecstatic with the results and I wanted to share it here. Some of the pictures you might see black spots, but that is just from raindrops when it started to rain. I was not able to put the sealer coat on because it started to rain, and you need dry conditions for 24 hours, but will do that part later in the week to ensure I have a perfect seal. According to the instructions, once the sealant coat is applied, rain/water will bead and run right off. Anxious to see that. sprayed down but not cleaned yet Look at the stains from mildew/mold. No wash was able to get it out compare the top DONE! DONE the product

Looks good, also found it available on Amazon. Amazon.com: PROTEX Convertible Soft Top Care Kit with Canvas Cleaner & Waterproofer - 500ml, THE COMPLETE CARE KIT : Health & Household Amazon.com: PROTEX Convertible Soft Top Care Kit with Canvas Cleaner & Waterproofer - 500ml, THE COMPLETE CARE KIT : Health & Household

Impressive.

Great work saving an unloved car from the scrap yard! Looks awesome. Make sure that you change all the fluids (if you haven't already) and flush those brakes and clutch. With any car sitting for extended time you will likely see oil leaks from seals. As you have seen in the interior, plastic degrades and you may find vacuum lines and other plastic parts in the engine bay giving up the ghost, but just keep at it. You are going to have a wonderful car!

Quotes source post: 20243997

Slowly going through everything. Will do the transmission last. I have to do the brakes soon, so I'll replace the fluid then. Absolutely NO LEAKS of any kind on the car, so very lucky. The car was well serviced until he ran into some big ticket items, then he just parked it for 10 years. Hard to believe but I suppose he just got tired of putting money into it, but he always told me "some day". Now that he's passed, it's all up to me to finish his dream! Hoping to get on top of the Immobilizer issue soon, will ship it away for diags to see if that solves the strange ignition issue. After that its working on the roll over fault (that's a safety issue) then convertible top not working, then finally AC. I might do the AC before the top. Dang hot down here! Also want to work on all the groans and moans underneath the car. Sounds like a few bushings need to be replaced to get a smooth quiet drive.

Finally got around to doing the waterproofing. Takes a little bit longer because it takes several strokes for it to soak in. As you can see after 24 hours it works amazing. Tried to do a 2nd coat but it just wouldnt take it, kept running off so I think Im good!

I've been using RaggTopp for about 20 years with excellent results....but with Protex price point being $13 cheaper, wondering if anyone has used both and switched over to Protex.

All I can say is that you can see the difference and the condition it was before the cleaning, I thought that top had to be replaced!

Wow, what an amazing job on cleaning that soft top. I had a ratty old grey one which I replaced for black. Water doesn't bead off of my new one like that. Wondering if I should seal my new one? Thoughts?

I have a new top on my newer 911 and it does not bead off either, but I've never had issues with water. Though you see it bead off here, after a few minutes of rain, it runs off as normally after that. I've never really paid attention to this before but I think from this point forward I will waterproof it once a year given it is not very difficult or time consuming. The car is parked in an area where I do not get any leaves or debris on it, so I doubt I will have to clean it more than once every 2 years. However the previous owner had left it in the driveway for 10 years accumulating all sorts of debris and mold, and water was coming into the interior as it must have lost all of its repelling capability. The cleaner and protector certainly demonstrated its effectiveness!