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YOUR RESEARCHTurbo K24 996 on Speed Academy
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Run (i have #14)
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Suggestion
The HPD K20C1 is discontinued sadly, it wasn't a very long run (I have #14).
Leading evidence: 'Run (i have #14)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run (i have #14)' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Stage 1 provides the quickest and the most economical starting point to get you up and running, all while leaving a path to stage 2 or 3 in the future if you so decide to take your car even further.
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Suggestion
I had a JDM Spec GC8 WRX running factory 18psi and that thing was fast with an uprated IC and water spray.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Over 600 WHP requires more octane then pump gas can support, you would need to consider running a Flex Fuel system or possibly race gas
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Suggestion · Original poster
Stage 1 provides the quickest and the most economical starting point to get you up and running, all while leaving a path to stage 2 or 3 in the future if you so decide to take your car even further.
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Generation: 20261026T183130Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Honda Powered Porsche's Will Blow Your Mind (And They're Affordable!)
911 K-Swap Stages - How much power do you want? – Tuning by Nick
911 K-Swap Stages - How much power do you want?
If you are considering a K-Swap into your Porsche 911 it is a good idea to think about what you ultimately want from the project. To try and help you choose the best path for you we have broken the swap into 3 stages. Please keep in mind, these are just guidelines to help provide some consistency to the planning stages of your build, ultimately you can follow any path or direction you like.
Stage 1 - 400 to 450 Wheel Horsepower
Stage 2 - 450 to 600 Wheel Horsepower
Stage 3 - 600+ Wheel Horsepower
Stage 1
- 400 to 450 Wheel Horse Power - $15,000 to $20,000usd in parts cost
The Stage 1 approach is a great way to get started with a Porsche K-Swap. Choosing to go with a stage 1 build you get 100 to 150 additional horse power over the original stock engine without breaking the bank. Stage 1 provides the quickest and the most economical starting point to get you up and running, all while leaving a path to stage 2 or 3 in the future if you so decide to take your car even further.
A Stage 1 build would consist of:
An internally stock Honda K24 engine with a turbo kit on low boost
An easy to drive / low pedal effort clutch kit (equivalent to the OEM clutch)
Stock Porsche "returnless" style fuel system supports up to 450 WHP
Stage 2
- 450 to 600 Wheel Horsepower - $20,000 to $30,000+usd in parts cost
The Stage 2 approach is if you are looking to make the most amount of power reliably on pump gas. This approach would require a mildly built engine with upgraded pistons and rods to support higher boost levels while adding an additional margin of safety / engine protection. This approach requires an upgraded over stock fuel system and a higher torque rated clutch kit which results in more pedal effort.
A Stage 2 build would consist of:
A "built" engine with upgraded Pistons and Rods to support higher boost levels from the same turbo kit found on the stage 1 kit
A slightly more difficult to drive / higher pedal / harsher engagement clutch kit with a segmented puck style disc clutch kit
Upgraded "return" style fuel system to support 450+ WHP
Stage 3
- 600+ Wheel Horsepower - $30,000+usd in parts cost
The Stage 3 approach is if you are looking for an "All Out" build to make the most amount of power possible. There is technically no specific path to this approach but we can give you an idea of what would be considered in the scope of this approach.
A Stage 3 build would consist of:
Fully built engine with Pistons, Rods, Sleeves, upgraded Valvetrain and Cams
Over 600 WHP requires more octane then pump gas can support, you would need to consider running a Flex Fuel system or possibly race gas
Clutch kit - A twin disc clutch kit rated to hold 600+ WHP
Possibly upgraded transmission gear set or 911 Turbo transmission swap to reliably handle the extra power that the original transmission was not rated for
911 - K-Swap Resources – Tuning by Nick
While I�d prefer a VR6 swap, Nick is one of the �good guys� in the swap world. I�ve chatted with him before and the swap is solid. Having been around a lot of Hondas, the K24 is a good base.
Truly the Audi 2.7 V6 makes the best sinse , Sound, Power, DNA...........That is if you just can't stand the M96........But to me the M96 is like the Sexy Wifey/GF you've known for a long time who is very very high on the Hot/Crazy Scale....but you know her better than anyone else and know how to deal with her mood swings, flaws, and crazyness........
Oooh, VR6 everything! VR6 is the best sounding engine ever.
If I had a 996 roller I'd VR6 swap it. Concerned the VR6 might be too long though. Although if a K24 fits a VR should also.
I have seen a 993 that was VR6 swapped.
Nick seems to have done a great job, not sure I'd be willing to pay all that though for a swap! ($16k plus a motor & parts, so could easily be $20-25k or more).
https://tuning-by-nick.myshopify.com...-parts-package
I could make half the stuff myself but still don't know if id be happy with the noise it makes.
I still think a home rebuild to 3.8+ with Nickie's would be better and purer even if it cost more...
Cost is the major factor for a lot of people who NEED to do a rebuild. If $40K just to keep with a Porsche engine was nothing to the owner, they likely wouldn't have bought a base 996 to begin with. Of course a high hp/tq PORSCHE motor would be the preference for most ... until cost is involved.
Sure. The cost of a rebuild is important to every 911, 964, 993, 996, 997, 991 and 992 owner.
IMHO, i respectfully disagree with your second statement. Over my 23 years of 996 ownership, I have driven everything from a 964, 993, 996, 997, 991, 992 on the track and the only one I want to own is still the 996. So I will gladly pay for a top of the line rebuild instead of getting any other model. Its just a true "drivers car" that offers more than the new or older models. $40K is a deal.
Not to mention an extra 100 hp/tq added to the m96, while maintaining its flat six characteristics and sound is a game changer with the already incredible 996 chassis. Wow!
And depending on your usage and driving style, the naturally-aspirated feature of the upgraded M96 may be the best choice. It�s a very attractive option.
I hear you, and I knew someone would counter with this argument, but someone like you who bought the car new, or basically new, and someone buying the car today are two different people in most cases. Not all, but most. I've had mine for almost a year now, and while I now enjoy the sound and characteristics of the flat 6 (as a muscle car enthusiast) and just wish it had a little more to give, I don't think there's any way I'd be able to swallow $40K+ just to keep a Porsche engine in it and come out the other end with only another 30-40 whp. I'd find it hard to believe I'm in the minority on that with anyone that's purchased one in the last 5-10 years (who isn't just a hard core Porsche enthusiast). I could be wrong.
I hear you, as you suggest, there are two types of owners. Those that are willing to spend the money or not. Key word is willing. Not everybody is willing because they can't or just won't. No worries, I get it. The vast majority of us do not like spending big sums of money if we dont have too.
You may find that if everyone is honest on a LS, K24, Audi 3.0T, etc, swap, they will end up spending the same money as a short bloc swap or a middle of the road rebuild. For sure, any DIY guy can cut the overall cost substantially on a swap or rebuild.
But no question the advantage you have with an LS, K24, 3.0T swap is achieving substantially more HP than you can get from boring out and rebuilding the M96.
But M96 options are readily available.
- $20k should get you a m96 factory short bloc swap.
- $26-30k should get you 30-40 hp/tq gains in the m96
- $40k should get you 80 hp/tq gains
- over $40k should get you even more
Always comes down to willingness. For sure, if a new engine is needed or wanted, either the owner wants to stay true to a Porsche engine or they are OK with swapping another car makers engine. I have no issue with it. While I prefer the sounds and characteristics of a M96, and would personally prefer to rebuild it, its good to have swap options for thos that want it. Choice is good.
Good conversation.
Yes......... but it's truly a privilege of the well-heeled to put together a nice M96 and know that it has a service life pretty much no matter how you drive. The beauty of the K is that if you don't beat it up on track it'll do half a million miles.
They do sound awful but I'm working on it. The solution should be portable to 996.
Yeah, its tough to get a 4 banger to sound good. Fast and Furious 18 year olds w/ blue lights under the car come to mind. The key is to be able to swap out the K24 and swap in a fully rebuild M96 later in life as the 18 year old approaches middle age. But if it keeps the 996 in the road, I am game for it if the owner wants.
What would be good is a kit for the following - K20C1 motor and etc:
They typically make 285-300whp on a dyno and with small mods it is 350WHP motor (reflash and exhaust), about the same as GT3 of the era...
https://mountuneusa.com/en-ca/produc...20XsJ8LlNTqMhx
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/test-...ystem-upgrade/
https://4pistonracing.com/blogs/news...kGKQdwDEVmC0MC
I am suprised that noone is doing Subaru motor swaps on 996s - like a EJ257 or EJ207!
Yes, relatively easy to get decent hp from a EJ20G, 300+ on mild tuning. Parts available everywhere.
I had a JDM Spec GC8 WRX running factory 18psi and that thing was fast with an uprated IC and water spray.
A few aircooled guys using them.
https://www.thedrive.com/news/this-w...ne-in-the-back
The HPD K20C1 is discontinued sadly, it wasn't a very long run (I have #14). The replacement HRC-K20C makes a ton of power out of the box, up to 600hp, but there's no word on when this will be made available to folks without a racing license. Which means that 996 owners are stuck with finding a crashed Civic Type R and removing each piece. I have a LOT of data on this engine though so it's crossed my mind more than once to swap it into my own car.
EJ's are below M96's for reliability so I wouldn't bother lol. EZ36R is apparently pretty good, but offers no support for extra power. I saw one Factory Five owner pour years of good work into his just to throw in the towel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-H6-818R-Build
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.