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YOUR RESEARCHRear brake issue?
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Fill with perf brake fluid as well
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They flushed and filled with perf brake fluid as well.
Leading evidence: 'Fill with perf brake fluid as well' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check rotor surfaces' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Changed back to street pads and I have the same thing happen on the front pads/rotors.
Use 220 grit wet or dry paper (better grit retention)
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I have used 220 grit wet or dry paper (better grit retention) on a piece of window glass flat on the work bench.
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Something to keep in mind for future when using used pads with new rotors....
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Suggestion
You'll have to check the rotor surfaces with a straight edge and ensure they are flat.
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I was going to autocross the car tomorrow with my daughter (she drives her 99 Jetta, first autocross of her life) and figured it would clean up the rest of the rotors due to light street usage and the autocross will provide more cleaning power.
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Suggestion
I would be inclined to replace the rotors as they I believe are "defective" but of course you are out the cost of the bum rotors unless you can get some money back from where you bought them.
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I recently had new rear rotors installed on my 996 c2 and kept the existing pads - pagid yellow as they were slightly more than 50%
After driving around for about 180 km I. I notice the wear on the rotor is not even across the the surface of rotor..... Only the top and bottom regions of the rotor seem to be coming into contact with he pad.... (See pic)
Today I even used black magic marker and drew lines on the centre of the rotor to see if they would come off while driving..... They are still there...!!
Is this normal when using new rotors and existing pads?
Both rear rotors look identical to the pic below...
I went to the track a few weeks ago and my nice clean shiny rotors got all blue'd up with the track pads. Changed back to street pads and I have the same thing happen on the front pads/rotors.
I was going to autocross the car tomorrow with my daughter (she drives her 99 Jetta, first autocross of her life) and figured it would clean up the rest of the rotors due to light street usage and the autocross will provide more cleaning power. But it looks like it will be cold and rainy so I might just skip it.
No I did not.... My shop did the install ... Wondering if it will level out over next 500km or if there is something else going on.... They flushed and filled with perf brake fluid as well.
It is damn obvious from the picture that your brake pads are not hitting the rotors correctly, meaning the pads have high and low spots and are not level. Please do yourself a favor before it gets worse and put in some new brake pads. It's also a safety issue because from the way it looks you have about 10% of the pads actually hitting the rotors to provide stopping ability. It is not only a good idea but almost imperative that when replacing the rotors you put in new brake pads and properly seat them.
Not normal.
As DBJoe996 pointed out the pads are not flat. Or the rotors are are not flat.
You'll have to check the rotor surfaces with a straight edge and ensure they are flat. If they aren't not sure what you should do. I mean you can resurface them but you'l lose some brake life as this would remove metal and thin the rotor. I would be inclined to replace the rotors as they I believe are "defective" but of course you are out the cost of the bum rotors unless you can get some money back from where you bought them.
If the rotors are flat then be sure the new pads are also flat.
You will still have to perform a brake bed in operation afterwards. This consists of back to back very aggressive braking operations from "high" speed (as high as you can safely drive) to say under 30mph. Avoid bringing the car to a stop! If you do this it can result in a pulsing brake pedal afterwards!
I have found 3 hard brake events back to back good enough. As soon as the first event is complete that is the car has slowed down to 30mph or thereabouts hard accelerate back up to the high speed again and then apply the brake pedal hard again and slow the car down then repeat.
After the last slowdown be sure to drive the car enough after to thoroughly cool the brakes.
It has been my experience after doing the above the pads and rotors are making full contact with each other and braking is just about 100%. One can feel the brakes biting harder during each slowdown which means the contact between pad and rotor is improving and the pads are outgassing volatiles.
I know i know. That is why i posted. The rotors are brand new... The pads have 60% on them. Is it possible to take the pads off and resurface them so they are more even? The rotors are definitely strait - no issues there... This is a pad issue and in curious why my shop told me to drive normally until they Wes down... Taking them off and wearing down the edges manually to flatten then makes more sense to me...
New pads is the proper solution but I also understand track pads can be expensive. Grind the pads flat would also fix it if you have a good setup to ensure trueness of the finished pad surface.
Guess you could take the pads off and use a belt sander or a disc sander to flatten them. Be sure t wear a breathing mask. No asbestos but there could be copper or something in the pad material and the dust from sanding that pads you shouldn't breathe in.
If the pads are that worn by the time you get them flat I wonder how much pad material will be left?
Might be better to just replace them with new ones.
For sure guys. New pads would be way to go but at 60% pad remaining the pagid yellows can go for a long time... And I've never had this problem before ...
Grinding them down should do the trick here.... Ill report back my results
When these pagid yellows go i have a set of PFC 08 going on next!
I agree - it looks more like metal to metal contact than friction material to metal contact.
If the pad isn't flat, just get some really coarse sandpaper and put it on a flat surface (even a concrete floor is flat enough IMO) and rub the pad on it. At the very least, you will immediately find the high and low spots, and it should grind it flat with some effort.
Good that they are in correctly.
It will not take much to sand the pads flat. I have used 220 grit wet or dry paper (better grit retention) on a piece of window glass flat on the work bench. What ever you use make sure no grit is left on/in the pad material.
Thx all for the pointers ...
Removed and sanded down the pads today.... Problem solved!
Something to keep in mind for future when using used pads with new rotors....
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