How do you set the 996 up on jack stands???

How do I set my GT3 rear up on jack stands??? Specifically, where do I position the floor jack so that the car is balanced and both wheels lift up at the same time??? Once the wheels are up, where do I position the jack stands??? Do I want the traditional jack stand that has the U shaped receiver at the top or do I want the flat top stands with the rubber cushion??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have ordered the dk20 jack with the pad so I need to know which type of ac jack stands would be best to order...

Easiest way to get the rear of the car up is to place a jack under the engine case where the two halves come together and form a flat lip about 8" long. Then you can position the jack stands under the rear jack points that are in front of the rear tires. A standard jack stand will work but one with a flat top will be more stable. Just make sure the pad fully clears the aero kit side skirt, otherwise you could put stress cracks in it. Karl

Karl, So if I position the jack pad under the center seam of the engine casing, this will not cause any stress to the motor mounts??? I assume that I will need to put blocks in front of the front wheels so that the car does not move forward in addition to applying the emergency brake... Is this correct??? Thanks in advance for this most important tech info. I need to remove the Cosmoline. Also, is there a way to lift both front wheels at the same time??? Where would I position the jack pad in that instance???

No, you can jack the car from the engine without a problem. We do it on the Cup cars all the time (if we don't use the air jack). Yes block the front wheels. The parking brake won't do anything, once you lift the rear wheels off the ground. Good luck with the cosmoline, I spent two days getting it off my car. If you want to get the car up on 4 jack stands, do it in this sequence: 1) Jack one side of the car from the rear jack point. This will also lift the front wheel off the ground. Get it high enough to put a jack stand under the front jack point, just behind the front wheel well. 2) Repeat step 1 for the other side of the car. 3) Jack the rear of the car up from the engine case as described before and put the rear jack stands in place. You will need a low profile jack for this work, because with the front of the car on jack stands, some jacks will be too tall to get under the rear bumper cover to get under the engine case. Karl

Thanks Karl, that is the info I was looking for. I have ordered the AC DK 20 floor jack (3.1 inches profile). I hope that is a low enough profile???

It should be. I have a Griot's low profile jack and it works fine. Karl

I got a low profile long jack from Ultimate Garage. Forget the name but it's blue. Works great on lowered cars- highly recommended.

So you're absolutely sure about this? Here's a previous thread on this: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...threadid=25510 Someone said their dealer said this was a big no-no.

When I jack my C4 up from the rear, I place a piece of wood between the jack plate and the rear suspension cross member and jack it up that way. When I use a jack on the side jacking points, I put a hockey puck on the jack plate and use one on each jack stand also. The puck conforms to the shape of the jacking point and reduces the probability of the car slipping off the jack stands during the 3 jacking cycles mentioned above.

I've have found two ways to put a 996 on stands although neither is perfect. The first is just as Karl describes. It doesn't surprise me that the dealer would frown on it but it does seem to work. The second is to jack at the rear jack point and put one jack stand under the front jack point and the other over the bolt that is just inside and in front of the rear tire. The bolt holds a brace which runs diagonally back to the large cross member that runs under the engine. It appears to be a very strong point. We take the extension piece out of the jack stand and put the resulting hole over the bolt. This approach works the best for us. Warning: Be very careful when putting your car on stands. When jacking the second side, keep an eye on the stands you already have in place. This is when they are most likely to lean or slip.

I'm absolutely sure that I've done it lots of times on 996s, GT3 Cup, and GT3 street cars with never any problems. The dealers tell you what PCNA tells them to tell you. Much of it is related to liability concerns. If you jack the rear and don't chalk the front wheels the car could roll forward and off the jack, getting someone hurt. So PCNA says don't do it. They also tell you to run 44 psi rear tire pressure but how many of us do? If you're uncomfortable jacking the engine, then there are a couple of other suggestions in this thread that you can use. I use the brace that JimB describes as a tie down hook for my car when I trailer it and he is correct, it is a very strong point. The suspension cross member might work but it's awfully far under the car and I would think it's hard to get to with a normal jack. Karl

rockitman, i ordered the AC DQ13 jack (not here yet). i am not so sure the DQ20 will be able to reach in far enough to jack the car up on engine case. we used DQ13 on a very low 993 (RS ride ht) and the jack was barely was long enough. keep us posted on if the DQ20 works as i think many of us are interested in either DQ13 or 20's.

Good news...Just received the DK20 today and was a bit nervous about it being low enough to slide far enough under to reach the bottom of the engine where the two sides of the motor meet. It does reach far enough to get the jack pad to where the two sides of the motor forms a fin which is quite thin. Just in front of the fin, the engine bottom flattens out and there are two bolts where it is still relatively flat, but looks stronger since the fin has ended. I think that is where I will lift the car from. If the front part of the car is on jack stands, there may be not enough clearence for the jack to get under the car from the rear, but I am not sure. I think that can be remedied by driving the rear wheels up onto two 2x6 planks approximately 3 feet in length should you want to put the entire car up on jack stands. With the rear wheels sitting up an additional two inches...I can't forsee a problem with the jack clearing the back of the car and reaching the bottom of the motor so that the rear's can be lifted once the front of the car is already up on stands. If only the rear needs to be lifted, the 2x6's won't be necessary unless the front cowling becomes an issue since lifting the rear may lower the front spoiler dangerously close to the garage floor. In that case, maybe the front wheels can be driven onto the 2x6's to provide more room for the spoiler. Any thought's???

I was under my car tonight and realized I incorrectly described where to put the rear jack stands so I thought I better correct my mistake before someone drops their 996 on their toe. The bolt head to put the jack stand under is just to the inside and near the front of the rear tires as discribed above but it is at the end of the smaller cross member. Not the diagonal brace. Sorry for the confusion. Jim