C4 Front CV Boot replacement

Hi all, new member from across the pond here. I'm about to change the outer CV boot on the front of the 2001 Carerra 4 and just wanted to confirm whether it is necessary to split either of the ball joints as many of the instructional videos show? I did find one video that gives the impression that the axle can come out without all the disassembly which looks far moor appealing, as per the below link and screen grab from the video. Screen shot from video. 2m47s in the video shows the assembly pulling away with the coffin arm and hub ball joint undisturbed. ​​​​​​ You Tube Anyone used this method to remove the axle? Or perhaps I could even leave the axle in situ and just remove the inner CV once unbolted from the diff and slide the new boots on from the inner end? Any experience, advice or guidance appreciated.

Might be over thinking it a bit. At least when I changed out both front drive axles the ball joint for the lower control arm popped out in just a couple seconds. Probably would take you more time to work around the arm then to remove it.

Thanks. Am I correct in believing that on a standard C4, this level fo disassembly won't require a geometry set up as from what I can see, the standard C4 does not have concentric adjustment for camber on the inner arm pivot, therefore none of the adjustment areas are disturbed? Can I re-use the 32mm hub bolt or is this a mandatory replacement one use only part?

I did not need to do an alignment after I replaced the shafts. My replacement came with a new wheel nut so I'm not sure if you are required to replace it.

You will need to raise the lower control arm to ride height before you tighten it. There is a mark that shows when you are at the correct height. It's in the Bentley manual.

Quotes source posts: 19573142, 19573165

Noted and thanks!

I was able to remove the axle from my C4S without having to dissemble everything. This is a nasty job; that grease stinks and gets everywhere! I would recommend removing the complete axle and rebuilding it on a work bench.

What method did you use to remove the axle without disassembly? Thanks!

It's probably easier to remove the drive shafts than redo the boot on the car. The process is pretty much what your doing but you need to remove the wheel nut (which torqued to something like 300ft/pounds). There are a bunch of bolts on the differential. Remove those and the shafts come out as a whole One thing to keep in mind is CV wear is heavily related to dirt in the grease. It's going to be tough to keep it clean while on the car.

Quotes source post: 19574485

Got it - will remove the shaft and rebuild on the bench. Thank you. I've bought a deep 32mm impact for my rattle gun and have a large capacity torque wrench to get to the 340 lbs. If the entire axle is coming out, I'll order the inner boot also and a new axle nut.

Just checking, are the inner and outer boots meant to be different diameters , both on the axle and CV joint side? (Meyle). ​

Yes the boots are different inner vs. outer.

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Thanks - I was just surprised that given the small ends that both seal against the same axle, they are different diameters. I guess the recessed areas they clamp to correspond.

Quotes source post: 19574090

Sir, I was able to remove the drive shaft without disassembling the suspension which will save a lot of trouble and preserve alignment. What is the technique for removing the retaining c-clip on the CV for disassembly?

My mistake . It appears that your inner CV joint has been disassembled. In my case I need to disassemble the outer CV joint which is a different configuration.

@e30rapidic

Huh, for some reason it wont let us tag him. Maybe he has a setting off? U can click on his user name in his original post and send him a pm

The outer CV has an inside circlip/snap ring buried in the grease. You need to spread the circlip while tapping the outer CV to get it off. Picture of the outer CV with no grease:

That's a great photo for illustrative purposes. Thanks. I did expose the circlip , that greasy little bugger, and got it moved out fairly wide but that's it. Perhaps I will get back to tapping.

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The splines can get stuck.... some just slide out and some take significant tapping to remove

I've got the clip apart about like this but probably need more enthusiastic tap work. Not my photo but you get the idea. Thx guys.

I will elaberate..... i had to beat the snot out of one if my rear shafts to liberate the shaft. I used a large vise as a backstop, then smacked a 1/2" in diameter brass punch with a 4lb maul hammer. Its a bunch of strong steel parts locked together. As long as u dont make direct contact with another strong steel object u can hulk smash it apart

I needed a 4 pound hammer and an oak 2x4 to get mine apart.

In my case I did end up getting it apart. Just needed some persuasion but it was really just a matter of getting a good angle. I don't have a vice at the moment so one person holding the axle vertically while the other person opened the circlip and tapped down on the CV with a standard small Hammer. Up to that point I did want to hulk smash it though.

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Greasy, stinky, yes, but interesting bit of engineering. Reminds me of those crazy three dimension puzzles that I'm rarely very good at. CV design is so successful that it's basically used everywhere. I imagine there is some history behind these things for sure.

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I think (maybe wrong, correct me) that (cleaning this squeeky clean) putting this stub back in without the CV+Axle is what folks do to make a C4 into a C2? Same for C4S? Those 2 "stub" parts are ~$1000 in the aftermarket sector IIRC. YMMV