996 carrera new owner

Hi guys, have been quiet for a number of years now, was busy with BMW etc but recently I had the opportunity to get back to my true love, and this time I managed to get a very nice 996 Carrera 1998 with aerokit. I love the car in every way, but yup I went for a risk and took an engine damaged vehicle, although I know and have read the horror stories on these, but as the seller mentioned only head gasket failure (been diagnosed by dealer) so I went for it, but in the end it turned out bit worse than expected I know that the best solution is to put a different used engine, but that doesn't solve the problem now does it? this particular one suffered from a spun bearing on cylinder 1 and that resulted into a messed up crankshaft, broken rod, and one deformed rod, and sadly also one half of the engine housing will be scrapped. I have my own place where I can slowly work on the car so that is no big deal, and since I like the car very much I was wondering maybe some of you can help me source the missing parts, a used (at least still machineable) crankshaft is my main concern. this is a rather high mileage engine so no wonder this happened, it will receive all the servicable parts it needs, but yeah the new things from porsche are pretty steep and since there is no rush and I have another daily driver any help would be apreciated. cheers

beautiful! I like the color combo. I recently bought a high mileage car as well. I pretty much just went through what you are doing.

did you already have the damage or managed to avoid it and rebuild before it happens? maybe someone could also clarify about oversize rod bearings, porsche don't sell them but there are some codes that say there might be 025; 05 and even 1.0 oversized bearings, pretty new to these cars so I dramatically lack this sort of information

also maybe someone can share on this? how about the cranks? I've read that boxsterS (3,2) crank is Identical to the 911 (3,4) is that true? and how about the conrods? ads in ebay say that they are the same on 2,5/2,7/2,9/3,2/3,4 etc is that true? thanks

Wow, nice project! good luck with the build. Aero kit + red is a great combo.

thanks this car really doesn't deserve to become a parts car

Agree, we have a silver '99 C2 + aero sitting on the lift, being a good R&D patient. Were hoping to have it put back together soon. The aero kit really makes the car.

that's very true, looks a bit bland without it

Beautiful car. Once you're used to the aerokit, the non-aero cars just don't cut it. Good luck with the build!

Welcome to the club! These really are wonderful cars...the aero is the only way go.

Congrats and welcome beautiful car. +996 Pete and 5CHN3LL

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You driving a Truck in Latvia? Big pimpin... I bought parts from these guys good prices on new and decent used inventory. looks like they got a new site and expanded in the 3 years since I checked them out. And they are on the way to berlin, so you can stop on the way or have someone stop over when they are doing car pickup. http://teile.com/en/location-drive and checkout allegro.pl they have fair bit of 911 parts also.

Nice car! Welcome and thanks for saving a Porsche

Beautiful car love the red. Good luck w the project I'll be following your posts

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naah naah, the truck isn't mine, it was used to haul the red beauty home from Germany (1100miles) truck is a diesel anyway, hard to afford a big v8 truck over here thanks for the reply - will look into this info

maybe someone still could share some info on that crank and conrods? or maybe point in the right direction where to look for info etc the porsche parts catalog doesn't give more precise details at least on the rods

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Please HELP, quite desperately need a crank for my engine, at best std/std, had found one, thanks to kind renlisters but it doesn't fit my engine due to differences in IMS drives (twin vs single row sprockets) are they interchangeable (I assume not) maybe someone has one laying around and in short what must be done so that I am a Rennlist member and can post topics in the buy/sell section? thank you.

All you need to do for posting in the members sections are $18...become a member and the world is your oyster.

is there a thread on how/where to make a payment, 18$ are no problem.

There is a button at the top of the opening page that allows you to join.

well that was quick and simple thank you for guideing

Good deal! Rennlist thanks you!

well there is an update to the situation, through kind rennlisters I've managed to get the desperately needed crank, it looks to be in perfect condition and it arrived today will update the thread as the rebuild continues thank you Rennlist

well there is an update to the story managed to get the car running finally, although I own it now for 2 months I just yesterday managed to drive a 911 for the first time, first impressions - I just love this car. well anyway I have some pictures from the engine rebirth: new bits from the stealer - main/rod bearing shells and crank seals new timing chains and head gaskets crankcase this part of my engine was completely busted due to only available crank, the IMS shaft had to be changed to the twin sprocket one. first three pistons are in the heads were pressuretested and then resurfaced, new stem seals installed and ready to go. this was interesting considering that this engine was seen for the first time there was a funny story with trying to start the car, it is possible to make mistake in plugging the cam sensor for 1-3 cylinders and mix it up with crank sensor, the connectors ar 3 pin and identical, which seemed utterly stupid from Porsche at least comparing beemers, where this is basically impossible. so this took a while to figure out another thing was once the car started it misfired and backfired, this was a problem as my codereader only gave out 4 errors: misfire cyl 4; misfire cyl 5; misfire cyl 6; and misfire detection or something turned out that Germans had fettled with the engine and unplugged the cam position sensor, for cylinders 4;5;6; and stuffed an empty cover plug in to the connector (I don't know why) plugged the connector back on and no changes. inspected the sensor and it was corroded, so as this part fits mercedes/mini/fiat/kia and many other cars, and therefore cost only 35$ I decided to buy a new one and give it a go. (not even hoping this would solve it) but once replaced the car sprung into full life of 6 cylinders after that I took the car for a spin although this "princess" gave quite a headache and still continues doing that, I love it - simply a wonderful machine here are some more night shots after 50miles of gentle testing (stressfully watching all the gauges ) as I like taking pics, there will be a propper photoshoot once the car is completely ready for everyday driving. thank you for your attention!

gorgeous. and worth the labour and pain!

Impressive work. Congrats on getting her running again.

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Yes indeed and def worth it considering it's an aero model.

I have got one problem with the car, that I haven't yet figured out, the car heats up quite a lot in city driving, on the highway it is all perfect drive as much or as fast you want, the temp stays dead straight slightly above 80 degrees, but in the city driving all the "miracles" start happening, dead fan switches. fans themselves dead? or dirt and debris inbetween the radiators and condensers? ballast resistors, any quick methods of troubleshooting this?

Given your obvious mechanical prowess (seriously I'm in awe of what you've done!) I assume you've checked the coolant level and taken off the front bumper to clean off the debris that the radiators pick up?

haven't had the time yet, but it is the next thing on the list.

maybe someone knows. I installed a cheap cam sensor to test whether that was the fault for the misfires, the sensor died today (yeah 3 days after installation) but the car finally recognises that it is dead, I have following error: 112 Hall effect sensor by googling it, it is clear that it is the cam sensor, since I want to buy a quality item I have a question, which is the correct part number by online ETK, it is 996 606 106 02, however there is another part number which is also for 996, it is 996 606 106 03 which would be the one to choose? maybe the last one is some upgraded sensor? http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Camsha...rsche-996.html

The one ending with 02 is for '02 and older models. The 03 one is for '03 and newer. Part #34 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-01

much appreciated, thank you

damn, found out that there is a third one as well: 996 606 106 01, by the codes they should be identical, also with mercedes sensors price range 70~220$ with different manufacturers

Add a third radiator, clean the sides, and check the fans. Maybe your thermostat is not working well? Make sure the tank doesn't have a pinhole.

tank is new, third radiator is in place, the fans must be checked and radiators cleaned, but since the cam sensor is dead, that will be the first to replace

also took a few shots of it, before the sensor died, also no problems with cooling up to that point as well simply adore this car, even with all it's yet unsorted issues

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01 is superseded by 02. You can get the Bosch for $120 http://www.autoatlanta.com/results.p...r2=99660610602

Cooling issues are unfortunately fairly common and are usually not too difficult to fix. Search for "radiator fan", "fan resistor", "overheating", etc. The radiators fans, and their resistors and relays often go bad. There are ways to check proper operation detailed in those threads. Overheating while stopped or in slow traffic is typical of a non-functioning fan. Oh, and good job with the engine rebuild. Very sharp looking car.

well the car is giving quite a headache all these days, maybe someone could chime in with things to check the cam sensor died on Right bank (cylinders 4;5;6) I bought a new one thinking that it must have been the cheap chinese sensor at fault but the new one didn't even get the car going for couple of hours like the previous did the errors are that the misfires are damaging cat converter and 3 errors about misfiring in cyl 4;5;6; the car backfires and definetely the mixture/ spark timing is totally wrong. but I can't diagnose where is the problem, the other 3 cylinders are working perfectly, pulled apart the DME it looks perfect without any visible burns or corrosion. while assembling the engine outside the car, I inspected the engine wiring harness and it seemed to be in very good shape, no bent or cracked insulation was visible as well. one more thing while the first cheap sensor was on the car the diagnostics also gave out a code about Hall effect sensor. (but the car worked, the code also displayed when it stopped, but now it is gone) HELP

update, managed to go through all the wires (using multimeter beep method), from ECU to the sensor connectors, they all are intact.

To start, you can give us the error codes. Do you have Durametric to check cam deviations? Any possibility of damage to the reluctor ring (for the cam sensor) on the bank 2 cam?

well I don't have the durametric, i have launch x431, but the weird thing is it doesn't want to read the live data, with only ignition it works perfectly, no such problems with beemers codes were: P0300 Misfire Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0304 Misfire, Cylinder 4, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0305 Misfire, Cylinder 5, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0306 Misfire, Cylinder 6, Damaging to Catalytic Converter occasionally these as well P1316 Misfire, Cylinder 4, Emission Relevant P1317 Misfire, Cylinder 5, Emission Relevant P1318 Misfire, Cylinder 6, Emission Relevant P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant P1585 Misfire with Empty Fuel Tank only in launch software the codes themselves show as 65 66 etc, but description is the same.

well the damage to reluctor is very unlikely cause the car worked for the days, (driving, cold starts, warm starts etc) then it all was gone, by now I am thinking of buying the most expensive cam sensor precisely corresponding to the part nr and made by bosch the first one was some automega, the cheapest but at least the car worked and started normally right after installation the second one after the cheap one died was Facet/EPS, car never worked normally checking the original sensor with the Facet/EPS one using multimeter, the resistance on both was the same. (apparently maybe a defective sensor? ) the situation is kinda weird, I am not against buying the best (yeah ok wanted to save a few bucks, but usually new parts work, for at least a while...) but in this situation I am not entirely sure the cam sensor is the one to blame, it looks as though it might be.

Obviously you have problems in bank 2 only so that points to timing and intake runner air leak on bank 2. Since the engine has been disassembled, are you sure bank 2 timing is correct and any compression/leak down test done after assembly? Maybe you can check the bank 2 cams for alignment to start? Fuel trims on both banks may reveal more. Don't know what P1585 empty fuel tank is but I assume the fuel tank was not empty?

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I see. I agree you should at least use the Bosch cam sensor. Also, is it possible cam timing has shifted in bank 2?

What kind of Porsche specific tools did you use to reassemble your motor by chance? Was it the eBay ones?

well the timing shift is also very unlikely, because the car ran like **** when i first started it (with the oem sensor - possibly dead one) then I bought the cheap cam sensor - swapped it, car ran perfectly right away then 3 days off normal running and after a short stop (20 minutes) the misfiring came back, the car never worked normally ever since... rather strange, if it didn't work right after the first start, then I would assume the timing issues, but yeah, very unlikely I believe.

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ebay ones, but if they would be crappy then both banks should be misfiring not just one?

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ebay Tools have been known to ship 180deg off on the cam timing tool IIRC. Anyway you can get find someone with a durametric? Being able to measure the cam deviations can definitely confirm if there is something up with the cam timing/alignment.

so there is an interesting update, pulled out the DME it was all fine etc then I reinstalled the more expensive cam sensor on bank 2 (4;5;6) and the car runs like **** again but I tried to disconnect the cam sensor on the bank 1 (1;2;3) and the car runs perfectly (haven't driven it yet) only the engine has an error on hall effect sensor 1 , since it is such a pain in the *** (and much worse) to replace it, my question is: how bad is it to drive it around with only one sensor? emissions, less mpg? at idle the car runs like champ, very very weird.

and gladly I confirmed that there are no mechanical problems and timing issues it is a rather interesting fact that the sensor seems to be dead or halfway dead on the side that works perfectly and gives no trouble at all, like wtf? some porsche weirdness?

That is indeed weird. It's as if the engine will only run well with only one sensor but not both. I suppose you can just keep the cam 1 sensor unplug and test drive the car and see how the engine reacts and what other codes you may get.

well I just went through all the nightmare of replacing the sensor, but had forgotten to turn off the ignition and the battery is dry, so the morning will give me some answers, now both ar new installed, the more expensive one one the bank 1 that is harder to get to, the cheap one on bank 2, so if it fails, it will be easier to swap it.

Look forward to your update.

well with both sensors connected the car starts, somehow bit worse then with one sensor but starts, and it gives the same error none the less, Hall effect sensor 1 so now I disconnected and left with one sensor on bank 2, if I leave the bank 1 sensor connected only, the car stalls and backfires, very weird my only guess is that in some point in cars life the engine was replaced with a newer one wioth 2 sensors and corresponding engine harness and the ecu remained the one from a single sensor motor, the car is 1998 and the engine might have been replaced in 2001 as a warranty case only explanation for now, (I don't remember the precise Bosch part number but I believe the last 3 digits were 605 on the ECU, but the computer is the single long three row, 88 pin plug, not the 5 plug unit as the newer ones)

I think your explanation makes some sense.

This could be a good quiz question for Jake.

so antoher update on the 996, the chinese sensor gave up after a long city run and I replaced it with one of the old bosch oem sensors the car runs perfect however I have noticed another issue, concerning the alternator/generator, my batterry and abs lights come up on dash, the alternator was tested and seemed to be ok, the (charcoals or how they are called on the relay) had plenty of meat left still, and I precautionally replaced the serpentine belt to a new and fresh contitech one, although the old one was still ok, without cracks etc, however after a very rainy night the car squeaked like hell on cold start, as the pulleys also were very good condion ones, those were not to blame. but I saw that there are no rubber seals on the engine/trunk lid, are there supposed to be some? also the alternator had drops of rainwater on it, and somehow I don't like this, the abs/battery lights also go away completely when the car is really really warm. the battery itself might need a replacement as well, but still pretty weird, maybe someone has had a similar issue?

You can take the battery to a shop get a load test. If it's 4yrs or older, I would replace it to help further diagnostic. What's your voltage guage reading in the intrument cluster? Expect ~12v right before cranking and ~14v right after then between 12.8 to 14v at all orher times with and without accesories on. A photo of the engine bay may help to show what seals you think are missing.

the voltage is 14 and strong, but as soon as the batt/abs lights come on it drops to 12, ok battery is basically next on the list. the seals I mean shouldn't there be some? there are none on the body... and none on the spoilerlid/engine cover... yes the hole looks awful, and the rubber thingy must be replaced with a new one, (that sticks to the lid) someone tried to make it stay there using windshield glue or something similar...

oh yes is it common that the engine coolant temperature sensor goes bad? this one? I cleaned the radiators from leaves and all the gunk, the fans are working (when aplying directly 12v) also when removing the relays under the dash and connecting the pins straight away, they do come on, are there any other places where the wiring could be at fault?

here are some pics of the radiator cleaning day, just to fill up my "project" thread, basically there was quite a lot of dirt, but not tragic anyway, but clean now, to maximise the cooling capabilities. pressure washed...

ok few other questions this time thinking about future etc the transmission, it seems to be pretty dull, or it is "self-learning" and it will eventually learn to shift the way I drive, yes in tip mode it is pretty ok, but as an automatic it very quickly shifts to high gear, and in city traffic it sometimes makes the car veeery slow on acceleration until it gets that it must downshift. since I have had very many beemers before i know that their automatics are very cool and self learning question 2 is: how hard is it to replace this automatic with a manual, what differences are there? or a full partslist ok shifter/pedals/flywheel/transmission iteself/driveshafts (I assume) what's with the electronics (the car has a normal wire throttle body, no electronic nonsense) since I myself am able to bolt it on, the parts in europe can be rather easy to find. and the car has a very nice looks so i don't want to sell it and look for another one with a manual, and since the engine is done, there is really no need to look for another one. and one more thing is it possible to find manual transmissions with Limited slip diff? or those are as rare as unicorns?

Sounds like your alternator (most likely the regulator) is bad. Typical symptom is good 14v at start up but it drops to 12v or lower once driven for some miles and warmed up. Other possibilities are corroded starter/alternator cable and ground cable between the engine and the chassis. There are no rubber seals around the engine bay except on the bottom edge of the engine lid, which you have. You need to find a way to prevent water from getting onto the alternator as water will damage it. There sould be a cordian attached to the hole you talked about to mate with the snorkle to prevent water entry.

well what seemed to be a nice car and a well looked after example just with an engine failiour, turns out to be a complete nightmare, very much neglect on the technical side ok here is one small fail from me, which all turned out well the car cranked heavily, and by hand it also cranked 2/3 ok and 1/3 very heavy I decided to drop the engine (yes again) and these were at fault. once cams removed from 4-6 head, the engine turned over freely (it was hard to turn round even with plugs removed) I then installed the plastic pieces from other side, and the engine rotated very well so new were ordered and here is the exhaust issue bought new canisters from 997, as they often were at better state + the price of these was 195eur shipped, instead of 500eur + shipping for oem 996 ones I cleaned them slightly the old crap (did some patching up, to make at least more quiet/normal sound "for now" didn't help ) installing 997 ones, the only difference cut off a friend of mine fabricated new pipes to replace the dead cat converters end result quite loud anyway, enough loud for me so far the alternator was dead, so now rebuilt starter also rebuilt still fighting with small issues need to sort rear sway bar bushes, cooling issue - coolant temp sensor ordered transmission mount torn apart, - ordered don't know what else I might find well I also am not sure whether I need to detune the suspension, my car is lowered, and as it scrapes in many driveways and other places I am thinking of installing stock springs, maube someone could post pics of aerokit car on stock height. (my car has some kind of white springs, and probably techart made) mine looks like this

so another update with the technical condition of my 996 the car was suffering from rather heavy and unpleasant vibration at different RPM range. after small inspection it was revealed that this is to blame yees it is the gearbox mount, it seems to be ok, but... after checking it more closely it turned out to be almost completely torn off, so a new one was ordered, but that took a while, as averything does with porsche it was also pretty simple to install (if you have a ramp and heavy duty press) all in all it took me about half an hour. after longer testdrive, the nasty vibration has gone away, however there still is something, and as this was a factory mount I suspect that the rear two engine mounts are on their way out as well so these will be ordered as well, let's see how long it takes for them to arrive