Locks are acting odd... any thoughts?

The door locks on my car have never seemed to work very well, and recently they are getting worse. Sometimes while driving my "lock" button will light up on the dash, and sometimes it's accompanied by a double-beep and sometimes not. Also, the passenger side window doesn't always drop down when exiting the car, making it impossible to open. I wonder if this might have something to do with the lock mechanism, as well. The remote entry feature has not worked since buying the car, and I have yet to get that resolved (nearest dealership is an hour away). Thus, I'm not sure how this will work with the lock system if/when fixed. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? It seems to me that something might be loose since it behaves erratically when driving at times. I haven't popped the door panel off of the passenger door to take a look around--I just haven't had the time. Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated! Hopefully it'll save me a bit of time.

Change your ignition switch. New part is $11.49 at NADA and they keep them in stock. Takes at most an hour to swap out yourself. Easy DIY fix. Search and you will find lots of threads on how to do it. Last time I did it I was able to do it start to finish in 12 minutes. Don't take it to the dealer for this fix. The ignition switches go bad all the time in these cars - you should buy an extra one and keep it in the glove box (or door pocket since you've got a Mk I). This will be just the electrical switch behind the tumblers that your key goes into. A failing one will create lots of little electrical gremlins in your car. For me last time, it kept the frunk locked because an electrical actuator under the frunk release lever stuck in the locked position.

Most likely loose wiring but I had a similiar symptom in the past and found some corroded terminals on the immobilizer box under the driver's seat. Cleaned out those connectors and all was good. Porsche wasn't really thinking when they decided to put the alarm module(which also controls the door locks) at one of the lowest points in the car. You can also pull both door panels and check wiring/switches with a multi-meter.

My Boxster was manifesting the same symptoms and the problem proved to be the passenger door lock assembly. (The Boxster actually advanced to the point the window would drop when I opened the door but then go back up again once the door was open. The window made a horrible racket when I didn't notice the window was up when I closed the door and the top of the window contacted the roof rail, but the window never broke.) The tech used the Porsche diagnostic computer to pull the error codes and do some tests to confirm it was the door lock assembly. He told me later he did this in case the lock assembly wasn't bad as it is the most expensive door/window component. But it proved to be bad. You can check for dampness in the cabin. if you remove the door panel check for water or signs of water in the door.

Jonathan, try gently pulling on the passenger side interior door handle, not enough to actually open the door just enough to pull it away from the door. If the window doesn't crack, it's the window drop microswitch. If you look behind the door handle you'll see a little circle, the microswitch is behind that circle. When you pull open the handle you open the microswitch and it makes the window drop. They go bad pretty frequently and are cheap, but you have to pull the door panel to get to it. If that turns out to be the issue let me know, I have an extra new one from a 986 project that I'll make you a good deal on. There is another microswitch built into the latch assembly that is used to drop the window when opening the door from the outside, which seems to be the issue that Macster had. The door lock switch lighting up and the beeping basically indicates that the doors are locking on their own. I would check the connector on the door lock switch to make sure it is tight. You could also just disconnect the switch and drive like that for a little while, I believe the doors will still lock from the outside using the key. If the problem goes away with the switch out of the loop, then you've found your issue.

Thanks for the replies--sorry it has taken so long to get back to post. From what I can tell, the window drop microswitch seems to be working just fine. There are a few times where the window didn't drop at all, but from what I recall it's when the door locks were acting up. I wasn't sure if these issues were related, but it seems like they may be independent of one-another. Okay--what I have noticed paying attention is the passenger side window sometimes gets stuck at the top left where it meets the back glass. I can still get the door to open if I pull firmly, and it actually pops the back glass up a little to clear it. This has to be the primary sticking point. However, sometimes it works just fine. When the door is closed the seam between the passenger window and back glass is perfectly even--the windows are completely parallel. However, there must be something causing the glass to drop unevenly from time-to-time when opening the door. It's become a real pain--I've had the passenger door be completely stuck a couple of times with someone in the passenger seat. One last note--the problem seems to primarily occur when opening the door from the inside. However, I think that has more to do with the fact you're lifting up on the door slightly as you pull the handle from the outside, thus perhaps keeping the window from dropping behind the rear window. I can't say for sure, though... if I get some time I may run up and cycle the windows numerous times from the inside and out. With that said... when driving with the windows down, the passenger window has to be either all the way up or all the way down. If not, it rattles constantly. I'm not sure how the window is attached to the window control mechanism, but could something perhaps be broken? Regarding the door lock mechanism, does anyone have a picture of where it is located inside of the door panel? I'll try to Google it and see if I can fine anything, as well. OneWhippedPuppy--I'll also pop the connector off of the switch behind the dash panel--I assume that's what you meant.

I had this issue in my C4S also. In my case it was failed micro switches in the door handle assembly.

Last month the same thing happened with my 2002 C4S. I fiddled around with the door handle micro switches without any success. My window was also uneven, it was loose. There are two pads that hold the glass. Those are the ones you want to mess with, not the adjustors at the bottom of the doors. Once I got the window straight the window drop would only work occasionally. It was very frustrating. Bought a used door lock assembly off ebay for $60 bucks. Installed it and the window works perfectly. Very easy to install, good luck.

Quick question--I'm going to try to break into the door assembly this weekend and have a look. The last thing I want is to activate one of the side airbags accidentally. Is this even possible when removing the door panel? Is there anything else I need to watch out for when removing the panel?

Disconnect the battery before removing the panel. This will ensure that you don't get an error message when you disconnect the airbag.

Will I have to do anything to reset the electronics afterwards? Will I need to enter a radio security code for the factory stereo? Chicago Pete--I don't suppose you have any pictures from inside of your door?? I've watched a few videos on replacing the actuator, but I can't see where the two pads you mentions are located. Taking a closer look, my driver window has about a 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap between it and the back window. The passenger has about 1/2 as much. Looks like I might need to move it forward a bit. Also, is it easy to remove the gray cover over the door interior?? I read in one place to heat it up with a hairdryer during removal.

I'm not sure about the radio code on the MK I cars. On my C4S, I was required to enter the radio code. I used a hairdryer to help with the removal of the gray cover inside the door. It does help a little bit.

A radio code is needed with MY99 C2.

Jonathan, Several things since it's my old car....... Window sticking in the top left is a microswitch not causing it to dip correctly. That's where the window seats the deepest, that's where it will seem to stick. I had to fight this recently on a Boxster. If it's sticking when you open the door from the inside, I still think it's that inside microswitch. It should dip every time when you lightly pull the inside handle, and go right back up when you release it. Yes, I was suggesting that you disconnect the lock button to try and isolate that gremlin. Your car had the passenger side window regulator and motor replaced by the owner previous to me. They did a pretty poor job putting the vapor barrier back on, when I had the door panel off I re-stuck it with double sided 3M tape. You should be able to remove it pretty easily for inner door access. You will need a radio code. They went to MOST pairing for sure on the 987/997, I'm not sure about the 996.2. There is a print out from Porsche in your paperwork with your radio code on it, and I think (but I'm not certain) that I might have written it on the options sticker under the front hood. I personally don't bother disconnecting the battery when going into a door unless I'm actually messing with the airbag (never), you don't have to disconnect the airbag to remove the door panel. But the 100% safe way is to unhook the battery I suppose. The issue that Chicago Pete is referring to would be the exterior dip switch, which is built into the lock assembly. If the window dips correctly from the outside when pulling the handle, I doubt that is the issue. Here's some good reference material..... http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._and_Motor.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...nd_Handles.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...el_Removal.htm

I had completely forgotten... the car is still under warranty! LOL!! When the problem started it was completely an issue only when opening the door from the inside. However, it has gotten stuck a few times when opening it from the outside now. My day got away from me and I was unable to run a few cycles of both, but maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow. I might even shoot a video for a better look. The door lock issue has been (I think) diagnosed. If correct, the resolution should be easy enough. When I press the door lock button, the toggle switch doesn't "toggle". Thus, the switch remains closed. I'll disconnect it ASAP. Removing the lower panel is easy... does the top panel pop off like the bottom panel? As for disconnecting the battery, I'll check for the radio code and see if I can find it. As for the rattle in the passenger window when partially down, any thoughts? Again--no rattle when all the way up or all the way down. I still wonder if the window needs to be moved forward a bit. There is wind noise coming in at the front edge of the window when it's rolled up. If I place my hand there it goes away. It's almost like it doesn't sit deeply enough in the weatherstripping or else the weatherstripping doesn't close around the window tightly enough anymore.

Free lifetime tech support included with every purchase! The side panel with the lock button in it just snaps loose, pry carefully with something that won't scratch like a plastic putty knife. The lock button snaps into the trim panel, it's possible it has worked loose a little and wedged against the trim. Try it outside of the trim panel before you trash it. I always drove with the windows down or up, so I don't remember being annoyed by a rattle. It sounds like maybe the window is going down a little too far? Really all that holds it in place is the bottom two pinch bolts, with the top being guided by the felt weather strip across the top of the door. The Pelican article that I linked to earlier has instructions for adjusting the top/down travel, I think it is from the bottom of the door if I remember correctly.