Pro audio installation

So I went to two local places (Car Toys and a much higher-end place) to talk to them about speaker and amp installation for my 2002 C2 cab. Currently it has an Alpine single DIN head unit that I installed that drives the factory Bose speakers through the Bose amplifier. I've found that the factory Bose sub is incredibly boomy and have read a couple of solutions involving stuffing it or covering the interior of its enclosure with sound absorbent material (like Dynamat). Both are suggesting dual skinning the doors with Dynamat, installing a 5-channel amp and speakers in the doors and dash to create a 3-way system. They would use the current rear speakers and sub. Car Toys suggest Focal speakers and a JL Audio amp and came in at about $2100, of which probably $1200 was parts/gear. The high-end place suggest Audison speakers and a Kenwood Class-D amp and came in at about $3000 and this would involved custom building of any new baffles that are needed. While I'm sure that the results will be great, I'm not sure that I can see myself spending $2-3k on this project. Another option that I'm considering is to get the Audioleads amp harness that plugs into the factory loom to get to the speakers, but then I'd need to figure out how to run RCA cables to the head unit and also power the amplifier. I would also need to make some kind of mounting plate for the cross-overs. Then there's the question of which speakers to use that will not require significant modification to the factory grilles (like the JBL GTOs I keep reading about) and choosing an appropriate amp. Having never wired up the amp side of car audio, I have concerns about powering the amp and not creating a fire hazard. Let the opinions roll in...

I have done this by myself and it is doable. I have the deh-80prs by Pioneer. It sounds great and has internal crossover, no need to use the crossovers that come with the speakers and crowd the frunk. I also installed the 5 channel amp by Polk, that can drive the 1 ohm load of the subwoofer in the cab. As for speakers, I used the HSK 165. The tweeters are in the dash, the midrange/woofers are in the door. I only utilized the services of a pro installer to mount the door speakers with a custom baffle, and dynamatting the doors, cost $440. Installation of the tweeters is DIY, as well as the installation of the HU and the amp. Add $80 for cable (RCA, amp cable), ca. $70 for the audio leads harness, $300 for the HU, $260 for the amp and ca. $400 for the speakers (got a deal at a local store) you come out at ca. $1600 ( incl the custom baffles and misc small parts). Spend a day installing it, calibrate the HU (the deh-80prs has auto EQ, which can even out the sub's boominess to a great effect) and enjoy.

Thanks DrBrain. I'd love to see some pictures especially of the custom baffles. How hard was it to pull wire through the firewall from the amp to the HU and also hooking up to the battery?

I'm in the middle of doing a complete upgrade. Pulling the RCA's thru the firewall and the power hookup is fairly easy but it can be a little time consuming. You will also probably need to run a wire from the Head Unit to the Amp for remote turn on. See the link below for pictures and details. I have not gotten to the doors yet so I can't answer the door baffle question. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-underway.html

Thanks FLY996. Very thorough thread and very timely. I might well be PMing you

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If you decide not to DIY this project, make sure the installer knows these cars. Your basic chain (Audio Express) are not used to doing installs on Porsches especially with MOST. Also, you really should replace the speakers as well. They are the weak link in the system so you would not get your money's worth if you did everything else and left the OEM speakers in place. I had a custom installer put in a Pioneer Double Din unit, new amp and all new speakers. Cost for everything was $2100. Good luck!

I think that it ultimately comes down to your own personal level of comfort with car audio systems and with your ability to disassemble and reassemble your 996. Time is also a factor. I've installed stereo equipment in plenty of cars. That being said, I wasn't comfortable enough with my knowledge of the electronic systems of the 996 that I wanted to take on the job myself. I was also worried about the appearance of the finished project. I've seen photos of many, many double-DIN installations that look very bad. I didn't want my installation to look like a second rate hack job. Finally, I simply didn't have time to take my 996 apart and do this job myself. I decided to bite the bullet and pay a professional to do the job. I couldn't be happier with the results.

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Thanks for the advice and price check. Fortunately/unfortunately, I live in an area with many Porsches and other higher end cars due in no small part to amount of highly paid Microsoft and other tech people around here. As a result,mSeattle's Eastside is littered with boutique auto shops for everything (detailing, audio, upholstery, you name it.) The local Car Toys has done numerous 996 installs and the other place's sales guy who I worked with has a 997 having recently got rid of his Bentley GT! That's the good/bad part: familiarity with higher end cars and high standards/high prices and budgets (a Ferrari was getting a $20k install while I was talking to the guy.)

You should start with the JBL GTO 3.5 inch, and 5.25 inch in the dash, door panels and bose sub box (behind rear seats on coupe). Very easy DIY. Dynamat also is very easy DIY on the door panels, since you need to remove those anyway to install new door panel speakers. You can buy an 8 to 10 pack of dynamat extreme for $85.00 on the web. Do your doors and under the bose sub box/carpet/engine area. All in you can be happy with about 300 to $500 spend. If you are still unhappy with sound quality then go pay someone to add the external amp and/or head unit at a far lower cost than doing the easy parts. I'm very happy right now with just the JBL upgrade with stock head unit/PCM II, bose amp and MoBridge for Iphone/Ipod. The truth is at highway speeds on rough road I doubt anything will sound great. But, the JBL and dynamat alone sound good enough and I now never need to put it on at full volume for good sound. I could not justify the 3 to 6k quotes I was getting on a complete system on a 2004 model year car with 65k. Maybe on my next newer porsche I would add the extra amp and new head unit. I ultimately decided I would upgrade my IMS and suspension before dropping 3 to 6k on the stereo. I also recently bought the upgraded map update for PCM II from Suncoast, so at least the nav maps are updated. I still use Google Map apps on my iPhone sometimes too. Add in a pro clip for IPHONE at another 80 bucks or so and it all works well. (I also had the Mobridge for Iphone/Ipod installed when I bought the car 2 years ago -- so that definitely helps too, but CDs would sound just as good w/o it). The tools I used were basic torx bits, door panel/trim removal kit, screw drivers, wire stripper/cutter, and the dremel to open up the door panel bose 5.25 inch plastic speaker enclosures a bit for the new 5.25 JBL speakers in the door panels, scissors to cut dynamat and a paint scraping tool (metal end) and bar tender's steel/metal muddler to press the dynamat down and get out creases (or use a heavy duty roller). The only tools I had to buy that were not already in my tool kit was the door panel removal tools. You can pick up a dremel or similar now for 50 bucks at Home Depot and use the sanding disc attachment to enlarge the opening. Everything else was plug and play with a screw/torx driver. I also purchased some new door trim panel clips at the dealer for $1 or $2.00 per clip. Not saying that my install is as clean as a professional, but the difference in sound quality is noticeable immediately. I started with one side of the car and used the fader and balance control to compare stock side to new side with doors closed and what a difference. I have heard the focal speakers installed by a professional high end shop with subs, external amps and new Pioneer AVIC double din head unit (though not in a Porsche and that could account for bad acoustics) and quite frankly, I think the JBL's sound better to me. You could wire the amp under the passenger side seat, which is what I've seen many pro shops do on the Porsche for various reasons, including keeping noise out of the system. I've done car stereo installs, cell phone and car alarms installs many years ago (i.e., high school and college)and it is simply not that difficult, just be patient and look online for similar postings. Off to the festival of speed -- so any of you rennlisters who want to hear the JBL's are more than welcome to track down my car -- not hard to spot since it is the 40th AE with Colorado plates.

Thanks sds911. Which speakers did you put where and will the 528 fit the sub box in the passenger footwell on a cab or is if for the rear seats on the coupe? I just installed the ProClip yesterday and it is great though expensive for what it is.

I used the 528s for the front door speakers in my 996 C2 40th AE with Bose system, not a Cab. I used the 328 in the dash and rear door panel stock fitment ring. I left the Bose tweeter in place, but may still remove it at some point. I'm still trying to decide if it complements the system or simply is a bit too bright and harsh. I don't know what size is in the sub for the Cabriolet bose enclosure. You can measure it and find the corresponding GTO speaker to fit. I originally had planned on using the 5.25 in the bose sub box (in the rear on the coupe), but ended up putting in the JBL GTO 628 (6.5 inch) in the Bose sub box since I could squeeze them in by hand, although the stock Bose were closer to 5.25 and the GTO 528 were a direct fit replacement. I probably spent two Saturdays mornings-afternoons doing all speakers and Dynamat. But, you probably could also buy the JBL speakers on line and take it to a shop to do the install for labor cost only. To remove the dash speakers on the coupe you simply remove 2 torx screws, pull out speaker assembly, remove several small philips head screws and put in new 328 GTOs. Probably 30 minute install -- hardest part is getting out the rear torx screw -- need to start with small torx ratchet/hand tool and remove remainder by hand or low depth ratchet since it will hit windshield as you start to get it out a bit. I have a low depth craftsman ratchet set from Sears and started with that and finished taking it out by hand. The door panels were about 3 or 4 screws too, torx, philips and hex if I recall along with door clips that you really can pop out by hand or with door trim panel removal tool. Remove the two wires behind door panel and remember to take a picture of which wire goes to which plug (white and black plugs if I recall correctly). Prop door panel carefully so as not to strain the long white plastic line for the door lock or window mechanism (can't recall what it was connected to, but you can find my prior post with links to door panel removal instructions on web). Rear speakers in coupe are simple and again 2 torx screws -- similar to dash. Rear bose sub very simple, not sure about your cab bose sub however. I can take the car apart tomorrow and take some pictures if you are interested and if it would help clarify the install for others considering doing the same. Should have done that when I did the install. Not to ding the high end stereo shops, but realistically they are out to sell you the highest priced system you can afford. The JBL speakers are good quality and especially for a loud interior like a porsche 996 I'm not sure you really will hear the difference with the 3,000 to 6,000 system they want to sell you. I would love to hear someone's expensive system versus mine to see if it really makes a difference when on the road. Back in the day, I had Paris Audio do some custom work on my Toyota Supra and I was very pleased with their work, custom speaker mounts, speakers and amp and probably spent 2 to 3k all in, but the Porsche is a relatively small (yet loud) cabin and I think the 2 ohm JBLs satisfy my need for good clear, warm sound. I'd like a bit more punch from the door speakers but for the price and DIY install I'm not going to complain. The 328/528/628 are relatively inexpensive right now and a high end stereo ship is not going to make a lot of profit selling those to you. So, they aren't going to mention them either as a direct replacement which will allow you to keep your stock bose amp. I agree that the stock bose sub enclosure is pretty poor, but I'm happy with dropping in the two 628s, adding some foam, and I still have dynamat left to put around the exterior enclosure. I'm sure a new custom box with real subwoofers would sound even better, but I'm not willing to drop $1000 to $2000 for that at the moment. Saving for my 2009 and up 911 C4 or C4S and/or new IMS/AOS/Water pump upgrades for my 996.

Maybe I will need to stop by Dennis's place in Evergreen on my next trip to Granby to hear his system, since he did the full upgrade.

Hi, I'm looking to upgrade my 01 996 carr4cab. Which custom installer did you use? I've been getting quotes for around 4.5k, well beyond my budget for this. I'm in the Laguna Beach area, but will travel a bit to get the job done for the right price. Thanks for any info.

When I had my C4S, I covered the back of the factory Bose subwoofer box with Dynamat and stuffed some speaker baffling into it, it cost under $20 and made a world of difference in the sound quality.

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You're welcome to stop by any time!

Thanks Dennis, would love to hear your setup. For Artemis A - try La Jolla Audio in San Diego, or Al & Eds in Marina Del Rey posts their installs on Rennlist.

I did my own work w/ high-end parts and great support from Rod at CAI (one of this site's sponsors) - came out great, I learned a lot about my car and saved a bunch of dough. His sub enclosures are custom made for the 996 cab and make a world of difference. Best of luck w/ your project!

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Maybe I'll meet you in Granby this summer. My wife and I are considering purchasing a second home there. Probably a condo or townhouse, but not sure yet.

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Did you just stuff the baffling into the sub box port holes?

Here's my DIY from a few years ago. May help with some of your questions. Regards! http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...50-photos.html

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I don't remember exactly what I did now, it was awhile ago. If I recall correctly, I actually opened the box up to stuff it by removing all the screws around the perimeter.