17 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDIY - Water pump & Thermostat
Reported or suspected cause
moving the engine support bracket far enough
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
The biggest problem was moving the engine support bracket far enough to make room but it wasn't that tricky.
Leading evidence: 'moving the engine support bracket far enough' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'moving the engine support bracket far enough' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean threads good' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Since I had my mufflers out for another job at the same time (ignition coils) I also replaced all of the muffler nuts with copper ones.
Replace with stainless steel nuts and carriage bolts hoping
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced with stainless steel nuts and carriage bolts hoping that they wouldn't corrode as the previous ones had done.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
- I used a bit of sticky puddy to hold the last water pump bolt in the socket when re-inserting.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Video looks easy - hard parts are getting hoses off - I used flat blade screw driver to work them off but still took time to do it carefully.
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Suggestion
Fill coolant tank to max cold initially - thermostat has to open all the way for all coolant to flow into system and it took me approximately one extra gallon after that to top off ...
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
With a universal and a long extension it worked well to do all of the bolts.
After a visual inspection (see pic) and not knowing the car's history prior to 12/2012.... -> I'm going to give the water pump/thermostat replacement project a try!
I read all of the POVs and went with the original Porsche parts including the thermostat. I have seen a couple of the Videos and web sites with excellent Pics that I will use as guides.
Any tips/tricks/tools or other posts welcome.
I will be reading this, I have the parts to do this job and will start next week. My car is 11 years old and has 43000 miles with original pump.
John
'03 Targa
Video looks easy - hard parts are getting hoses off - I used flat blade screw driver to work them off but still took time to do it carefully. Last bolt on pump - tackle from above with 1/4" ratchet , using screw driver to press the ratchet head against the bolt...
You have to remove thermostat to remove pump ...and have to remove rigid pipe on side of engine to get to thermostat bolts.
I used gasket sealant on thermostat and wp gasket - as shown in one video - id get more opinions on if that is recommended or not.
Also - follow pelican instructions carefully to fill/ bleed system after. I used Pentosin sf coolant- $12.99/ ltr at o'reilly auto parts plus same amount of distilled water. Fill coolant tank to max cold initially - thermostat has to open all the way for all coolant to flow into system and it took me approximately one extra gallon after that to top off ...
Some recommend to use redline water wetter - I didn't
All the parts arrived. I plan to replace it tomorrow. I went with the Porsche red coolant, Porsche water pump, and Porsche replacement thermostat (not the low temp after market version).
I did mine this winter. The tips I followed for the job included
- I bought a 1/4" drive torque wrench for the water pump bolts. With a universal and a long extension it worked well to do all of the bolts.
- I used to the Uview Airlift coolant fill tool to flush and refill the coolant. Probably not completely necessary, but it was fun to use
- I tried to do a full coolant flush by removing the under-body panels and disconnecting hoses. But it was a PITA on jack stands and I definitely wouldn't recommend it. There is a recent DIY on here to flush the system by adding pressure from the top that would be _much_easier
- label the position of each bolt on removal. I just numbered them with masking tape
- I didn't use any sealant other than the metal gasket. No leaks
- pressure test the system with the Uview tool as soon as the system was sealed. Just in case there was a leak that would require pulling it out again.
- I used a bit of sticky puddy to hold the last water pump bolt in the socket when re-inserting. If it falls it is easy enough to find, but it is a bit tricky to start the bolt
Best advice I can lend: Remove the idler pulley above the pump and pull it out from above instead of trying to get it out the bottom of the car. After an hour trying to get it out from below, I removed one bolt for the idler pulley and had the pump out in 30 seconds.
I considered that when I was replacing mine, but I didn't really have much difficulty removing it from the bottom. But that was with the thermostat removed. I imagine it would be much more difficult or impossible with the thermostat in. The biggest problem was moving the engine support bracket far enough to make room but it wasn't that tricky.
Wow! What a PITA.... I am not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined and I worked on my dirt bikes as a kid...
I just got finished tightening the last bolt and I'm taking a break. My Porsche friend with similar mechanical tendencies (also with an 04 C4S cab in need of a water pump) stopped over to help.
Pump cam out no issue from below and new one slid right in. The old pump looked good but it was really loose to spin.
So next is to hookup the hoses, fill it up, and burp it.
Oh- I broke both bolts on the exhaust claps (both sides) so I have another side project going on how to best address that too....
Stay tuned and thanks to everyone for posting information and advise - I read it all and couldn't have tackled it without your help.
Stay tuned....
Wow! What a PITA.... I am not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined and I worked on my dirt bikes as a kid...
I just got finished tightening the last bolt and I'm taking a break. My Porsche friend with similar mechanical tendencies (also with an 04 C4S cab in need of a water pump) stopped over to help.
Pump came out no issue from below and new one slid right in. The old pump looked good but it was really loose to spin.
So next is to hookup the hoses, fill it up, and burp it.
Oh- I broke both bolts on the exhaust claps (both sides) so I have another side project going on how to best address that too....
Stay tuned and thanks to everyone for posting information and advise - I read it all and couldn't have tackled it without your help.
Stay tuned....
FWIW. My exhaust clamps came apart easily enough but the bolts were pretty rusty. I replaced with stainless steel nuts and carriage bolts hoping that they wouldn't corrode as the previous ones had done. I read about potentially galling issues when using stainless fasteners on the exhaust but my conclusion was that it isn't a problem in practice especially after the cats and muffler.
Since I had my mufflers out for another job at the same time (ignition coils) I also replaced all of the muffler nuts with copper ones.
If you apply copper or nickel based antiseize to the threads of the bolts and nuts, you shouldn't have any problems removing them in the future. Just clean the threads good with a steel brush before applying antiseize.
Wow - Feels great!
I was able to get the broken bolt out of the exhaust clamp nut and picked-up two new ones at the local hardware store. Had them on before I read your post about anti-seize....
New pump - new thermostat - no leaks! Just got back from my test drive. Temp stopped just over the 180 line like always. It needed about another quart of coolant after the burp drive too. Ready for the weekend!!!
