150k Mile Major Service Build Thread: Variocam, UAOS, Clutch, etc.

Alright guys, I’m taking the plunge. Engine’s scoped - top notch. No tick, no smoke, no oil usage (1 electric readout bar per 2k+ miles (250 ml ish). Running Molygen 5W40 year-round (5W50 if tracking after this). Owned a year (July 4th), 150k miles, 6-speed C2 coupe, tracked, one owner for 100k, I’ve done 10k. Oil changes every 5-10k.Car has FVD x51 deep sump and m030 suspension. Car was tracked and daily driven. Its tired but still strong bottom end Issues: Clutch is dead - bites 1" from top, smells, whole nine yards. Next, Variocam deviation: 13� and 6� - not good. Runs smooth, deviation steady (not IMSB fail). Oil filter clean except one magnetic shaving (IMSB?). IMSB is 80k old $200 Pelican part yikes. Not fixing trans howl (dying RnP). Considering Gbox later? Please give me a msg if you have a 996.1 g96 transmission for sale. Car still runs nicely, I just dont thrash it, no full throttle right now. Clutch still grabs well enough for daily ish driving Goal: Am I forgetting anything ? I’ve read endlessly, called every shop (nobody under $14k), seen Jay drop an engine at Slakker (shoutout Brandon), watched variocam jobs online (FunaheadTV, etc). Got rebuilt actuators from a Boxster for $50 on ebay then rebuild @ Slakker vs. $1500 each brand new! Here is the thing, I will be doing this DIY at a friends shop who is like 30 mins from the nearest parts store so I want to have everything I possibly can! So far, my list of major parts is as follows: UAOS kit (w/ track drain) LN IMS bearing retrofit (dual row confirmed by PO... (this will be the 2nd replacement IMSB in this engine)) Clutch Kit + Flywheel (all parts are now OEM porsche, returned victor reinz stuff) LUK and Saches 997 C2/C4 S oil cooler (tall) + seals - Behr VarioCam Actuators (5 chain version rebuilt via Brandon's team @ Slakker Racing Dev in OKC) + cam to cam chains and new pads New Starter and 997 Positive Battery Cable (Slow hot crank issue currently w/ good battery). - Bosch New LN engineering water pump kit - Pierburg Various Exhaust Gaskets New Coolant Hoses (front/side of engine only (not replacing ones that don't need removed)) PTFE Porsche RMS (the new one that succeeds the old Part Number) Odds and ends + whatever came with these various kits (like crk and cam pos sensors).... am also considering replacing any T's or Y vacuum hoses? Help But wait, there's more - I also need Special Porsche Tools: RMS tool (Had PVC pipe fitting from PO but not willing to risk) IMS tool (have from PO and new IMSB kit) Cam Holding tool (top) - need or could be held down by a friend or so they say Cam Holding tool (end slots) - need Variocam Compression tool / bolt (Brandon gave me one!) Crank TDC tool / pin (have from IMS kit from PO) For all the cam stuff and the RMS, I was considering these two from Amazon: Cam Tools (plus top end tool) Cam Tools (plus top end tool) RMS tool RMS tool Any thoughts on these? I am interested in any used tools you the reader may have! And for the record, I have a Durameteric tool I can use. So really, all I am doing is required service items + (nearly) unreachable parts (ie AOS)... unable to upload or attach images from my album?? Picture of the chili pepper haha

Belt and pulleys? Fuel injectors? What�s the voltage on the alternator now (positive cable is key, but it might be worth doing the ground cable off the side of the engine) Tensioners? Just items on my 100k mile 04 .2 projects�.. -Eric

Sounds about right, doing the same thing on my car later this year. I am thinking of doing the solution, but if so, will wait until black Friday, but I do see they give 10% off for vets, which I am, which I qualify for.

Replace the wonky oil filler with this one with the track drain. It eliminates the flexible and breakable element of the oil filler. I have been using mine with the UAOS. Here is the link: 9ii 9ii.pro

@Bloku_ , congrats man! Good list. I went thru the same thing 3 years ago with my 2nd 10 year refresh. Makes road trips a worry free breeze. Consider fuel injectors, plugs, coils, oxy sensors, MAF, oil sender unit, if they are old. They all eventually go. Also, take a good look at the power steering components for condition. You will eventually spring a leak. Plenty of threads on the topic. Good luck with the refresh. The 996 is worth it. On another note, is that a 914 in the background?

Quotes source post: 20117902

This is a great upgrade. Its on my to do list.

+1

Quotes source post: 20117902

Sorry I've seen some waste of money products in the past but this has to be at the near the top of the list. Why was the guy selling these banned?

Quotes source post: 20117525

All of those inexpensive timing kits seem to be the same. Used mine several times without issue. Look around ebay and you'll probably find one a little cheaper. There is a 3d printer file around for an rms tool. If you cant find it I can dig it up. The aluminum one you listed looks to maybe work a little better that the one I have. I would definetly do new injectors if you can't verify newer ones being in there.

Replace the 2 small variocam chains and verify the 3 tensioners r operating. They r spring loaded and i had one that was jammed causing ims chain rattle.

Nice refresh list !!

Do you have a center radiator, Bloku? You�re going to need it with the bigger oil cooler. And I would recommend the replacing the spark plug tubes while you�re at it.

Quotes source post: 20117902

The oil filler upgrade is also available at LN: 9ii "The Antidote" Fit and Forget Porsche 996/997 Oil Filler Tube for UAOS

Quotes source post: 20118963

Please explain the need for a center radiator. 997s don�t have one. Agree about spark plug tubes although you can just buy new seals.

Upgraded coil packs? Coolant reservoir?

Eric Kessel - Got belts and pullie. Need injectors. New alternator installed. Same w/ tensioner. Trying to get everything I cant access later Paul Waterloo - I was considering solution but its only valid if a "10 step verified shop" does the work... I am not sooo I went retrofit for the sticker 996-CAB - Now that is something to burn my money on! Too bad I just got the new style filler with track drain direct from the UAOS guys. Worst case, its breaks one day and I know exactly what to buy lol! GC996 - Why thx you I am wondering how this service changed your car... I see you track your car, good stuff or no change really? I will be doing injector, plugs, no coils (could do later), maybe OXY sensors (can also do later), oil sender (never even considered), and my MAF is new. I will be inspecting the power steering though as its oem. I just sprung a coolant leak at that little plastic fitting on the bottom left of the power steering pump... Great. Had a wet header after sitting and got really scared hahah! hbdunn - Glad to hear that the cheapo kits work! I was going to give these to my friend as he needs to do the same fix to his 2000 996... What a beauty. Also, will be doing the injectors. I am surprised that yall are big on the injector replacement... One thing I am also doing is a fuel filter replacement! Figured its had 1000's of gallons of fuel in it, a few crumbs sneak in. De Jeeper - Yea, that is the #2 item on my list right behind clutch. 2x new cam-to-cam chains, and 2x nicely rebuilt variocam actuators + solenoids. I also already have all 3 chain tensioners as well! This is as close to a full VVT job as I can do. PO found "green bits" in the oil filter 30k ago. After lots of detective work, we believe this to be a variocam actuator partial failure. Porschetech3 - Thank you sir Porsche tech! 996love - I do not have that center rad. After lots of reading, I dont think I need it even in the Texas Oklahoma. Just keep the highspeed fans on, and youre good. 2991c2cab - I have a new reservoir installed, and I am considering upgraded coil packs! IDK though as mine are fine and I can access them. Thanks guys for all your replies!!

Quotes source post: 20119396

In answer to your question, properly functioning parts certainly help with engine responsiveness, but also help with preventing cause and effect issues. As an example, fuel injectors, oxy sensors effect air/fuel ratios and ultimately borescoring. Without a properly functioning MAF, plugs, coils, oil pressure sender unit, etc. you have other hickup issues that cause cells when you dont want them. But no question, there are parts that can cause catastrophic failure if they fail (AOS, iMSB, water pump), and parts that can cause engine failure over a long period of time leading to bore scoring (injectors, oxy sensors), and parts that cause cells and are just a pita when they break and may leave you stranded (coolant hoses or tank) or can just be messy (power steering components), or just scare the hell out of you with an ugly cell (oil sender). Just comes down to what you want with your car. I want to be able to get in the car and without worry drive to the track, put in some good lap times, and then drive home and be able to take my wife out to dinner in the car. Same can be said for deciding at the last minute that I want to drive from Chicago to Phila and back to visit family. So I spend the money to prevent engine catastrophes and keep it running in top form without worries. Others have the DIY gene and can repair and replace items as they fail. No right or wrong answer just personal preference. But imho, there is nothing better than a well sorted and maintained 996.

Quotes source post: 20119298

The plastic tubes can only withstand so many heat cycles before they get brittle. It�s best to address them while the engine is out. I read a post recently about someone trying to change them while the engine was in the car, breaking a few pieces off necessitating valve cover removal to retrieve them. (What a pain!) Porschetech3 has a few posts starting here (click me) about the oil cooler and its possible role in bore scoring. I think it�s a valid point, especially given the oil cooler�s location - sitting directly above cylinder 6. Better to spend a little more on the center radiator, than to not and succumb your refreshed engine to bore score. If those 997s don�t have a center radiator paired with their larger oil coolers, then this may help explain why they score their engines so alarmingly frequently. Plus, Bloku said he�s going to track the car so the center radiator will provide him a larger margin of safety.

Quotes source posts: 20120044, 19634330

Yeah, i remember reading Skips thoughts on this. Was an eye opener. I just spoke to Skip about a day before your post on this and asked him about this very thing. If I understood him correctly, a 3rd radiator used with the larger 997 S oil cooler can help to mitigate the heat risk. But the key is to run the center radiator with it to facilitate better cooling. I suspect that running the larger LN cayman oil cooler in the muffler area, which eliminates the oil cooler over bank 2 and therefore heat, would probably be the optimal solution. But you have to run a center muffler system which FSI/LN developed recently, as well as change your rear bumper to accomodate. For sure, you can just eliminate the mufflers as well and run straight pipes and to use your oem rear bumper.

@GC996 & @996love , Now I like the way you guys are thinking! I think a set of plugs, coils, and injectors are in order along with spark plug tube seals and stuff Why not. I am not a fan of random little things breaking and causing me trouble. Like you said, GC, I want to road trip. About that oil cooler - I think that logic is possible. I am sure its just one of many contributing items though. I am not too sure but I kind of remember a thread talking about routing a duct up from the bottom of the car to aim right at the oil cooler. I know its not an air-oil heat exchanger but some air in that engine bay couldn't hurt either (unless its somehow funneling water or something ridiculous up there :P I daily this 75% of the time and "dont want to come back". Maybe in the 2030s! I dont want any more major service other than that transmission replacement in my future. I might need bottom end work in the far future but I feel this engine has 10s of thousands of more miles on those bearings and cylinders.I also talked to the guys at slakker about what dies on the bottom end and they said that the bearings go on these engines more than the bore scoring... They said this bearing wear is mostly bc people are oil starving them in turns due to bringing a stock car with no sump, mobile 1 crap at 0w40 and then ***** to the wall with some R comps and wondering why it died.... After talking to Brandon and reading that long 75 page forum about oil pressure, it seems the answer is simple: Just run some heavy race oil and make sure you have a 0.6L+ (correctly) baffled deep sump (x51 or better) and you will mitigate 90% of like 4 psi drops. Also, keeping the engine and oil cool is the answer. I've strongly considered a third radiator but decided against it as its more complexity and the high speed fan mod should be able to offset the temp. IDK though. My issue is as follows: it gets cold here... like 10s or 20s *F in the winter. I my temp never gets above 77*C due to that low temp t stat. My 986 boxster with a stock T stat runs like 85*C in the cold of winter. I cant help but think a 3rd center rad might over cool my poor car in the winter. Id like to keep temps above 80*C winter and below 110*C peak during summer tracking. Above or below that seems bad for the engine and I am not sure a 3rd rad is the answer. I'd love to though. Maybe I put the plastic piece I will need to cut out for the 3rd rad install as a block off plate for it during the winter? That way, any extra cooling is offset?

Quotes source post: 20121978

I would stick with the 996 oil cooler for now. You have an extra 0.5 qts of oil with the new sump and the opportunity to run 2 more quarts with the UAOS Track or 2.5 more with both the sump and UAOS T. You will have 20-25 min on the track at high rev ranges before temps get out of control. High quality oil with more viscosity that can handle high temps will help. You can always go with a 997s oil cooker and 3rd radiator at a later time. What i would do is get @Coopduc digital oil temp gauge. Incredibly helpful tool that i wish was available 22 years ago. Allows to to measure temps constantly.

@GC996 , did some more research and found that you did or wished you had done the 997 S cooler on like post 58 of this forum? https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...weekend-4.html I would like to get as much time on track as possible and never have to leave early for the sake of heat. 20-25 is enough for a quick session but I cant help feel that 40mins or indefinite would be the real goal! Therefore, if a third radiator and the S cooler is what it takes, so be it. Do give the link below a quick look as its what I am thinking of getting. I know not all kits are created equal and nor am I much of a fan of adding further complexity to the already complex 996, but screw it! I also just got only 22mpg driving with like no throttle and am thinking that the coils, plugs, and injectors replaced would be smart along with a new fuel filter. Thoughts on this kit? - https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...fO3u5egOeX1i07 Thanks

Thats a good deal on the third radiator. Yeah, i had my engine out 3 years ago to refresh everything and refreshed the 996 oil cooler with a new one. Then i found out the 997S cooler fit and had wished i had used it instead of the 996 cooler. Along the way I was wrestling with how to fit the LN Caymen Oil cooler in my 996 without removing the mufflers, as well as if their was a sausage shaped cooler that i could fit along the trans. Unfortunately, no go. So I will go with the 997S cooler sometime this year or next. As mentioned earlier, the key to using it according to Skip is having the 3rd radiator. To your comments, absolutely, if you want to track the car, you might as well go with the 997S cooler and third radiator. I would also consider replacing the FVD 0.6 qt mini sump with either a 2 qt deep sump or the UIDS. Reason is more oil to cure for oil starvation. The 0.6 qt sump doesn't do much. Remember, the key ingredient is the UAOS Track with a 2qt deep sump or UIDS. The UAOS T is the only AOS that can safely handle and process all the oil. The factory AOS cant, nor can the Motorsports AOS. And you need lots and lots of oil in the M96, and you will be able to solve for oil starvation and oil pressure stability. Lots of oil also helps you to keep oil temps under control for the first 20 min on the track as well. If you are spending the money, you should get @Coopduc digital oil temp gauge. Makes all the difference in the world to monitoring oil temps.

GC996, what kind of oil temps are you typically seeing on track with your combination of mods?

Quotes source post: 20123308

I get to 240 for oil temps. Key is to get off the track between 20-25 min. Any longer and they will go substantially higher. The second key is to run 12.5 qts of oil. Keeps it cooler for longer. But it will escalate and swamp the water cooling, hence exiting between 20-25 min.

Quotes source post: 20123448

This has not been my experience doing many 50 minute sessions at WG. End of lap 6 229 End of lap 22 232 87 degree day in July

****�. The fact that it continues to climb after 20 minutes is very concerning.

Quotes source post: 20123572

Really? I don't think so as every car I've been in on a racetrack seems to have temps continue to rise and fall based on several factors. Lap 22 was not 20 minutes later it was 33. The point of my post was to offer data that shows my experience to be different than what the previous poster had said was theirs. It did not dramatically rise after a 20 minutes into a session. Here is the graph that shows the oil and coolant.

I forget what you�ve done to address cooling on the track. Could you remind me?

Alot of variables. Quite a bit depends on how many long straights when you are on the throttle for extended periods of time which creates heat. A good example of this is Road America which has 3 long straights that in our 996s we can get above 140 mph. But it takes a long time on the throttle to hit those speeds. Huge heat can develop in our cars that can range between 250-290. At 290, you can kiss your engine goodbye. If you have the chance, attend the annual PCA Club race at Road America over labor day weekend. Lots of problems develop during the longer races (enduro) due to heat. Not alot of 996s racing anymore, but plenty of spec boxsters because the engines are cheaper. Shorter tracks aren't as big of a deal. Because you are on the gas, then on the brakes. Longer tracks, you are on the gas for a much longer time.

Hey guys, thanks for the info! I will be getting that 650 dollar 3rd rad kit (good price!). I think this is every mod in the book. @996love , are you asking what setup @GC996 or what @hbdunn is running? Maybe we can see what the difference is between their setups and nail down why GC is getting that 20min temp climb?? While on the topic, have you guys heard of a "fuel cooler"? I have one on my car that I found while replacing my AC air compressor (condenser?). I think its OEM or dealer installed?? On the cold AC line out, it runs into a special canister that is a heat exchanger for the FUEL line! Very interesting. Some people said you could run the AC ON on the track and it might keep temps down as the fuel would not heat soak?! I look forwards to testing this out! Is the minus like -3 hp worth the cooler fuel? Alright, so I will be doing the following: Three radiators (center rad addition) Hi-speed fan mod (switch keeps fans running on hi), 997 S oil cooler (oil-water exchanger) Fuel cooler (works if AC is on. Might be worth it on track), FVD deep sump (0.6L addition + x51 gates) Thick oil for track (5w50 or 10w50, or even 20w60 on hardcore) Low temperature T stat and new pump Finally, I would like to go to a deep sump but currently, my driveway has a steep approach where I only have 1cm of sump clearance right now so I am afraid to go more on a street car... It'd be too low for peace of mind. I've never scraped and hate scraping with a passion. I had a slammed vw ghia and man I could not stand the constant scraping

Some 996 3.4's had the fuel cooler and all 996 Turbo's have it. I don't think it makes much difference. I suppose it is for when sitting in a traffic jam on a really hot day. The fuel pressure regulator would be bypassing most of the fuel supply. The recirculating fuel would get hotter every time through the fuel pump. So running the fuel through a cooler might help. Porsche must have decided it isn't worth the bother as no 3.6's have them.

Quotes source post: 20124180

Mine had that cooler to my dismay the first time i tried to remove the AC compressor. It's now tiewrapped in place with no more AC in the car.

Quotes source post: 20124165

@Bloku_ I hate to see someone pulled in so many directions when trying to do what's best for their car. I would say the best advice is fix what's wrong first then proceed. At least get the motor out of the car an see what you are dealing with. You posted a thread about your engine a while back and Skip gave you great advice. " Personally, I would find a shop to replace the 4 plastic vairo-cam pads, also the 4th-5th small timing chains and rebuilt the Actuators all while the engine was still in the car.. This is very doable by a competent Porsche Specialist...( like heart valve replacement without doing "open heart surgery" ) Then just drive on !!" The engine has 150K and I believe you said the previous owner tracked it! I have averaged 3k/yr of track miles over the past 5 years. I expect that it will fail and I am fine with that because everyday it doesn't makes me even happier. The mod that has given me the most piece of mind is the UAOS and then maybe the Hartech deep sump. Not really much else needs to be done on a car that's also driven on the street. On my car I added a $200 used center radiator and removed the ac condensor along with the fans. Good luck happy to answer any questions that I have real life experience with, or with info that comes from a source I trust. There are only about three of those on this board that qualify.

Quotes source post: 20124245

Hey, I am in agreement. Good thing is all those mods are done except the 997 cooler and 3rd radiator. Other than that, I am on the fence about all new injectors and all new plugs and coils... Thats easily an additional 1.5k. The bad MPG I got on my recent trip made me think I could benifit from new injectors and packs. I once suffered a missfire (only CEL ive gotten in 10k mile) and it was missfire. After I drove it a few miles, it stopped missing. I had it sitting out all day and night in the rain to check if its water-tight. It was, but that missfire made me think she has a cracked coil pack (unconfirmed). I already bought the 997 S cooler. I am (again) considering the 3rd radiator. If they used 3rd rad on the Tips and GT3, I can't go wrong, esp for 650 dollars. About the variocam - I also have the cam-to-cam chains (IWIS) and rebuilt VarioCam acutators from Slakker. I sourced them from a boxster (exact same part) and then had them rebuilt by the guys at Slakker Racing / Hartec OKC. They look fantastic. Let me drop some pictures for the crowd Oh yea that fuel cooler thing gave me a scare! OK, now looking at the injectors, I am unsure what one to use. Normally I expect the parts from 2000 to fit the 2001, but here is saying otherwise?! Let me check the PET. I am unsure if my car runs the skinny type? Skinny Injector - https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...2-00-M114&fc=Y Fat Injector - https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...8aAlCFEALw_wcB

Quotes source post: 20124337

It's a 2001? My 2001 used these, https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/138523...IaAmdcEALw_wcB Edit didn't see your links. Coil packs I could go either way. They are not that bad to do with engine in car, injectors are much more difficult. 2001 had some changes that carried on to 2002+ Injectors and coolant tank are the ones I know for sure.

Was going to keep my opinion to myself, but since others have also hinted at it, here is my 2cents... Not really sure of what you meant by this quote from your first post here... "no oil usage ( 1 electric readout bar per 2k+ miles (250 ml ish) ." Does that mean 1 dash gauge bar of oil is used every 250 miles...? You've got a huge list of to do things. With engine out of car, and torn down to Valve Covers off, Cams out, actuators out, clutch/flywheel off, IMSB/RMS out, WP/tstat/belt/pullys off, oil cooler out, sump plate off, exhaust system off, starter/+cable off, various hoses off, etc.... Seems your 150,000 mile, uses oil, raced engine,, will be out of car and half(?) torn down. To me, if you desire a daily driver dependable car you can thrash on the track, 150k bottom end on a previous owner tracked car is not that engine... If everything was working fine now, and it had 150k, ok drive it. But thats not what you have. You have an engine that already shows considerable wear. The cam deviation and very high mileage (oil usage?) shows that. Your engine imho is not one I'd go half a$$ on and put into all that money/parts/time you listed above. Once internal parts start to wear in an engine most all other parts are right there along with them. Not to forget what ALL m96 experts claim, "by 100,000 miles the bores are way out of round/ovaled/tapered way beyond specs... To me, after building 100's of engines, I'd never even consider what your contemplating above on a 150k fragile engine known for its propensity of blowing up at low miles. If your not going to take some of the other guys advice here and fix the cam deviation in the car and call it a day,,, then do it all as long as you've got the engine out and half torn down. The valve covers/cams are already off, just unbolt the heads and split the cases. Check the crank /bearings.cylinders, You might be able to save the crank/rods($6-8k)at this point, and then R&R as needed.... Then have a actual dependable engine like you want. jmo

Quotes source post: 20124368

Well said. Another high mileage engine that used oil thread. Not meant to scare you just information. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-the-dust.html

I need to follow this thread too for tips. I have a 99 3.4 and have done: Coils, sparks, 996.2 injectors, low temp thermo, water pump, center radiator, fan resistor, 997 oil return pipes, 3x chain tensioners. I still need to do UAOS, IMS, and chain pads. I can only read one bank's deviation values but it show close to nominal which is amazing at 119K. All the work I did was focused on what was achievable in my driveway, pads and IMS are for a day I can get the engine out and pay attention to details under cover. Good luck with all this work!

Quick reply for you guys! @allcool & @hbdunn In short, I agree, but luckily, my engine uses nearly no oil. When I said “no oil usage (1 electric readout bar per 2k+ miles = ~250 ml),” I meant I only burn about 250 ml every 2,000 miles - If factory allows 1L burned per 1000 miles (is this correct?), I think my machine is doing very well. I will be giving it a real leak-down test when I install the clutch and VarioCam. "So why build this and not just do a full engine rebuild?" --TLDR; , it aint broke, so dont fix it... Also, a full rebuild is last resort (aka $$$ saving) The engine’s history backs it up: I’ve scoped the bores - perfect, zero scratches. 99% highway miles, 4k-mile oil changes, same owner for 10+ years. Mostly rural driving — 25 miles each way, no traffic, so actual run time is lower than cars I’ve Durametric’d with half the miles. Minimal track use — maybe 5–10 hours ever. I stopped hunting California cars because I think “3 miles in Oklahoma = 1 in Cali.” City miles ruin cars way faster. It has $20k+ in past maintenance, the exact spec I want, and suspension already dialed in for the track. Engine condition: Crankcase vacuum: strong — oil cap pulls hard, so AOS is doing its job (will be UASO soon). Oil use: basically none — top end is sealing great (5w40 oil for 10 years+) (tracked with 5w50 and deep sump installed from PO). Oil pressure: excellent — around 4 bar @ ~3000 rpm hot, 1.5 bar idle at 100�C. A Slakker tech told me low oil pressure = worn bottom end, high oil use = worn top end — I have neither! Plan: Only real needs are: Variocam + clutch. Roughly 2,500 in parts thanks to massive savings via slakker rebuild. In my world, It’s not wise to drop $30k on a new engine now when I can push its limits for $4k when she could easily do another 40k miles with basic fixes if I luck out. If it pops, I’ll take it to Slakker for a full top + bottom rebuild. No issue. So for now, it ain’t broke, so I’m not over-fixing it — I’d rather keep it running as a well-sorted classic that I can still track at 7/10ths. That’s the plan... What do you think AllCool? Or am I just trippin thinking this is valid to do? ------------------ @blightyusa Good to hear! Now both you and GC996 have done this work. Looks like its well worth it! Also, what exactly is a "997 oil return pipe mod" ? When you do your VarioCam, other than pads and cam-to-cam chains, try to get new actuators off of ebay from a boxster (used + boxster = huge money saving). I got my actuators rebuilt for 500 and paid 50 and 150 dollars for both of em. Total, $700 for basically brand new actuators. Thats less than 1/2 the price of one single actuator. With this car, I am first opting to spend the least amount of money, and if I NEED a new engine, or mine goes boom, I just go drop it at Slakker and reuse all the new goodies (ie 997 cooler, UAOS, etc). I view the car as a bad investment and a thing that's a money pit. Maybe 15 years from now in the year 2040, I could sell it for 50k. I am not selling it, so even if it does increase in value, its for not. For an investment, I go the traditional route and stay away from finicky priced cars that tend to go boom! I am not a used car sales man. I enjoy the car enough that this my angle / viewpoint on her. A labor of love, but I will still attempt to save money upfront by fixing it.

Also, what exactly is a "997 oil return pipe mod" ? 997 used return tubes that allow the oil to flow directly back into the sump. 996 return tubes first directed the oil into swirl pots that were to reduce aeration. Thinking is the 997s are better, I have them . Some have written that the original is better.

Quotes source post: 20124719

Yep, this is the 'mod'.

Something to think about if your car is a keeper... Many refreshed and upgraded bolt-on parts can be re-used in a future engine rebuild. No reason to sweat over whether you should do something or not, unless it can't be used in a rebuild, or you are very close to a rebuild. UAOS, deep sump, center radiator, IMSB solution, suspension, exhaust, interior upgrades, exterior upgrades, etc. You get the idea.

Quotes source post: 20124626

Well, glad to hear its not burning oil excessively. No you're not trippin,,, obviously you've put a lot of thought into this plan, all your bolt on parts are good choices for sure. I understand this. Just trying to be the voice of experience and reason. You've got a 150,000 mile worn engine that you say is tired and had been tracked. And to go along with the worn engine you've got a worn howling tranny, that could mean this car was used hard... No matter how you want to spin it, tracked m96 engines are very very hard on their bearings . You say cam deviation is (13 ?) double out of spec, that puts more stress on everything. No getting away from the wear of high mileage on a m96 @150,000 miles. Charles from LN went into detail about the failed structure of m96 engines, " all of them by 100,000 miles are way out of round/tappered/oval". Jake said the same thing. PT3 also agrees with that. I've measure a 996.2, @60,000 miles, on a engine block with no bore score. It was almost out of spec at .0026" OOR, with only 60,000 miles on the engine with perfect 'looking' cylinders. The structure was failing @ only 60k . You also mentioned 1 metallic shaving in your oil, just 1... Its worth repeating what I said above. If you desire a daily driver dependable car you can thrash on the track, 150k bottom end on a previous owner m96 tracked car is not that engine... If your not going to take some of the other guys advice here and fix the cam deviation in the car and call it a day,,, Then at least check everything as long as you've got the engine out and half torn down. The valve covers/cams are already off, just unbolt the heads and split the cases. Check the crank /bearings.cylinders, You might be able to save the crank/rods($6-8k)at this point, and then R&R as needed.... Then have a actual dependable engine like you want. Its kind of like a house. Engine bottom end is like a house foundation. You can have the nicest Honduran mahogany crown moldings(UAOS), Pietra Firma LuxTouch tile (UIDS), fancy appliances/fixtures,etc, but if the foundation is not good. ...you can get structural damage, uneven floors, sticking doors and windows, and even potential collapse in severe cases. Ignoring foundation issues can worsen the damage. Always start with the most solid foundation you can. Thats the most important thing. You can always add the great bolt ons as needed down the road. jmo Is this the third clutch going in the car...?

And if the car is a keeper, and the engine may have limited life left in it, sometimes it just makes sense to go full Monty and do it all at once with a rebuild including internal and bolt-on parts upgrades so you can enjoy it for the next 25 years. Lots of paths to take.

@GC996 and @allcool , Thank you gentlemen! I will also be fixing the deviation issue with new actuators. Really I went in there just to do clutch and variocam replacement. Really I'm just trying to set myself up right for driving. Tracking would be secondary as I know it's tired. Really I just want to keep driving her and let's do this little experiment. So I just pressed order on the rest of the parts so I'm going to be getting heaps of parts. Once they're all here and I'm ready, this is where I'm putting the build thread. So I will see you gentleman then! Let me know if you have any other good ideas and I'll put them to the test Peace and thanks

Quotes source posts: 20124626, 20126048

Actually, a " oil cap pulls hard" is a sign of a faulty AOS.... test with a manometer. I know you're changing to a UAOS, but just something to note about your above quote for you or anyone reading your quote, as its incorrect. just for future reference as a faulty aos can be the end of a good engine...

Quotes source post: 20126727

Oh wow, OK. I need to get a real mano meter on this as this is far from scientific :P Maybe 'pulls hard' was not the right word? It has a nearly brand new AOS on her right now. 14k on the current AOS. Let me give it another check after looking up a good estimation method. Thanks

Quotes source post: 20133392

Thanks to @allcool for catching this. Somewhere on RL is a thread on Manometers if you want to get one and use it. Really won't be needed with the UAOS Track since its diaphram is 2x the thickness of the motosports aos. But you know you have an aos problem when you have a difficult time getting the oil cap off from the suction. And when you do get it off, the idle drops and gets wonky. Here is mine all purchase thru amazon for around $100. May or may not be more expensive today given the tarrif negotiations.

Yea, its been months since I tried this. Really fuzzy memory here. During lunch or after work I will see what happens when I remove ze cap... Thanks GC! I was about to buy a meter and then a oil cap, drill hole, add nipple, test. I will start with free method Translation: IDK what I was talking about

Free is good! One thing is certain, the factory aos will eventually fail.

OK, quick question for you guys: 1. I wish to remove the valve covers without removing the headers. I am fine removing mufflers and cats, but not the bolts as I have PTSD from stripping header studs... Is this doable? 2. The 3rd raditaor kit came, but it did not include the air guide on the rear exit side of the radiator. Is there something there or is that just how it is? I see its mounted at an angle and makes a slight gap at the bottom... Under closer inspection of the Porsche PET, I see the air guide is a 2004 only part? - see page 89 https://assets-v2.porsche.com/us/-/m...996_05_KATALOG Thanks See part 11 -

Christmas in July

I could not get the valve cover the clear my factory headers on my 2000 3.4l. I only broke 8 bolts. There r guys here that will rent the Stomski tool to aid in the repair.

Oh no... @De Jeeper are you saying that the valve cover to head bolts broke or the header to engine bolts broke? Also, are you saying that theres not enough clearance between the lone header and the valve cover to remove the valve cover? Like in this picture below, youd be unable to remove the valve cover due to the header being there? Sorry if I am misunderstanding. Random pic from online

For what ever reason i could not get mine to clear but others have done it. Its tight because it has to go strait back before it can go up. Maybe because i had the cat on it didnt work? Headed to block bolts are what broke in mine, but the 3 nuts holding the cat pipe on always break or strip. They r easy to punch out and repair.

Quotes source post: 20159688

Yikes, understood. I called the guys at Rennsport and my mechanic friend who’s helping me, showed them a photo of the bolts, and they said, “your car’s bolts are so clean, they might just loosen just by looking at them!” If not, I’ll hit them with a torch after an overnight soak in PB Blaster — that should do the trick. Worst case, I snap one or two and need a specialist shop to fix it. Thanks! I’ll check out some more disassembly vids to learn about this valve clearance. I’ll try it without doing that, but I’ll keep new gaskets and bolts handy just in case. EDIT: added pic Worst section here

Another Q: I need to swap coolant types. Currently, there is green coolant... Yea. So I am converting back to the proper pink. I will be on a bit of a time crunch and do not wish to take an entire day just waiting for the damn car to cool just to drain the coolant so I was wondering if anyone here has a slick method of doing this conversion back to pink? What I was going to do was: drain green (duh), run distilled, drain once to temp (and heater), fill again with distilled, run again to temp w/ heater, drain again, and NOW put the pink :/ Sounds rough

Pull the front bumper and drain the rads. Pull the bolt on the bottom of the motor. Using some plumbing ferncos as caps drill a hole in it and use a blow gun to put 15 lbs of air through the pipes. That will get 90% out. Then fill and flush 1 more time.

If you are going to the trouble to upgrade the coolant, if you don't have a vacuum fill device, get one like this: Schwaben Coolant Vacuum Fill Tool PEL024948SCH01A PEL.024948SCH01A PEL 024948SCH01A | Pelican Parts Works great and you don't have to worry about any air pockets in all those nooks and crannies. Here's another. This is the model I have and it's even less: Schwaben Cooling System Coolant Air Purge/Refill Tool. Used to refill the cooling system without air pocket issues PEL 003466SCH01 PEL.003466SCH01 PEL003466SCH01 | Pelican Parts

Yall rock Much appreciated! I am thinking early august I start. Also, the Bently manual has the headers attached throughout the valve cover removal process, so I will order bolts and gaskets, but plan on not removing them. Edit: Also anyone here usedDirko HT Grey or Permatex Ultra Gray instead of the factory Loctite 5900 on the valve / cam covers? What have you all used with success?

I used Permatex "right stuff" in black to seal my pan, works great. They make it in both grey and black. Used it on many pans including my Audi diesel.

Quotes source post: 20164865

Ya, probably used them all. I do like the Ultra Grey.and 5900. Yamabond is good, the new ThreeBond is my favorite. But in reality, all the newer era of sealants are very very good. IMHO, the brand/type of a good grade sealant is the least important part of sealing parts. If you do it right bathroom sealant will work fine... To get a leak tight seal without contaminating the inside of engine is more about surface preparation. The surface of both parts being assembled must be burr free, oil/grease free, dry and clean of any old sealer/gasket/whatever. I like to use a combination of a small flat stone/scotch brite pad/scraper(carefully) to remove anything on the sealing surface and make sure there are no burrs, surfaces are flat and clean. Then right before applying sealer wipe down the sealing surfaces with brake clean. I apply a very very small bead and tack it up with tip of my finger to making sure its enough and not to much to seep into the engine and confirm it sticks' to the surface. I'm kind of **** about excess sealer dripping out of(and inside of) engine parts. To me, I've got it right when I can just see an even uniform color of the sealant in the seam of parts being assembled. Then you've got the fasteners that provide the proper clamping force to your parts... I run every reused fastener under the wire wheel on my bench grinder. It removes all old thread lock, old sealer, dirt, rust, etc. All bolts/nuts on my builds must thread in fully by hand before being torqued. If needed, taps/dies/thread chasers all can be used... I never pound in an old crusty bolt with an impact driver. Is all this really needed, maybe not. But can tell you I've got many 100k mile engines running around without a drop of seepage/leaks....

^^^ What he said. I used Drei Bond on my Turbo's cam covers. Agree that surface prep is key. I wipe both surfaces down with acetone until the wiping cloth comes off clean. I use some lint-free wipes I got from Amazon. I do this just before applying the sealant.