26 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHELP, CAN'T GET WATER PUMP OUT!!!
Leading reported evidence
Install hundreds of the 997 pumps in 996s
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My indy told me they have installed hundreds of the 997 pumps in 996s with no issues.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
After I put it all together I could still see green fluid by bottom thermostat bolt - dang - after driving for 5 miles with bleed valve open - things look good - no leak - not sure where that drip came from (hopefully from a spill while I was filling fluid).
Leading evidence: 'Install hundreds of the 997 pumps in 996s' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill fluid)' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
There is a hard line on the left side of the engine without looking, I believe it is the one that connects to the thermostat there are three bolts 2 on the left engine block and one @ the front undoing this and moving it out of the way will give you clearance to get the water pump out, That last bolt on the right side is tough, I put a bit of grease on the head and got it in place with a box end then used a 1/4" drive short socket on a swivel with a long wobble extension a pain but it worked, make sure that you have the correct pump before you start, I ordered mine and got a 997 pump looks the same only a slightly larger impeller, ended up doing my pump twice.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Use 1/4" socket
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I tried various socket extensions and U joint - finally I used a 1/4" socket from the top of the engine with a screwdriver to keep it pressed against the bolt - that work - but took me a long time to figure that out and get it out/in again.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Used Pentosin SF fluid ($12.99 at O'Reiley for 1.5ltr - took about 4 bottles plus same amount of distilled water) .
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used permatex water pump sealant like he shows on video - original factory fit does not use that (looks like just the gasket) - but it does make it easier to position the gasket when fitting it back on - same for the thermostat.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Fill fluid)
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
After I put it all together I could still see green fluid by bottom thermostat bolt - dang - after driving for 5 miles with bleed valve open - things look good - no leak - not sure where that drip came from (hopefully from a spill while I was filling fluid).
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Found a third bracket bolt way up under the engine about in the middle, removed it and then I could move that metal tube way out of the way so it made things much easier, particularly when removing and replacing the thermostat housing.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
There is a hard line on the left side of the engine without looking, I believe it is the one that connects to the thermostat there are three bolts 2 on the left engine block and one @ the front undoing this and moving it out of the way will give you clearance to get the water pump out, That last bolt on the right side is tough, I put a bit of grease on the head and got it in place with a box end then used a 1/4" drive short socket on a swivel with a long wobble extension a pain but it worked, make sure that you have the correct pump before you start, I ordered mine and got a 997 pump looks the same only a slightly larger impeller, ended up doing my pump twice.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Use 1/4" socket
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I tried various socket extensions and U joint - finally I used a 1/4" socket from the top of the engine with a screwdriver to keep it pressed against the bolt - that work - but took me a long time to figure that out and get it out/in again.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
26 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T140027Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Working on car now, have 7 10mm bolts out of pump, but won't drop down, or come out above, what am I missing?
Raised engine, loosened bolts for engine bracket all the way, have it pulled back as far as it will go, still no joy.
Thanks,
DS
it's free and dangling, just doesn't seem to be enough clearance to remove it. It looks like I need to remove the hose to the thermostat housing as well, which looks like it's going to be a bitch
Correct, you must remove the hose and that is by far the worst part of this job. But I've seen somewhere that there are water hose tools to make removal easier. I didn't have one so I struggled every way I can to get that thing off.
Good luck!
There are remote clamp removal tools I believe sears online has them, Im sure someine will add better info.If its just the hose try loosening /prying with screwdriver spray some lube between hose and nipple if you can.
My water pump failed on me last Thurs, about 300 m from home and managed to coast home: lucky. 00 C2 has 141k kms or about 87k miles and I believe it is original wasserpumpe, as they say.
Heard the impeller rattle against the wall of the pump or engine wall when it failed and it was all very quick affair. Retraced coolant trail for same distance to home. Not sure yet if impeller bits got to travel? A bit worried about that!
Getting more well-reputed VW dealer with excellent mechanics to do replacement.
Since they are not totally familiar with PCars, I printed an excellent renntech.org procedures for them to follow to do this job: Very happy I did this for them and I'm sure happy being a renntech member as well.
Should get the pump today and start the removal job today or tomorrow. I'll try to get some helpful feedback from the mechanic once the job is done or ... I'll hear from them before if they run into a similar problem encountered earlier in this thread. Sorry I cannot be more helpful at this stage.
Martin
The hose clamps are actually pretty easy in this case because they are accessible. But you are correct, if you have the clamp tool it does make it less painful. I did have it but what makes it more difficult is the hose itself because it is very snug up against the receiving end.
As mentioned above the clamps are one thing, but at least you can see how they work and there is hope in sight when you have them loosened. The problem I had the most was with the actual hose. For that I very carefully used a think flat-head screwdriver and a plumbers wrench with a rag to keep the teeth from sinking into the rubber.
Using a combination of prying and pulling I was finally able to get the hose off. It would move millimeters at a time but very slowly I made progress. Honestly it took me longer to get that hose off than the rest of the waterpump itself. I guess it makes sense that it has to be tight because of the pressures associated with the cooling system but it makes for a pain when removing/replacing them.
I finally removed the hose clamp and hose at the top and dropped the whole assembly with the thermostat housing down carefully. I never could get that hose loose on the thermostat housing. I agree with above, it took me more time to get that hose assembly off than replacing the water pump. Bang on the water pump with a rubber mallet to get it loose. I had to do that too. Make sure the engine mount bracket is as far back as you can get it towards the rear of the car. Also, replace the top and bottom spring loaded hose clamps with quality SS worm clamps of the correct size. Makes a difference. Also, I remember that there is a metal tube down there fastened to the left side of the engine. I took the two bolts out on the left side of the engine but needed more space while working down there. Found a third bracket bolt way up under the engine about in the middle, removed it and then I could move that metal tube way out of the way so it made things much easier, particularly when removing and replacing the thermostat housing.
I had to remove the thermostat housing as well to get the water pump out... and since I removed it, now the seal is seeping and it wasn't before, so I am going to have to order a new gasket for the thermostat. It's always something.
I did the same thing with the metal hose.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Thanks Porsche-T, I had watched that video numerous times before I went in. The black hose you see hanging down is the one I couldn't get off, and the video starts with it off, so the part I needed assistance on was never discussed. I ended up taking the thermostat housing off, dropping out the pump, and putting the T-stat housing back...but now I need a new t-stat gasket since I opened it up it now has a tiny drop which it never had before.
Thanks for the assistance,
DS
the t-stat and water pump are always best done together with all the necessary gaskets. Sucks you will have to have coolant running out of the car again. hopefully you ordered a new drain plug washer for the plug.
Sorry to bring this thread back but I'm looking for any tips as well. I currently have the water pump and t-stat off the car but there were 2 bolts that were a royal pain in the a$$. The first one was the water pump bolt on the right side. Very tight and was able to get it with multiple wobble extensions. The second was the upper left t-stat bolt. This one was the hardest because the exhaust header was in the way. Again I got it off but I am concerned with how I am going to get these back on.
Any tips?
Go to Renntech.org and do a search in the common fixes and repairs for 996's.
If you dropped it down and out, you will get the replacement back up and in.
It took me most the day to replace mine as a first timer.
Remember to use the correct coolant (phosphate free) and keep "burping" the air out of the system for a couple days.
Your dash coolant temp/level light will probably keep coming on until the
air is out of the lines. Check out Renntech. Lots of guys giving great tips and videos on this replacement. It is not easy if you have not done it before.
Patience! If memory serves me correctly, I was able to get the bolt started with my fingers and then worked a swivel socket on there with a couple of extensions. It was tight but doable.
I did my water pump and thermostat this weekend. The youtube video makes it look easy ! Getting air box out and belt is easy (MAF sensor on the '02 has a clip on the underside you have to press to pull the electrical connector out - that took me a while to figure out since i didn't want to break anything - but now I could do it in 10 secs). Removing engine bracket is also quite easy. I used sissor jack to support weight of engine (more secure than my trolley jack). You just need to move the final bolts on the bracket as far back as they will come without taking them off - this gives an extra inch or so of clearance to get pump out later.
Now the hard part - 5 of the bolts on the water pump are easy - the 6th is OK - but the last one on the bottom right is hard to get to. I tried various socket extensions and U joint - finally I used a 1/4" socket from the top of the engine with a screwdriver to keep it pressed against the bolt - that work - but took me a long time to figure that out and get it out/in again.
Use wire cutters to cut the w-pump gasket - three cuts required.
To get the pump out - you have to disconnect the hoses - spring clips can be compressed and moved back with plumbers wrench - but space is tight in there so a medium size wrench was good - to get the actual hose off that has been on there 12 years is hard - I used a screw driver to pry it - but took a long time - the hoses were in remarkably good condition and still flexible.
You also have to move the rigdig water line on the side of the engine to get access to thermostat bolts and remove that too - then pump slides right out.
My pump vanes looked fine, and I couldn't hear any bearing noise or wobble - but there was some scoring inside the hole where the pump sits. (65K miles). I had decided to do this job due to coolant loss and eventually saw a leak under the pump. (Fluid is green as die ages - not pink - as it comes out of engine)
Got pump back in (again it took time to get that last bolt). I used permatex water pump sealant like he shows on video - original factory fit does not use that (looks like just the gasket) - but it does make it easier to position the gasket when fitting it back on - same for the thermostat.
Old thermostat (factory) was Wahler - new one - same brand from Pelican. Decided not to go with low temp one. I used Pierberg pump. Used Pentosin SF fluid ($12.99 at O'Reiley for 1.5ltr - took about 4 bottles plus same amount of distilled water) . After I put it all together I could still see green fluid by bottom thermostat bolt - dang - after driving for 5 miles with bleed valve open - things look good - no leak - not sure where that drip came from (hopefully from a spill while I was filling fluid). Car still looks dry after a few hours.
This was definitely a whole weekend project for me - don;t budget 2 hours unless you have done ti a few times before ! But doable and the video is very helpful (although missing a few critical pointers for newbies like removing MAF, hoses, and best technique for bolt # 7 ! )
Hopefully this write-up is useful for some of you - and I do not see anymore leaks !
Cheers - time for a cold guinness
If you haven't already succeeded... remove the idler pulley above the water pump and pull it out from above. I spent an hour tearing up my hands on the old pump's gasket before I decided to ignore the "pull it out from below" step in all of the water pump DIYs. 2 minutes to remove the idler, and the pump slipped right out. It was also a snap to lower the new pump in from above...
Removing from above also eliminates messing with the hard line.
There is a hard line on the left side of the engine without looking, I believe it is the one that connects to the thermostat there are three bolts 2 on the left engine block and one @ the front undoing this and moving it out of the way will give you clearance to get the water pump out, That last bolt on the right side is tough, I put a bit of grease on the head and got it in place with a box end then used a 1/4" drive short socket on a swivel with a long wobble extension a pain but it worked, make sure that you have the correct pump before you start, I ordered mine and got a 997 pump looks the same only a slightly larger impeller, ended up doing my pump twice. There is a good tutorial on Renntech.
Do not listen to your indy is all I can say. Maybe they never try to hand spin the pump after it's on. There was a recent thread not long ago someone found out the 997 pump is ~2mm bigger in diameter than the 996 pump.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...n-a-996-a.html
Also, the latest 996 pump has 996xxx in the part number, not a 997 number. The 997 pump is for 997 and is not meant to be an upgrade to our 996s!
He is simply wrong, they are not compatible the impeller doesn't fit into the block, as stated it is 2mm larger I measured it, had to change out my water pump twice, good practice I guess.
