19 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH'99 good deals?
Reported or suspected cause
covered by the extended warranty
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
Only the camshaft problem was covered by the extended warranty.
Leading evidence: 'covered by the extended warranty' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'covered by the extended warranty' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check build' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
Older 911s (and 996 Turbo, GT2, GT3 and race cars) have a dry sump oil system (they all have 993 crankcase) which is better and prevents that but I think this problem is some how (I don't kow how) solved in later 996s.
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Suggestion
In 02 Porsche replace 80% of the engine parts, for just an additional 20hp.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
~$4000 and 5 trips to the dealer) within the last month is run, don't walk.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
Older 911s (and 996 Turbo, GT2, GT3 and race cars) have a dry sump oil system (they all have 993 crankcase) which is better and prevents that but I think this problem is some how (I don't kow how) solved in later 996s.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T000231Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hey guys, I am thinking of getting a 996 in a few months. Does the 1999 have problems with engines? I heard a few stories on ebay of engines being replaced etc. Also, the prices seems to be dropping e.g. $36.5K to $39K is not unusual, at least that is what is seems :-).
What are other things to worry about 996?
I was considering 95-96 993 but for the price I might as well get a newer car?
Help please :-)
I need to have a good research to show my wife, hehe.
In Feb, from The Porsche Store in Plano, Tx, I purchased a 99' coupe, Black/Savannah, 18" Turbo looks, new P-Zero's, otherwise lightly optioned, 24,500 miles, Porsche Certified warranty, $39,000. Been just a joy to drive, a big step up from my 968 Club Sport.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Giovanni:
<strong>...I was considering 95-96 993 but for the price I might as well get a newer car?...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Giovanni,
There's a reason for that. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Re: -99 Engine's. I'm not real 996 expert but from what I've heard, 996 engines had oil starvation problems, manily cars drivern hard (as these car are supposed to) at track etc.
Older 911s (and 996 Turbo, GT2, GT3 and race cars) have a dry sump oil system (they all have 993 crankcase) which is better and prevents that but I think this problem is some how (I don't kow how) solved in later 996s.
I've heard other engine problees as well but I'd think since -99 car is few years old already, those hould be sorted out.
But if you are planning to track you car, there might be a problem but I think you should be able to check (from the car's records) whether something has been done or not.
And remember, PPI is a must when buying Porsches.
Well having a '99 996 since new never had oil starvation issues at the track and go to about 11-12 DE's a year. I imagine if you're planning on 12 hr enduro races maybe a different story but with DE's most last 25-30 minutes each track session and other then seeing a few pushrods blowing a cylinder-oil starvation doesn't seem to be an issue with many cars. Like Finn said get a good PPI as with any car. Make sure TSB's have been taken care of ie RMS/rear lid corrosion/coolant tank/gas cap/air bag lite seems to be the main ones. Regards. Mike
and check the Build! the newer the better. July 99 was the last month before they switched to making 2000s. The newer the build, the better the chance all of the early bugs were worked out at the factory, rather than at the dealer
I had a '99 C2 cab with a Sept. 1998 build date that was a daily driver for 3 years and 51k miles before I traded it in for an '02. Never had any problems with it other than the minor TSB's mentioned by 996FLT6.
I have 99 996 and the first year I drove it on the street and de's with no problems. I then started club racing in the PCA and had one problem after another, including oil starvation. I know another club racer that had the oil starvation problem too. I would say as a daily driver/part time DE car it is fine. But it you put a race suspension on and run R compound tires, you are going to have problems.
In 02 Porsche replace 80% of the engine parts, for just an additional 20hp. I don't think you do that just for 20hp. Also one of the big changes was the oil system.
I track/race a 993RS now and have had no mechanical problems with it. I drove both cars the same way.
Also I believe Porsche says the oil system on all 996's is a dry sump. The big difference between it and older 911's is the oil tank is external vs. internal.
What type of research do you need?
The 996 is a newer car but is probably out or close to out of warranty as well, so that's a wash.
The 993 is a little easier for the DIY'er.
The 996 is faster and easier to drive. If this car will be your daily driver, get the 996.
Parts and maintenance will be high for either.
Looks are purely subjective, so what do you think of the two?
Air cooled vs. water cooled. The 993 3.6 motor is the final evolution of many years of building air cooled motors. The 996 3.4 motor is the first mass produced water cooled motor in a 911.
Prices are about the same for either so you can figure out the depreciation of both.
Can't go wrong with either, unless you get a lemon or one that has not been maintained properly.
Thanks for all the info.
My plan is to get a daily driver and ''drive it like you stole it!!'' car on occassions :-).
I'm pretty sure I don't want a Cab as I don't like Convertibles but they look good with a hardtop. It all boils down back to price.
I would rather have a watercooled thought, less noise?
Daily Driver C4...no problems...concur with the "bulletproof" daily driver the only equally or as reliable Porsche I owned was my 928. My 993 was not nearly as problem free as either my 996C4 or my 928.
I think a great thing to do is to find a 99 that still has a month or any time left on the factory warranty. Buy it and extend the warranty with a good aftermarket bumper to bumper warranty like Warranty Gold or Warranty Direct. I was just going out of warranty and I bought a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty on my 10,000 mile Cab. That is 7 years from the date I bought it plus 90,000 more miles on the odometer. Cost will be in the high 3K range most likely for the top bumper to bumper plan, but that is cheap insurance for that kind of mileage and time period. This is something you could never do with a 993 (all are out of the ORIGINAL warranty). It was one major item that sold me on a 996. I was looking seriously at 993s originally.
It is, and that's what I have.
'99 996 Cab, GR/SB/BL, 29500 miles, daily driver, loaded with decent amount of options, owned since new, ext warranty good for 4 more years and up to 60K miles.
And someday soon, it might be for sale!
Edward Kay:
I have a 99 cab and the warranty ends in June. Interested in which company you selected and why. Any comments from others would be appreciated!
My advice after replacing the O2 sensors, MAF Sensor, fuel gauge sending unit, camshaft, some air valve thingys (i.e. ~$4000 and 5 trips to the dealer) within the last month is run, don't walk. Only the camshaft problem was covered by the extended warranty.
