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YOUR RESEARCHso i changed my tail light and BAM! cluster f#@^
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Replace ) is not working
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So i changed the left bulb, and i started the lights, the left brake light (bulb i just changed) is not working.
Leading evidence: 'Replace ) is not working' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best bet' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fuse box' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
Ahsai's idea of bending the tab upwards is probably the best bet.
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Suggestion · Original poster
What am I looking for when I "check the fuse box"?
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Suggestion · Original poster
apparently while i took off a GOOD working break light, just to change the bulb to a new one i had laying around, somehow i broke the metal tab that the bulb connects too...
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Suggestion · Original poster
apparently while i took off a GOOD working break light, just to change the bulb to a new one i had laying around, somehow i broke the metal tab that the bulb connects too...
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So i go to pep boys, get the P21 5w bulb for the brake light/tail light, change the right side one and its working... and i look over to the left and see a new bulb and i think sweet, change this one too.
So i changed the left bulb, and i started the lights, the left brake light (bulb i just changed) is not working. I take the light out again, take the bulb out and put it back in, no dice. So i keep the lights on and I'm playing with the bulb.
I notice that when not fully pressed and locked into position, it works. When i twist it into position, it doesnt turn on. So i keep messing around with it, then i hear a "chk" from what sounded like the front, and ALL of the left sided lights (front light, side orange light, and all tail lights) turn off. I turn the lights off and on again, no dice only the right works, not the left.
The head light works, the fog lights work, but the front parking light, side orange light and all of the tail lights dont work now. Did i short a fuse? what can i do now??
thanks!
and i'm freakin' PISSED now too
There should be a fuse puller tool next to the fuses. Take that and pull the fuse you think is out based on the fuse diagram. Check to see if filament is broken or burnt visually. Most of the time a fuse blows, you should be able to see a visual break. Occasionally this won't be detectable to the naked eye and that's when you'll need either a multimeter to read the resistance or a circuit tester.
you were correct... A4 was oouuuttt...
so i changed it with the spare fuse that was on the panel on the bottom. But i also figured out why my brake light was not working... apparently while i took off a GOOD working break light, just to change the bulb to a new one i had laying around, somehow i broke the metal tab that the bulb connects too... Here are a couple of pictures showing what i mean...
here's the working good socket:
unbroken tab on the good socket:
and the broken tab on the bad socket.. notice difference in this pic and above pic. you can see the tab come up and curve.. and it breaks at the end of the curve.
anyone have any idea how to fix it? solder on a piece of metal? any help? thanks!!
You may be able to get away with it by unbending and flattening the remaining part a bit and then make the same curve but bending it at a point closer to the center of the socket. As is, that broken pin is shorting out the +ve bulb pin to the ground of the bulb.
Otherwise, either salvage yard or new harness/connectors for ~$230
It's possible but you will need a 100w or so soldering iron to be powerful enough to heat up that piece of metal. Also diificult in close quarter with meltable plastic around.
Hmmm... soldering that inside the socket is going to be darn near impossible without melting the plastic. Ahsai's idea of bending the tab upwards is probably the best bet. If you can lay or glue another piece of spring steel in there it would work as well. I'd also suggest dielectric greasing the heck out of everything when you re-assemble since it's already going to be prone to losing contact even without any corrosion (that will come down the road without grease).
