Row M030 on 996 Cab Factory Aero with 18s?

It did not take me more than a weekend to realize the stock U.S. suspension is not going to cut it. I have heard many good things about the ROW M030. I, however, have a Cab. I understand it is a different part number for the cabs? I also wonder if it will still give the great improvement in performance without sacrificing the ride quality too much? I am a careful driver. I wonder if the Factory Aero kit with 18s is too much for the 20mm front/10mm rear lowering? I just don't want to be scraping the car all of the time. One final thing. Anyone know what would work on a ROW M030 car with Sport Classic II 18s? Can I do 225 in the front and 285 in the rear, or is 245 front/285 rear preferred? I currently have 225/265 on the car, but the lip of the wheels sticks out too much. I want wider on the rear to protect the rims/appearance, etc. Best price is $970 and change from Sunset for the full ROW M030. I wonder if I can get it installed for $300-$400. Maybe my labor number is a pipe dream.

Yep, pipe dream indeed... Got to count 7 to 8 hrs at $75/hour = $500 - $600 for labor alone. For the same + $300 for corner balancing and alignment I'm paying $1130 in Atlanta. I have an aerokit coupe with H&R springs. The car is way too low for Atlanta and hits just about everywhere. I bought a Billstein PSS9 kit from Carnewal.com with GT3 bars last week. It arrived today... It will be installed at the end of the week and here's what I saw in the specs (manual) of the car US_STD/SPORT ROW_STD ROW_SPORT GT3 FRT AXLE 158+/-10 148+/-10 138+/-10 112-10 RR AXLE 163+/-10 163+/-10 153+/-10 125+10 The H&R lower the car by about 1.25" = 31mm Which means that my car is lower than a ROW sport car by nearly 10mm ... Do not do that. By the way, given the little cost difference between the MO30 and PSS9 (less than $1k) and that the labor is about the same (except you have to add corner balancing), you may want to consider an aftermarket coil over... With regards to your tire questions 245 is not a good number. You need to keep the rolling radius as close as possible as the original. 285/30 and 265/35 are virtually identical, 245/35 is smaller than 225 by a bunch (9mm on the sidewalls alone) Therefore, you probably need to keep the 225 and if you want the large rear, change the suspension settings a bit so as not to have a car that understeers even more... Hope this helps (and that I'm right in what I wrote) JM

Has anyone noticed that on 993s the front axle height was higher than the rear and now on the 996 it's the opposite????

Well, the RoW M030 will load the front end a good bit more, but I am skeptical that having a wider and shorter contact patch will do much considering the weight bias, apart from making you have to steer a lot more. The car will have more tendency to tramline and wander under braking, and increasing the unsprung weight will further diminish the ride quality. Possibly worth it if you are looking to totally maximize the limits of the thing via extensive tuning, otherwise no. Especially if you are just looking to reduce the understeering bias, which the RoW M030 does in spades right out of the box. Recall also that (all else equal) wider tires does NOT equal "more rubber on the road" just more spinning above the road. Same applies in back. I would strongly suggest you try the suspension change for a while before adding any unsprung weight back there since the small amount of harshness in the RoW M030 is mostly back there. The good news is that the ground clearance is not as problematical as it might seem due to the higher spring rates (in the bump stops too), and firmer damping.