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YOUR RESEARCHTroubleshooting a Clutch Issue
Leading reported evidence
Check service record and my rms was
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just checked my service record and my RMS was replaced at 8584 mi.
Leading evidence: 'Check service record and my rms was' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'unlikely' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check service record and my rms was' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Check shifter linkage and didn't find anything obvious
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I removed the console and checked the shifter linkage and didn't find anything obvious.
Replace i just checked my service record and my rms
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just checked my service record and my RMS was replaced at 8584 mi.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The transmission was removed then and when the clutch was replaced at 28,140 mi.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
1) I used the harbor freight jack and it worked great.
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In November of last year my transmission started having trouble going into gear - at first just into reverse, then into first, and by January it wouldn't shift at all. Here's the thread:
I Think I'm Screwed
So I finally pulled the transmission this weekend to see what I can see. The clutch, pp, and flywheel actually don't look that bad, so I don't think that is the problem. However, I do have an oil leak from the IMS or perhaps the RMS. Since the car has 85k miles on it I think I'll replace both for peace of mind. I'll also replace the slave cylinder and AOS while I'm here.
This still doesn't account for the shifter's refusal to engage R-1-2. I'm thinking the slave cylinder must be the culprit - I'm not sure what else in the chain would cause the gears not to engage since the shifter linkage and cables seem to be fine.
Whatever turns out to be the cause I guess it's good I pulled the transmission and found the oil leak.
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I checked the flywheel function and it seems OK - moves about 1/2" then snaps back. The clutch disk has quite a bit of material left and the pressure plate has no grooves. Very dirty though.
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As I said here:
Minimum height to remove transmission
I have a list of stuff to replace depending on what needs it or would be prudent to replace while the trans is out.
If you reply please don't quote and repost all the pics. I know it gets tedious for folks to scroll through multiple posts all with the same pics. Thanks!
I'm wondering if I should pop the nose cone off the transmission and look at the internals. I'm not sure how involved that is. I don't want pieces falling out on the floor. Anybody know if there's more involved than just removing the bolts and slipping off the cover?
BTW if you're in the market for a transmission jack buy one with a ratcheting nylon strap and NOT a piece-of-crap chain like the one I have. Mine is a Big Red from Northern Tools and the jack itself is fine but it is impossible to get the chain tight and once the trans is moved or wiggled the chain is loose again and usually falls off.
I had to buy a 14' ratcheting tie down to rig up a suitable strap to actually hold the trans firmly to the jack pad so I could pull on the jack and trans to remove it.
IMG_0163.jpg
This thing is so filthy it'll take me a week and a gallon of degreaser to clean it, but there's no way I could put it back like this. Next weekend is a three-day weekend for me so I'll be cleaning the back of the motor and the trans.
IMHO, the flywheel is scrap metal. Replace it while you have things apart. I see you have some shift linkage mods. Are you sure the shifting problems are not:
1. linkage related
2. 2nd gear detent fix
3. improper fluid
4. maybe clutch cylinder (replace anyway, its cheap)
5. worn synchros
Reach in through drian plug hole and feel for junk on magnet in bottom of trans.
I see you are in Houston. Need any specialty tools as Im close to you? Need vendor for LUK flywheel?
Love DIY projects. Great work!
I know you have one but this jack works perfectly for our lightweight transmissions. $82.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
Actually I'm not sure of anything. I had hoped to find something obvious and dramatic I could point to and say:
"Oh, there's the problem. I'll just replace it and put everything back together."
As it turned out the results of my efforts were more ambiguous. I've never had issues with it popping out of gear so I think the detent issue is unlikely. I removed the console and checked the shifter linkage and didn't find anything obvious. I could still see the marks the tech made on the cables for the adjustment were still aligned.
The clutch components are very dirty but serviceable. The pivot and arm are ok. I didn't see anything obvious on the slave cylinder that would indicate it was not functioning, but that doesn't mean fluid is not leaking past the seal internally. Anyway , I will replace it and the fluid.
Ayone know of a shift function test I can do with the trans out of the car? Remove the cover and inspect the internals? - I'd need a procedure for that.
I'll check through the drain hole for debris when I get home. If I stand the trans on it's tail will fluid leak out or do I have to drain it before I check?
I was hoping for clarity once I removed the trans. Even so my effort wasn't wasted because I found the oil leak and want to replace the IMS bearing. But that doesn't explain the difficult shifting. Hopefully it will be the slave cylinder. I want to check everything I can before I put it back together.
KrazyK if you have the special tools to replace the RMS and other seals I'd love to borrow them. I'm in Sugar Land...
1) I used the harbor freight jack and it worked great. Even got it for less than $50 on sale one weekend.
2) That flywheel looks awful. I know you said it passed the bench test, but the contact surface has taken some abuse.
3) I think you need a pro to service your transmission or rebuild it. I doubt the clutch is causing specific gear issues.
Good luck...
I have opened these 6 speeds to replace destroyed 2nd gears and noisy pinion bearings. The "nose cone"/gear shaft housing does not really just unbolt. If you do decide to pull the housing apart nothing will fall out on the floor, but you will hate yourself for doing it when it comes time to put it back on. It is a PITA to get all the shift rods to align into their small alignment bearings in the case before your 5 minutes of sealer working time are up. Besides that there is nothing inside the trans that would result in your condition without also making grinding noises during engagement.
Your no shift at all is clutch, external shifter, or hydraulic related.
Skoot
Good info - Thanks! I don't think there is anything wrong internally but if it wasn't too much trouble I would have checked it. From your description I don't think I want to go there - the last thing I need in my life right now is more frustration.
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I'm not sure what the silicone looking material is in the bottom cavities and if it's suppose to be there or someone added it for some reason. Anyone seen that in their transmission bell housing?
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That's as clean as I could get it with three different kinds of engine cleaner and degreaser and a hand full of brushes.
I want to call your attention to this pic. Take a look at it and tell me if anything strikes you as odd...
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I just checked my service record and my RMS was replaced at 8584 mi. The transmission was removed then and when the clutch was replaced at 28,140 mi. I don't have any record of other work performed on the transmission (and the service record is complete) so that makes the issue I questioned in the previous post even more intriguing...
How do two bolts just fall out? How does a tech remove the trans and not notice two missing bolts? It seems impossible the factory would not install two bolts.
Luckily it doesn't seem to have caused any ill effects.
Hey Sand,
Maybe the silicone was an attempt to hide the leak? Maybe someone has been into the trans? I would replace the rear mount while you have it out (its cheap).
Take a close look at the clutch arm pivot pin cap. They are hard plastic and very brittle. I think the pivot pins about $50.
When do you need the RMS install tool? What other tools do you need? IMSB puller and installer? Do you need an RMS seal? New flywheel? Clutch disc spline tool? Cam locks, crank lock?
I definitely need to replace the rear mount - it has tears in the rubber. I'm thinking one of these:
WEVO.h1.jpg
I understand they fit the 996 transmission. Not sure yet how I'll remove the existing. Pelican has a how-to article where he cuts it out with a hack saw rather than pressing it out. That would be a delicate cut.
I need to do the IMS and RMS, so I can use the tools. Thanks again for the offer. I'll pm when I'm getting close. It'll probably be next month sometime before I can do it.
RMS tool
IMS tools
trans shaft seal puller and installer
clutch align and flywheel lock
flywheel pilot bearing puller and installer
Thanks again!
The missing bolts actually secure a missing bracket to the differential cover. THe bracket has a clip that secures the hydraulic hose. I would certainly consider ordering the bracket and bolts.
Skoot
P.S. try Part#99642377701 Line bracket and Part#90037828101 Bolt
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Thanks Skoot for pointing that out. It secures the slave cylinder hydraulic lines? There's a pic in my Bentley manual but I don't see anything attached to it. I think it goes with this:
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That clip shows up on the 986 parts diagram but not for the 996. I don't see anything attached to it for the 996.
I guess some tech had "parts left over" on one of the r&r jobs...
It easily presses out but you wont need one anyway because a new one will already be installed in the new flywheel. You ARE getting a new flywheel right? Hint hint. I would buy the OEM LUK, prices vary from $400+ to $600. Dont try to repair the old one.
Sure:
how-to-remove-transmission-input-shaft-seal.html
sloppy-work-from-dealer.html
silicone-inserts-in-transmission-housing.html
how-to-torque-lne-ims-nut.html
quick-question-on-ims-cam-lock.html
and the last update:
finally-finishing-aos-rms-ims.html
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
