'99 Cab - broken latch microswitch plastic

So I opened the top the other day and a piece of black plastic fell from the latch on the ceiling. Not a good sign. On closer inspection it seems to be part of the microswitch that senses when it is safe for the latch to deploy and grab the windshield frame. I managed to get the top closed by fooling the switch. Please tell me that there is a fix to this that does not involve me spending $800 at the dealer for a new latch... A picture is below. My apologies for the sizing. still working it out. This is a picture of the plastic that broke off. I dont really want to open the top again so I dont have a pic of the place where it fits on the latch. It is on the front of the latch and two arms go back into a microswitch. Many thanks in advance.

I have a 99 cab. Is this a piece which fell from the cab top hook area or from inside the hole where the plastic covered hook latches INTO around the windshield? I suspect it fell from the cab top that moves where the hook comes out from. Somewhere in that part. If so can you remove the whole kit and caboodle when you have the top in service mode stopped half way. So you can remove the whole piece and put a new part in to replace the broken part/micro switch? Reading between your lines I suspect you have been tampering or trying to solve an opening or closing issue with the top with an alan key to move the latch. Now I believe you have to have the whole thing syncopated by a Porsche Garage if the top has been moved manually. If it was out of sinc and you tried then to move it, maybe that part broke off. If it is part of a micro switch, then I should think it could be replaced if you had the whole locking system out on a bench. Hey now its not working, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Try to remove the whole locking part from the movable part of the top. If you cannot then you would have to take it somewhere that could. A Porsche recommended place. Or to the Porsche Garage. I don't envy your task. Cabs are fine when they are working correctly but a Royal PI T A if they are not.

This is from the cab hook area. I have attached a picture (not my car) that shows the plastic piece that broke off as it should be (labelled "This"). It is above the hook in the top. I was not trying to solve an opening/closing issue. In fact the top worked great until the plastic broke off. I'm guessing it was just age. I also suspect that the newer versions of the latch have a beefier plastic in them.

Call sunset and ask about that part. I'd give a shot to replace the part inside the part. Otherwise maybe a salvage yard.

Looking at the parts diagram , only the hook plastic cover is listed as a separate part. The rest of the latching mechanism is all one piece. You'll probably have to try a junkyard. In my experience, very few 996 cabs end up in the junkyard. Instead, they wind up at specialty salvage places like LADismantlers and DCAuto. Good luck in your search for the part.

I think I may try to go with some JB Weld to start. Maybe I can resurrect the plastic I have by gluing it together, at least until I find the part somewhere. Just one more reason to get a 3D printer and scanner!

You can make the piece in 3d printing around $12 online Did a piece recently for an old Polaroid camera from the 70s. To model the piece in 3d would cost very little as it is simple as well.

Thanks Tarzan. What website did you use for your 3d printing?

Although that photo is not the latching system of your car, I see that the plastic covering of the hook is broken away exposing the tip of the bare metal hook. That in itself can jam on the opening to the windshield and maybe put pressure on the plastic part (where yours broke). Check that the plastic cover is still intact on yours. If not you have to replace that as well which is an easy part to buy and fix. I had to do mine. Then (after you have fixed the initial broken part on yours, put O ring grease or something similar on all the plastic. Both the hook and the replaced broken part. Even around the slot where the top mechanism goes into above the wind shield. I wasn't having goes at you in fact I admire you for attempting to rectify any problem with your car. I found out more about your situation by suggesting that you had been trying to fix a previous issue but was wrong in my suggestion. Makes me think now if the plastic around that part was greased, The initial breakage MIGHT not have happened. Since your post, I have grease all mine again haha. Especially the metal hook and H style latch of the Clam Shell on the rear of the car. Mine was not fully closing and causing the side window not to come up consequently not finishing the closing and opening cab cycle. Mine is working really good now but that has not always been the case. If you need a plastic cover for your hook then here it is the new part number 9965617870101C. http://www.autoatlanta.com/results.p...9965617870101C Brake of the remainder of the old one and cut a quarter inch out of the eyelts and simply click it in place. You can super glue it in place without have to remove the whole latching mechanism. Thats what I had to do. If yours is ok then hopefully other readers might gain from this posting.

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http://shapeways.com/

I have a co-worker who has a 3D printing business on the side. (He's an engineer). I also have a '99 cab, so I could have him take a look at the part on my car. Send me a PM if you are interested in connecting with him.

Thanks Frisbee. It looks like I am going to have to take the Latch mechanism off the top to get to the remaining part of the plastic bit that broke. Once I have it apart I will have a better idea of whether or not trying to 3D print it makes sense. I'm just not sure how reasonable it is to get the plastic bit out and to put a new part in. I noticed that on the newer style latch on the 997 (99756111701) (which I found out can be used on the 996 with some adapters) they have changed the mechanism such that a switch pushes directly on the window frame rather than having the plastic bit push on the window frame and then activate a microswitch. $450 on ebay for a used 99756111701. Pricey for a used part.

The new ones are around $1000.. Ring the dismantling yards/ or better still take yours off and dismantle that and maybe you will come up with some ideas to do the trick. You will have to have the top calibrated at Porsche after its been apart I should think.

That's cheap $450 in comparison to new ones.. I am seeing them on the net new from almost $1000 and as high as almost $1500 http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/pors...h_2579906.html

My favorite Porsche parts place has it for $880. They seem like they always have the best prices and (for me anyway) they are local. sonnenporscheoemparts.com Part Number "99756111701" was found for Porsche , but we could not verify the part fits the selected vehicle. You may still purchase this part below. Quick Order Part Number 99756111701 Part Name AS CONVERT.TOP CATCH MSRP $1,031.04 Core $0.00 Save $151.97 Online Price $879.07

Check this out with good photos. Says its for a 997 but has the same part number which you quoted . http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-997-...60742534872%26

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Can you use durametric to calibrate top?

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I don't think the Durametric will do the top calibration. However, I seriously doubt that recalibration will be required after replacing/repairing the front latch mechanism. Recalibration is only needed if you mess with the "sequence" of the top operation.

It does say somewhere not to manually move the top when it is stationary in the service mode. So make sure that the top remains in the same position all the time when you are removing and replacing the latch. You should be ok then I think. You will find out after you DIY to the end.

Thanks Hurdigurdiman. Yes, I noticed that ebay part. It is exactly what I need. Tempted to buy it but I may try JB welding the part back together first before I spend the $450. Or maybe a 3D scan and print. I've always wanted to try a 3D print just for the novelty of it.

Good to know frisbee91. I was nervous that taking out the latch would force another trip to the Dealer. I hate dealers and dont have a durametric.

This is a bit of a logistical problem. Going to have to put on the hard top so I can have a top on and the windows closed while the Latch is off. I assume that the top is put all the way down when the hard top is put on? Does the hard top somehow override the soft top switches to allow the windows to go up? The hardtop has never been on the car. It turns out that only 3 screws were in place holding the Latch on the top (one is missing). Maybe this accounts for the broken plastic in the Latch (extra movement?). Another present left me by the previous mechanics.

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You can bet the missing screw didn't help things. Yeh 3D sound like an amazing process. Bringing up the top to the service position, removing the latch, then continuing on to the down position might not be the best of moves. The micro switches involved in the cab top operation (with the latch removed) may not let you bring up the cab again for the newly repaired latch. The hook part is then missing. Surely that move would **** up the whole operation. It would be wiser to use another vehicle when the latch is removed. I know for certain that IF you have to move that top manually THEN you have to have it calibrated at Porsche. It's not worth the gamble IMHO. Keep the car off the road as you are doing the job.

Wish me luck guys! I took off the Latch assembly and used plenty of JB weld along with some metal nails (reinforcement) to try to fix the broken plastic bit. Unfortunately to 3D print the broken bit I would have had to disassemble the entire Latch so I went the brute force way! Picture is below. JB Weld epoxy is the grey stuff. I'll let you know how it turns out in 24 hours when the epoxy is hard.

Good job so far. Did you get another screw ready for the missing one in the latch? if all fails then this is still up for offers on the ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-997-...60742534872%26

Thanks. Yes I bought four new metric screws so I'm good to go. Tomorrow AM I should be able to put it back in. Keeping my fingers crossed that it works. Its been about 12 hours so far and the JB weld seems strong. Now that the plastic bit has metal supporting it along with the epoxy I wouldn't be surprised if it is stronger than it was originally.

Success!!!! I installed the Latch and the top opens and closes correctly! The epoxied broken bit seems super strong. Thanks for your help everyone!

Excellent news. Well done young man.

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Super post and good pics! Had a similar issue but was able to fix with super glue. I also had to adjust the set screw for the micro switch that senses then the "flipper" hits the window frame. Without it the latch ould start retracting when the top was only about half way up. Marc