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YOUR RESEARCHRemoving front strut: Does front caliper need to be removed if also removing Controls
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Recommend which drill bits will drill into the bolt
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Suggestion · Original poster
Can you recommend which drill bits will drill into the bolt?
Removing front strut: Does front caliper need to be removed if also removing Controls
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Leading evidence: 'Recommend which drill bits will drill into the bolt' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend which drill bits will drill into the bolt' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Time Sert sets have the correct drill size, a roll-tap, and insertion tool to make a far stronger repair than Helicoil.
Removing front strut: Does front caliper need to be removed if also removing Controls
Run drill very slowly and pressing very hard
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Suggestion
Drill into the bolt, running the drill very slowly and pressing very hard on it.
Removing front strut: Does front caliper need to be removed if also removing Controls
Set 4mm
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Suggestion
Long ago I got a large set, 4mm to 14mm and the set has been handy to have.
Removing front strut: Does front caliper need to be removed if also removing Controls
Set colbalt milwaukee bits
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Suggestion · Original poster
Bought a set colbalt Milwaukee bits from Home Depot.
Removing front strut: Does front caliper need to be removed if also removing Controls
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As title asks, is it necessary to remove the calipers to get the strut out if I'm also removing the two lower control arms? I've already snapped the head of the bolt that holds the brake line (no clue what i'm going to do about that, it came off like butter).
Also, prying back the pistons to get out the pads is always a pain so if i can avoid taking the caliper off i'd prefer it.
If i remove both LCAs will that allow me to drop the rotor assemble enough to get the strut out?
U need to remove the the caliper, rotor, saw link and tie rod at a minimum and u can usually pull the shock after removing the top 3 bolts. On some cars u may have to pull the lower ca and remove the entire upright.
U will not want to leave the caliper on because of the weight and risk of breaking/stressing the hard lines
.
Yeh... I just ended up taking it off. Posted out of frustration... Stupid bolt head snapped off with zero effort and then getting the pad clearance is a pain bc the pads are basically brand new--getting even a little leverage in there is hard.
But got caliper off. Sorry for the throw away thread 😬
Not a waste of time........i will add that the retainer bolt for the hard/soft line is important. I ignored this connection in the rear of my car because i made some caliper changes that eliminated the hole location. After about 60 track days the line cracked at the fitting. 128 mph and no brakes = no fun. I was able to slow and stop the car without hitting the wall but i promptly added the attachment parts whem making the repair.
For your issue, u do not need to be precise. It just has to be there. If u drill it out and its a mess just go one size bigger or move the location slightly. It broke because its a 6mm steel bolt in an aluminum upright. The 2 different materials oxidise and sieze and it takes very little force to break a 6mm bolt. Dont stress, it happens to best of us.
Can you recommend which drill bits will drill into the bolt? I've tried all mine and so far no luck, I cut an + slit in the head to give me a center point but my smallest bits are apparently useless.
I bought this set
https://a.co/d/djFKNg8
but so far the smallest but just spins. Managed to just made a little divot, but it won't go any further. Do i need a stronger set of bits?
Have you drilled out a bolt before? Assuming not.
You really need a center punch to make a divot in the center of the bolt.
Then get a small drill bit, like 1/8". The most expensive one you can find in the hardware store. Put some oil on the bit, motir oil will do. Drill into the bolt, running the drill very slowly and pressing very hard on it.
You want to get flakes of metal coming out of the bolt. If all you get is metal dust then your drill is dull or you're spinning it too fast.
For this bolt drill all the way through. Then use a larger bit to enlarge the hole. For a bolt like this I'd go in 1/16" increments.
When you have enough drilled out you could try an easy out; these never work for me.
What I would do is get an M6 Helicoil kit (not from Amazon!). That will include a drill and a tap and instructions. Drill with the supplied bit, tap with the supplied tap, install the helicoil. Done.
Apologies for this but a $15 extractor kit is not going to contain good drill bits. And even if you do manage to make a hole the extractor is likely to break off inside it, which will send you directly into a straitjacket.
Removing broken off bolts is a frustrating PITA task, no getting around it. The left-hand drill bits are a good idea but spend more money on them. Go slow. Follow
@theprf
advice.
EDIT: Advance Auto Parts carries Irwin LH drill bits. I've had pretty good luck with that brand.
I own a machine shop, got no time for cheap cutting tools. Get a fractional drill kit from McMaster 1/16th to 3/8. It will cost a lot and you'll smile every time you open it.
Better than Helicoil are TimeSerts.
Time Sert sets have the correct drill size, a roll-tap, and insertion tool to make a far stronger repair than Helicoil. Helicoil is just a "spring", you can pull it apart or make longer, like a spring. A TimeSert is parallel zigzag metal, a solid piece, and is counter-bored to be flush with the original surface. From TimeSerts: "
The Time-Sert is a complete sleeve with threads on the outside to thread into the hole and a stop tab to keep the sleeve from spinning inside the hole".
Long ago I got a large set, 4mm to 14mm and the set has been handy to have. I have been using these things for over 50 years. Yes, they are more expensive, but can do wonders with aluminum parts.
It is another option if you have not heard about TimeSerts.
YMMV
I agree with De Jeeper. Thumbs up for low cost solution. I just offer information better for other bolt catastrophes. I am continually surprised at how many Porsche folks have not heard of them.
And on and on, since I have a "TimeSert Master Kit" or whatever it is called these days, 50+ years after I bought my kit, I usually go to the TimeSerts because I have them in the tool bin. If it's my garden grass machine or an ATV, I may just weld on a new bolt/nut, get something from Army Surplus store (like a steering rod UnObtainable heim joint and just weld the sucker together. Army Surplus had some for about $1, no part number, just a chunk of metal stuff that works. While not a "MacGiver", I did make a square garden trailer axle function like a free-floating round one, and it works just fine even if it looks weird.
YMMV
Helicoil will be fine for an M6 bolt tightened to 25 inch pounds.
A timesert will need a much larger hole drilled. There isn't always enough room for that. I think an M6 timesert needs a 7/16-14 hole.
Bought a set colbalt Milwaukee bits from Home Depot. Man what a difference. How can the extraction set I bought from Amazon have thousands of reviews--- it's utterly USELESS! The colbalt bits were brainless... I did manage to get a smidge off center, like a millimeter or two, but I think I'll be okay. Ordered an M6 Helicoil brand kit (off Amazon but there aren't a lot of local options with decent reviews). Plan is to use my 1/4" colbalt bit and then use the helicoil and tap thing in the kit (kit doesn't come with a bit).
This is the LAST thing I need to do. Car is already on the ground now and measuring droop and stuff.
Wont matter that the hole is off....when tapping aluminum wd40 is actually a good lubricant or just use some motor oil. Also the m6 is small. Dont use too much force when cutting and reverse the tap once and a while. It allows the chips to fall into the flutes. Let the tap do the work and dont force it.
Great work! We'll have you trained up as a machinist in no time.
Kerosene is the best tapping fluid for aluminum. I think WD40 is mostly deodorized kerosene.
The most important part is to keep the tap straight to the hole. If the tap is going in at an angle it will surely break. If the hole is crooked the tap has to be equally crooked. Getting a broken tap out is challenging.
Second most important is to have the hole the correct diameter. The kit should tell you the diameter. I have never had an Amazon helicoil kit work, every tap has been ground wrong so that it won't cut.
I have a bunch of this brand and they have always been good. Also drill about 1/4" deaper then u think u need, the tap has a tapper and the 1st 4 threads r not full depth.
Amazon
Amazon
