Anyone changed oil using topsider?

I finally got round to changing the oil in my car yesterday using a PELA 6000 oil suction device, similar to the topsider. However, I started getting bubbles in the tube after only 2 qts. It seems like the tube doesn't get to the bottom of the sump. Has anyone else tried to use an oil sucking device to change oil in a 996?

I would think the problem with this even if it worked is that you will always miss some oil/dirt at the bottom of the oil pan... I'm just a front engined waterpumper so I dont know about the practice of getting the oil out of a dry sumped engine...(even if its factory)..

Quite novel tool for the ones prone to take a short cut and or afraid to get their hand dirty. IMO for a complete and effective oil change you need to drain from the factory oil drain plug designed to flush out the particulate. If you notice how mostly all the drain plugs are located at the lowest point of the engine and fluted drain. By using a pump you can not effectively pump out the particulate from the bottom of the engine. But then again, I guess it's better than not changing the oil at all. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Is the bottom of the sump really shaped to route all the oil towards the drain plug? The location of the drain plug in the middle makes it seem like a bit of oil will be left in the sump. In the C5 corvettes the drain plug is at the front of the sump, even angled a little forward, and you get half a quart more oil out by draining it with the back of the car tilted up. In the 996, I also got half a quart more by levelling the car out as opposed to having the rears on ramps. What I did was drain the car on ramps, and when it stopped dripping, I plug the drain hole and pushed the car off the ramps, then unplugged the drain hole again and got another half quart of dirty oil out. It would have been great if the bottom of the sump was shaped like a funnel. Oh well, I'll find 4 thick pieces of wood to drive onto next time.

Last week I went to the local dealer's workshop for an oil change (without filter change) of my 1999 996 C2. I stayed there during the whole process and have to report the following: - the mechanic lifted the car from the back right hand side by approximately 30 degrees. - he then put an oil pan under the car, used the proper tool to unscrew the drain plug and let the sump drain for about five minutes - he then replaced the sealing ring with a new one, put on the drain plug and tightened it - he then put the car back to its horizontal position and filled the engine with fresh oil total cost 178 Euros (I live in the Euro zone), approximately the same in US dollars regards <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

Yasou Kosta. Thats nuts for 178 Euros and NO FILTER. Ego mono hreono 115 dollaria. Ladia me to filtro! Theo

hi do you recommend I should drive to Florida to make it cheaper? by the way this price is for BP 7000 oil including tax at 18% regards

I source the oil in the USA (US$5/quart) and change it myself (free). Total cost about $47 including the filter. But taking it to Florida might be an excellent idea. I've seen oil changes advertised for $9.95 down there!! S.

[No author-written text remains after quoted material was removed.]

Boy do I feel STUPID! I assumed as with the system on my bimmer that the 996's also required the oil to be sucked out the sump, and therefore making a complete "*** uf me-self"! So I am going to start doing this myself and save a few coins. So, 30 degrees on the right rear of the car, drain for 5 minutes, replace seal on drain plug (is that really necessary everytime I change my oil?), and fill when the car is lowered and level. Now for the real dumb azz question- Can someone be so kind as to send me a snapshot of the drain plugs location? At the rate my stupidity is going at this moment I will drain something else thinking it's the "EARL". TIA

I'm not sure I would use the "lift one corner" approach. It will most certainly leave old oil in the sump. I think the better approach is to find a nice level area and drive you car onto four short 2x6s or something similar. Then jack the right rear corner an inch or two if you need a little more room. Drop the oil plug (it's right in the middle of the oil pan). Change the filter, then lower the jack to make sure all oil drains. I wouldn't use a 5 minute rule. Drain it until it stops completely. Replace the plug with a new washer and fill it up. As easy as that. BTW, warm the car up a bit before draining the oil. As always, just my opinion. Jim

May I extend my condolences to your wives or girlfriends now to all of you who are putting your Porsche up on boards, single jacks and other contraptions. Your Porsche weighs 3000 lbs! And has all of 6 inches ground clearance. Every year countless people are crushed beneath cars that just happened to slip. All so you could save $50 on an oil change? If you want to save the money, spend the first change's savings on quality ramps or stands. If you want to get every drop, get 4 stands and set the car up high and level. But for goodness sake, don't climb underneath something that isn't professionally secured.

After reading appleads2 response I went back to my post to ensure that I had been clear in my instructions. Years ago I had a friend crushed under a car the fell off jackstands so I'm pretty diligent about saftey. Here are a couple of additional comments. First, if you are working on anything that requires the removal of your wheels, I would agree that the car should be on jackstands. If you only need a couple of inches and are not removing your wheels then I believe that you are better off driving the car on blocks. I would never use a block greater than 2 inches high and never less than 6 inches wide. I actually use 2 foot long 2x12s. Obviously, block the wheels, engage the brake and put the car in gear. I frequently put my 996 on jackstands but let's face it, it's not the most rock solid procedure given that you have to fake the third jack point. Second, when I said lift the car an inch or two I probably wasn't clear that I meant lift the body an inch not the tire. The tire will stay firmly on the block, even with the stiffest suspension. This gives you a bit more clearance without making the car the least bit unstable and if the jack gave out the car drops in inch. BTW, you will not be under the car anyway. The work is all done by reaching under not crawling. My 996 is a very low track car so this step probably isn't needed for most. Finally, I don't think many owners change their own oil to save money. We work on our own cars for the enjoyment. The best part of our cars can't be seen without getting dirty. I say, be safe but don't be afraid to DIY.

In our local Boxster group we let the women change the oil. Same procedure on a 996 except that you do it from the right side. Jeff