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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
In fact, I pressure tested the tank tonight, and no air leaks.
Need ideas - permanently plug coolant reservoir level sensor hole
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Leading evidence: 'Test tank tonight, and no air leaks' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'sensor hole' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace quality' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Need ideas - permanently plug coolant reservoir level sensor hole
sensor hole
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Suspected cause · Original poster
it must have been a loose worm clamp, and the coolant traveled down the bottom of the tank, making it appear that it was the sensor hole.
Need ideas - permanently plug coolant reservoir level sensor hole
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Replace quality
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Suggestion · Original poster
At least this time, I can plainly see the origin of the leak (change quality to 720HD for better viewing)
Need ideas - permanently plug coolant reservoir level sensor hole
Replace tank since you are so far into this project
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Suggestion
First, if it were me, I would replace the tank since you are so far into this project.
Need ideas - permanently plug coolant reservoir level sensor hole
Test can never duplicate
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Suggestion
Also, vacuum is not a good way to verify leak because when the tank leaks, it's the positive pressure, about 2 bars that "pushes" open the crack which vacuum test can never duplicate.
Need ideas - permanently plug coolant reservoir level sensor hole
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
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21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T053112Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Spent 3 hours last night removing supercharger parts in order to get to the coolant reservoir. There's a leak at the level sensor. I can't believe it's just a "plastic to plastic" connection... no rubber o'ring, nothing (according to the PET).
Need some ideas on how to permanently plug that hole (without the sensor). A boat plug? Whatever is used, it would have to withstand some very high (and low) temperatures.
Let the ideas flow (no pun intended)...
New tank time. The connection however it is assembled/sealed/secured should not leak. You really need the sensor there. These engines, tanks, get low on coolant enough that having that warning may be the difference between just a tank or an engine.
Tank is only 2 years old. I'd rather drill and put in my own sensor
on the side of the tank
. Why the heck haven't we all found a different take (with a bleeder, etc.) to use? This car is over a decade old. Ford, Chevy, Saab? Somewhere, there has to be a tank that will fit, and not cause us so much damn trouble! My 2 cents.
Agree with Macster. If you drill a hole, you won't get the reinforced boss like the original hole so you may create anohter weak spot waiting to be exploded.
First, if it were me, I would replace the tank since you are so far into this project. Seems like the most cost efficient permanent solution. Second, if you are willing to experiment, agree with the high temp glue/sealer for the tank sensor...then have the tank pressure tested. Doing an all out delete I think is not a good idea as there is a sound reason for having a low level sensor in the tank. That said, if going the delete route, how about a brass/rubber expansion plug like what is used on a engine block? Finding the right size might be tricky but it might work. A local radiator shop probably has one that would fit. I would take a dremel and cut off the upper housing part that holds the sensor in place leaving the reinforced tank boss. I would definitely have the tank pressure tested before reinstalling.
If I recall the sensor does not contact the coolant at all. It sits in a slot in the coolant tank ( held in by rotating 90 degrees?). Sensor works by sensing the radiated temperature rather than having contact with coolant.
This is correct. The sensor seals nothing. It is a non liquid contact sensor that goes through (a possibly thinner?) the tank wall. If you have leak there it is a defect in the tank and you have to replace it anyway.
SteveDavies, perryinva, StephenB --
thank you! I assumed way too much
. In fact, I pressure tested the tank tonight, and no air leaks. I used the uView vacuum. The gauge held at 25 for 5+ minutes. So... it must have been a loose worm clamp, and the coolant traveled down the bottom of the tank, making it appear that it was the sensor hole.
Now... to put all of this back together.
Make sure you have the latest coolant tank cap ending in P/N 04. Could be the cause of coolant leaking down and underneath the coolant tank. Looks like a good project so far!
Indeed,
I don't have
the new cap ending in 04. Spent 4 hours last night putting the SC back on, etc... only to still see a leak this morning, after a drive. At least this time, I can plainly see the origin of the leak (change quality to 720HD for better viewing)
2000 Porsche Carrera Coolant Tank Leak - YouTube
I've contacted my indy mechanic who put this in to see if the part can be returned under warranty.
Looks like I'll be taking the SC off again!
I suppose another option would be to plastic weld the leak. From the research I've done, I believe the plastic is polyethelene.
I'm shocked that that leak didn't show up under a 25PSI pressure test. WTF? I feel for you. That tank is a total bitch to remove and install. Wanted to heave mine across the garage when I finally got it out.
To KK, I agree, I don't think the sensor uses temperature for level, as there is no way for it to know "what" temperature is valid. I am curious if anyone knows how it does work. I assumed it was magnetic reed switch, and there was a captured magnetic float, but to be honest, when I had mine out, I don't recall seeing anything like that when I flushed it out.
Unfortunately the OP only relied on pulling vacuum to verify leak. Vacuum is only ~14 PSI so not enough to open the crack. Also, vacuum is not a good way to verify leak because when the tank leaks, it's the positive pressure, about 2 bars that "pushes" open the crack which vacuum test can never duplicate.
I thought twice about putting that tank back in, with just a vacuum test. I should have rigged something up and used my air compressor. Lesson learned...
Even that may not be enough though since some tanks leak only when they heat up (by the coolant) so only an in-car test will be the most accurate.
Anyways, the bright side is now you're 100% sure the tank is leaking so you won't feel bad spending the money on a new tank. Some tanks leak such that they weep and drop the coolant on the exhaust so the coolant just disappear w/o a trace. Almost impossible to trace visually.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
