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YOUR RESEARCHIs there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?
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Install mounts
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I hit the nuts with some PB blaster 1 week before while I was changing my oil, then again on the day I installed the new mounts.
Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?
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Is there a way, or do we just assume they need to be replaced after so many miles.
Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?
Use floor jack
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I put the car on ramps for room to crawl under, then used a floor jack to support the engine.
Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?
Use jacks while doing
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the reason I used jacks while doing replacing motor mounts was the rest of my to-do items.
Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?
Use long extension and 18 mm deep socket
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I laid on my back used a long extension and 18 mm deep socket.
Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?
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All the threads I've found say to use jackstands to hold the rear of the car up, is there a good reason not to use ramps instead? Is access a problem with ramps?
I did mine without even raising the car up. Just supported the engine witha floor jack from underneth. The lower mount bolt is easily accessible with the car on the ground.
^^ LOL !
I've been considering this DIY myself. How do you know if the mounts need to be replaced ? Is there a way, or do we just assume they need to be replaced after so many miles.
Passenger seat shakes when stopped, left side of engine hangs a bit lower (judging by exhaust outlets) and the shifting could be smoother (which is one of the things people seem to say is improved after changing - I think mine could be better so it's worth a try).
At 11-12 years old these parts take up a lot of the vibrations, it's probably time. And relatively cheap.
Thanks. I do have a slight difference on the left side as well judging by the tips, but no obvious shake. Looks like this will be a fun DIY Summer! Which mounts are you going with ?
Nah just use a pair of vice grips you will be fine!
I laid on my back used a long extension and 18 mm deep socket. The nut is really on there. One of mine the whole stud threaded out of the mount and I had to take the nut off of the stud in my vice later. Make sure you hit them with some PB Blaster before you start.
Did this a few weeks ago, very easy. As stated, shoot some PB Blaster on the bolts the night before. No need to raise the car, just support the engine under the mount right behind the pan.
the reason I used jacks while doing replacing motor mounts was the rest of my to-do items. I figured grouping the following tasks into one DIY made sense to put the car on jacks all around and remove tires:
Here is how it all started
1- i need swap from blizzaks to sumitomos. After all its may in Denver and finally stopped snowing
2- replace brake pads and flush fluid while the wheels are off
3-if the wheels are off might as well do the spark plugs because it is easier to reach in there.
4-while changing spark plugs remembered the new motor mounts that have been sitting on the bench since January.
Thank you, I will, but if this is just a ploy to get me to raid my kids' piggybanks and come downstairs with a bag of cash and take your car off your hands, it will not work!
(But the neighbors might!)
This is a great DIY project - takes very little time and effort and the benefit is pretty significant.
Here's our DIY article on the subject to guide you through the process:
Replacing your Engine Mounts
And the product's page within our catalog:
996 Engine Mounts
Mark / Pelican Parts
I used ramps, and a jack to support the engine. You definitely need an 18mm deep socket to get the bolts underneath. Other than that, very straightforward.
GL,
DS
Ha Ha...
Nope, just love these cars. This is a really satisfying project, and the rewards are obvious. Makes it feel much younger. And don't we all need that?
I had the same issue with the passenger side mount. The stud threaded off from the mount as the stud/post was quite corroded. Using a vise, I managed to get the flange nut out of the stud after many shots of BD Blaster and a long half-inch wrench. I was a bit worried for a bit as for the 1st 5 minutes, it didn't want to budge as the stud was turning in the vise and darkness was threatening this front-driveway job. I did not expect such good firm Canadian salt rust, eventhough it is a West Coast car.
The car felt somewhat tighter during the drive to work this morning. Both mount's elastomeric rubbers had elongated by about 5 mm - a bit less than expected after 13 yrs and 143k kms. Used Rein's mounts as replacement - same as Pelican but purchased at a Vancouver indie.
Doing it again, I would replace both 18-mm flange nuts as well with new hardware to make it an easier dismount next time.
I did mine a few weeks ago. I just placed a plank under each wheel to give me a few extra inches to work with and it was quicker than using jack stands.
As everyone else indicated, replacing the mounts was straightforward. Since the filter box has to be removed it was a good time to spray-clean my MAF. I also sprayed the dust out of the SAI motor since it was out anyway.
I went with the RSS semi-solid engine mounts. They were double the price of the stock mounts but were still pretty cheap. They look great (FWIW) and should wear better than the stock ones. The car is definitely tighter and the increased noise in the cabin makes the experience a little more what I was expecting from a 911 :-)
Finally got around to doing the mounts today. Waited for the 4year old to take a nap, set the 6 year old up with Spongebob, backed the car on the ramps and started. I literally spent more time finding the correct tools than I did wrenching on the car. I found it easiest to complete one side at a time, figured that would minimize any engine movement while the jack was supporting it, then did the final tightening once both were in. Worked like a charm.
Seat vibration is virtually gone, and the shifting has improved SIGNIFICANTLY with much smoother engagements and less "clunkiness". Left exhaust outlet still hanging a bit lower than the right one though, will have to crawl back under and see how to adjust at a later date (tomorrow's nap time maybe)
I just got the regular mounts from Pelican, very happy with the improvement. Comparing them the old ones were extended by about 1/4" compared to the new ones.
X2 I feel dumb for not having done this sooner. Very easy, relatively cheap, and huge driving experience improvement. I hit the nuts with some PB blaster 1 week before while I was changing my oil, then again on the day I installed the new mounts. Still took a breaker bar to get them off, but not too difficult. I put the car on ramps for room to crawl under, then used a floor jack to support the engine.
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