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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAnother alternator question!!!
Reported or suspected cause
regulator
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Suggestion
I recently had to replace the Bosch regulator on my 2004 ML350 Mercedes @ 55k miles due to a worn brush's intermittent contact causing the alt light to flicker.
Leading evidence: 'regulator' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'regulator' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace bosch regulator' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I recently had to replace the Bosch regulator on my 2004 ML350 Mercedes @ 55k miles due to a worn brush's intermittent contact causing the alt light to flicker.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Yup, planning to take the alternator off to replace the regulator.
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Suggestion
If the beatings feel fine, I would replace the regulator assembly and put it back.
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Suggestion
Exactly...I'd just replace the whole unit and be done with it.
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Replace bosch regulator
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Suggestion
I recently had to replace the Bosch regulator on my 2004 ML350 Mercedes @ 55k miles due to a worn brush's intermittent contact causing the alt light to flicker.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Also found a neat trick in getting the rear flange pushed back out for re-installation; using a 22mm socket on the end where you want to flange to push out to, that socket is the perfect size where the flange can push right thru to the inside of the socket; then using a c clamp or vice, you can squeeze that flange back out.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Also found a neat trick in getting the rear flange pushed back out for re-installation; using a 22mm socket on the end where you want to flange to push out to, that socket is the perfect size where the flange can push right thru to the inside of the socket; then using a c clamp or vice, you can squeeze that flange back out.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Was just trying to gauge people's experience as to whether this single replacement fixed the problem.
Just had a new clutch, water pump, and LME IMS put into my '01 Cab about 2 weeks ago and the thing is running perfect at 60K miles! Over the last couple days I notice something weird with the charging...when I start the car idling and also driving along the needle is just like it always has been around 13 - 13.5v charging. When I bring the car to a stop after about 20 mins of driving around, and the car is idling, the charge continuously drops to just a little above the 12v mark; basically not charging.
Does this mean that the alternator itself is probably OK and that the issue is the voltage regulator? or could it be either?
I'm debating whether to just buy the regulator (cheap) and try that, or if I'm going to pull it out should I just take it to a place to get reconditioned?
Any experience or advice is appreciated...
Thanks,Will
The regulator is bolted to the back of the alternator and therefore consider them as a single piece. You have to pull the alternator to remove the regulator. To me the only real way to test it is by taking it off the car and bench testing it in a shop.
The brushes are also mounted in/on the regulator and they wear out and cause similar problems to the one you are experiencing. I recently had to replace the Bosch regulator on my 2004 ML350 Mercedes @ 55k miles due to a worn brush's intermittent contact causing the alt light to flicker. This alternator is the same as the one on my 2003 C2 with the exception of it having the solid pulley for automatics, not the sprag clutch pulley that is on the 996 6 speed..
Pic of 996 regulator
Yup, planning to take the alternator off to replace the regulator. Was just trying to gauge people's experience as to whether this single replacement fixed the problem. The difference would be having to put it off/on twice!! Meaning if I swap out the regulator, put it back on...doesn't fix the problem...then I have to take it off again and have it rebuilt!
I was surprised that the Mercedes alternator could have bolted right up to the 996. Probably makes sense for standardization at the component level for the suppliers also, so I guess the commonality shouldn't be too surprising.
It was on the regulator from the Mercedes also. Even though it wasn't part of the number on the box.
I think the first part of the number "F00M" is for when it goes bad.
--F-O-O-M!!"
So I decided this weekend that I would take the alternator to a shop to get it rebuilt (new bearings, regulator etc). Cost was ~$200 so it seems like the best deal vs ordering a new rebuilt Bosch alternator (~$400).
There are some great DIY online so the getting out the alternator was pretty straightforward. Also found a neat trick in getting the rear flange pushed back out for re-installation; using a 22mm socket on the end where you want to flange to push out to, that socket is the perfect size where the flange can push right thru to the inside of the socket; then using a c clamp or vice, you can squeeze that flange back out.
While everything was out (airbox mostly) I swapped out the engine mounts as well.
I get the alternator back today and hopefully my issue will have gone away!
Yes - it was the regulator that was faulty. But I had them do the rest of the rebuild while it was out of the car and in their shop. Figured new bearing and a little cleaning was worth the money!!!