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YOUR RESEARCHMinimum height for transmission removal
Leading reported evidence
Use floor jacks
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I built custom cradles to hold each component and used my floor jacks to lower them at the same time.
Leading evidence: 'Use floor jacks' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust angle of the plate, and it has proven useful' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use Pelican alot too but I must admit I found a brand new LUK flywheel about $200 cheaper than Pelican.
Adjust angle of the plate, and it has proven useful
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Suggestion
Good think about the trans jack is that you will be able to adjust the angle of the plate, and it has proven useful to me
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Suggestion
You WILL need an adjustable trans jack that you can adjust the angle while the trans sits on it (safety strap trans).
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Suggestion
Sand, you can get it a little higher with the use of a short 4X4 on your jacks while you adjust front and back jackstands higher.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I'm pulling the transmission and my jack only allows me to raise the car about 18" measured from the jack support point to the ground. I'm not sure I'll be able to get it out from under the car attached to the trans jack.
Is that enough or do I need to figure out a way to get it higher? I searched several of the threads here and it appears many pull the transmission with the car lower than mine is now (
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-complete.html
), but I'm not sure how.
photo (1).JPG
If it needs to go higher how did you do it? Thanks.
I don't no. It may work, but it will be tight.
I did a 964 that way and it seems to me I had to raise the car more than 18". My jack stands are 24". I could get the transaxle out, but even 24" was not enough for the engine, so I had to rig up a crane to lift the body enough to roll out the engine.
I built custom cradles to hold each component and used my floor jacks to lower them at the same time.
My stands will go higher but I don't have a jack that will. I thought about rigging up some sort of jack extension/spacer but I wonder how stable it'd be. I guess I could rent a high lift but I thought I'd see what others did first.
Sand, you can get it a little higher with the use of a short 4X4 on your jacks while you adjust front and back jackstands higher. Two jacks is a must for lifting the 996.
You WILL need an adjustable trans jack that you can adjust the angle while the trans sits on it (safety strap trans). You will be able to get it out by using that feature. The trans is not that heavy but be careful.
Im sorry I didnt take photos of lifting mine, as I recently did this.
I have 21" clear under the frame. Hopefully that'll be enough for the trans and jack. If not, I'll have to remove it from the jack and drag it out like we did on my son's RX8.
photo (4).JPG
Now, as soon as it cools off a bit, I can go back to work...
photo (5).JPG
hi,
I have removed my transmission 4 or 5 times in my garage using a similar set up.
I had the jacks fully extended + 4 12x12 concrete patio stone under each so I think you will still be tight
(my jacks were shorter than yours though)
the trans is very heavy and fairly hard to get to / get to the bolts, I would recommend investing the $80 in a trans jack.
Good think about the trans jack is that you will be able to adjust the angle of the plate, and it has proven useful to me
I have a Big Red 1/2 ton trans jack I purchased a couple of years ago when we did the RX8 clutch. Wouldn't try it without one.
Why'd you remove the trans 4 or 5 times?
I didn't get any further today on the trans but I did pick up one of these:
photo (6).JPG
When I tried to remove the rear sway bar I couldn't get the 15mm open end wrench on the jam nut - the end was too wide to fit. So I went to Sears to see if they had a narrow wrench that would fit. They didn't, but this box was $485 and since I've been waiting for the perfect opportunity to buy one and I'm sick and tired of working out of one drawer for all my tools, I bought it.
Unfortunately now I have to fill it with tools...
I'm anxious to find whether this is a RMS or IMS leak, or both.
oil leak.jpg
I saved all my parts to a project list at Pelican:
Clutch, PP, TOB
DM flywheel
IMS bearing and tools
AOS
clutch slave cylinder
misc bolts, seals, sealants
special install tools
clutch lever, pivot, etc
Essentially refurbishing the back end of the motor/trans. Total for all parts is around $4000. I could save a few hundred by not using the sport clutch and pp. If the flywheel is still good I could leave that and save another $800, but at 85k miles I'm not sure that would be prudent. I won't know till I inspect it, but I don't want to have to do this again in 6 months or a year. I'd just assume do it now while i'm in there even if it is a little earlier than it could be.
I use Pelican alot too but I must admit I found a brand new LUK flywheel about $200 cheaper than Pelican. Wish they would price match.
You are right about changing flywheel. Dont forget about the updated case bolts.
photo.JPG
So the answer is - Yes, the transmission is too tall to pull from under the car unless:
You use the adjustments to tilt the jack base so the transmission just slides under the car with a few small tugs (what I did)
You remove the transmission from the jack (what I did last time)
You have a low profile transmission jack (what I don't have)
You use a lift (lucky you if you have one)
My car is 22" clear from pavement to base of jack pads. The jack stands are Esco set on the highest position. The transmission is 9" to the top of the base pad the trans rests on.
photo-1.JPG
Lots of pics but I'll start a new thread to keep this one on topic...
Some may say its dangerous to have the car not level, but I have lowers the front jacks to raise the rear end and get more clearance. Regardless of attitude the point loads remain the same on the jacks.
