Had oil service done-dealer used Castro over Mobil

Just had my oil service done and noticed instead of using Mobil One they used Castro syntec. Also it costs more then Mobil One ($9.50 vs $7.50). Why it costs more since they are the same? Regards. Mike

Jeez... and I gripe about paying $4.95 a liter at Kragen for Mobil 1.

Darn I'm being ripped off left/right!!! With about 8 quarts it's almost $80 for oil-Aghhhhhh!!!! Mike

Do it yourself, or find a spot that lets you take the oil in. Is that an option for you? Jason

I have a better idea. During the tech sessions for our DE's we allow folks who volunteer to use one of the lifts in the host shop for small simple tasks. Oil certainly fits into that unless you have a 993. So join your local PCA region, volunteer for a little teching and you will have all of the help you need in oil changing. My last change cost $5 for the filter cartridge and $32 for the Mobil 1. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

They put Castrol Syntec in mine. I had mine changed at 2200 miles 'cause oil analysis showed high silicon and fuel contents in oil. I was curious, but didn't question it at the time. Am changing it again at 6600 miles. The second oil analysis showed lower contents of fuel and silicon (dirt). I'm having dealer do this so I have a record should the contaminants (sp?) content not go down. Should I stay with Castrol or ask for Mobil 1. (with Castrol Synted they used 10W-30) which is acceptable according to manual. What's so good about 0W-50 anyway. I keep seeing it mentioned...

Good advice about the tech session. Also, about bringing your own stuff. I usually bring both filters, and oil to the dealer and ask them to do just the labor on the 993. Actually I do that for most fluids, and some other repairs also. They don't mind. but, I haven't pushed it too far. I have heard good things about Casrtol syntec lately. I would still prefer Mobil 1 if the $ is about the same, but if there is a difference in price, Castrol seems to be getting some good press.

So, my car came from the factory w/mobil-1. Dealer changed to Castrol Syntec. Ready for next change. Should I stay with Castrol or go back to Mobil 1 the "official oil for Porsche" (if price is not a factor)?? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

So Don- did Castrol showed less contaminants then mobil One? If that's the case would stick with castrol-syntec. need to check which weight they used-I'll post again the weight they used on my car. Mike

Dealer used 5w-50 castrol-syntec. Have you noticed any difference driving wise Don? Must be in my head because feels like my engine is running like slick on ice but then again oil changes do that : ). It's always nice to know if anything helps to make your car sing : ). Regards. Mike

I didn't notice any difference. The contaminants that were in my first (mobil 1) oil change were higher than normal fuel content and higher than normal silicon (dirt content)..I guess both from outside elements. The second check, with the Castrol had lower fuel and silicon content, so maybe I'll stick with the Castrol if only to get some kind of baseline. Had I been smart enuf I would have specified at first oil change...but never assume! Would be interested to know what weights you guys use.

FWIW, Porsche has approved the following engine oils for use in your cars: - Castrol Syntec 5W-50 - Exxon Superflo Supreme Special 15W-40 - Mobil 1 5W-30 - Mobil 1 10W-30 - Mobil 1 15W-50 - Sun Oil Sunoco Synturo Gold 5W-40 - Texaco Havoline Formula 3 Synthetic 5W-40 - Valvoline High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 As to which weight is good for your particular application, refer to your owner's manual.

Viken, Mobil 1 has the European formula 0W-40 that surpasses Mercedes Benz's standard, I forget the exact number but it may have been 229.1 or some odd decimal. What exactly is this and is this really that much better than 15W-50? My mechanic says that the 996 TT now needs the 0W-40 OR ELSE............I find it hard to believe that just a few clicks in viscosity will make an engine not function properly.

0W/40 was the word from Porsche on the Turbo last March or so (01) and shortly there-after got word it was newly recomended by Benz on our AMG......at that time I just switched over to it completely......I do recall some posts from back then that Porsche was fairly direct in their recomendation.....that others commented the tolorances in those engines were so tight that this was of some importance.....GreggT

As of 11/30/2001 there is a TSB which states the following approved oils. [quote]Date: 11-30-01 Vehicle Type: 911 Carrera (996) / 911 Carrera 4 (996) Model Year: As of 1999 (X) Concern: Engine oils approved by Porsche Information: Beginning January 24th 2001 all Porsche vehicle are now factory filled with 0W40 Mobil 1 engine oil. The engine oils listed in this Technical Information are approved for the 911 Carrera (996) / 911 Carrera 4 (996). They can also be used for all 4, 6 and 8 cylinder Porsche engines from model 1973 onwards. The 911 Turbo (996) is an exception in this case - see Technical Information 911 Turbo (996) Group 1, No. 5/00. <hr></blockquote>

OK, Loren, I'll bite...what is NCP G or GL?

Okay, maybe I should post the whole (boring) TSB... Here is an excerpt with the explanation: [quote]Explanations: Oil quality and non-conventional basic oils: The basic oil and the additives added to it essentially determine the properties of engine oil. Non-conventional basic oils (synthetic or hydrocrack) have more favorable properties as compared to conventional oils (mineral oil). Non-conventional oils are relatively similar with respect to performance, regardless of whether they were produced using the synthetic or hydrocrack process. In our approved oil list (Type column), the engine oils are identified as follows: cp = basic oil produced conventionally - "conventional processing" (mineral oil). ncp = basic oil not produced conventionally - "non-conventional processing" (synthetic or hydrocrack). Non-seasonal "GL" light running oils: GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. They have a particularly low tendency to evaporate at high temperatures due to their composition. The oils, that meet such high performance requirements, essentially synthetic or hydrocrack oils, can be used without restriction as non-seasonal oils (see approval list, "Type" column). Non-seasonal "G" oils: GL oils can be used as non~seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils<hr></blockquote>

I thought with the new cars and the synthetic oil, you did not need to change the oil until the first 15,000

[quote]Originally posted by Lucas: <strong>I thought with the new cars and the synthetic oil, you did not need to change the oil until the first 15,000</strong><hr></blockquote> Guess it depends on how **** you are about brake-in, your engine, oil, etc......personally, I've gotten that oil out shortly after brake-in or at least before 3000.....GreggT

[quote]Originally posted by Loren: <strong>As of 11/30/2001 there is a TSB which states the following approved oils. </strong><hr></blockquote> What's with 1973?? Why are the oils not OK for pre-73?? Different cylinder liner material???

Wasn't "****" about changing oil after 2200 miles. I had it analyzed by <a href="http://www.youroil.net" target="_blank">http://www.youroil.net</a> as a cautionary measure because it was a new car. When the analysis showed up with higher than normal amounts of fuel and silicon (dirt), I had it changed at that time. I decided to check again at 6000 miles and the results were better, but not something I'm totally satisfied with. Thus, I'm changing the oil again at 6k and will have it analyzed again at 12K. If I'm not satisfied with the results I'll have discussions with the dealer. If not, I'm home free and will revert to the regular oil change schedule. I think that is a very safe (and inexpensive) way to check on a 100k asset.

Don, where did you get the oil analysis? Did you pay extra or was that part of the dealer service?

Does anyone know whether there is an outfit in the UK that does oil analysis?

[quote]Originally posted by Paul in CA: <strong>Don, where did you get the oil analysis? Did you pay extra or was that part of the dealer service?</strong><hr></blockquote> Paul, Larry Turner, a Rennlist member, offers this service. Click <a href="http://www.youroil.net/" target="_blank">here</a>.

Paul in CA...if you go to this website. <a href="http://www.youroil.net" target="_blank">www.youroil.net</a> you can get all the details. The guy who runs it is Larry Turner, a Rennlist contributor. Process is very simple. It's like 12 bucks if I remember correctly. You send for the kit which is a long tube and a bellows container. You just suck the oil sample out thru yor dipstick "tube" seal the little container and send in a pre-paid box they send you with the kit. You have to fill out some stuff on a form and then send it off. For the cost it's certainly worth it to me 'cause I'm on warranty and I want to establish a clear record in case something is wrong. I'm attaching a copy of my report on a jpeg file, so it may or may not be readable. If you want I can email you the pdf file if you have acrobat reader. Well worth the money in INMO You can also email Larry at [email removed]