Hard Shifting

I have about 65,000 mikes on her and just replaced the clutch and the RMS. It's getting harder and harder to go from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. 1st to 2nd is the hardest. It isn't a clutch thing, it's a trans thing. I'm wondering if the syncros are beginning to go? How can I tell? If they are, any idea what the cost is to replace them? Do you replace all or just the ones that are bad? Could it be something else? Shift cables, tranny lube? Thought appreciated.

Synchros is what I'd think. Even with a dragging clutch the synchros should allow the gears to mesh with a little labor. Possibly the linkage is a source of problems. But from past experience lower gears synchros are what went on me first. Not sure if its the titronic or manual trans or both that are only good for one rebuild since pressing seals in stress's the housing. Try finding a do it yourself for aligning linkage trying to avoid the costly end?

Isnt that low mileage for synchronizers to be bad? Was it shifting easier before clutch install (other than a worn clutch issue)? How did the oil look from the trans when you changed it? Was there a brake/clutch fluid flush? Was it installed then test driven by a reputable shop? I think I would start with asking the shop first just in case its related to the install job and linkage.

The shop is very reputable, all they work on is Porsche's, Ferrari's and Mercedes and I've used them for years. No fluid flushes and it's about the same as it was before the clutch, it's just getting progressively worse.

I assume you mean the trans oil was changed but hydraulic (brake/clutch) system was not flushed? How did the trans oil look? I would still ask the shop since they did the last work involving trans. Just seems early for synchros but they are not expensive if thats the case. Cheapest part of a manual trans (other than oil).

That's good to hear. Any guess on the cost? I didn't see the trans oil.

Shift cables loose from the "clamps" on the side of the trans?? Often happens after trans removal. Air in the clutch line?

I had a 2nd gear synchro replaced on my last Porsche SC and it was $1700. back in 1994.

I didnt say the labor was cheap, i meant the parts. Even if he does not do it himself, its cheaper than an auto. If its even a synchro problem. I would check with shop first if you are not comfortable with self diagnosis.

Was it difficult to shift prior to the clutch job?

Quotes source post: 10040387

Same symptoms, same price in 2009.

I had just purchased my SC from a Porsche dealer, with 21k miles on it and was told the Porsche needed nothing. I drove it a couple hundred miles, made a phone call and wrote a letter to the dealer explaining my shifting problem....they fixed my SC, handed me a bill for $1,700. and told me I didn't owe them a dime. Needless to say, I bought 2 more cars(Audis) from the same dealer.

It was getting difficult prior to the new clutch. Was the same after the clutch. It's just been the past few weeks that it has gotten really bad. Can I hurt the trans or anything more by driving it this way or will it get progressively worse?

I have that issue going from 2nd to 3rd, but only when the engine is relatively cold. It never happens after the car has been driven for 5 minutes or more. I am having my clutch done in January and will have my Indy look at the syncro's as well. I suspect that is the problem.

Quotes source post: 10041087

If the shifting is due to say the clutch fluid needing to be flushed/bled or a leaking clutch piston or a slave cylinder any of which can prevent the clutch from completely disengaging and remaining disengaged during the shift even though the clutch pedal is fully depressed continuing to drive the car will hurt the transmission. If the difficulty in shifting is in the transmission the hardware that is at the root cause of the symptom will get progressively worse. In using more force to shift the balky transmission other healthy transmission components are subjected to more wear and tear. Thus say if the synchros are at the root of the problem, the shifter forks, shifter linkage experience more wear and tear. This can then affect other components in the transmission that are as of now ok. If the wear and tear causes one or more components to shed wear metal this can damage bearings and seals. A bearing failure can take out the case. The bottom line is just like an engine making abnormal noises never gets better by continuing to use (run) the engine a transmission exhibiting shifting issues never gets better by continuing to use the transmission. Your best course of action is to have the cause of the shifting problems id'd and addressed.

Great point Macster. I don't have time to take it in now, but I only drive the car to and from the train station each day. Maybe 20 minutes total each day. And like Gonzo says, when the car is cold is when it's the worst. When it warms up, it's much smoother.

Thanks for all of your feedback!