Clutch problem after break change.

I had my front break pads replaced as there was an error on the dashboard so i got new pads and sensors and brackets. This was done at a local shop I have never been too. When I picked up the car, i noticed something wrong with the clutch. Right now when I press the clutch pedeal maybe an inch I can feel it vibrating. I thought maybe I need the new helper cylinder. Then I noticed that when I press the gas pedal the Rev get really high before the car starts moving and then they start catching up to the revs, its like the clutch is half way engaged. Is there something the mechanic could have done to screw up my car? I thought maybe remove clutch oil or something.

Prob air in the lines or just really bad coincidence your slave cylinder went out at the same time. Have them bleed the brakes again PROPERLY, INCLUDING the slave cylinder (uses same fluid and reservior as brakes). A good write up: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/B...26_Clutch.html

yeah took it out and beat the snot out of it.... I think the clutch and BRAKEs use the same fluid res, so if they, by mistake blead the res dry, they need to bleed the clutch too.

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Ok took it back to the mechanic to complain, and he said they never bleed the system just changed the front pads and didn't touch anything else. He said the symptoms are of clutch going and I have one day of driving left since the clutch is burning up that's why its slipping when I accelerate. I noticed the problems right when I picked up the car from the brake change that the clutch was going in too easy and vibrating little bit, it just got worse with time. Not sure what the odds are of clutching giving up at exactly the same time as my break change. And specially it seemed perfect before that, no slipping, engaging at the top of the clutch pedal. I am assuming that if it was clutch going it would need a deeper engagement point before crapping out. When I press the clutch pedal and release it real quick it jumps back really quickly and makes a sort of thumping noise. The mechanic is 100% sure its the clutch going. What do you think? Should I just do the bleed somewhere else and see if that helps I guess way better than the $3000 clutch job.

Bleeding the slave cylinder is easy and cheap. Since you're saying the work done on the brakes and clutch symptoms happened "at the same time', personally that's where I would start before removing the transmission and changing out the clutch. Slave cylinders can also go 'bad'... Since you seem to be having engagment problems that would be the first place to look. IIRC the clutch "pass/fail" test is to put car in 2nd and try to take off slowly. If it's gone the car won't accelerate but the RPMs will go up.

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If the clutch is truly slipping a fluid bleed is not going to help the old clutch. You can try it but... A clutch fluid bleed should be done after the new clutch is installed to help the new clutch live long and prosper. I do not know the history of the car so if you've been pushing the car thrashing it at the track the clutch could have just reached the end of its service life at this time. Sometimes a coincidence is just a coincidence. But I've had at least one car -- not a Porsche though -- subjected to abuse when I had the car in for service at a dealer. The tech took the car out on his lunch break and thrashed the heck out of the car. Fortunately the car suffered no apparent damage and when this happened again at another dealer if you can believe it I traded in the car for another Porsche. It might be the height of paranoia, but you might want to have the DME overrev counters read and see if any overrevs occurred in the time the car was in for this brake job...the time stamps won't prove conclusively the overrevs occurred while the car was in the shop but at least you'll know and maybe you can scare some goodwill out of the shop that did the brakes and cooked the clutch, if of course that is what happened. Or you might never know. Sincerely, Macster.

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2 and 3rd gear start no problem. wont even rev past 3k RPM. I went to a second mechanic to do the bleed, he thinks its a pressure bearing because of the clutch pedal vibration when you press the clutch. Either way he is doing the bleed right now and I hope for the best.

Certainly Macster has a great point, if it was fine when you brought in and then something was wrong after they did the work, then ... - of course the shop that did the work should be held accountable (have a reputable shop fix it and send the other shop the bill, etc.). - there is always chance of an abusive test drive by a third party. On the other hand, if they were doing brake work, and it involved brake lines or fluid (etc.) as often it can when doing brake work (pads or whatnot), then there is a chance that air got introduced into the system and that air or foreign material made it's way to the slave cylinder and it is causing strange pedal action and engagement issues. I guess aside from that more probable explanation or the "abuse scenario", perhaps you are just more sensitive to the car after the brake work was performed and the issue with the clutch had been "brewing" all along, and you just became more aware of it after the brake job. ??? IDK, just playing the grand ol' internet guessing game. Also, as easy as it is to bleed the slave cylinder and brakes, I would say this is something that should be done much more often than just clutch swap time. In fact, at minimum every two years, and if you track the car (or other DE, MUCH more often than that!!!).

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So bleeding the system didn't work, the only logical explanation is that my IMS went and I need to tow my car to Jake at Flat6. It feels like push plate went, so need a new clutch kit I guess. It might have been just a big coincidence that it happen right at break job

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You are grasping for straws to come up with the IMS theory, or you are yanking our chain. Based on your first statement in this post above, I strongly believe you do not understand how automotive technologies work, so please stop trying to self-diagnose your car right now, bring your car to the London Porsche dealer http://london.porschedealer.com/ or RSP Racing http://www.rspmotorsports.com/index.html to get an expert diagnostic.

Change the brake fluid yourself if you know how. Then take the car out up to 50mph at least and slam on a few times to a full stop. That will move the master cylinder then go back and change the full system again. If that doesnt clear things then take it into the porche dealer and get their opinion.

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I meant the push bearing (at least that's what the second mechanic thinks). But since i have to take clutch out I might as well replace all the parts while I am there.

The bearing is identified as a throw out bearing. Not sure this is in every case but when they go bad they creat a 'whining' noise and its quit loud. If the previous shop took your car joy riding they could have glazed over the clutch. How many miles are on the clutch in the car now?

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Not sure I bought the car last year with no service history, I put about 5k on it. The diagnosis was made based on the fact that the pedal vibrates when you press it (I guess at engagement point 1-2 inch deep). After the test drive the mechanic said the clutch is fine plus the 2/3 rd gear test seemed fine. There is no noise beside the thumping when you let go off the clutch pedal really quickly. And the clutch pedeal is really soft. While the car was on the hoist we had another guy press the clutch with the engine off and apperantly there is some weird noise coming out of the clutch. I have a video of it might edit it and post it. I coudn't hear anything abnormal.

If you drove around for a day, with a slipping clutch and if the clutch wasn't toast before, it is now. The transmission will have to come out to see what exactly failed.