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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSuspension knocking revisited
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Replace easily
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All the suspension links/bits can be replaced easily using a simple jackstand, decent space in there.
Leading evidence: 'Replace easily' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check boots' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
how easy peasy is it to replace the entire tie rods without a lift?
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Suggestion
The 996 is very sensitive to suspension and alignment change, I'd suggest to try using pss9 or pss10 suspension that transforms the ride, may be a simple short spring swap do the trick as well.
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Suggestion
As long as you have the correct ITRE tool set ($55 from Amazon, IIRC), and the OTRE ball joint tool ($15 from NAPA), and the whole front end is on jack stands, then it is about a 2 hour job without air tools.
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Suggestion
The 996 is very sensitive to suspension and alignment change, I'd suggest to try using pss9 or pss10 suspension that transforms the ride, may be a simple short spring swap do the trick as well.
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I replaced my drop links and that didn't cure my knocking issue, so the next thing I may throw money at are the tie rods.
Question is, if the tie rods (inner or outer) are faulty enough to cause the knocking after warm-up, would they also cause the car to feel antsy at speed - or show any other signs while driving?
Or, would control arms more likely be the cause of a less than planted feel at speed if they are worn??
my car used to feel floaty at speed, lowering the ride height helps a lot.
Did you remember it being more planted before or you bought the car like that ?
No, I don't think it got worse in the 7k miles I have driven it. It was always never as planted as I would think. My newer BMW is like a rock on the highway, with very little power steering assist. The 996 feels like an old Ford as far as too much steering assist.
yeah that is the exact same feeling I had with my car until I lowered it with pss9 suspensions.
really the ride height they gave to the car is really nice to drive around town and not to worry about the curbs but on highway this is terribly woobly.
once my car was lowered / harder suspensions it was much much better.
the ride is very smooth on stock suspensions as well.
The 996 is very sensitive to suspension and alignment change, I'd suggest to try using pss9 or pss10 suspension that transforms the ride, may be a simple short spring swap do the trick as well.
cheaper for sure.
I really think my suspension is shot after 12 years. The car floats down the highway like an old Mustang!
I should check the sway bar bushings and mounts. If the mounts or bushings are shot, that would affect how the car handles, right?
If there is no play in the TREs, then there is no affect on handling, just noise. Mine (at 47k miles) were all very tight when removed, but in a vise with quick movement applied, they creaked and moved in distinct increments, ot smoothly. The new TRWs I put in are smooth as butta and blessedly silent, and easy peazy to remove and install with the right TRE tools. Worn ball joint on the Control arm could cause some handling issues, but not as you described. Again, they are creaky/noisy before they are a handling issue. Yours sounds like shot shocks and alignment to me.
The RoW M030 is one of the best mods you can do. Mine had about 95K with all original suspension parts. It didn't lower the car much, but it transformed the handling dramatically.
But...after new spring, struts, bushings, drop links and alignment the clunk is still there. I just ignore it now.
RoW M030 stay very comfortable, too much I'd say. great for daily driver, but for weekend I'd go for something harder.
All the suspension links/bits can be replaced easily using a simple jackstand, decent space in there.
WHAT IS ARE THE 'TREs' "?
TRE = Tie Rod Ends
Does ITRE = Inner Tie Rod Ends?
ROW M030 sounds perfect for me! Wish that $600 used set was for a 2000 MY. But then, he wouldn't be selling them.
As long as you have the correct ITRE tool set ($55 from Amazon, IIRC), and the OTRE ball joint tool ($15 from NAPA), and the whole front end is on jack stands, then it is about a 2 hour job without air tools. It will almost take as long to get the car up on jack stands and the wheels off. The hardest part is getting the SS bands off the boots. Of course you need an alignment afterwards, so mark the number of threads at each end. Easy instructions on Renntech.
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