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YOUR RESEARCHElectrical help...loosing my volts
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect battery held a charge
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The frustrating part is on paper there shouldn't be a problem; disconnected battery held a charge for the weekend, drain test is good at 0.04, and the alternator is charging the battery.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect battery held a charge' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check drop' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
OK, charger the battery disconnected the charger at 2:00 Saturday-12.20v.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Only aftermarket was installed 3 years ago- Sprint Booster.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
All are interstate batteries installed a highly respected shop.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
All was well, until a month ago when I had the battery replaced, now its dead by morning!!
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Suggestion · Original poster
First had 3 dead cells, second couldn't get any cells to register on a hydrometer, current battery is a sealed maintenance free so I can't check fluid, and they seem to be dieing at a faster rate every day.
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Suggestion
To isolate if it's a bad battery, charge it with an external charger, then measure the voltage after the charger has been removed, leave the battery UN-CONNECTED to the rest of car overnight and check the voltage again to see if there is a significant drop in the voltage value, if so then you may very weill have a new dead batteryy.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The frustrating part is on paper there shouldn't be a problem; disconnected battery held a charge for the weekend, drain test is good at 0.04, and the alternator is charging the battery.
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All was well, until a month ago when I had the battery replaced, now its dead by morning!! Battery tests OK, power drain is within range at 0.4. The drain seems to be much higher when left unlocked.
Anyone have a list of draw items locked/unlocked. Suggestions on where to start I'm lost on the one as I don't know this electrical system.
tks
Maurice asks the right questions.
A new battery can be bad from right out of the box to any time so that has to be considered. But you can't blame the battery without making sure the charging system -- alternator but wiring too -- is up to snuff.
At the risk of telling you what you already know, the battery just stores electricity to have at hand to start the engine. Once running the alternator is responsible for supplying the car's electrical power needs and this includes enough power to recharge the battery.
A battery can supply power for a while and new battery has some remarkable reserve, but once it is run down this hurts the battery in ways it can't recover from. Thus a subpar charging system can ruin even a new battery.
You have to ensure the charging system is in 100% working order and then deal with the possibility the new battery has been compromised.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Yes, alternator is good.
No, previous battery was replaced as preventative maintenance (I know, should of left it alone).
Ruling out the charging system for the moment anyways. Had the battery on charge yesterday, off the charger last night 12.6v, by morning was 11.4v this evening 5.4v. (trunk open, car locked)
I would of thought a drain that high would be obvious like headlights , but a drain test was only 0.04amps.
Any ideas on what to check next??? any fuses I can pull to eliminate draw items???
I am honored by this complement from you.
I think the OP has a bad battery "unable to hold a charge",bring it back to the seller and describe this problem.They should replace it
To isolate if it's a bad battery, charge it with an external charger, then measure the voltage after the charger has been removed, leave the battery UN-CONNECTED to the rest of car overnight and check the voltage again to see if there is a significant drop in the voltage value, if so then you may very weill have a new dead batteryy.
Thanks all...will charge then disconnect the battery over night to check for a drop. I'm hoping its the battery, but suspect there's more to it.
This is the 3rd new battery since this problem started 2 months back. First had 3 dead cells, second couldn't get any cells to register on a hydrometer, current battery is a sealed maintenance free so I can't check fluid, and they seem to be dieing at a faster rate every day. All are interstate batteries installed a highly respected shop.
OK, charger the battery disconnected the charger at 2:00 Saturday-12.20v. 5:30 Sat-12.32v, Mon morn 12.21v(I think)
Put the meter on Mon and get 0.04 draw.No sparks with the meter but when I put the neg cable to the battery there are definite sparks!?!
Don't know if this is related, there is a rapid clicking coming from what looks like the alarm horn on the drivers side of the battery. Could the alarm be causing a major draw on the battery?
Apologies... I've been banging my head against the wall so much I've be come fixated on the drain and forgot about the other batteries. Think part of the reason was because they both tested bad although looking back at it maybe the car damaged them.
It makes it hard to help when you don't have the whole story.
Did you add any aftermarket stuff before? like when the first battery went.
If the first battery went was it because it was old? Or was the drain killing it each night?
What changed since then?
Did the alarm work before or did it beep the horn when you locked it?
Here's a little recap For what I may have missed in previous posts...
1. Only aftermarket was installed 3 years ago- Sprint Booster. no other changes beyond the new battery.
2. No issues with the old battery (would start after weeks of sitting) Battery was replaced strictly as a pro-active measure.
3. since the battery swap I'm having this high drain issue.
4. alarm was good prior, wold only beep after two button clicks or if something open.
The frustrating part is on paper there shouldn't be a problem; disconnected battery held a charge for the weekend, drain test is good at 0.04, and the alternator is charging the battery.
I don't have a logical step to take next....If I get a chance tomorrow, may source a different battery install it engine off to check the drain and see if somehow the charging system is destroying batteries....
Aftermarket anything is always suspect. Alarms especially. Not so common here but in the UK aftermarket alarms are quite common and for every 10 cars with one installed it seems 9 of them have problems at some point.
There may be some alarm related wiring that is intended to detect an attempt to tamper with the battery to get around the alarm.
If I'm right you may have damaged this or connected it incorrectly.
You need to get the wiring diagram of this system out of your files and review the connections and if there is a trouble shooting guide run through it to see if it leads you to a solution.
Also, if the new battery has been discharged it may have suffered damage to the point the battery is no longer viable. Thus you may not be able to rely upon this battery. My intent is to make you aware even if you do find and fix the problem a bad battery may send you on a wild goose chase.
Sincerely,
Macster.
What does the voltmeter on the left side of the dash read when you first start the car and the motor is running? It should say 13.5-14V if not then the alternator is suspect.
It will drop to 12+V after it makes up the drain(to the battery) of starting the car.
It should always be above 12V when running.
Have you used a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery with the motor running? Also, with the motor off, take off the neg cable and put the voltmeter leads between the neg cable and neg post on the battery. Amperage should be minimal.
Macster: The alarm is factory, the only mod is the Sprint booster that I now have off to eliminate, even though it has been operating correctly.
I will try another battery, engine off only to try eliminate the charging system damaging batteries and for drain.
C4CRNA: Gage is just below the 14v on start then settles 12-13v range. charging system has been tested a few times (dash is fairly accurate) even with lights, AC, seat heat, etc still charging.
San Rensho: Two different indies and myself, checks within limits. Cable off getting 0.04ma, also within limits.
I'm not understanding your statement above, if you are trying to say 0.04 Amp of current draw, then I must ask how are you measuring this reading? Current reading is typically done with the multimeter set in the current/amp mode and connect the meter in SERIES between the load and the battery by using the current/ammeter connection on the multimeter, is this how you had connected the multimeter?
Again this is a moot point unless you have connected the meter properly.
I would disconnect this alarm horn which sounds like an aftermarket one, is there an aftermarket alarm system as well? If so I'd suggest disconnect that as well to isolate the problems you are encountering.
EDIT:
Now I've just read alarm is factory and others have measured current draw.
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