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YOUR RESEARCHWinter Tire change over equipment list for garage
Leading reported evidence
Use "breaker-bar"
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1
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Read evidence and context
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I use a "breaker-bar" to losen the bolts, then low-powered, cordless, electric impact wrench to spin them off.
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Suggestion
Honestly, the thing that takes me the longest is cleaning the wheels that are removed and cleaning the brake calipers while I've got the wheel off the car.
Leading evidence: 'Use "breaker-bar"' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean wheels' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use a 19mm socket with a medium sized extension.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I don't have an impact gun, so I use a large socket torque wrench.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Honestly, the thing that takes me the longest is cleaning the wheels that are removed and cleaning the brake calipers while I've got the wheel off the car.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Clean wheels
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Honestly, the thing that takes me the longest is cleaning the wheels that are removed and cleaning the brake calipers while I've got the wheel off the car.
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T122219Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi guys,
I'm going to equip my garage for easy winter tire/wheel combo changeovers.
What equipment do you recommend to make this a fast, painless process?
Thanks
I do mine with a hydraulic floor jack. I do one wheel at a time, and I don't use jack stands. I don't have an impact gun, so I use a large socket torque wrench. It's a pretty quick and painless process. Honestly, the thing that takes me the longest is cleaning the wheels that are removed and cleaning the brake calipers while I've got the wheel off the car. I can't stand the thought of putting dirty wheels and tires back up on the rack.
thanks guys. will a hydraulic jack with minimum 4in height do the job?
Also Dennis what wrench do you use? I was going to go electric socket wrench finishing with a torque wrench...
I bought a $99 battery powered impact wrench from sears for removing wheels and it works great. I also use a low profile aluminum jack and do one wheel at a time for my winter change over, which is quickly approaching.
I jack the car up from the jack point in front of the rear wheel - and that will lift the whole side of the car up. I can then change front and rear tires before moving to the other side.
Definitely use a torque wrench to put them on - 96 ft. lbs.
96 ft.-lbs. is correct. I use a 19mm socket with a medium sized extension. I'll take a look and see which torque wrench I'm using. Also - thread the alignment stud into the first lug hole as soon as you remove the lug bolt. It make it much easier to put the new wheel on and align it quickly.
Dennis is the man! I used to do this change-over, and he nailed all the right tips.
What I didn't realize is the tool kit that comes in the fronk has a wheel hangar alignment bolt in it. I realized this AFTER I bought another one.
I do the "lift-one-side" trick to swap two wheels with one "lift." ...fast and easy.
Use wheel chocks on the "ground-side" front and rear for a little extra safety.
I grabbed an inexpensive low-clearance floor jack and a hockey puck centered on the lifting point.
I use a "breaker-bar" to losen the bolts, then low-powered, cordless, electric impact wrench to spin them off. I place each bolt with my fingers to make sure there is no cross-threading before lightly hitting them with the impact wrench, then finally tighten them all down with a torque wrench.
...same as swap for track wheels several times in the summer.
I use a rotary 2 post lift, 2135TiMax Ingersol Rand 1/2" air impact, a deep 19mm thin wall teflon coated socket to prevent wheel scratching (can just wrap a socket in electrical tape) and my trusty snap on torque wrench.
Now that I have a shop, and lift I dont think I could go back to my garage working on the ground
Not using a jack stand is a really good way to hurt yourself. Always and I do me ALWAYS use a jackstand. Hydraulic jacks are extremly unpredictable. A seal blows inside the jack and it will drop the car in an instant. People die from this all the time. Be safe.
Having to lift a car that is sitting on a brake rotor also sucks ***** It has happened to me a few times. Most would think I would have learnt after the first time ha ha
Although not an excuse to buy tools and kinda boring:
I use the tools and jack that came with the car.
It takes a little bit longer but, if you every get a flat you know how to take care of it pretty quick.
Torque stick, cordless impact gun (convenient at autocross), 12 volt air compressor (for inflating tires), mechanics gloves, eye protection, ear plugs, paper towels, tire covers (for storage).
Torque wrench for final torque setting.
Breaker bar.
Trouble light. I always take a good look around the suspension and brakes when I'm changing tires. A little light helps.
Also a definite must have is a decent little stereo in the man cave...gotta have good tunes that sound good! No am radio on the clock radio is allowed! having good music playing makes wrenching that much better.
Barn
Took your advice and bought the highly rated sears impact wrench and bought a low profile 3 ton jack
I also bought a torque extension for the impact gun that goes to 90 and I will tighten the remaining 6 with torque wrench
Finally I bought an air compressor with 25 ft hose
I have a related question. When installing the front wheels how do you guys stop the wheel from turning when torquing the wheel bolts?
I ask because twice I have found that my front wheel bolts have loosened after a few miles of driving. This is after properly torquing them. Note that this is on my Speed3 and not the Spyder so I'm wondering if its the wheel/hat configuration that is causing this to happen.
Some call these too much, but if you're going to spend any significant time with your car in the air they're pretty nice.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ight=jackpoint
Easiest way would be to drop you car on the ground. when its sitting on the ground, you can torque the wheels without the car moving. The biggest reason I have seen for lug nuts backing off is that the rim is not seated properly against the hub, especially with aftermarket non hub centric wheels. Good practice I find is to give the wheel a quick spin after using the impact to put the lugnuts on. make sure that the whole rim is sitting flush against the hub all the way around before torquing.
2 lowpro floor jacks. Jack up the rear and I place the 2nd jack on the front(backup if the rear jack fails). I believe it's 2.75 inches so unless you're sitting on the floor, it's perfect. 4 pumps and cars lifted.
$59 each. Electric impact gun to remove lug bolt. $49. Tq wrench. $9.99. All from harbor freight.
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