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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBudget Bose Replacement Double Din Update
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect rear side speakers all together
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I also just disconnected the rear side speakers all together.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect rear side speakers all together' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect rear side speakers all together' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Replaced the head unit with a Pioneer AVH1400DVD and the amp with an Alpine MRX-F65 4 channel.
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Suggestion
1) If i replace the CDR -23 head unit - i can use the Bose speakers if i bypass the amp?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'd love to replace all of the speakers at some point but I'm happy for now.
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Suggestion
2)To by pass the amp - i must run copper from head to the amp?
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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So I mentioned in another thread that I finally broke down and decided to rid myself of the CDR-23 w/MOST. I could not stand using FM transmitters anymore and also just couldn't convince myself that the Dension was worth it.
I'd like to save as much of my car money as I can for the track and track related consumables so I went the budget route.
Replaced the head unit with a Pioneer AVH1400DVD and the amp with an Alpine MRX-F65 4 channel.
I have the front mids and dash speakers running on the amp channels 1 and 2 and the subs bridged on the amp's channel 3 and 4. The rear mids are currently being powered by the head unit.
Once I get some crossovers and adjust the levels a bit more I think it'll sound at least as good if not slightly better than the factory setup. I also plan to re-wire the subs so they are 2 ohm instead of 1.
The best part is not only can I control my iphone from the stereo, I can control Pandora too!! That is practically all I listen to and it is awesome to have full control from the head unit.
At ~$700 total (including the euro motorspeed kit) I spent more than I wanted to but I am happy with it and glad I didn't spend any more than that.
Still need to find the best mounting spot for the amp in the C4S frunk but I'll update with pics once completed.
No idea, the Euro Motorspeed kit makes it all pretty easy. The Pioneer has plenty of holes in the sides so you have a lot of options for how deep you want it to set. I'm guessing most other head units do as well.
Great information - I am planning a similar adventure. I live where SAT Radio is a must. Decided against the FM IN route but the MOST BOSE information is very confusing. I hear about MOST and BOSE and Fiber Optics. Just when i think i have it - I'm not sure again.
Can you clarify?
1) If i replace the CDR -23 head unit - i can use the Bose speakers if i bypass the amp?
2)To by pass the amp - i must run copper from head to the amp?
The Euro motor speed 2 DIN kit is good?
You have to be careful when bypassing the amp that the head unit is capable of pushing the 2ohm speakers (1 ohm for the subs). That is why I went with a new amp. Either way you will need to either run new speaker wire to the speakers or run wire from the head unit to where the factory amp is in the trunk.
Just an update on my system...
I ended up getting some 2ohm crossovers for the front door/dash speakers. They worked out great and the system sounds much better now. I also just disconnected the rear side speakers all together. They just sounded like **** no matter how I adjusted them. Now I am running with the front door, front dash, and SUBS and it sounds much better. I'd love to replace all of the speakers at some point but I'm happy for now.
Finally I rewired the subs in series so that they would be 2 ohm instead of 1. It sounds much better and is safer for my new AMP.
Still working on the mounting situation in the frunk though. It isn't an easy thing to figure out in a C4S/TT.
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